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THE CRUISE 




STEAM YACHT NORTH STAR; 



A NARRATIVE OF THE 



Crciioiait af Ulr. f aiikiiilt'B f art| 



ENGLAND, RUSSIA, DENMARK, FRANCE, SPAIN, ITALY, MALTA, 
TURKEY, MADEIRA. ETC. 




BY th: 



KEY. JOHN OVERTON CHOULES. D. D.. 

AUTHOR OK TOK " HISTORY OF MISSION'S." " YOCNG AMERICANS ABROAD," ETC. 



BOSTON: 

GOULt) ANJJ LINCOLN 

NEW YORK: 

EVANS AND DICKERSON. 

1854. 



I> 



D^ 



1^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by 

GOULD & LINCOLN, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts 



Stereotyped by 

eOBART & ROBBINS, 

NEW ENGLAND TYPE -» ND STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY, 

BOSTON. 

Printed by Geo. C. Rand, No. 3 Cornhill. 



So 

GEORGE PEABODY, ESQ., 

THE 

HONORED AND PATKIOTIC REPRESENTATIVE OF AMERICAN PRINCIPLES 

IN LONDON, 

MADE BT 
AN AMERICAN MERCHANT, 

BY HIS OBLIGED FRIEND, 

J. O. CHOULES. 



4d,^iikdi 




In 1. S i^in^'T.ioT, 



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C(0)]IimE]LnLTS TAK3D)]E]raBIIL.T 



PREFACE 



I HAD the opportunity afforded me, by an indulgent con- 
gregation, to spend the summer of 1851 in Europe ; and, on 
my return, I published a small volume (on which I was 
aided by three young friends and pupils, who were the com- 
panions of my tour), entitled " Young Americans Abroad, 
or Vacation in Europe." This had a favorable reception 
by the public, and has passed into a fourth edition and 
been reprinted in London. I had no idea that I should 
again revisit the Old World ; or, at least, supposed that 
many years would elapse ere such a gratification could be 
enjoyed. 

Last February my valued friend, Mr. Vanderbilt, in- 
formed me that he proposed in May to take his family on a 
voyage to the principal seaports of Europe, in a steam 
yacht then building for that purpose ; and he most kindly 
1* 



VI PREFACE. 

invited me to be his guest. I saw no way by whicli I 
could accept his generous proposition consistently with the 
duties which I owed to my church and congregation ; but, 
with a spirit of liberality and affection which I can never 
forget, they urged my acceptance of so fine an occasion to 
visit portions of the world rarely accessible to American 
tourists J and I concluded to joui the party. My friends 
generally suggested that the excursion would afford suf- 
ficient interest to warrant a record. My excellent pub- 
lishers, Messrs. Gould and Lincoln, at once claimed a volume ; 
and, finding that my fellow- voyagers wished for a memorial 
of our four happy months spent in the North Star, I have 
consented to chronicle the movements of the most agreeable 
association of my life. I know that books of Travels have 
multiplied of late with fearful rapidity ; but still the vast 
amount of readers in our country creates a steady demand 
for such publications. 

A book of travels that contains reliable and interestino; 
information has a good tendency. I remember with pleas- 
ure my own boyish gratification in reading Mavor's fine 
collection of voyages and travels ; that set of books gave a 
turn to my future life, and a large share of my happiness 



P HE F A C E . Vn 

may be traced back to the influences produced on my mind 
by the perusal of such works. It is a great thing to excite 
the intellect of a lad in a right direction. When I was 
about nine years of age, I used to pass many delicious 
hours in a cobbler's stall, not eight feet square, listening to 
his stories about the American revolutionary war, and the 
wars of the English and French in Canada. I made my 
earliest acquaintance with Lake George, Ticonderoga and 
Niagara Falls, by the side of the old man's lapstone, whilst 
he told me how fields were won; and Cobbler Hunt's 
stories about Indians and lakes, beavers and buffaloes, 
swans and flamingoes, had much to do with creating a desire 
to know more of the scenes of his exploits and adventures. 
This world is full of beauty, and it teems with wonders ; 
and I never see a fresh portion of God's earth, but I feel 
some respect for the old gentleman's opinion, who, on going 
from Maine to Albany for the first time that he had left 
his native state, declared, on his return, that the world was 
more extensive than he had supposed. There is much to 
see wherever we turn, if our eyes are opened. All men 
have their own peculiar taste ; and in a party of three or 
four visiting a foreign city, each member of it will see 
things in a different point of light. I believe that few 



VIII PREFACE. 

persons have enjoyed so fine an opportunity to visit the 
coast of Europe as we had who formed the North Star 
party ; and I hope that a plain narrative of the excursion, 
which has excited so much interest at home and abroad, 
may prove useful and entertaining. Those of our country- 
men who were in Europe this summer are well aware that 
the presence of the steam yacht in foreign ports was to 
them the occasion of justifiable pride ; while to foreigners 
she was the fruitful theme of admiration and reflection. 

John Overton Choules. 

Newport, R. L, Jan. 9, 1854. 



€antn\is. 



CHAPTER I. 

ORIGIN OP THE YACHT VOYAGE — VARIOUS IDEAS AS TO ITS OBJECT — MR. 

VANDERBILT'S EXACT ARRANGEMENT DESCRIPTION OF NORTH STAR 

HER INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS FURNITURE, ETC. COMMANDER ASA 

ELDRIDGE, ESQ. — OFFICERS AND CREW, 17 

CHAPTER II. 

READY TO SAIL — ALL ON BOARD 19 MAY — YACHT RUNS ON A REEF — 

NAVY -YARD AND DRY DOCK REPAIRS SOON MADE DEPARTURE 20 

MAY PILOT LEFT YACHT MUSTER-ROLL OP THE PARTY FAMILY 

WORSHIP EMOTIONS OP VOYAGERS SAFETY, NOT SPEED, THE RULE 

STRIKE OP FIREMEN — GREEN HANDS DIVINE SERVICE LAND-BIRD 

CONCERTS GREAT RUN OP THREE HUNDRED AND FORTY-FOUR MILES 

— COMFORT AND LUXURY OF VOYAGE — MR. VANDERBILT'S COURTESY — 
PILOT CHANNEL, 25 

CHAPTER III. 

SOUTHAMPTON SCENERY — HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS — STEAM PACKET 

COMPANIES HIGH-STREET AMERICAN VICE-CONSUL, MR. COX DOCKS 

STEAMERS REV. THOMAS ADKINS ARRIVE IN LONDON QUEEN 'S 

DRAWING-ROOM — OBJECTS OF CURIOSITY, ETC. — HYDE PARK — KEN- 
SINGTON GARDENS regent's PARK VISITS TO WESTMINSTER AND OTH- 
ER PUBLIC PLACES WINDSOR HAMPTON COURT BRISTOL CLIi'TON 

AND VICINAGE TINTERN HENBURY AND COTTAGES LOCAL SCENERY 

BERKELEY CASTLE GLOUCESTER CHELTENHAM ENGLISH COUNTRl 

SCENERY, . . . .* 33 



CONTENTS, 



CHAPTER IV. 

HON. AND KEV. BAPTIST NOEL — MB. GEOKGE PEABODY — OPERA — DINNER 

AT RICHMOND HON. STEPHEN A. DOUGLAS RECEPTION-NIGHT AT 

HON. J. B. INGERSOLL'S, THE AMERICAN MINISTER THE LORD MAY- 
OR'S SOIREE — MR. DEPUTY BENOCH — THOMAS PRICE, LL.D. — TOOVEY'S 

BOOKSTORE — DEPUTATION PROM SOUTHAMPTON TONE OP ENGLISH 

FEELING TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER 

STREET AMUSEMENTS — SCENE IN AN OMNIBUS, 46 



CHAPTER V. 

INTEREST EXCITED BY ARRIVAL OF THE NORTH STAR — LONDON DAILY 

NEWS DULWICH GALLERY MR. THOMAS COLLEY GRATTAN A QUICK 

TRIP TO LEIPSIC OUR RETURN TO SOUTHAMPTOJI VISIT TO NETLEY 

ABBEY HISTORICAL NOTICE SCENERY REV. DR. KREBBS EXCUR- 
SIONS — REV. ALEXANDER MACLAREN — SERVICES OP THE SABBATH, 67 

CHAPTER VI. 

JUNE 13, THE BANQUET AT SOUTHAMPTON — CARD OF INVITATION — AP- 
PEARANCE OF TOWN VICTORIA ROOMS MAYOR DINNER ACCOUNT 

OF PROCEEDINGS AND SPEECHES IN THE HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT 

EXCURSION OF THE NORTH STAR, WITH THE MAYOR AKft) INVITED 

GUESTS, ROUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT DINNER ON BOARD ACCOUNT 

TAKEN FROM THE HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT, 69 



CHAPTER VII. 

VOYAGE — COAST OP NORWAY — KBONBORG CASTLE AND ELSINORE — SHIPS 

IN THE SOUND COPENHAGEN BOBNHOLM AND OLAND ISLANDS DR. 

LINSLY MIRAGE — DAGO ISLAND STEAMER NEPTUNE CRONSTADT 

FORTIFICATIONS DOCKS SHIPPING PUBLIC BUILDINGS CHOLERA 

PETERHOFP WOODS VAUXHALL HOTEL MARLY AND MONTPLAISIB 

— PETER THE GREAT HIS HOUSE — FURNITURE COTTAGE OF CATHE- 
RINE A BIDE THROUGH THE GROUNDS WATER-WORKS, ETC. PETER- 

HOFF IMPERIAL PALACE IMPERIAL YACHT, AND GRAND DUKE CONSTAN- 

TINE — ADMIRAL GLASSENOFF — MR. MULLEB — MINIATURE PALACE — 
COSSACKS, 108 



CONTENTS. Xi 



CHAPTER VIII. 

SMALL STEAMER — DRESS OP OFFICERS — VIEW OP ST. PETERSBURQ — Ql 

PROCESSION HOTELS POLITENESS -^ MR. ROPES, U. S. CONSUL SUM- 
MER ISLANDS PETER THE GREAT'S FIRST HOUSE — THE CITY ADMI- 
RALTY — STATUE OP PETER NEFFSKY PERSPECTIVE SERFS VIEW OP 

CITY BY MOONLIGHT WINTER PALACE AND ITS DEPARTMENTS — RE- 
GALIA THE HERMITAGE PAINTINGS OP DIFFERENT SCHOOLS THE 

LOGGiE — Peter's museum — precious stones — horologe — wreaths 

AND laurels prom CHERSONESUS MARBLE PALACE ALEXANDER PIL- 
LAR MR. EVANS MONASTERY OP ALEXANDER NEFFSKY ENGLISH 

CHURCH — KESAU CATHEDRAL — ITS INTERIOR AND SERVICE — ISAAC 
CHURCH, 121 



CHAPTER IX. 

MAJOR THOMPSON BROWN — DROSKYS WEDDING — GOSTINNOI DVOR 

STREETS MILITARY FAREWELL TO ST. PETERSBURG RETURN TO 

THE YACHT — VISITORS — REGATTA — CRONSTADT — MR. WILKINS — 
DANGEROUS POSITION — VISIT PROM GRAND DUCHESS OP OLDENBURGH 
AND FAMILY — STEAMBOAT PARTY AND IMPERIAL BAND — THE EMPEROR 
QUEEN DOWAGER OP HOLLAND — NARROW ESCAPE, 141 

.CHAPTER X. 

VOYAGE — COPENHAGEN — THORWALDSEN'S MUSEUM — FRUEKIRKE — THOR- 
WALDSEN'8 CHRIST AND HIS APOSTLES — THE SCULPTOR — ROSENBERGH 
PALACE — ITS RICH COLLECTIONS OP ART — COINS AND MEDALS — PARK 
— STATUARY — COUNTRY — EXCHANGE — GALLERIES — AMALIENBORQ 
PLADS — SONG OP THE WATCHMAN, 149 



CHAPTER XI. 

OFF FOR HAVRE — SCENERY OP THE SOUND ISLE OP HUEN — TYCHO BRAHE 

— NORWAY AND SWEDEN — GODWIN SANDS LIGHT-SHIP — DOVER AND 
WALMER CASTLES — HAVRE — STEADIER FRANKLIN — MR. VE3EY, U. 8. 

CONSUL THE TOWN — HISTORICAL INCIDENTS — INGOUVILLB — LEAVE 

lOR PARIS — ROUEN, POISSY, ETC., 158 



XII CONTENTS, 



CHAPTER XII. 

HOTELS — HON. S. G. GOODRICn — AMERICAN CLERaY IN EUROPE — REVIEW 

REV. ROBERT LOVETT AND HIS CHAPEL CONFERENCE OF AMERICANS 

METHODIST CHAPEL LOUVRE JARDIN DES PLANTES PALAIS DB 

JUSTICE FLOWER-MARKET HOTEL DE CLUGNY ENGLISH FRIENDS 

VERSAILLES GARDEN OF THE TUILLERIES AND CHAMPS-EL YS^ES PONT 

NEUP AND OLD PARTS OP PARIS — HOTEL DE VILLE — CHURCHES — ROYAL 
LIBRARY — GOBELINS — ST. DENIS NEUILLY — CHAPELLE ST. FERDI- 
NAND — CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE — FONTAINEBLEAU, 165 



CHAPTER XIII. 

KEV. J. R. PEAKE — NAPOLEON'S TOMB IN THE HOTEL DES INVALIDES 

LOUIS PHILIPPE — DESCRIPTION OP THE CRYPT GALLERY, ETC. 

MOSAICS — CARYATIDES SARCOPHAGUS* — RELIQUARY — ALTAR AND 

BALDAQUIN — GUIDE — CLOIATE OF PARIS — OVERTURES MADE TO MR. 
VANDERBILT — WOODMAN AND FORR — RAILROAD TO ROUEN — HIS- 
TORIC NOTICE POPULATION OP ROUEN CATHEDRAL INTERIOR 

MONUMENTS RICHARD GCEUR DE LION, ETC. ABBEY OP ST. OUEN 

PALACE OF JUSTICE — JOAN OF ARC — CORNEILLE — ENGLISH CHURCH 

VISITORS, 186 



CHAPTER XIV. 

VOYAGE RESUMED — BAY OP BISCAY — VIGO BAY — LOSS OP ROBERT 
OGDEN FLINT — ROCK OP LISBON — CAPE ST. VINCENT — TRAFALGAR 

TARIFA — COAST OP AFRICA — ROCK OP GIBRALTAR — MALAGA 

QUARANTINE — WATERING — VISITORS FROM SHORE — FUNERAL SERMON 

CATHEDRAL BEGGARS IN THE STREETS A PRETTY BOY AND A 

STRONG RESEMBLANCE — JOSE CUBERO — PRIEST WITH BELL AND BOX 

— BULL RING — REV. CHARLES BRERETON — BISHOP OP BARCELONA 

CALECHES AND DRIVERS — RIDE TO MR. DELIUS' VILLA AND VINE- 
YARDS — ALAMEDA — MULETEERS — MR. CONSUL SMITH — HARBOR OP 
MALAGA, 199 



CONTENTS. Xm 

CHAPTER XV. 

OFF FOR LEQHORN CARTHAOENA IVICA MAJORCA MINORCA COR- 
SICA SCENERY GORGONA LEGHORN HOTEL ST. MARCO FREE 

PORT OPERA — SCOTCH FREE CHURCH — SERVICE ON SABBATH — STREETS 

ADMIRABLY PAVED EVENING SERVICE THE PARSONAGE-HOUSE GOS- 
PEL IN ITALY, 211 

CHAPTER XVI. 

ARRIVE AT FLORENCE HOTEL D'ITALIE RIDE CITY AND STREETS, 

ETC. PITTI PALACE PICTURES CANOVA'S VENUS DUKE'S APART- 
MENTS MUSEUM POWERS AND HART POWERS' STUDIO AND HI3 

WORK hart's STUDIO BUSTS OF AMERICANS STATUE OP HENRY 

CLAY UFFIZII GALLERY STATUARY TRIBUNE VENUS DE MEDICI 

KNIFE-GRINDER, ETC. TITIAN'S VENUSES RAPHAEL'S PICTURES, ETC. 

NIOBE RUBENS POWELL'S DE SOTO, ETC. CATHEDRAL CAMPANILE 

BAPTISTERY SANTO CROCE — CHAPEL OF THE MEDICI ST. LORENZO 

SACRISTY MICHAEL ANGELO'S DAY AND NIGHT PALAZZO VECCHIO 

DUCAL PIAZZA STATUARY, 218 

CHAPTER XVII. 

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA — PAINTINGS — SPEZIERIA — RESIDENCE OF MICHAEL 

ANGELO CHURCH OP THE ANNUNCIATION THE CASCINE SCENERY 

MOUNTAINS THE BRIDGES FRIENDS IN FLORENCE OLIVER CROM- 
WELL'S PORTRAIT IMPRESSIONS OF FLORENCE LEAVE FOR PISA 

THE CITY LEANING TOWER CATHEDRAL CAMPO SANTO THE BAP- 
TISTERY SANTA MARIA DELLA SPINA THE CAMELS — LEGHORN GOV- 
ERNMENT ALARMED AT OUR YACHT VISITORS, ETC., 233 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

LEAVE LEGHORN FOR CIVITA VECCHIA — HARBOR — DIFFICULTIES ON OUR 

WAY DISAPPOINTMENT VOYAGE RESUMED — SEE ST. PETER'S AFAR 

OFF ISCHIA PROCEDA BAIA, ETC. BRIDGE OP CALIGULA NA- 
PLES THE BAY RENEWED DISAPPOINTMENT SWIMMERS LADY MOR- 
GAN VESUVIUS, ETC. CAPRI AND SUNSET STROMBOLI AND ^TNA 

CAPE FARO, OR PELORUS SCYLLA EARTHQUAKE OF 1783 — MESSINA 

— SCENERY OF THE STRAITS — RHEGIUM — MOUNT ^TNA — SYRACUSE 
CAPE PASSARO — MALTA, 244 

. 2 



XIV CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

HARBOR — ARABS — ALLOWED TO LAND — VISIT FROM MR. CONSUL WIN- 
THROP DIVERS HISTORICAL NOTICE VALETTA TILE RACES — MAL- 
TESE BOATS INVITATION FROM THE GOVERNOR TO TAKE DINNER 

INVITATIONS FROM THE OFFICERS OF THE GARRISON VISIT TO SIR 

WILLIAM REID GOVERNOR'S PALACE MR. WINTHROP'S RESIDENCE 

MSS. OF ITALIAN OPERAS CAPTAIN THOMAS GRAVES, R.N. CITTA 

VECCHIA SHOPS THE GOVERNOR AND SUITE VISIT THE YACHT ST. 

JOHN'S CHURCH WALLS OF THE CITADEL COUNTRY PEOPLE COS- 
TUME FORTS ANGELO, RICASOLI, MANOEL, TIGN^ AND ST. ELMO 

TURKISH SIEGE IN 1565 DEPART FOR CONSTANTINOPLE, 256 



CHAPTER XX. 

MOBEA CERIGO CAPE COLONNA TENEDOS — PLAINS OF TROY ENGLISH 

AlfD FRENCH FLEETS SIGJ3UM HELLESPONT ■ — DARDANELLES CAS- 
TLES OF EUROPE AND ASIA PROPONTIS, OR SEA OF MARMORA FIRST 

VIEW OF STAMBOUL SCENERY ANCHORAGE OFF PERA MR. BROWN 

AND OTHER VISITORS — VISIT TO PERA, GALATA AND TOPHANA SUL- 
TAN 'S NEW PALACE GULLS — SULTAN 'S FIRMAN SERAGLIO ATMEI- 

DAN, OR HIPPODROME SUBLIME PORTE LIBRARY ANCIENT ARMOR 

MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA — HISTORICAL NOTICE, ETC., 275 



CHAPTER XXI. 

MOSQUE OF ACHMET — MUZZEIN'S CALL — COSTUMES OF THE JANISSARIES 
REV. MR. BENJAMIN TOMB OF SULTAN MAHMOUD BAZAARS SHOP- 
PING VISIT TO THE ENGLISH YACHT SYLPHIDE — TURKISH VISITORS 

AMERICAN MISSIONARIES EXCURSION TO SCUTARI HOWLING DER- 
VISHES CEMETERY WEDDING BULGURLU SCENERY CHALCEDON 

— A KIOSK HOUSE IN WHICH THE LATE SULTAN DIED SOLDIERS 

COMING IN FROBI ASIA — DARK RIDE — SAIL TO BEBEK • — AFFECTING 

INCIDENT VILLAGE OF BEBEK MISSION PREMISES EDUCATION OF 

BOYS IN MECHANICAL ARTS PERSECUTION — MR. HAMLIN ARMENIAN 

PRIEST THE FAMILY CIRCLE "LIGHT ON THE DARK RIVER" MISS 

LOVELL MR. MINASIAN, 289 



CONTENTS. 3CV 

CHAPTER XXII. 

SULTAN GOma TO MOSQUE — CAIQUES — A STEAMBOAT CHARTERED — EX- 
CURSION UP THE BOSPHORUS — EUROPEAN BANK TURKISH AND EaYP- 

TIAN FLEET SYMPLEGADES BLACK SEA ASIATIC COAST LAND AT 

KANDALI BETURN TO YACHT DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE 

VOYAGE TO GIBRALTAR ARRIVAL AT THE ROCK APPEARANCE OF 

ROCK AND TOWN THE METHODIST CHAPEL REV. W. H. BIDWELL 

STREETS AND MARKETS SHOPS AND GOODS EXCURSION TO THE ROCK 

ENGLISH OFFICERS ST. GEORGE'S HALL ST. MICHAEL'S CAVE 

MONKEYS DINNER AT MR. SPRAGUE'S HISTORICAL NOTICES SMUG- 
GLERS SHOT — PROFFERED HOSPITALITIES EXCURSION TO THE CORK 

WOODS "CHARLEY," TUB MOORISH MERCHANT DINNER WITH THE 

FORTY-FOURTH REGIMENT VISITORS TO THE YACHT, 304 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

LEAVE GIBRALTAR — TANGIER — SAIL FOR MADEIRA — PORTO SANTO — MA- 
DEIRA FUNCHAL, AND ITS ASPECT LANDING IN THE SURF HISTORIC 

NOTICE LEGEND OF JIACHIM OBSERVATIONS ON FUNCHAL CATHOLIC 

INTOLERANCE MANNERS OF PEOPLE EXCURSION TO THE CHURCH OP 

OUR LADY OF THE MOUNT SCENERY A MIRACLE MR. GEORGE 

BROWN BEGGARS ARTICLES FOR SALE YATES' HOTEL HIS STUDY 

CLIMATE SIR JAMES CLARK AND LEIGH HUNT POPULATION 

BOARDING-HOUSES MODES OF TRAVEL SHOPS THE BOY-BEGGARS 

BLAST OP THE VINEYARDS THE VINE WINES OF THE ISLAND FRUITS 

AJID VEGETABLES — TREES AND FLOWERS BIRDS FISH DEPARTURE, 

325 
CHAPTER XXIV. 

LEAVE FUNCHAL APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND SKIRT THE SHORE 

ROUGH WEATHER LIVE STOCK A WRECK DISCOVERED — FLYING-FISH 

SANDY HOOK SALUTATIONS ON ARRIVAL SUMMARY OF THE VOYAGE 

OUR OBLIGATIONS TO MR. AND MRS. VANDERBILT CAPTAIN EL- 

DRIDGB AND HIS OFFICERS — THE VOYAGE A SOURCE OF PRIDE TO THE 



COUNTRY, 



346 



fnt 0f |IUistrati0its. 



LIKENESS OF CORNELIUS VANDERBILT, Frontispikcb. 

STEAM YACHT NORTH STAR, Title-page. 

LIKENESS OF CAPTAIN ASA E!i.DRIDGE, p. 22 

HI. VINCENT ROCKS, CLIFTON, 40 

HENBURY COTTAGES, 42,45 

ST. PETERSBURG, FROM THE ENGLISH QUAY, 126 

GRAND ENTRANCE TO THE CRYPT, AND VIEW OF NAPOLEON'S TOMB, 189 

MOSAICS ON PASSAGE-FLOOR LEADING TO THE TOMB, 190 

ROUEN, , 193 

LEGHORN, 212 

PALAZZO VECCHIO, FLORENCE, 230 

VALETTA, FROM SLIEMA, 258 

MALTESE COUNTRY MAN AND WOMAN, 269 

CONSTANTINOPLE, 280 

GIBRALTAR, FROM THE SPANISH SIDE 311 

FUNCHAL, FROM THE SEA, 327 



CHAPTER I. 

OEiaiN OF THE YACHT VOYAGE — VARIOUS IDEAS AS TO ITS OBJECT — MB. 

VA.NDERBILT'S EXACT ARRANGEMENT DESCRIPTION OF NORTH STAR 

KEm INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS FURNITURE, ETC. COMMANDER ASA 

ELDRIDGE, ESQ. OFFICERS AND CREW. 

Early in the spring of the present year, the attention of the 
country was directed to an item in the daily papers of New York, 
containing information that Mr. Yanderbilt was constructing a 
steam-ship of large dimensions, which he intended as a yacht 
for the accommodation of his family and some invited friends 
in a voyage to the principal sea-ports in Europe. The announce- 
ment of this project excited a deep interest in the public mind, 
and the excursion became a prominent subject of conversation. 

Mr. Yanderbilt was known to his countrymen as a thoroughly 
practical man, whose energy and perseverance, combined with 
strong intellect and high commercial integrity, had given him 
immense wealth ; all his undertakings had been crowned with 
signal success, and his great enterprise in opening a communica- 
tion with the Pacific by the Nicaragua route had made him a 
reputation in Europe ; and a general expectation existed that he 
would carry out his plan in a manner that would redound to the 
honor of the country. Various opinions were entertained as to 
his ultimate designs. Many imagined that Mr Yanderbilt pro- 
posed to effect some great mercantile operation, — he was to sell 
his ship to this monarch, or that government, — or, he was to 
take contracts for the supply of war steamers ; all sorts of specu- 
lations were entertained by that generally misinformed character, 
— the public. In February I was sitting with Mr. Yanderbilt 
2* 



18 ME. vanderbilt's object. 

in his library, when he gave me the first information I ha^i 
received of his intentions, and he kindly invited me and my 
wife to accompany him to Europe in the month of May. The 
ship was then on the stocks, but he named the very day on which 
he should sail, and gave me the details of his proposed route, 
and from which few deviations were afterwards made. Mr. V. 
expressly informed me that his sole object was to gratify his 
family and afford himself an opportunity to see the coast of 
Europe, which he could do in no other way ; and he observed 
that, after more than thirty years' devotion to business, in all 
which period he had known no rest from labor, he felt that he 
had a right to a complete holiday. 

The following description of the yacht appeared in the Illus- 
trated News, published in New York, April 9, 1853, and I select 
it for my present purpose, as it is, I believe, strictly correct : 

" MR. VANDERBILT'S STEAM YACUr. 

" The latest enterprise in the way of steam vessels, with which 
Mr. Yanderbilt has had any connection, is the constniction of 
a yacht, for private purposes, to be propelled by steam. This 
vessel is called the * North Star,' and was lately launched at 
New York. She is to leave on a cruise to the east about the 
middle of May. Mr. Vanderbilt goes out in her, with some 
thirty or forty ladies and gentlemen, his friends. We believe 
he intends to land first at Southampton, then go round to London. 
From there the trip is to be extended, first up the Baltic ifi St. 
Petersburg, and then return, and go up the Mediterranean, 
calling at Gibraltar, Naples, Malta and Athens, visiting Con- 
stantinople and Alexandria. What will the wealthy noblemen of 
England — the proprietors of sailing yachts of fifty and a hundred 
tons — say to a citizen of the United States appearing in their 
waters with a steamship yacht of twenty-five hundred tons burthen; 
a vessel large enough to carry the armament of a British seventy- 



DESCRIPTION OF NORTH STAR. 19 

four ? We have shown our transatlantic cousins one sample of 
yachting, about which we do not care to boast. Dropping the 
past, we arc sure the English nobility and gentry will give the 
gallant * commodore ' a reception commensurate with his rank as 
a merchant prince, — one who goes abroad in a style not inferior 
to their own youthful sovereigns. We predict a sensation, at the 
appearance of this vessel in Europe, second to that of no arrival 
they have ever had from any quarter of the globe. 

" The North Star has been built under the immediate supervision 
of her owner, whose principal object has been to combine beauty 
of model with strength and durability ; and, although connois- 
seurs in naval architecture bespeak for her a speed equal to any 
of our sea steamers, yet it has not been so much the design of 
ier owner to produce the fastest vessel afloat, as a noble specimen 
of American mechanical skill. Her boilers and the principal 
part of her engines are on board, and she will in a few weeks 
be ready to sail for Southampton. 

" To her builder, Mr. Simonson, too much praise cannot be 
awarded for the care and skill he has displayed in the construc- 
tion of this noble ship ; which, apart from the beauty of her 
model, is probably the strongest fastened vessel of her tonnage 
afloat. She is 260 feet on the keel, 270 feet on the spar deck, 
38 breadth of beam, 13 feet from floor timber to lower deck beams, 
7 feet 8 inches between decks, 7 feet 6 inches between main and 
spar decks, making her whole depth 28 feet 6 inches. Her keel, of 
white oak, is 15 inches sided by 14 inches wide, stem and stern 
posts of the same material, with double aprons, and inner posts of 
live oak, bolted through with If copper bolts, deadwoods of white 
oak and 13 inches through, fastened with IJ- inch copper bolts, 
in the most substantial manner. The floor timbers are sided 12 
inches, and moulded 13 inches, being placed close together, and 
bolted through sideways with 1^- inch bolts. The main kelsons, 
of which there are five rows extendinsj the entire lenij-th of the 
ship, are of white oak, sided 15 inches by 32 inches deep, the 



20 DESCRIPTION OF NORTH STAR. 

first tier being fastened by two copper bolts 1^ inches in diameter, 
througb every floor timber, the upper tiers secured to the lower 
one with large iron bolts. The bed upon which the engine rests 
is composed of four rows of kelsons, 2 feet 2 inches by 5 feet 
deep, secured by iron screw bolts driven from the bottom before 
the vessel was planked. The outside planking of white oak, 3^ 
inches thick, increasing to 5 inches, is secured with copper bolts 
and locust trenails, there being 32,000 of the latter driven through 
and wedged upon both sides. There are six bilge streaks on the 
inside of the ship, covering the floor heads and futtocks 12 by 14 
inches, fastened to the timbers with iron bolts, and bolted edge- 
lays between every frame. 

"The ceiling is of six-inch yellow pine, and bolted in the same 
manner as the bilge streak, forming one substantial mass of 
timber 14 feet in depth. The lower deck clamps, on which the 
beams rest, are 7 inches thick, thoroughly fastened with iron 
bolts driven from the outside, and riveted on the inside. 

" There are 45 deck beams in the lower deck, with carlines 
between, sided 15 inches and moulded 14 inches, with lodging and 
bosom knees of white oak, and a large hanging knee on each end. 
The water ways on top of the lower deck are composed of three 
pieces, extending the whole length of the ship, thoroughly bolted, 
— making this deck sufficiently strong to stand any reasonable 
strain. The clamps to support the main deck are of yellow 
pine, 6 inches thick and 14 inches wide, of two widths. This 
deck is securely kneed, in the same manner as the lower one. 
The stanchions, which extend from the floor timbers to the lower 
deck beams, have a large bolt passing through them, and are 
continued on to the upper decks, thus connecting the deck with 
the bottom of the ship. The lower and main deck plank are 
of white pine, 3 by 5 inches ; the upper or spar deck extending 
the entire length of the ship. 

" Her machinery is from the Allaire works. She will be pro- 
pelled by two lever beam engines : cylinders, 60 inches ; length 



HER INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS. 21 

of stroke, 10 feet; diameter of wheels, 34 feet. Her boilers, of 
which she has four, are 24 feet long, 10 feet diameter, 11 i feet 
front, 11 feet high, with single return flues. 

" Her cabins and interior arrangements combine all that is 
required to insure comfort and elegance. 

" The Staten Islander of the 20th of Maj, speaking of the 
yacht, stated that ' the main saloon is splendidly fitted up with 
all that can tend to gratify the eye and minister to luxurious 
ease. The state-rooms, which lead from it on either side, are 
fitted up in the first style of the upholsterer's art. The furniture 
throughout blends in one harmonious whole ; there are none of 
those glaring contrasts which are too often met with, and ofi"end 
the eye and taste by their incongruities. This saloon is of beau- 
tiful satin-wood, with just sufficient rosewood to relieve it, the 
work of which was executed by Mr. Charles Simonson. The 
cabinet furniture and upholstery were furnished from the exten- 
sive establishment of Messrs. J. & J. W. "Weeks. The furniture 
of the main saloon is of rosewood, carved in the splendid style of 
Louis XV., covered with a new and elegant material of figured 
velvet plush, with a green ground filled with bouquets of flowers. 
It consists of two sofas, four couches, six arm-chairs. Con- 
nected with this saloon are ten state-rooms, superbly fitted up, 
each with a French armour le gles, beautifully enamelled in white, 
with a large glass door — size of plate, forty by sixty-four inches. 
The berths are furnished with elegant silk lambricans and lace 
curtains. Each room is fitted up with a difiierent color, namely, 
green and gold, crimson and gold, orange, &c. The toilet furni- 
ture matches with the hangings and fittings, by being of the 
same colors, and presents a picture of completeness not often met 
with. The saloon and state-rooms are kept at a pleasant tem- 
perature by one of Van Horn's steam heaters, which occupies 
the centre of the cabin. It is a beautiful specimen of bronze 
trellis-work, with marble top, and has richly burnished gilding. 
The tapestry carpet is one of gorgeous pattern. Forward of 



22 



saloon is a magnificent dining-saloon. This is fitted up in a style 
entirely new to sea-going vessels. The walls are covered with a 
preparation of ligneous marble, polished to a degree of mirror-like 
brightness that marble is incapable of receiving. The panels are 
of Naples granite, the style of Breschia jasper, and the surface of 
yellow Pyrenees marble. The ceiling of this room is in panels 
painted white, with scroll-work of purple, light-green and gold, 
surrounding medallion paintings of Columbus, Webster, Clay, 
Calhoun, Washington, Franklin and others, together with various 
emblematic conceptions. All the table furniture is of the most 
gorgeous description. The china is of ruby and gold finish, and 
the silver ware of the finest kind. The entire interior furnishing 
has been done with the single idea of producing the very best efi'ect 
possible, and every article shows elaborate design and workman- 
ship, which reflects much credit on American taste and skill.' 

A fine entrance saloon, leading from the deck, conducts, by an 
elegantly adorned staircase, to the main saloon. This reception 
saloon has a circular sofa capable of seating some twenty per- 
sons, and is covered with crimson plush. Over the stairway is 
a good painting of Mr. Yanderbilt's summer villa at Staten 
Island, which was placed there, without his knowledge, by the 
polite attention of his artist friend. 

The command of the steamer was given by her proprietor to 
Asa Eldridge, Esq., a gentleman who had established a high 
nautical reputation as a commander in the India, Liverpool, and 
California trade. The first ofl&cer was Mr. Cope, of Virginia ; 
the second, Mr. Petersen, a native of Sweden ; the chief engi- 
neer was Mr. Germaine, of New York ; the steward, Mr. Larner, 
formerly of the Cunard line ; the purser, Mr. John Keefe, the 
well-known caterer of good things at the cafe near the Racket 
Club, in Broadway. 

Several of the hands who shipped for the cruise were young 
men of the best families in the country, who were attracted by 
the prospect of visiting so many celebrated cities and places in a 
short summer passage. 



■->»t 'y.Jft^-^tt^rr^tt^type 



J^nr -h J i ^ui^ixfersf 



^^^^— ^^^^^L 




CHAPTER II. 

HEADY TO SAIL — ALL ON BOARD 19 MAY — YACHT RUNS ON A REEF 

NAVY-YARD AND DRY DOCK — REPAIRS SOON MADE — DEPARTURE 20 

MAY PILOT LEFT YACHT MUSTER-ROLL OP THE PARTY FAMILY 

WORSHIP EMOTIONS OP VOYAGERS SAFETY, NOT SPEED, THE RULE 

STRIKE OF FIREMEN GREEN HANDS DIVINE SERVICE LAND-BIRD 

CONCERTS GREAT RUN OF THREE HUNDRED AND FORTY-FOUR MILES 

— COMFORT AND LUXURY OP VOYAGE — MR. VANDERBILT'S COURTESY — 
PILOT — CHANNEL. 

All preliminary arrangements having been made, and the 
" North Star" having made a satisfactory trip to Sandy Hook, — 
the only trial to which she was subjected, — the party assembled 
on board for our departure, May 19th, at the wharf belonging to 
the x\llaire works, near the foot of Corlears-street. A party of 
our friends, consisting of between four and five hundred persons, 
was on board the yacht, who were to accompany us to the Hook, 
and return in the Francis Skiddy, which, as a mark of respect to 
Mr. Yanderbilt, had been loaned for the occasion by her owner, 
J. McCullough, Esq. At half past ten a. m. the wheels were in 
motion, but in three minutes after, the force of the ebb-tide oper- 
ating upon the yacht, which had no steerage-way, she struck hard 
and fast upon the reef which lies at the pier. Here we were 
placed in what an old gentleman on board termed " a located 
position." The Huguenot steamer came to our assistance, and in 
a few hours we entered the Dry Dock, at the Government Navy- 
yard, where we received all necessary aid, afforded in the kindest 
manner by Commodore Smith, the chief of the Bureau of the 
Dock and Navy-yard, and Captain Boorman, the commandant of 
the Navy-yard, It ought to be stated, that as soon as the acci- 



26 NAVY YARD AND DRY DOCK. 

dent occurred a telegrapkic message was sent to tKe Secretary of 
State and the Navy Department ; and an order was promptly 
responded that we should be received at the Dry Dock, which, 
fortunately, was unoccupied at the time. The Dry Dock is a 
most splendid work of art ; and by the force of the powerful 
steam-engine it was soon emptied, and the North Star was exposed 
to the examination of the ship-carpenters. It was found that the 
damage was very slight ; she had only lost a part of her shoe, 
and roughed her copper in a few places. Everything was made 
right in a short time, and the anxiety of the party, which had 
been considerable, lest a delay should prove inevitable, was at once 
relieved ; and, at seven minutes to eight o'clock p. m., on the 20th 
of May, we left the gates amid the cheering of our kind friends 
who lined the dock ; and, as we steamed down the river, we fired 
salutes and received them from various ships, and at the Battery, 
where a large party had gathered to give us a farewell greeting. 
As the North Star passed by Staten Island, and just opposite to the 
residence of Mr. Yanderbilt's mother, rockets were let off, and 
guns fired from the yacht. The night was fine, and the moon, 
shining in a cloudless sky, gave us a charming view of one of the 
Sweetest islands of the world. At half-past nine o'clock we were 
outside the Hook, and all in fine spirits, as the pilot, Mr. John 
Martineau, left the ship. Just before leaving, he was called into 
the cabin and received the present of a purse of gold, which was 
intended to show that no blame was attached to him by Mr. 
Vanderbilt on account of the disaster at leaving the dock on 
the previous day. The presentation was made by Mr. H. F. 
Clark. 

Perhaps this may be the proper time to record the muster-roll 
of the party, which consisted of the following persons : 

Mr. and Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, 
Mrs. James Cross, 
Miss Kate Vanderbilt, 



FAMILY WORSIIir. 27 

Master George W. Vanderbilt, 
Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Vanderbilt, 
Mr. and Mrs. D, B. Allen, 
Mr. and Mrs. George Osgood, 
Mr. and Mrs. W. K. Thorn, 
Miss Louisa Thorn, 
Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Torrance, 
Mr. and Mrs. H. F. Clark, 
Mr. and Mrs. N. B. Labau, 
Dr. and Mrs. Linsly, 
Rev. Dk. and Mrs. Ciioules, 
Mrs. Asa Eldridge. 

Soon after leaving Sandy Hook, Mr Vanderbilt requested me 
to conduct family worship on board the ship throughout the 
voyage, and to appoint such an hour as I thought most suitable. 
It was accordingly agreed that prayers should be attended every 
evening at nine o'clock, and that grace should be said at all the 
meals on board ship. It affords me great pleasure to record that 
nearly all the party regularly attended throughout the voyage, as 
well as at the Sabbath-day services, when a sermon was preached 
at eleven o'clock. It is a happy thing for the voyager who for 
the first time looks back upon the receding shores of his beloved 
land, that, amid the disquietudes that fill his imagination and the 
natural forebodings of terror, connected, probably, with actual 
suffering, he has the prospect of revelling- amid the cherished day- 
dreams of his boyhood ; he anticipates an association with the 
glorious homes of England, the battle-fields of freedom, the classic 
plains of Italy and Greece, and the storied shores of the Medi- 
terranean. I have noticed, on several passages over the Atlantic, 
that a thoughtful and contemplative mood is the characteristic 
feature of the voyager for the first two or three days; his mind 
appears to fall back upon his history, and, apart from the excite- 
ment of life's usual tide, the man remembers the way by which he 
3 



28 

has been led. A great change is felt to have been made in a few 
short hours. The different pursuits of life in which all have been 
occupied are broken off. A period of calm repose is afforded ; 
a thing so new and untried by most of our party, — business men, 
for whose ardor the days are too short and the nights are too 
long. 

The next day after leaving New York, the day was all that we 
could desire ; not a cloud was visible, the sun shone most glo- 
riousl3% and it seemed happiness to exist. At twelve o'clock, it 
was announced that we had made one hundred and seventy -six 
miles since eight o'clock the previous evening. This was regarded 
as satisfactory for the first day, because we were under moderate 
steam. Mr. Yanderbilt distinctly informed us that his plan was 
to insure safety for the prosecution of the whole voyage, which 
would probably be one of nearly twenty thousand miles, and that 
the attainment of great speed was no object of his ambition. Of 
the power and capacity of the North Star he. had no doubt ; but, 
with such objects to effect as he proposed, he felt unwilling to 
make any rash attempts at unusual rapidity. 

It is worth stating that, in making up the complement of fire- 
men for the voyage, Mr. Germaine had selected a company of 
picked men, whose abilities he knew from former service. But, an 
hour before the yacht was to commence her voyage, this depart- 
ment of the ship's company saw fit to strike for wages, supposing 
that such a measure, at so critical a juncture, would meet with a 
sure compliance. But the calculation was made without the 
host, and in total ignorance of the man with whom they had to 
do. True to his principles of action in all his business affairs, 
Mr. Vanderbilt refused to be coerced by the seeming necessity of 
the case; he would not listen for a moment to demands so urged, 
and in one hour selected such firemen as could be collected ; and 
many of them were green hands, and ill-adapted to give efficient 
service in their most important department, where skill and 
adroitness are necessary qualifications, and can only be the result 



DIVINE SERVICE. 29 

of experience. Several of the seamen, too, were fresh from the 
rural occupations of life. One youth was ordered to strike two 
bells, and, after a tardy movement, he reported that he could 
only find one bell ! Several whales were seen not far from the 
ship, and their gambols amused those who had never before seen 
Leviathan at home. 

On the 22d, our party was all in usual health, with the excep- 
tion of three of the ladies, who suffered from the new acquaint- 
ance formed with the ocean, although the sea was as smooth as 
the North river. At eleven o'clock divine service was per- 
formed in the saloon, and attended by many of the officers and 
crew of the ship. In view of the long period of intimate asso- 
ciation we were likely to spend on board the yacht, the text 
selected for the occasion was one of a practical character, — 
Proverbs 16 : 32. " He that is slow to anger is better than the 
mighty, and he that ruleth his spirit than he that taketh a city." 
The singing was fine, and the accompaniment of the piano 
very acceptable. The log of the ship this day recorded two 
hundred and seventy-two miles. 

The 23d was a bright, fine day, and the run of the yacht two 
hundred and seventy-eight miles, — the wind abaft, and a little 
more sea on, causing her to roll. We passed the ship Sharon, 
of Bath ; we gave her three hearty cheers, and she returned the 
compliment by lowering her flag. 

lAth. — Our run was two hundred and sixty miles. At seven 
minutes past seven a. m., we stopped one hour to key up. All 
day amused by vast schools of porpoises playing close around us, 
and nearly touching our wheels. 

25^;A. — Two hundred and seventy miles. In the night we 
crossed the banks of Newfoundland ; the day was slightly foggy, 
the sea like a mirror, with a perceptible ground-swell. In the 
morning, between two and three, we passed and spoke the Mary 
Crocker, of Bath, from Liverpool, bound to Philadelphia ; we 
glided close by her stern. Soon after daylight, a small land- 



80 LAND-BIRD — CONCERTS. 

bird flew on board ; it appeared quite exhausted. Poor thing ! it 
had lost its way, and here it was almost mid-ocean. We fed it 
with crumbs and seed, and it seemed nearly disposed to form an 
acquaintance with our canary-bird. A recent traveller, in re- 
cording a similar event, says, very beautifully, of a stray bird, 
" Is it not an epitome of man when he breaks the golden chords 
of that harmony which bind him to his God ? " 

The extreme tranquillity of the ocean prevented us from 
feeling that we were at sea. The pleasant weather kept us 
much on deck, and we found constant employment in gazing upon 
the lights and shades of the ever-rolling waves. Our evenings 
were spent very agreeably in listening to music from the ladies. 
We had a fine piano, and several of the party possessed vocal 
powers of a high order. I have rarely enjoyed a concert on 
shore as much as some of our entertainments at sea. One gen- 
tleman of the party possessed fine taste in Italian music, and 
several others had good voices, and our concerts would have been 
respectable on shore ; but at sea they were marvellously well re- 
ceived by a gratified audience. The ladies were always in voice, 
and many a song I heard on the ocean-wave will long dwell upon 
the ear of memory. The sailors, too, were decidedly fond of 
negro melody. One of them, who answered to the euphonious 
name of " Pogee," was, I think, quite equal to the Christy Min- 
strels. Every evening, he made plenty of amusement for all 
hands ; and many a merry group have I seen gathered round 
him to listen to " Jordan am a hard road to trabel, I believe." 

IQth. — The ship's run was two hundred and eighty-five miles. 
Exchanged signals with the ship Charlotte Harrison. Her decks 
crowded with emigrants. Day overcast. 

'2"ith. — No observation by sun. The calculation of the log 
was two hundred and sixty-five miles. This day our bird left 
us. Saw several vessels. 

28^/i — We made three hundred miles, and had a fine breeze. 
The day charming. 



COMFORT AND LUXURY OF VOYAGE. 31 

29^A. — Sunday. Our ship's reckoning was three hundred 
and thirty-seven miles. After a thick night, the sun rose clear. 
Attended divine service. 

This was a great day's work. Our average revolutions four- 
teen and one-half. No doubt exists that we could have made 
three hundred and sixty miles, had the effort been put forth. The 
Baltic, on a trip from Liverpool to New York, once made three 
hundred and thirty -six miles ; but the difference of time in her 
favor was twenty-eight and one-half minutes, making her run- 
ning-time twenty-four hours, twenty-eight minutes, thirty seconds. 
Whereas we wei*e going east, and so lost twenty-eight and one- 
half minutes on our twenty-four hours. Giving the North Star 
the benefit of this calculation, and our twenty-four hours affords 
a run of three hundred and forty-four miles. It will astonish 
many to learn that the consumption of coal this day was only 
forty-two tons, by the engineer's register. 

In relation to the style of living on board the steamer, I may 
say that, with all our knowledge of the splendid accommodations 
of the ship when we commenced our voyage, yet I think none 
of the party expected the luxurious fare with which we were 
provided. I hazard no contradiction from any of my messmates, 
when I say that on our voyage from New York to Southampton 
our table was equal to that of any hotel in America, and the 
desserts rivalled in richness and variety anything that I have wit- 
nessed in the Astor, Metropolitan or St. Nicholas. It would be 
wrong if I omitted to express my admiration of Mr. Vander- 
bilt's kindness and bearing in the supervision of all our affairs. 
Naturally anxious for the success of his undertaking, he was 
cautious, prudent and self-reliant. Often did I wish that more 
than the members of our privileged company could have seen 
him day by day, kind and attentive to his officers, polite and 
liberal to his guests. Mr. Vanderbilt I had long known to be 
possessed of great qualities, a mighty grasp of intellect, and 
lyapaHlitiv i of the highest order. Yet, till I entered upon this 
3* 



32 PILOT — CIIAXXEL. 

voyage, I did not adequately appreciate his knowledge of men, 
his fine tact, his intuitive perception of the fitting, and his digni- 
fied self-control; and I felt glad that such a man, self-made as 
he is, should be seen by the accidental sons of nobility and 
fortune in the Old World. 

Tuesday, June 1, at ten minutes past six. New York time, we 
took a pilot on board — making our voyage from pilot to pilot ten 
days, eight hours, forty minutes. The fellow proved to be careless 
and ignorant, and he managed to place the yacht on a bank of 
soft mud, not far from the Needles. At the flood tide we got off, 
and anchored in the night, at Southampton-water. Our passage up 
the British Channel was delightful, giving us fine views of the Eng- 
lish coast, including Cornwall, Devonshire and Dorsetshire. The 
opening up of the Bill of Portland was a noble piece of scenery, 
and all our party spent the day on deck ; and as the day was fine, 
though breezy, we enjoyed every moment. The passage, as we 
passed the Needles, was deeply interesting ; we obtained a fine 
view of the stupendous cliffs which overhang them, and admired 
their isolated situation and exceedingly picturesque form. These 
huge rocks, as well as the awful cliffs, seem to be composed of a 
pearly-colored chalk. 



CHAPTER Til. 

80UTHABIPT0N SCENEKY HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS STEAM PACKET 

COMPANIES HIGH-STREET AMERICAN VICE-CONSUL, MR. COX DOCKS 

STEAMERS REV. THOMAS ADKINS ARRIVE IN LONDON QUEEN'S 

DRAWING-ROOM OBJECTS OF CURIOSITY, ETC. HYDE PARK KEN- 
SINGTON GARDENS regent's PARK VISITS TO WESTMINSTER AND OTH- 
ER PUBLIC PLACES WINDSOR HAMPTON COURT BRISTOL CLIFTON 

AND VICINAGE TINTERN IIENBURY AND COTTAGES LOCAL SCENERY 

BERKELEY CASTLE GLOUCESTER CHELTENHAM ENGLISH COUNTRY 

SCENERY. 

It was one of England's most joyous, brilliant mornings, when 
we woke up and gazed out upon as richly cultivated a landscape as 
the southern coast of Britain can present. Directly before us lay 
the ancient town of Southampton, which is situated upon a prom- 
ontory, formed by the confluence of the small rivers Test and 
Itchen. A gradual ascent leads towards the north. The tide 
flows to some distance above the town, and the noble estuary, 
known as the Southampton-water, extends several miles below, 
and afibrds convenient anchorage to shipping at all states of the 
tide, while the charming Isle of Wight constitutes an immense 
breakwater, and protects it from the rage of ocean storms. The 
salubrity of this region has established its reputation as a water- 
ing-place ; and the climate being so mild and dry, it has been a 
popular resort for invalids afflicted with pulmonic afiections. Very 
numerous instances of benefit to those who have suffered from 
bronchial irritation are reported. It is a matter of notoriety that 
all epidemics have assumed a milder form in this vicinity than in 
most other pA aces. Dr. Granville, in his capital work on the Spas 
of England, iwards high commendation to this town as a resort 



34 SCENERY — HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. 

for the weak, and speaks of its gravelly soil and its fine dry 
walks. The approach to Southampton from the water presents 
a pleasing landscape. The churches, towers and spires on the 
central point, with the rivers on either side winding into the dis- 
tant, obscure gray, and the fine woodlands of the New Forest, with 
the beautiful villas off to the left, and the noble ruins of Netley 
Abbey at the right, combine tp delight the eye ; and on few 
spots can a ^venly voyager land in Great Britain with more 
pleasurable emotions than at this venerable town. It was here 
that Dr. Watts was born, and, gazing upon the fair prospect be- 
yond the water in front of the town, he wrote the well-known 
and exquisite stanza — 

" Sweet fields beyond the swelling flood 
Stand dressed in living green." 

It was on this very beach that Canute rebuked his sycophantic 
courtiers, as the advancing tide approached the Danish monarch. 
From this port the army of Henry V. sailed to France when he 
attempted the conquest of that country. And a still more im- 
portant historical event is associated with Southampton, and one 
that must ever make it an interesting place to New England 
men ; it was from this town that our Pilgrim Fathers sailed in 
the Mayflower, when they conmienced the voyage of destiny, to 
found a commonwealth which is now exerting an influence all over 
the globe. I should mention that all around are to be traced the 
remains of Roman works ; close by was their great Camp Clau- 
sentum. For many years Southampton was a remarkably still, 
quiet place ; but it has undergone a vast change in a few years, 
by the construction of railroads and docks. The steam packet 
companies, Oriental, West India and South-western, have se- 
lected this as their port for passage to the Mediterranean, West 
India and American ports ; and a busy sight it is to see the arrival 
and departure of the immense steamers. We found several fine 
hotels ; one, styled the New York Hotel, had the star-spangled 
banner displayed for our special accommodation. Some of our 



AMERICAN VICE-CONSUL — DOCKS. 35 

gentlemen, who repaired to it for a lunch on shore, were not very 
favorably impressed with it. Radley's Hotel, near the railroad, 
and I think the Dolphin, are well-kept houses. 

I hardly know a town that can show a more beautiful main 
street than Southampton, except it be Oxford. The High-street 
opens from the quay, and under various names it winds in a gen- 
tly-sweeping line for one mile and a half, and is of a very hand- 
some width. The variety of style and color of material in the 
buildings afibrds an exhibition of outline, light and color, that I 
think is seldom equalled. The shops are very elegant, and the 
streets are kept exceedingly clean. In the absence of Mr. 
McCroskey, the United States consul, we were visited by his 
obliging and polite representative, Mr. Cox, and Mr. Hillier, his 
kind assistant ; and by his advice the North Star hauled into the 
docks for the purpose of coaling. We were much gratified by 
an inspection of the docks, pierhead and quays, which are admi- 
rably constructed, and look as if designed to last for all time. 
The buildings around the quays are in fine taste ; and we observed 
one in particular, a handsome erection of the Italian style, belong- 
ing to the Royal Yacht Club. From the ofl&cers of this club we re- 
ceived a polite invitation to visit their house and use their rooms. 
The Plata, a large steamer of twenty-eight hundred tons, was lying 
next to the North Star. She had just returned from the West In- 
dies or Brazil, and had lost several persons by yellow fever. Close 
by us were the Oronoka, a fine steamer, just ready for sea, and 
the Indus. All these were first-class steamers. Here, too, was 
the old Great Western, so familiar to New Yorkers, undergoing 
repairs, which seemed really necessary. A steam frigate came 
into the dock to receive a part of a regiment bound to a foreign 
port. The soldiers, as they marched along the dock, looked like 
fine fellows, and many of them had their wives to embark with 
them. Thirty years had passed away since I had visited this 
town, and I almost dreaded to call on my former acquaintances, 
lest I should feel how the march of time had left its footsteps 



36 REV. THCMAS ADKINS — AEKIVE IN LONDON. 

and impressions. I called on the Rev. Thomas Adkins, the In- 
dependent minister, who settled over his congregation in 1810. 
I well remembered his manly form and his noble bearing, and, as 
I approached his residence, I told the ladies that Mr. Adkins 
used to be regarded as one of the noblest-looking men in Eng- 
land. We found him at home, and I was delighted and aston- 
ished to perceive how very gently age had touched his princely 
form. He certainly was the finest-looking man I saw in England, 
of his age ; and our ladies thought him one of the most splendid 
men they had ever seen. Mr. Adkins and his wife visited us on 
board the yacht, and we passed a very pleasant hour in conver- 
sation respecting friends of other days, most of whom are removed 
from the present state. Mr. Adkins has a large congregation, 
and his townsmen are justly proud of his talents and finished 
character as a Christian gentleman. The church under the pas- 
toral care of this gentleman dates its origin to the important year 
1688. We saw less of my venerable friend than we should have 
done, as he was just on the eve of setting out on his summer ex- 
cursion to France. In the evening, a party from the ship rode 
through the town and round its environs. I do not believe that 
the ladies will soon forget the delight which they experienced 
from their first sight of the cottages and villas of the suburban 
region of Southampton. The next morning, June 2, we took the 
train to London, at eleven o'clock a. m. We had a good view of 
Winchester and its noble cathedral ; and some of the party visited 
the grand old city, and partook of the hospitalities of Mr. Alder- 
man Andrews, whose name is so endeared to Americans. We 
arrived at London at two o'clock. As it happened to be a Queen's 
Drawing-room that day, we found the city in a high state of ex- 
citement, and the hotels thronged. Seldom have I known so 
much difficulty in obtaining accommodation ; and, as our party 
was a large one, it was no easy matter to find quarters for all in 
one hotel. I was anxious to get in at my old favorite house, the 
Golden Cross, Charing Cross, nearly opposite to Northumberland 



HYDE PARK. Wf 

House ; but Mr. Gardiner was unable to take even half our number. 
We at last established ourselves at St. James's Hotel, in Jermyn- 
street, and found good accommodations. Two or three noblemen 
reside in this hotel ; and one, Lord Blayney, has made it his city 
residence for many years. Our friends, who were in London for 
the first time, were greatly delighted with the extraordinary dis- 
play of equipage occasioned by the Drawing-room. Every street 
was thronged with carriages waiting for their turn to take up the 
company at the Palace. The coachmen and footmen all had im- 
mense bouquets in their bosoms, and the splendid liveries and 
powdered heads and white wigs of the drivers were novelties to 
most of the North Star part3^ I was anxious to know Avhat 
would be the first object of curiosity to the ladies, and not a little 
surprised to find that the Thames Tunnel was voted for as our 
primary visit. The morning was devoted to it, and a visit to the 
Tower, the Monument, and St. Paul's Cathedral. This last edi- 
fice was so lumbered up with scaffolding erected for the great 
gathering of the school-boys, held on the 1st of June, that we had 
but a very poor view of the noble sanctuary. By tlie way, after 
visiting almost every celebrated religious temple of Europe, I 
am satisfied that St. Paul's Cathedral is kept in the worst con- 
dition of any that I have seen. Its statuary has on it the 
thick dust of long, long years; and the general internal ap- 
pearance of the church is discreditable to the nation. My im- 
pressions in reference to this cathedral are gathered from fre- 
quent previous visits, and have nothing to do with its condition 
at this time. 

After dinner we rode to Hyde Park, and there we were amused 
with a spectacle that can be witnessed nowhere else. Hundreds, 
and I may say thousands, were taking their accustomed rides, 
and we had a good opportunity to see the ladies, gentlemen, horses 
and carriages, of London and England. The horses we thought, 
on the whole, not what we had expected, but there were some 
very noble animals ; the ladies appeared to great advantage, but 



38 KENSINGTON GARDENS. 

we thought that the gentlemen certainly might improve in horse- 
manship. 

London is indeed to be envied for the possession of her parks ; 
they are her gems, her crowning glory, in my esteem. Three 
hundred and forty-nine acres, and close to the brick and mortar, 
and noise and turmoil, of this great Babel ! This park has a 
great entrance from Piccadilly, by fine arched gateways, with a 
lodge, and several other approaches from Oxford-street, Bays- 
water, Kensington and Knightsbridge. The park is laid out with 
noble walks, and spacious drives, in which only private carriages 
are admissible. From April to July, between five and seven p. m., 
the scene presented is very gay and attractive. A road called 
Rotten Row is kept exclusively for the use of equestrians ; it is 
nearly two miles long, and is covered with fine loose gravel. In 
the park is the beautiful sheet of water known as the Serpentine, 
and at its junction with Kensington Gardens is an elegant stone 
bridge. The Serpentine extends over, I think, not less than fifty 
acres, and early in the morning it affords fine bathing to hun- 
dreds of the citizens of London. The noble old trees of this park 
are worthy objects of admiration. I like to stand on the high 
ground near the Edgeware road, and catch glimpses of the river 
through the forest trees, while off to the south are seen the Surrey 
Hills, and church-spires and antique towers on all sides, and fine 
mansions peeping from the trees. Here, too, are often witnessed 
the reviews of the troops stationed in the metropolis. I spoke of 
Kensington Gardens : these are a continuation of Hyde Park, 
and embrace three hundred acres. In 1550, all these six hun- 
dred and forty-nine acres were a royal enclosure, and stocked 
with game, and Majesty hunted for pastime. It was appropriated 
in 1851 to a nobler end ; and here was the most important popu- 
lar gathering that England ever witnessed, at the Great Exhibi- 
tion. Our rides through the Ptegent's Park, which contains four 
hundred and fifty acres, afforded us much enjoyment. The villas 
and terraces which have been built during the last fifteen years 



BKISTOL 39 

are exquisite specimens of architecture. Here are the Zoological 
Gardens and the Coliseum. No foreigner should fail to visit this 
noble park; and here I think he will gain his best estimate of 
the beauty and elegance of English city life, as it is enjoyed by 
the opulent. The long walk, with its four lines of elm-trees, is a 
remarkable avenue. 

We made very interesting visits to Westminster Abbey, the 
new Houses of Parliament, Bank of England, Koyal Exchange, 
British Museum, Buckingham Palace, and other great objects 
of curiosity in London ; and excursions were made to Hampton 
Court, Windsor Castle, Richmond, &c. 

Several members of the party left London for other places. 
Some went to Liverpool, and others to Bristol, Clifton, Bath, 
Gloucester and Cheltenham. I cannot omit mention of a rapid 
visit which I made to ra}^ native city, and where I had the 
good fortune to arrive just in time to join a large family party 
at dinner, enabling me to meet those with whom I must other- 
wise have left England without enjoying an interview. Bristol 
is a glorious old city; it is full of history; not a street, a 
church, a hill (and, like Borne, it has seven hills), but is identified 
with other days, and days of note. It boasts of Roman settle- 
ment; figured largely in the wars of the barons; was the birth- 
place of Sebastian Cabot; was a great bone of contention 
between Royalists and Parliamentarians ; was the scene of poor 
Naylor's judicial tortures, and Judge Jeffries' cruelties ; the 
home of Chatterton, Southey, Coleridge, Cottle, Hannah More, 
Robert Hall, Richard Reynolds, William Thorp, Dr. Ryland, 
Bird, the artist, Bayley, the sculptor ; was represented in Par- 
liament by Edmund Burke; was burned and sacked by the 
rioters in 1831 ; and is the abode of more Christian charities 
than any other city I know, excepting Boston and New York. 
Here is the great boast of the west of England, — the unrivalled 
parish church of St. Mary Redclifi"e. This venerable pile is 
undergoing a thorough renovation. It contains the monument 
4 



40 



CLIFTON AND ITS SCENERY. 



and grave of Admiral Penn, father of the founder of 1 ennsylva- 
nia. In the evening — our only one — we took a carriage to visit 
Clifton, on the banks of the Avon, with its unequalled scenery 




ST. Vincent's rocks, on the Avon. 
of St. Vincent's Rocks, the Down, Hotwells, Henbury and Blaise 
Hamlet. I have no knowledge of any spot on earth that can 
furnish a ride of such beauty in five hours. From the hill at 
Kingsweston we looked down upon the winding Avon, saw its 
junction with the " Severn swift," gazed upon the Welsh Hills, 
Bristol Channel, and took a look over at the mouth of the Wye 
and Wynd ClifFe, close by which is Tintern Abbey, the shrine of 
beauty at which my boyish devoirs were often paid. Tintern is 
the grandest ecclesiastical ruin in Europe, and Mr. Webster 
regarded it as alone sufficient to recompense a traveller for 
crossing the ocean to pay it a visit. I never heard the great 
man more eloquent than one day, after his return from Europe, 
when he conversed upon the abbey and its vicinage. The Wye 
had filled the sportsman's eye, and the beauties of the works of 
religion and art had animated his mind. I remember he ex- 



HENBURY COTTAQES. 41 

pressed the wish that he could have had gathered round him, 
when he stood at Tintern, all he loved. Henburj, about four 
miles from Bristol, is one of England's most beautiful villages ; 
it looks full of peace, contentment, elegance and virtue. Here 
is Blaise Castle, the residence of John Scandret Harford, a man 
of large fortune, fine literary taste, and great eloquence, and, 
what is more and better than all, a Christian man. In many 
respects he resembles our own Everett. From his domain the 
eye drinks in scenes of paradisiac beauty. In the distance are 
ridge upon ridge of mountain ranges off in Monmouthshire, bold 
and green, then dimly blue. In the village, the munificence of 
this gentleman has laid out ten cottages of great taste, known as 
Blaise Hamlet, and which are the residences of ladies of decayed 
fortune ; such another group of sweet rural homes England can- 
not show. 0, the happy hours of my boyhood that I have 
passed in this village, on the Avon's banks ! and what tea-drink- 
ings have I had in these cottages, and in the arbors which sur- 
round them ! I really believe that, either from the impressions 
which I received in childhood in this glorious region, or from 
some peculiar organization, I have felt so much delight, in ram- 
bling abroad among scenes of beauty, sublimity, and historical 
interest. Nor do I regret a wayside wandering I have ever 
made. I am sure that "Wordsworth spoke like a prophet when 
he said, 

" And not unrecompensed the man shall roam. 
Who, to converse with Nature, quits his home." 

Why, there are hundreds of nooks and dells, ingles and hillsides, 
lanes and orchardings, streams and lakes,, mountains and cata- 
racts, mapped into my very soul ; and often do I get their lati- 
tudes and longitudes in solitary hours and in night seasons. I 
do not repent me that these witching charms have led me off 
from the turnpike road of life as by a magic spell. Yes, long 
years ago, when I have listened to the thrush and blackbird in 
this same village, I have blessed the man who helped to make 



42 



BLAISE HAMLET — GLOUCESTErvSHIKE. 



the reg'ion have so much of heaven in its pathways. I feel 
young again as I walk through woods and vales where I learned 
to be what I am. 

These cottages are all different in style, and either of them 
would form an admirable lodge for a gentleman's estate. The 
sketches of a few are shown in the accompanying illustrations, 




HENEURY COTTAGES 



and I took the pains and expense to obtain drafts of the ground 
plans of all of them, with a plot of the group entire. 0, that 
some of our wealthy men would adorn the neighborhood of our 
cities with so much of beauty and the sweet charity of life ! 
From Bristol we took our route through Gloucestershire, for 
Cheltenham. The county of Gloucestershire is renowned for its 
scenery, and nowhere can the traveller find so much manufactur- 
ing interest united with more perfect rural beauty than he meets 
with in the rail-car between Bristol and Gloucester. The fac- 
tory and its operatives are planted on the edges of hills, under 



BERKELEY CASTLE — GLOUCESTER. 43 

the wings of woods, amid honeysuckles, laburnums, gilliflowers, 
and jessamines ; all around are running brooks and singing birds 
and. busy bees. And what roads and lanes of beauty! — and 
then the exquisite mingling up of gorse, and bloom, and heath, 
and fern ! Talk of cottages ! — come and see the laboring man's 
cottage on these hill-sides. There are flowers all round his door, 
ivy trailing to the gable-ridges, fruit-trees right and left, and one 
side of the house is pretty sure to have a pear-tree trained all 
over it. No man understands the thousand beauties of Great 
Britain who does not wander through her inland counties, and 
tramp through the unnumbered old roads that lead to nowhere. 

We passed by Berkeley's flinty towers, where England's king 
died at the command of his cruel queen, Isabella, the she-wolf 
of France. This castle will well repay a visit from the tourist. 
I am familiar with it, and know few places more deserving notice. 
The private chapel is one of the oldest in the kingdom, and in 
the mansion are capital pictures by Jansen, Holbein, Lely, and 
Vandyke ; while few collections can show better specimens of 
Claude Lorraine, Salvator Rosa, Ostade Wouvermans, Peter 
Keefs, Both, and Leonardi da Vinci. Those who are pleased 
with old furniture will have a treat in this castle. One cabinet 
of oak is thought to be unsurpassed ; and here, too, are the sofa, 
chairs and bedstead, which were the cabin furniture of Sir 
Francis Drake in his famous voyage round the world. Close to 
the church-yard stands Chantry Cottage, the residence of the 
immortal Jenner. 

Gloucester is a staid, respectable little city ; and, like all 
cathedral towns, contains a decent share of pompous compla- 
cency. A recent increase of business has come to this place by 
railroad communication and enlargement of her access to the 
ocean, by which it has become a port of entry. This city has a 
pleasant site on the east bank of the Severn, and has four fine 
streets, which proceed from the centre of the town. The cathe- 
dra, is a noble edifice, and was originally the convent church of 
4* 



44 CHELTENHAM — SCENERY. 

a Benedictine abbey, wliicli was erected in tlie early part of the 
eleventh century. The choir of this church is, perhaps, the finest 
specimen of the florid style of architecture in the kingdom. 
The building is rich in monuments ; and among the more recent 
ones are those to the memory of Jenner, who introduced vaccina- 
tion as an antidote to the sad malady of the small-pox, and 
Robert Raikes, who founded Sunday-schools. Grloucester took 
a decided stand against Charles I. in the civil wars ; and Charles 
II., on his restoration, ordered the walls of the city to be demol- 
ished. 

Cheltenham is a modern place. It has grown up in the pres- 
ent century, and presents more of the appearance of progress 
and improvement than most English towns. Its newness reminds 
one of an American town or city. It is renowned for its medicinal 
springs, and, like our Saratoga, is much resorted to by the fash- 
ionable. Our object in visiting Cheltenham was to pay our 
respects to a family from whom, in 1836, we had received great 
kindness and attention ; and our short tarry was a very delight- 
ful one, enabling us to recall days of pleasure which we often 
think of in our western home. 

The ride from Cheltenham to Swindon, where we took the 
Great Western Railroad, is through a lovely piece of country. 
We were delighted with the snugness and comfort of the dwell- 
ings of the gentry ; and all the cottages, excepting of the very 
poorest class, presented something attractive. We noticed high- 
fenced fields all fringed with noble trees ; houses buried up in 
shrubberies and clumps of forest wood ; beautiful cattle browsing 
in rich pasturage ; and all this often in the smallest space, sq 
that a glance of the eye takes in the entire picture. The con- 
stant green of England is to me the great charm of her natural 
scenery ; it is like the smile on woman's face, giving expression 
to every change of feature. I am sure that these exquisite 
snuggeries must exert a favorable influence upon the domestic 
qualities and much of the simplicity of English character may 



RURAL SCENERY OF ENGLAND. 



45 



be traced to the prevailing love of rural life. You may travel 
all over Europe, and find no such homes as are everywhere to be 
met with in England. You have a sense of tranquillity, and the 
spots are favorable to thought. I love the pleasures of city life, 
and I know that art, science, intellect, literature, are in a great 
metropolis, — it is the rojiil exchange for the human mind. I 
appreciate libraries and lectures, collections, galleries and mu- 
seums ; but still, when I enjoy the shade of venerable elms in a 
fine old farm-house, on the banks of a river which almost washes 
its walls, and gaze out on the garniture of hill and vales, I am 
conscious of pleasure which London or New York cannot afford. 
What we sadly want, in our happy and glorious country, is to cir- 
cumscribe the beautiful, and learn the knack of creating rural 
scenery on a small scale in our sequestered villas and cottages. 




HENEURY COTTAGES 



CHAPTER lY. 

HOX. AND REV B-'PTIST NOEL MR. GEORGE PEABODY OPERA DINNER 

AT RICHMOND — HON. STEPHEN A. DOUGLAS RECEPTION-NIGHT AT 

HON. J. B. IN&ERSOLL'S, THE AMERICAN MINISTER THE LORD MAY- 
OR'S SOIREE MR. DEPUTY BENOCH THOMAS PRICE, LL.D. TOOVEY 'S 

BOOKSTORE DEPUTATION FROM SOUTHAMPTON TONE OF ENGLISH 

FEELING TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER 

STREET AMUSEMENTS SCENE IN AN OMNIBUS. 

On our first Sunday morning in London, a party was formed 
to hear the Hon. and Rev. Baptist Noel, brother to the Earl of 
Gainsborough. Mr. Noel was formerly chaplain to the queen; 
but, a few years ago, he became a dissenter. He preaches in 
a very plain meeting-house, formerly occupied by the Rev. 
John Harrington Evans, also a Baptist dissenter from the 
national establishment. The place of worship will accommodate 
about one thousand persons, when the galleries are filled. The 
congregation is large. We found every seat filled, and benches 
in the aisles. Mr. Noel is about fifty-four years of age, and 
looks much younger. He is a fine figure, and has a resemblance 
to the engraving of Bishop Heber. The singing was congrega- 
tional, without any organ ; all present seemed to unite, and the 
effect was excellent. The tunes were such as every one recog- 
nized. I remember that Oswestry and Helmsley were used that 
morning. We were much gratified with the prayer ofiered. It 
was uttered slowly ; the petitions were very minute and definite ; 
and there was a decided avoidance of anything like set phrases. 

The text was in the fifth chapter of the first Epistle to the 
Thessalonians, from first to the fifth verse : " But of the times 
and seasoms, brethren, ye have no need that I write unto you," 



MR. GEORGE PEABODY. OE LONDON. 47 

&a. The congregation seemed furnished with Bibles, and every 
one appeared to turn to the text. The discourse was expository ; 
and not often have I listened to such a noble specimen of lectur- 
ing from the desk. I have heard this preacher when he was far 
more eloquent, but never when he appeared to finer advantage 
as a religious instructor. 

We left St. John's Chapel much pleased with its distinguished 
minister, and we should all like to listen again to his solenni 
teachings. 

One of the first persons to call upon Mr. Yanderbilt and his 
family in London was our distinguished fellow-citizen, Mr, 
George Peabody, whose generous hospitality to his countrymen 
has rendered him so well known to hundreds who have visited 
the metropolis. Possessed of ample means, this gentleman 
delights in paying attentions to all who come to him with proper 
claims upon his notice. Probably no American resident in Eng- 
land has done as much as Mr. Peabody in bringing the best men 
of England and America together, and thus cementing a strong 
national friendly feeling. The celebration of the fourth of July, 
1851, by Mr. Peabody, when he entertained a thousand guests, 
and had among them the Duke of Wellington, and many others 
of the peerage, was a measure that, a few years ago, would hardly 
have been anticipated; and, indeed, cautious folks dissuaded the 
large-hearted man from attempting it. Mr. P. proffered Mr. and 
Mrs. Vanderbilt and ladies the use of his boxes that evening at 
the opera, and as long as they remained in town. The following 
notice of the opera was furnished me by the kindness of one of 
the gentlemen of our party, who was present : 

"OrERA IN LONDON. 

" Meyerbeer's great opera, ' Les Huguenots,' was represented 
at Covont Garden. It was the height of the season ; a large and 
fashionable assemblage filled the house; England's favorite, 



48 OPERA. 

Queen Victoria, and Prince Albert, were there, and many of the 
fairest and noblest of the land; yet we were disappointed. The 
spectacle was not so gorgeous and brilliant as we had expected 
on a court-night, — neither in the first coup d'ceil, the beauty of 
the ladies, nor the elegance of their toilet. The theatre is vast, 
and handsomely decorated ; but the boxes, being very deep, and 
partitioned off all the way up, conceal half the occupants, and 
present an air of heaviness. The queen and her suite occupied 
three double boxes, on the left side of the stage. She came in 
shortly after the overture was played. There was no ostentation 
in her manner, and no recognition by the audience of the pres- 
ence of majesty. The royal fliuteuil, placed in the centre of the 
box, did not seem to please her ; and, declining the proffered aid 
of the lords-in-waiting, she, with perfect nonchalance, rose, and 
drew another chair from the back to the front, and seated her- 
self. The queen is very robust and youthful-looking. She 
wore a rich white dress, exceedingly decolte, covered with point 
lace, and one ornament of great value — a magnificent pearl — 
on the stomacher. She wore no diadem, or insignia. 

" Prince Albert is a tall, stout-looking man, light-haired, 
and partially bald. His appearance was anything but aristo- 
cratic, notwithstandino; he exhibited a large star on his left 
breast, and a wide crimson silk riband over a white waistcoat. 
The queen and her royal consort were very quiet, and attentive 
to the performance. They left, shortly before it terminated, with 
as little ceremony as they had entered. 

" We searched scrutinizingly among the noble circles to dis- 
cover something in form or feature marking the stamp of hered- 
itary nobility ; but in vain. There were some exceptions, though 
not numerous enough to characterize the mass ; and we concluded 
that, divested of their rank and privileges, they were only com 
mon clay, after all. 

" The opera was glorious. The whole ' get up ' was grand, 
far surpassing anything ever seen in America ; — the scenery well 



OPERA — MR. PEABOLY's DINNER. 49 

painted, and admirably ilJustrative of the times represented; the 
stage business thoroughly managed; a powerful and efficient 
chorus ; a numerous and exquisitely-trained orchestra, led by 
the famous Costa, and the principal roles sung and acted by 
Grisi, Mario, Castellan, Formes and Belletti. Some of us, who 
had heard Grisi a dozen years before, remarked that her voice 
had measurably lost its freshness and volume, while her figure 
had gained in stoutness. But the irresistible attractions of her 
sublime declamation, her impassioned acting, and the enchanting 
tenderness of her smile, remained with undiminished power. 
Mario has the loveliest voice ever heard in man, at the same 
time virile and sonorous. He is still in the prime of his remark- 
able manly beauty, and still, without compeer, the first tenor in 
the world. Castellan has not improved since she visited Amer- 
ica. Her singing is flexible and brilliant, cold and unsympa- 
thetic. Formes — now that Lablache's once Titan powers are 
on the wane — stands at the head of all bassos. His voice is 
very remarkable, — the most powerful in the low notes, and the 
deepest, known ; it moves, as it were, in solid squares. Belletti, 
Jenny Lind's favorite singer, took the part of San Bris. For 
him it was an ungracious role, and he did not show to advantage. 
It was mainly recitative. We missed those beautiful cantabile 
airs which, in the concert-room, made him the unrivalled bari- 
tone. The opera in London is a wonderful performance ; the 
audiences there are more appreciative than in the New World, 
and the tout ensemble produces an efi"ect impossible to conceive 
from any description." 

Four of our party accepted an invitation to dine with Mr. 
Peabody at Bichmond, to meet Mr. Senator Douglas, who, like 
ourselves, was taking a tour of observation. No one who has 
read much respecting England can fail to know that Bichmond 
has long been renowned for its exquisite scenery. It was called 
by the Saxons the " Shene^'" or beautiful. Thomson, the poet 



60 RICHMOND ^— HON. J. R. INGERSOLL. 

of the Seasons, wrote many of his sweetest descriptions while 
staying in this place ; and his immortal poem is almost a pano- 
rama of the scenery for ten miles around. On the hill the 
spectator obtains a view of the most impressive panorama of 
English landscape which the country affords. I would advise all 
travellers, who can afford the time, to devote a day or two to 
this vicinity. In Richmond Park there are the pleasantest 
walks, and oaks which might awaken the devotion of a Druid ; 
and the American tourist is reminded of the oak-opening in 
Michigan. The traveller will not fail to be charmed with Kings- 
ton, Ditton, Hampton Court, and Bushy Park. The dinner was 
an elegant repast, and we met at table a number of our country- 
men whom it was a pleasure to meet; — among others, Gen. 
Cooper, of New York, — who, with his family, have made a very 
extended European tour, — Captain Folsom, &c, Mr. Douglas 
made a very sensible and eloquent reply-speech ; and I think that 
all who were present were much gratified with his practical, 
enlightened and patriotic views. Our minister at the Court of 
London — the Hon. Joseph R, Ingersoll — held a levee during our 
stay in town, to which Mr. A^anderbilt and his friends received 
an invitation. The attendance was large, and the party a very 
fashionable one. The display of diamonds was very brilliant. 
General attention was directed to Mr. Vanderbilt, who was quite 
the man of the occasion ; and all seemed desirous to obtain an 
introduction to one whose excursion was the great topic of 
newspaper correspondence and general conversation. Mr. Inger- 
soll was very courteous, and, with his accomplished niece, Miss 
Wilcox, seemed desirous to render us every facility to make our 
visit in London agreeable. At this entertainment many of the 
nobility expressed an earnest wish that Mr. Vanderbilt would 
bring his yacht round to the Thames, and enable the fashionable 
world — then, of course, in London — to visit the North Star. Mr. 
V. would have been glad to gratify these requests ; but he had 
no desire to take a step which might appear like ostentation, 



LORD MAYOR — ^ARTY AT MANSION HOUSE. 51 

and, moreover, he feared that the steamer would probably meet 
with obstructions in the river. 

On the 8th of June Mr. and Mrs. Yanderbilt, and several 
members of their family, attended a soiree, at the Mansion 
House, to which we had been politely invited by the Lord Mayor. 
This was a favorable occasion to observe the splendor of a Lon- 
don civic entertainment. The magnificent apartments are worthy 
of England's metropolis. We were courteously received by the 
chief magistrate and the Lady Mayoress. 

The Lord Mayor, this year, is the Right Honorable Thomas 
Challis, a wealthy merchant in hides, and a member of Parlia- 
ment. This gentleman is a distinguished dissenter, and belongs 
to the body of Christians known as " The Connection of the late 
Countess of Huntingdon." His lordship is the treasurer of the 
college at Cheshunt, where the clergy of this denomination 
receive their theological training. On this occasion there were, 
probably, some twelve or fifteen hundred persons present, in- 
cluding the Archbishop of Canterbury and seven other prelates, 
several members of the British cabinet, and a large number of 
the peerage. The party embraced many distinguished literary 
men, and Mr. Carlyle had many attentions shown him. The 
ball-room over the great Egyptian hall was filled with a unique 
collection of educational apparatus; and this had been placed 
here for the examination of the party, many of whom were dele- 
gates from all parts of the kingdom, attending a great educa- 
tional meeting. A more interesting spectacle than was here 
afforded can hardly be imagined; and, with such means and 
appliances as we saw, the schools of Great Britain must be in a 
prosperous condition. Maps, charts, globes and philosophical 
apparatus, were everywhere to be seen ; and the access to the 
room was crowded quite as densely as that leading to the place 
for refreshment. Among other distinguished visitors, I noticed 
Miss Greenfield, the " Black Swan," who was attended by a 
colored gentleman 
5 



52 REV. DR. COX — DR. PRICE — BIBLIOPOLISTS. 

It would be wrong to omit mention of our obligations to Mr, 
Deputy Benocli, whose polite attentions will be long remembcrerl 
by many of the North Star party. This gentleman was exceed- 
ingly kind in pointing out the notables assembled. 

I felt pained at the necessity imposed upon me to be appar 
ently neglectful of many dear and valued friends in London and 
its neighborhood ; but a stay limited to ten or twelve days, and 
many of which were entirely due to those of the party who were 
in London for the first time, precluded the possibility of calling 
on many whom I longed to see. 

We visited the Rev. Dr. Cox, of Hackney, — so well known in 
America from his visit, in company with Dr. Hoby, in 1835. 
We found the venerable man in usual health, and little supposed 
that his death was so near an event. On our arrival at New 
York, we learned that he died September 5th. ' 

We had the pleasure to spend some delightful hours with 
Thomas Price, LL.D., the distinguished editor of the Eclectic 
Revieiv, one of the ablest English periodicals, and which always 
has in its support the ablest pens of the liberal party. In this 
review appeared the best productions of the late John Foster. 
I made several agreeable lounges at the great bookstores of 
London, and was especially delighted with the glorious collection 
of old books at Mr. Toovey's, 42 Piccadilly. This vast 
library is peculiarly rich in works illustrative of English history, 
and I never met with so many of the county historians as are 
here gathered together. If any man wants to see the finest pos- 
sible specimens of binding, let him call at Toovey's, where he 
will find the work of Lewis, Payne, Duseuil, Derome, Montague, 
I^althoeber, and all the best binders of past times. On one 
occasion, I met with three distinguished bibliopolists at this shop, 
— Lord Hastings, Sir David Dundass, and Mr. Henry Foss. 
These gentlemen all spoke of the large collections of books, of 
high character, which are constantly exported to order from the 
United States, and raising the prices of old standard works as a 



MAYOR OF SOUTHAMPTON'S INVITATION. 53 

consequence. It was gratifying to hear their remarks in relation 
to our United States ministers to the court of London, It was 
observed that no country had ever sent such a number of great 
men as the United States, — Adams, Jay, Pinkney, King, Galla- 
tin, J. Q. Adams, Rush, Bancroft, Everett and Ingersoll, were 
regarded as first-class men ; whilst Stevenson and Abbot Law- 
rence have left an enviable reputation as gentlemen of the true 
old English school. It gave us much pleasure to meet with a 
large number of our fellow-citizens, from different states in the 
Union, while we were in London ; and they all appeared happy 
to pay their respects to one so well known at home as Mr. Van- 
derbilt. I found my old friend, the Hon. J. T. Van Allen, late 
U. S. Charge d'Affaires at Equador, still enjoying the best English 
society, and as happy as I left him in 1851. 

"While we were in this place, a deputation from Southampton 
waited on Mr. Yanderbilt, consisting of the mayor of the town 
and several members of the corporation ; the object of their visit 
was to present an invitation to Mr. V. and his party to partake 
of a public entertainment proffered by the principal merchants 
and tradesmen of that borough. This kind expression of public 
sentiment would have been respectfully declined ; but it was 
found that such arrangements had already been made, that it 
would be wrong to disappoint the wishes of the good people of 
the town. 

I wish to offer some remarks upon the tone of feeling which 
I found prevalent in England, with those persons in whose society 
I happened to pass my time, in relation to the United States. 
There is a very general sentiment and pride entertained by the 
country at our wonderful success and advancement in the scale of 
nations, arising from the fact that we are of English origin. 
An Englishman loves to think that those who speak his language, 
and have the laws of his land, and the religion of his fathers, 
should have in less than eighty years become a government 
reckoning twenty-five millions. He is pleased to hear of our 



54 ENGLISH FEELING TOWARDS AMERICA. 

extensive resources as regards variety of climate ; and you can 
seldom talk with any person in England who has not a relative, 
dear friend, or former neighbor, now settled in the Union. If 
the United States should ever be placed in a critical position, 
and her interests be at stake, England would rise up, with the 
voice as of one man, and fly to our aid. The liberty of speech 
is quite as well understood in England as with us, and as freely 
indulged; nothing social, religious, political, escapes their scrutiny 
and discussion; the popular mind has been directed to great 
subjects, and important results have been effected by public 
opinion. There is a disposition to regard all reforms as possible ; 
and the great subject of slavery is one that has taken hold of the 
public mind far more than it has ever interested the govern- 
ment. Hence all classes talk of slavery in America as a thing 
that can be reached, — ay, and easily. This arises from total 
unacquaintedness with the political relations of our country, and 
the state of parties in our political world. Only let an intelli- 
gent Englishman reside in the States a year or two, or travel 
through it, and he is almost sure to correct his opinions, and 
moderate his censures, upon this vexed point. We are far too 
sensitive about foreign sentiment respecting our habits, manners 
and institutions. Perhaps we are too exacting ; we are cer- 
tainly foolishly impatient under criticism, and this is encouraged 
by a few heady, reckless men who have the control of newspapers, 
and who, by thoughtless and even wicked articles, strive to 
kindle up a bad feeling between the two countries, who have 
more in common between them of momentous interest than any 
other two nations on the globe. I have never known a sensible 
American, who visited England, who did not leave it with in- 
creased respect for English character ; and I am sure that 
all sensible, educated Englishmen who visit our shores find 
enough to praise ; and they would say, " If we must change 
England for anoth3r land, let our homes be in America ! " 

The influence of America upon Great Britain is felt more and 



ENGLISH OPINIONS — STREET AMUSEMENTS. 55 

more every year. Our intercourse must be very intimate. Not 
only will England need our cotton ; she wants our wool (which 
she believes will soon be the best in the world), our wheat, our 
corn, our beef, pork, hams, cheese and butter; and, if we provide 
these things for her market, we must become a great manufactur- 
ing people as well, and still we shall be the best customer for 
her exports. The severest censures I heard upon our country 
came from men of great wisdom, and benevolence, and practical 
good sense; and I confess that I think their remarks have much 
force, and that there is too much occasion for their utterance. 
They express a fear that there is not in our country a sufficient 
pride in labor ; that we are already regarding it with aversion, 
and that luxury is likely to be our bane. We do want more 
nationality, more patriotism; and the people are far too prone to 
value that which has crossed the ocean to that which is fabricated 
at their own doors. A very wise and thinking man, who had 
gone through our country, told me in England that the most 
justifiable object of pride he saw in America, to an American, was 
Lowell. The remark was also made by this gentleman, that in 
his visit he was grieved to find the children of men who had 
grown rich by labor regarding all employment as dishonorable. 
Certainly our large cities do afford sad instances of a purse- 
proud spirit ; and the only hope is, that when wealth is lavished, 
expended, the next generation must go to work again; but the 
contagion of example, and the want of virtuous and wise training, 
will first bring a sad harvest of crime, folly and misery, to society. 
Few things amused our party more than the out-door, street 
exhibitions in London. In Jermyn-street, directly in front of 
our hotel, every afternoon a set of men in semi-mountebank and 
Highland costumes went through all sorts of fetes, rivalling the 
Ravel family. The party consisted of three or four, and some- 
times five. The street was regarded as their legitimate board, 
and cloths were laid down and the antics played ofi" without any 
hindrance from the police, who frequently looked on. The 
5=^ 



56 ASCOT RACES. 

eyes of tlie performers were often directed to the windows of 
our hotel and one opposite ; and I fancy the returns were tolera- 
bly satisfactory, as they came day by day. The Happy Family, 
too, proved a constant source of interest ; while Punch and Judy 
proved as. omnipotent in attraction as they were in the beginning, 
and ever will be. 

Mr. Vanderbilt and some of the gentlemen attended the Ascot 
races ; and, in going over from Windsor, they occupied seats in 
an omnibus, and the subject of conversation happened to be the 
American steam yacht at Southampton. One of the persons 
present said that he had been to see her, and gave a pretty 
glowing account of the North Star. He spoke of her elegance 
and accommodations at full length, and then ended by remark- 
ing that the commodore was a wide-awake man ; that he had 
twelve sons on board, and made them work the ship ; and that he 
saw seven or eight of them rowing the barge ashore. Mr. V. 
and his son, sitting next to the speaker, smiled and laid low. 



CHAPTER Y. 

INTEREST EXCITED BY ARRIVAL OF THE NORTH STAR LONDON DAILY 

NEWS DULWICH GALLERY MR. THOMAS COLLEY GR ATTAN A QUICK 

TRIP TO LEIPSIC OUR RETURN TO SOUTHAMPTON VISIT TO NETLEY 

ABBEY HISTORICAL NOTICE — SCENERY REV. DR. KREBBS EXCUR- 
SIONS REV. ALEXANDER MACLAREN SERVICES OF THE SABBATH, 

The arrival of the North Star in England was an event which 
called out the attention of the public press all over the kingdom ; 
and' the London daily papers contained numerous descriptions 
of the ship, and various articles upon her proprietor and his 
undertaking. Some of them were amusing enough. The follow- 
ing article appeared in the London Daily News, June 4 : 

" A WORD ABOUT MPw VANDEUBILt'S YACHT. 

"An American merchant has just arrived in London, on a 
pleasure trip. He has come by train from Southampton, and 
left his private yacht behind him in dock at that port. This 
yacht is a monster steamer. Her saloon is described as larger 
and more magnificent than that of any ocean steamer afloat, and 
is said to surpass in splendor the Queen's yacht. The walls of 
the dining-room are clothed with a new material, resembling 
polished marble and malachite. The building of the vessel 
alone cost one hundred thousand pounds. The expense of keep- 
ing it up is three hundred pounds a week. Listening to the de- 
tails of the grandeur of this new floating palace, it seems natural 
to think upon the riches of her owner, and to associate him with 
the Cosmo de Medicis, the Andrea Fuggers, the Jaques Coeurs, 
the Richard Whittingtons, of the past ; but this is wrong. Mr. 



58 LONDON DAILY NEWS. 

Vanderbllt is a sign of the times. The mediaeval merchants 
just named stood out in bold relief from the great society of 
their day. Mr. Yanderbilt is a legitimate product of his country, 
— the Medicis, Fuggers, and others were exceptional cases in 
theirs. They were fortunate monopolists, who, by means of 
capital and crushing privileges, sucked up the wealth of the 
community. They were not a healthy growth, but a kind of 
enormous wen on the body politic. It took Florence nearly 
fifteen centuries to produce one Cosmo, and she never brought 
forth another. America was not known four centuries ago ; yet 
she turns out her A^anderbilts, small and large, every year. 
America, which was only discovered by a countryman of Cosmo 
running against it by mistake on his way to the Indies, is the 
great arena in which the individual energies of man, uncramped 
by oppressive social institutions, or absurd social traditions, have 
full play, and arrive at gigantic development. It is the tendency 
of American institutions to foster the general welfare, and to 
permit the unchecked powers of the highly gifted to occupy a 
place in the general framework of society which they can obtain 
nowhere else. The great feature to be noticed in America is 
that all its citizens have full permission to run the race in which 
Mr. Vanderbilt has gained such immense prizes. In other 
countries, on the contrary, they are trammelled by a thousand 
restrictions. Look, for instance, at the land to which the dis- 
coverer of America was hastening, as he thought, when he ran 
against the New World. Look at India. The whole wealth of 
the country is absorbed, and the development of its industry is 
checked, by a government that hangs like an incubus over it, and 
paralyzes its free motion. Its capacities for wealth are enormous, 
but no one makes use of them. Its population is stationary or 
degenerating. It can with difficulty pay up the revenue which 
its masters exact from it. It is becoming bankrupt, and will be 
perhaps chargeable to the mother country. Its hundred millions 
of inhabitants vegetate in poverty, their ideas limited to the 



LONDON DAILY NEWS. 59 

narrowest of all spheres. AVhile hundreds of thousands of emi- 
grants are pouring annually into America, and becoming absorbed 
into the population of that country, adding to its wealth and their 
own, India is a sealed territory to nearly all except those who 
have friends in Leadenhall-street or Cannon-row. What can 
man do in a country like India, but vegetate among the oppressed, 
or live the life of a Sybarite among the oppressors? Is it won- 
derful that at the first sound of the railway whistle the Lotos- 
eating lords of the land should rush away up the country, far 
away from a sound which everywhere is connected with energy, 
wealth, activity, freedom and progress ? 

" But it will be said — why ^s the greatness of America to be 
unnaturally magnified by being compared with India ? Why 
not compare it with England, where there are free institutions, 
immense manufactures and commerce, and where there is no 
more impediment to a man's becoming a Vanderbilt than in 
America? Walk into the E-oyal Exchange in the afternoon 
just before four o'clock, and you could be shown numbers of men 
who could do — if they thought it worth the while — everything 
that Vanderbilt has done, twice over. Look at Liverpool. Look 
at Manchester. Are not men of colossal fortunes to be found 
there ? Is there anything in the air or the institutions of these 
towns to prevent men becoming possessors of incomes that are 
reckoned by tens of thousands ? Possibly not : but there is some- 
thing in the air or the institutions of the country of which these 
towns are a fraction that prevents these men living as becomes 
the creators of stupendous fortunes by their own industry. Your 
men of rank here — your makers of millions for themselves, and 
tens of millions for the country — too often spend their time, 
their intellect, their labor, in order that they may be able to 
take rank among a class of men who occupy their present position 
in virtue of what was done for them by some broad-shouldered 
adventurer, who, fortunately for them, lived eight hundred years 
ago in Normandy. Those who ought to be the Yanderbilts of 



60 LONDON DAILY NEWS. 

England would shrink from employing tlieir wealth in the mag- 
nificent manner adopted by their American friend. They would 
dread the efi'ect of making any unusual display, which would 
surely subject them to the reproach of being millionaires and 
parvenus. Here is the great difi'erence between the two countries. 
In England a man is too apt to be ashamed of having made his 
own fortune, unless he has done so in one of the few roads which 
the aristocracy condescend to travel by — the bar, the church, 
or the army. And, if he is vulgar enough not to be ashamed of 
himself, his wife and children make amends, by sedulously avoid- 
ing everything which can put other people in mind of their 
origin. It was thought something superhumanly heroic in Sir 
Robert Peel to confess that he was the sou of a cotton-spinner, 
although everybody knew it. Persons who have perused the 
biography of Mr. Pendennis will remember how the gifted and 
hard-working father of that gentleman looked back on his long 
and useful career in the medical profession as a thing to be 
especially forgotten, and never thought himself a true man till 
he was enabled to stand in gaiters, like a true landed proprietor, 
at the gate of his miniature domain of Fair-oaks. The ancestral 
Pendennis of the medical profession is the type of English 
society. 

" Does the reader see what looms through these parallels ? 
We wish to point out, as we have pointed out before, the essen- 
tial weakness, the vicious condition, of English society. In 
precisely the same manner (although in an infinitely greater 
degree) as the English army is damaged by the ' cold shade of 
aristocracy,' so are English society and the English nation vitiated 
by the aristocratic prejudices that run through it. Between the 
cobbler who patches a shoe, and the merchant who imports the 
leather to make it, there are some three or four grades, the 
members of each of which would scorn to associate with those 
of the grade below. The merchant himself hopes that he or his 
children may ^valk at last amongst the lords of the land, and, 



LONDON DAILY NEWS. 61 

as a step to this, he takes care to have his children educated 
where they shall lose all traces of the impressions that may 
have been made upon them by those who dwell in his own circle, 
and where they may acquire the habits and customs of the world 
to which he fondly hopes they may aspire. 

" It is time that the millionaire should cease to be ashamed 
of having made his own fortune. It is time that parvenu should 
be looked on as a word of honor. It is time that the middle 
classes should take the place which is their own, in the world 
which they have made. The middle classes have made the 
modern world. The Montmorencis, the Howards, the Percys, 
made the past world, — and they had their reward. Let them 
give place to better men. It is not the strong arm which now 
founds nations, or makes them great. The work has been taken 
out of the hands of the mighty in war, and given to those who 
are strong in council. — to the- lords of the elements, to the 
tamers of the great forces of nature. These must take their 
position. They must assert it, and scorn to put up with the 
faded distinctions that formed the glory of the ruling classes 
centuries back. There are men who feel this now. There are 
not wanting, even in this country, men who know their own 
dignity too well to think that it can be increased by being trans- 
planted to another circle of society. We want the Yanderbilts 
of England to feel what they are, and to show it. We don't 
ask each of them to build a monster yacht. We do ask that 
they would assert the greatness of their own position. We do 
require that they shall do everything, by providing amply for 
education, to elevate the class to which they belong, and put it 
upon the level to which it is entitled. The middle classes of 
England are the creators of its wealth, and the source of its 
power. Let them take example from America, and not shrink 
from acting as if they knew this. If they could be brought to 
let their children become as distinguished for high mental and 
moral cultivation, by an improved system of education, as they 



62 DULWICH GALLERY. 

themselves are for their great practical knowledge, the classes 
which now virtually make the greatness of the country would 
become its actual rulers, and the only obstacles to its indefinite 
progress would be removed." 

The state of the weather is in England a never-failing topic 
of conversation among her population. This arises from its fre- 
quent changes. During our visit in London of ten or twelve 
days, we had no reason to complain; it was charming, and all 
the fine region about the city was seen to the best advantage. 
I could not be in London without a hasty visit to Dulwich, to 
take a look at my old favorite pictures, in a gallery which in 
early days seemed marvellous, and, now that I have seen other 
larger ones, still delights me ; for it contains less rubbish and 
mediocrity than almost any gallery I can mention. My admira- 
tion is always ready when 1 gaze at Rembrandt's Jacob's Dream, 
and the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, reputed to be a Guide. I 
pretend to no connoisseurship in painting, but I know that I am 
pleased with a good picture ; and I think I am never more alive 
to thought, nor more disposed to aifection, than when returning 
from a capital collection of paintings. 

I cannot omit to speak of the pleasure which we experienced 
in meeting with our friend Mr. Thomas Colley Grattan, who 
was formerly Her Majesty's consul at Boston. This gentle- 
man, so well known by his charming works of fiction and his 
admirable social qualities, is now resident in London, enjoying 
the finest health, and, as usual, the object of warm attachment 
to his numerous friends. The services which this gentleman 
rendered to his country during the period in which he repre- 
sented her in Massachusetts were most important; and to his 
kindness and humanity many a stranger in a strange land has 
been indebted for substantial, valuable aid, and judicious advice. 
England never had a more valuable representative in our country 
than Mr. Grattan. 



A QUICK TRIP TO LEIPSIC. 6S 

I fear that the ladies would hardly forgive me if I should not 
say that they experienced much enjoyment in a visit to Madame 
Tussaud's great Museum of notables in wax. Indeed, this is a 
wonderfully curious place, and it grows better worth a visit every 
year. Here is the noble old warrior, the late Warden of the 
Cinque Ports, sleeping that rest which knows no awakening till 
the last great trumpet sound. Here, too, is Napoleon's camp- 
carriage ; and a most comfortable one it is too ; it was captured 
at "Waterloo. I cannot mention a hundredth part of the groups 
and individuals here to be seen. The Royal Princes of Eng- 
land look like pretty children. We were pleased with Shaks- 
peare in his youth, bluff Harry and his six wives. Madame 
Tussaud is herself represented as in sleep, her bosom gently 
heaving at intervals, and an old man at the end of the couch 
looking on with great attention through his spectacles, slightly 
moving his head, as if in a meditative mood ; a woman, brushing 
by the old man's coat, turned round to apologize ! Here, too, 
was a superb Mosaic ta'ble offered for sale. On its surface was 
Napoleon and his twelve marshals. Some of the young folks 
visited the Chamber of Horrors. But we see too much of horror 
in every-day life to feel any great enjoyment in a retrospect of 
the terrible in a vast aggregate ; and so let this go by. 

I ought to mention that while we were in London Mr. Allen 
left us to take a hasty run to Leipsic, where he had a son in one 
of the best schools of that city. He had not seen his boy for 
three or four years, and parental affection, aided by rail-cars 
and steamboats, carried him to Germany and back in four days ; 
and we had the pleasure to welcome his son as a new member of 
our party, at least till our return from Russia to Copenhagen, 
when he would return to his studies. The presence of Mr. Wil- 
liam y. Allen was not only a great addition to the happiness of 
his parents, but was felt to be a pleasure by all on board. A 
right-minded youth, sensible and accomplished, he was always 
agreeable, and disposed to gratify his friends and acquaintances ; 
6 



64 VISIT TO NETLEY ABBEY. 

and his perfect knowledge of tlie German language often proved 
useful to us in many ways whilst we were at the North. 

On our return to Southampton, we at once addressed ourselves 
to excursions to Netley Abbey and the Isle of Wight. The 
abbey is the great lion of the neighborhood : and, like most of 
the ecclesiastical ruins of England, it remains a witness to the 
taste of its founders, who rarely neglected to select sites of 
extraordinary beauty for conventual purposes. The road is 
short, but pleasant. It leads over a fine wooden bridge, by the 
old Roman Clausentum. Noble residences and charming lodge 
cottages are in sight, and fine views are obtained of Southampton 
and its water. Before reaching the ruins, we passed the pretty 
village of Weston, of which delightful spot Miss Mitford has 
written so sweetly : 

" Wo might as soon describe a dream, 
As tell where falls each golden beam ; 
As soon might reckon up the sand. 
Sweet Weston, on thy sea-beat strand. 

As count each beauty there. 
Hills which the purple heath-bell shield^ 
Forest and village, lawn and field. 
Ocean and earth, with all they yield 

Of glorious or of fair." 

The Netley Hotel is a pretty Elizabethan erection, and from 
this point the first view is obtained of the abbey. Although 
the vicinity of Southampton is not characterized by any very 
bold or romantic scenery, having neither crag nor rocky moun- 
tains, yet it is full of quiet beauty, and has for ages attracted 
the invader, pirate and merchant. At a very early period it 
captivated the religious of the Catholic Church, and here they 
selected a home for worship and retreat. Romans, Norwegian 
sea-kings and Danes, all settled down f.t Southampton ; and 
Canute made it his great sea-port, and the city of Winchester, 
close by, was his capital". A monastery was established on the 



HISTORICAL NOTICE. 0$ 

west bank of the Itchen, one mile and a half from Southampton, 
in 1124, by a body of Black Canons. At the beginning of the 
13th century, some Cistercian monks came from France and 
settled in the New Forest, half-way between Calshot and Hurst 
Point. Their convent they called Beaulieu. They erected a 
superb abbey, as we may judge from the few remaining relics. 
This body sent forth ' a colony, who reared the walls of Netley 
Abbey. 

The Cistercians, to whom Netley Abbey belonged, owed their 
origin to the Abbey of Citeaux, in Burgundy, and the order there 
commenced in 1098. Its spread and prosperity may be chiefly 
ascribed to the great energy of its third abbot, Stephen Harding. 
All Cistercian abbeys were dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Henry 
III. is sometimes regarded as the founder of Netley, and the 
date ascribed to its erection is 1239. At the dissolution of 
monasteries by Henry VIII., this body consisted of the abbot 
and twelve monks. 

The location is on the bank of Southampton-water, and three 
miles below the town, and nearly opposite the New Forest. It 
was formerly surrounded by terraces and fish-ponds, and the 
property was enclosed by a moat and wall, parts of which we 
found remaining. The style of architecture was the early Eng- 
lish at the period of its change to Gothic. All the principal 
arches are pointed, and the semi-circular arch is only used for 
strength and in small gateways. Netley is a fine specimen of 
the early transition style, and its leading feature was the use of 
the mullion, and slight tracery at the head of the windows. The 
abbey was built of stone from Purbeck, in Dorsetshire, and Caen, 
in Normandy. The dimensions of the abbey are two hundred 
and eleven feet in length, fifty -seven wide, one hundred and sixty 
at the transepts, and from ground to the top of the gables eighty 
feet. The impression produced on entrance is one of deep awe 
and reverence. The side walls present a long perspective of 
thick ivy, and the gray tops form a noble contrast of color. On 



66 REV. DR. KREBBS. 

tte ground are ruins of the groined roof and various remains Ox 
the formed domestic apartments — for at the dissolution the build- 
ing was secularized. I have no time to describe the exquisite 
beauty of the aisles, the south transept, which is in better preser- 
vation than any other portion of the edifice ; nor can I do more 
than mention the east aisle of this transept, which constitutes the 
Ladye Chapel. 

The chancel is a spot where I could linger long, and fancy the 
solemn processions to the choir and altar during the three centu- 
ries in which, I doubt not, earnest and devout worship marked the 
services of good men, who, having sung the song of the mass on 
earth, are now singing the song of Moses and the Lamb in 
heaven. I do not believe that, in abjuring the errors of an 
idolatrous and apostate community, we are justified in denying 
that she has had the truly good and pious in her communion. A 
multitude, I love to think, have, in dark ages, made their way 
home to Zion with songs, and the ministrations of monks and 
friars may have been means of grace and imparted hopes of glory. 
All this I can cordially believe, whilst I regard the existence of 
Popery as one of the deadliest curses to the race, and anticipate 
its overthrow as the loveliest vision which the fulfilment of God's 
promises to his church is about to unfold, in answer to the 
prayers of the saints on earth and the redeemed in heaven. 

The east window was greatly admired by all our party. Amid 
its mutilations, the great mullion and the circumference remain ; 
and, festooned as it is with ivy, it fastens the eye of the be- 
holder. I have never seen more glorious masses of ivy, nor as 
many wall-flowers, as at Netley. Yet, I am forced to say, that 
this abbey will not bear comparison, for local beauty and archi- 
tectural grandeur, with my favorite Tintern. 

As we were making the inspection of these venerable ruins, a 
larg3 party drove up to the gateway, and we were all of us de- 
lighted to meet with our excellent friend, the Rev. Dr. Krebbs, 
of New York, who, with his party, had that morning landed at 



REV. ALEXANDER MACLAREN. 67 

Portsmouth from a packet-ship ; and, with true American go- 
ahead energy, here they were, the same day, sight-seeing ; having 
taken the rail to Southampton, and commenced doing up England 
by a visit to Netley. Dr. Krebbs was in the pursuit of health; 
and it was a very pleasant thing for him to meet in the abbey 
with his own family doctor, "the beloved physician," Dr. Linsly. 
Here I may observe that our good doctor met in London with 
several of his patients, and rarely have I seen more cordial 
greetings than were exchanged. A warmer heart, full of sym- 
pathy for all the sorrows of the afflicted, never beat in human 
breast than in 'this excellent man, who, I imagine, must have 
been sadly missed by his numerous friends. 

Several of our friends made an excursion to the Isle of Wight, 
visiting Cowes, Ryde, and Osborne House, the marine villa of 
Queen Victoria. 

Others of us spent the day at Southampton, attending divine 
service. When in London, I had been strongly advised to hear 
the Rev. Alexander Maclaren, who was spoken of as an excel- 
lent preacher. I therefore determined to attend his meeting- 
house in the morning. It is known as Portland Chapel, and is a 
small and plain building, and very unlike what a Baptist church 
would be in such a town in America. The congregation was 
plain, and the house not quite full. Mr. Maclaren took his text 
from the 25th Psalm, 14th verse : " The secret of the Lord is 
with them that fear him," &c. I hardly know how to express 
my admiration of this discourse, or of the manner in which the 
entire service was conducted. I have heard Hall, and Chalmers, 
and Jay, Hamilton, Cummings, Noel, and other great preachers 
in England ; but I do not remember that I ever listened to a 
more impressive sermon. Mr. Maclaren is a Scotchman, of pre- 
possessing appearance, and his manners in the pulpit are natural 
and dignified. I have certainly heard nothing in England that 
is at all equal to this gentleman's oratory ; and then, aside from 
the attraction of manner, the reasoning was close and the per- 
6# 



68 SERVICES OF THE SABBATH. 

oration as pathetic and earnest as I can imagine to be possible,!. 
Dr. Krcbbs fully coincided in my estimate of the service. 

After service, I was invited to ofl&ciate in the evening ; but I 
felt too desirous to enjoy another gratification in listening to 
such instructions. The members of our party, too, vvere very 
anxious to attend again upon the service ; and, with quite an 
addition to our number, we were among the evening worshippers. 
I now found the chapel crowded, and it was with much difficulty 
that we were scattered round. The congregation, too, was of a 
very superior class of hearers to that I had seen in the morning ; 
and I felt sure that there were representatives from various con- 
gregations in the town. An American, who has never been in 
England, cannot understand the light in which Congregation- 
alists, Presbyterians, Baptists and Methodists, are regarded by 
the established church and its adherents. Talents, social worth, 
even wealth, seem to be regarded as nothing unless they are 
placed upon the altar of uniformity. The sermon of the evening 
was founded upon Psalms 8: 5, — "Lord, what is man," &c. 
The audience seemed to me held in a state of almost breathless 
silence and attention. The hold of the preacher on his hearers 
appeared to be like that of a prophet who had brought a mes- 
sage from " the Holy One." The imagery was grand, and was 
in the lips of a master in Israel ; and we all felt the force of 
the preacher's subject, — The Dig7iity of Ma?i. But, when he 
described man's apostasy and ruin, no one could fail to ex- 
perience the emotions of Job, who exclaimed, " I abhor myself 
in dust and ashes." We all of us retired from that humble 
sanctuary expressing the earnest wish that such a preacher 
might have a more fitting si^here for labor. And yet I know not 
that this is right. In the great gathering-day, I doubt whether 
any preacher of the gospel will feel that in this world his field 
of occupation was too limited ; while thousands will lament the 
extent of their responsibility, and will mourn over their omis- 
sions and short-comings in duty. 



CHAPTER VI. 

JUNE 13, THE BANQUET AT SOUTHAMPTON CARD OF INVITATION AP- 
PEARANCE OF TOWN VICTORIA ROOIMS MAYOR DINNER ACCOUNT 

OF PROCEEDINGS AND SPEECHES IN THE HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT 

EXCURSION OP THE NORTH STAR, WITH THE MAYOR AND INVITED 

GUESTS, ROUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT DINNER ON BOARD ACCOUNT 

TAKEN FROM THE HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT. 

I STATED, in my notice of our days in London, tliat a deputa- 
tion from Southampton had proffered Mr. Yanderbilt an invi- 
tation to an entertainment given by the citizens, and that the 
honor was accepted. On our arrival at Southampton, we found 
the streets placarded with notices of a public entertainment at 
the Victoria Rooms ; and a very superbly-engraved card, in gilt 
letters, with a fine likeness of the North Star in the centre, 
surrounded by gilt flags and the arms of Southampton, was ad- 
dressed to each member of the party. As a memorial of the 
voyage, I annex . the card of invitation which I received on the 
occasion : 

THE MAYOR, 
MERCHANTS AND TRADERS OF SOUTHAMPTON, 

Request the pleasure of the Rev. Dr. and Mrs. Choules' company at a 

Dejeuner, on Monday, 13 June, 1853, at the Royal Victoria 

Assembly Rooms, in honor of the visit of 

COMMODORE VANDERBILT, 

In his splendid Steam Yacht North Star. 
At 3 o'clock. 

Monday, the 13 th of June, was a most delightful day ; and 
when we came on deck we found the flags of the shipping in 



•^ VICTORIA ROOMS — RECEPTION. 

dock all gayly waving to the breeze, and noticed banners from 
the hotels and public buildings, while the church-bells were ring- 
ing merry peals of cheer and gladness. Everything denoted 
mirth and holiday, and our feelings were somewhat peculiar when 
we felt that all this was a matter in which we were personally 
concerned, and was intended for the honor of our ship, her 
owner, and our country. 

At twD o'clock r. m., carriages were on the dock, which had 
been most politely sent by the committee of arrangements, to 
convey the party to the Koyal Victoria Rooms, the scene of 
civic hospitality. The streets were full of spectators, and bells 
were pealing out sweet melody, as English parish bells alone can 
do it. On arriving at the Rooms, we were courteously received 
by the gentlemen in waiting, and were escorted through a fairy 
scene of winding stairs, all covered with evergreens and flags, 
into the saloon of reception, where we were presented to Mr. 
Lankester, the Mayor, who wore his gold chain of ofiice, and by 
him were introduced to the Lady Mayoress, and a large number 
of ladies and gentlemen. The room was spacious, and opened 
upon a terrace aflFording a charming view of the water ; and I 
noticed several venerable trees, and some small pieces of artillery, 
which were more for adornment than use ; a pretty fountain off 
to the left was an ornament to the terrace. 

At three o'clock the Mayor announced that dinner was ready, 
and led Mrs. Vanderbilt to the room, followed by Mr. Yander- 
bilt and the Lady Mayoress, and the rest of the company. The 
scene that opened upon our view was exceedingly striking, and 
we all thought that we had never beheld a dining-room so elegantly 
decorated. The flags of England and the United States were 
beautifully entwined, and the entire arrangements of the room 
were as elegant as possible. The tables were superbly arranged, 
and presented a fine display of plate, whilst the entertainment 
itself was of the richest character. The presence of nearly a 



THE BANQUET. 71 

hundred ladies gave a charm to the occasion, and afforded us 
additional pleasure. 

I think I cannot do better than insert in this place the account 
of the banquet as recorded in the Hampshire Independent of 
Saturday, June 18, — a very excellent liberal paper, edited by 
my valued and eloquent friend, Mr. Falvey. I regard the 
description as very truthful and graphic. 

It may not be inappropriate here to remark, that whilst Mr. 
Yanderbilt has long been known to his fellow-countrymen by the 
title of Commodore Yanderbilt, — a compliment paid him as the 
veteran head of the steam navigation of the northern states, — 
yet he on no occasion used the appellation, or wished it employed. 
I allude to this, because the common use of the title in this nar- 
rative of the English press prevents my altering the phraseology. 
If anything, during the whole excursion to Europe, impressed 
me strongly as it regarded Mr. Vanderbilt's deportment, it was 
his uniform modest and dignified reserve, and avoidance of all 
pretence to ostentatious show and public notice. Often did he 
decline attentions which were pressed upon him at various points 
of our progress, and very frequently to the great disappointment 
of those who greatly wished to do him honor, and show their 
regard for his country. 

"THE AMERICAN STEAM YACHT NORTH STAR. PUBLIC BANQUET 

TO COMMODORE VANDERBILT. 

" The banquet to Commodore Yanderbilt, by the merchants and 
traders of Southampton, in acknowledgment of the compliment 
paid to this port as the high road between England and New 
York, in selecting it for his visit, and of the great courtesy shown 
to the public by throwing open his splendid yacht for general in- 
spection, came off at the Yictoria Rooms on Monday, with an 
idat which has never been surpassed by any previous entertain- 
ment of the kind that has taken place in this town. Of all tho 



72 DECOKATION OF THE SALOONS. 

fraternal gatherings which have, of late years, characterized our 
port, none have gone beyond this one, either in point of interest, 
or the excellent and satisfactory manner in which the whole of 
the arrangements were carried out. The banquet took place at 
the Victoria Ptooms, and, notwithstanding the short time neces- 
sarily allowed for preparation, about two hundred persons, 
inclusive of the distinguished party of American guests, assem- 
bled on the occasion. 

*' The decoration of the room was assigned to Mr. Triggs, and 
most ably did he perform his task. Flags of all nations, in which 
the English and American colors, of course, were prominently 
displayed, hung round the room, which, added to the excellent 
effect produced by the peculiar ornamentation of the orchestra, 
and the graceful intermingling of wreaths and bouquets of flowers, 
a large floral star being suspended from the centre of the ceiling, 
rendered the appearance of the room, as soon as the doors were 
thrown open to the company, that of a large fairy bower. In- 
deed, we never saw the Victoria Rooms so beautifully decn-ated 
on any previous occasion. A handsome collection of green and 
hot-house plants and flowering shrubs was gratuitously sup- 
plied by Mr. William Rogers, sen., from his old-established 
nursery at Red Lodge and his floricultural establishment in the 
High-street, which were arranged by Mr. Sawyer, and had a 
most agreeable effect in connection with the other decorations of 
the room. 

" The lower room was set apart as a reception room, wherein 
the guests and visitors generally were received, on their arrival, 
by the Mayor and Mayoress ; and we need hardly say that Com- 
modore Vanderbilt and his family received a hearty welcome on 
their arrival. The day being beautifully fine, the company prom- 
enaded the grounds till the banquet was announced to be ready, 
which, together with a suspension of lines of flags between the 
trees and the balconies, and the performances of a capital brass 
band which was stationed on the green, drew crowds of specta- 



THE COMPANY PRESENT. 78 

tors along the western shore road, which runs in front of the 
grounds, bj whom the gay and exhilarating scene ajopeared to be 
much enjoyed. In the banqueting-room a full and highly effi- 
cient quadrille band, under the direction of Mr. F. Targett, 
occupied the orchestra ; and a party of vocalists from London, 
consisting of Mr. Kansford, Mr. Ransford, jun., and Miss Hans- 
ford, lent their powerful aid to the general harmony of the festive 
gathering. 

"The Mayor of the borough (J. Lankester, Esq.) presided with 
great ability, supported, right and left, by the American guests, 
who comprised Commodore Vanderbilt and lady, D. B. Allen, 
Esq., and lady, Gr. A. Osgood, Esq., and lady, W. K. Thorne, 
Esq., and lady, Horace Clark, Esq., and lady, Dr. Linsly and 
lady, N. B. Labau, Esq., and lady, D. Torrence, Esq., and lady, 
W. H. Vanderbilt, Esq., Jun., and lady, Master Gr. W. Vander- 
bilt, Miss Vanderbilt, Miss Thorne, Mr. W. Allen, Capt. A. 
Eldridge and lady, Bev. Dr. Choules and lady, and Mrs Cross. 
Amongst those present we also noticed Mr. Deputy Bennoch 
(from London), the Mayoress, Mr. Alderman Andrews and lady, 
Mrs. Croskey, the Bev. J. W. Wyld, Mr. Alderman Palk and 
lady, Mr. Alderman Allen, Mr.^lderman Tucker, Mr. Alderman 
Bienvenu, Mr. Sheriff Aldridge; Councillors Blatch, Graham, 
Copeland, Scovell, Borrett, Degee, Buchan, Davies, Brinton; 
Capt. Peacock, Mr., Mrs. and Miss Mayes, Mr. and Mrs. Pegler, 
Mr. and Mrs. H. J. Buchan, Mr. Falvey, Mr. and Mrs. T. P. 
Payne, Mr. W. Lankester, the Messrs. Sharps, Mr. and Miss 
Bandal, Miss Sharp, and many other of the leading tradesmen 
of the town and their ladies. 

*' The following letters were received in reply to invitations to 
attend the banquet : 

" ' Legation of the United States, London , 11th June, 1853. 
" ' My Dear Sir : I have just received the very kind invitation 
of the Mayor and Stewards, so obligingly forwarded by you, to 



H 



LETTERS OF APOLOGY. 



be present at a dejeuner to be given by the Major, merchants, 
and traders of Southampton, to Commodore Vanderbilt and 
family, on Monday next. 

" ' I regret exceedingly that an important engagement, made 
many days since, for Monday, must deprive me of the honor of 
being present on this interesting occasion ; and I regret this the 
more, as H. E. Mr. Ingersoll being also engaged, the American 
Legation must be unrepresented. 

" ' Having been the recipient, on more than one occasion, of 
the hospitality of your excellent Mayor and Corporation, I can 
readily anticipate how much enjoyment your guests will receive 
on this occasion, 

" ' I beg you to present my respects to his worship the Mayor, 
and accept for yourself the sentiments of kind regard with which 
" ' I have the honor to be, dear sir, 

" ' Your obliged and obedient servant, 

" ' T. B. Lawrence. 

" ' Charles E. Deacon, Esq.' 

" • 45 Portland-place, London, June llth, 1853. 
" ' Mr. Ingersoll has the honorto acknowledge the receipt of the 
kind invitation of the Mayor, merchants and traders of South- 
ampton, to a dejeuner, on Monday, the 13th of June, to receive 
Commodore Vanderbilt and family ; and he particularly laments 
that engagements, previously formed, will prevent him from hav- 
ing the pleasure of joining the agreeable and distinguished 
party.' 

«« « London, June 11th, 1853. 
" * Mr. Peabody sincerely regrets that having invited a large 
party to dinner at Blackwall on Monday, the 13th he will be 
deprived of the pleasure of waiting on the Mayor, merchants, 
and traders of Southampton on that day, according to their kind 
invitation.' 



LETTEES OF APOLOGY. 75 

" ' Jane IZtk, 1853. 
" 'My Dear Sir: May I request you to communicate to Mr. 
Blayor, and the other gentlemen who have done me the honor to 
invite me to the fete to be given in honor of your Amexican 
guests, my great regret that pressing and important business pre- 
vents the possibility of my attending. 

" ' I am, faithfully yours, 

'"A. E. COCKBURN. 

"'C. E. Deacon, Esq.' 

" ' 23 Portman-square, London, 11th June, 1853. 

" * My Dear Sir: I very much regret that it will be quite out 
of my power to avail myself of the invitation with which your 
Mayor has honored me for Monday next, to welcome Commodore 
Vanderbilt and family. I shall be in Committee all day, and in 
the evening have to watch a motion in connection with a railway 
company affecting the interests of my constituents. 

" ' I shall feel obliged to your worthy Mayor if he will kindly 
say as much on my part to the commodore, and assure him that 
I really feel vexed that I cannot be present to welcome so dis- 
tinguished a fellow-laborer in steam navigation, but that I still 
hope the opportunity may occur before he leaves Europe. 

" ' Very truly yours, 

'"B. M. WiLLCOX. 

" ' C. E. Deacon, Esq.' 

" ' Mansion House, June 11/A, 1853. 
" ' Mr. Mayor : I am requested by the Lord Mayor to say 
that he fears his engagements will render it impossible for him to 
comply with your kind invitation ; but that, if it should be possi- 
ble for him to leave town at the time, it will afford him great 
pleasure to do so. 

" ' I am, sir, your very obedient servant, 

" ' C. R. Edmonds. 
" ' The Mayor of Southampton.' 

7 



76 DINNER — TG,«_STS. 

« ' 61 Cornhill, 11th June, 1853. 

" ' Mr. Sheriff and Alderman Carter presents his compliments 
and hopes the pleasure of meeting the Mayor of Southampton 
on Monday next, the 13th inst. 

" ' Charles E. Deacon, Esq., &c. &c. &c.' 

" The dejeuner and dessert was served by Mr. Gibbs, whose 
catering gave much satisfaction to the company. The wines 
were of first-rate quality, the champagne and hock being sup- 
plied by Mr. F. Perkins, and the remainder of the wines by 
Messrs. Maber and Parker. Indeed, every department was done 
full justice to by the gentlemen to whom they were respectively 
assigned. 

" Gi-race before meat was offered by the Rev. J. W. Wyld, and 
at the close the grace, ' For these and all thy mercies ' was 
chanted by the Messrs. E-ansford in beautiful style. 

" The first toast given by the chairman was the health of the 
Queen, which was drank most enthusiastically, and followed by 
the band playing the National Anthem, the air of which was 
beautifully sung by Miss Hansford, the whole company standing 
and joining in the chorus. 

" The chairman next gave the health of Prince Albert — the 
beloved consort of Her Majesty, the patron of the arts and 
sciences, and the warm advocate of the comfort and happiness of 
the whole community. Drank with loud applause. 

" Glee — ' Where art thou, beam of light ! ' 

" The chairman, in proposing the next toast, said that, in the ex- 
ercise of their undoubted prerogative, the American nation had 
chosen a form of government different from our own, which had 
worked in an unparalleled degree, in the history of the world, 
for the welfare of that country. (Hear, hear.) They had estab- 
lished a republic, instead of a monarchy, with a president chosen 
every four years ; and under her successive presidents they had 
advanced to that state of unexampled prosperity which they now 



SPEECH OF MR. ALDERMAN LAISHLEY. 77 

enjoy. (Hear, and cheers.) They had selected men of wisdom 
and talent, equal to the exigencies of the times, to fill that high 
and honorable office ; and he gave them, with much pleasure, 
the health of ' The present President of the United States of 
America.' 

*' This toast was received with loud and long-continued cheering, 
and the whole company rose and stood during the performance 
by the band of * Hail Columbia ; ' — a mark of respect to the 
ruling head of the American nation with which Commodore Yan- 
derbilt and his friends were much pleased. 

" Mr. Alderman Laishley rose to propose the next toast. He 
said he most sincerely and heartily congratulated the Mayor on 
his being honored with an opportunity, during his tenure of office, 
of entertaining as his guest so distinguished and worthy a repre- 
sentative of the American people. He rejoiced that these occa- 
sions of mutual good feeling and fellowship arose, from time to 
time. The people of Southampton had not forgotten, nor would 
they soon forget, when, for the first time in the history of their 
ancient town, there floated on our waters that noble specimen of 
the naval force of the United States, the St. Lawrence, in 1848, 
commanded by one of her most gallant sons, whose dignified 
bearing, whose courtesy and kindness, as well as that of the offi- 
cers under his command, and the orderly conduct of the crew, 
made an impression, not only on the corporation, but also on the 
inhabitants of the town at large, which neither time nor distance 
would be able to efi"ace. (Loud cheers.) And then there was the 
recollection of the second visit of that noble ship to our port on 
her mission of peace, bearing the contributions of that enterpris- 
ing people to the World's Exhibition. True, compared with tho 
show and the tinsel of some of those exhibited by the old states 
of Europe, they were apparently modest and unpretending, and 
at first rather excited a smile that they should have travelled so 
far only to go back again ; but, as day succeeded day, and weeks 
and months elapsed, they excited the attention of the practical 



T8 SPEECH. 

and philanthropic, the ingenious and inventive, — and what was the 
result ? Why, that amidst that world of competitors they carried 
off some of the highest prize,?, and the most distinguished honors. 
And, for this most obvious reason, that, while much that was 
glittering and dazzling was well adapted for the few, those were 
the very things which were everywhere wanting to promote and 
increase the comfort and well-being of the many. (Much cheer- 
ing.) Nor could they allow such an occasion as that to pass by 
without a renewed expression of their admiration of the gallant 
commander of that ship — on that occasion Captain Sands — 
and the distinguished officers under his command ; long might 
they live in the enjoyment of every good, an honor to their coun- 
try, and a blessing to the world ! For the visits of that noble 
vessel to this port they were indebted to the exertions and good 
opinion of a gentleman whom they all highly esteemed, and whose 
absence that evening was deeply regretted ; he meant Mr. Cros- 
key, the United States consul, who had so long and so honorably 
represented that government at this port. (Applause.) And, now 
they were most unexpectedly and happily favored by the visit of 
one of the most enterprising, successful, generous, and large- 
hearted men of that extraordinary j)eople, — one who, having, as 
he was informed, embarked a large amount both of capital and 
skill in the vastly-growing commercial interests of his country, 
had lived to see his public spirit, his gigantic intellect, his scien- 
tific attainments, rewarded with a success rarely, if ever, sur- 
passed in that or in any other country. (Cheers.) The people of 
Southampton might indeed well be proud of the distinction thus 
conferred upon them. He (Mr. Laishley) could well imagine how 
intense the interest felt by the gallant commodore and his amiable 
family, as they rounded the old Castle of Calshot, to find themselves 
steaming up that very river in a yacht, the magnificence of which 
was perhaps unequalled in the world, down which, in 1620, the Pil- 
grim Fathers, their honored ancestors, started in their frail bark 
of one hundred and eighty tons burden, for their distant and un- 



SPEECH. If 

known destination. (Hear, hear.) Talk about warriors and 
diplomatists; these were the men, wherever they were found, who 
were nobl}'' and successfully contributing to make the world one 
country and man one family (loud cheers), — men, upon whom 
Providence having smiled, had not only the power to get wealth, 
but the heart to diffuse it. It was by colossal intellects such as 
these that the pathway of the great deep was rendered not only 
safe and easy, but attractive and inviting too ; and that, not only 
to the hardy sons of the soil, the muscle and sinew of the human 
race, but to the gentleman, the scholar, the man of- literature and 
science — nay, to ladies, too, of education and station, and even 
of these some of the most fragile, and sensitive, and delicate, as 
they saw that evening, inducing them, without hesitation or ap- 
prehension, to visit lands the most distant, and people often the 
furthest removed from all their habits. 

" Bad sailor as he was, a look at that magnificent vessel, so 
snugly berthed within their docks, would • almost lead him to 
imagine that a voyage in her, at any time, and to any part of 
the world, would be nothing else than an occasion of pleasure, a 
very holiday festivity, on the spacious deck of which the voyager 
might breathe the pure air as freely, and, no doubt, often as 
plentifully, too, as he pleased, or unite with his fellow-travellers 
JA recreation and amusement — by day. beholding the wonders of 
ihe deep, and by night admiring the garniture of the heavens. 
(Applause.) In the superb saloon — a compartment which would 
not discredit the palace of Britain's queen — he might converse 
with authors of every age, and partake of the luxuries of every 
clime, assured, whether engaged in the one or the other, that, 
under the direction of the gallant commodore, his officers and 
crew, he was being safely wafted to his desired haven. It was 
only to gaze for a moment or two upon that noble specimen of 
marine architecture, to see, and to feel, too, that, as to the age 
in which they lived, it was, as to the discoveries of science and 

the inventions of art, the product, the flower, the cream, of all 

7* 



80 SPEECH. 

the ages past and gone. ' Nobody,' said the illustrious Prince 
Albert, some time since, ' can doubt for a moment that we are 
living at a period of wonderful transition, tending to that great 
end to which all history points — the realization of the unity of 
the human race.' Why, all that was wanting was, that men of 
all nations and kindreds should thus meet together, see each 
other, and talk together, to know, and to feel, too, that they were 
children of the same common Father — a world of brothers, in- 
tended to be drawn together by mutual interests and sympathies, 
instead of being divided and dissevered by mutual jealousies and 
antipathies. (Loud and prolonged cheering.) Who could estimate 
the effect which in a few years must be produced on the intel- 
lectual, the moral, the religious and the social condition of the 
world, by the rapidly increasing intercourse of the sons of man ? 
By these means it would be that both the geographical and po- 
litical barriers which from age to age had separated nation from 
nation — barriers which had rendered them, not only strangers, 
but enemies to each other — were being daily broken down and 
demolished. National prejudices and antipathies were every- 
where giving way, as opposed alike to the best interests of man, 
and to all the institutions of the Almighty. How terse and how 
truthful were the remarks of one of the earlier Presidents of the 
American Union — he believed it was Mr. Jefferson : — ' We, 
the Americans,' he said, ' ought, above all things, to cultivate 
the most friendly alliance and brotherhood with Great Britain, 
because she can do us more harm than any other nation ; and 
she ought, above all things, to cultivate the same friendly feeling 
towards us, because we can do her more good than any other 
people.' Hence, how important that, in accordance with the 
toast he had the honor to propose, all the deliberations of her 
Majesty's ministers and the statesmen of England and America 
should tend to promote the welfare of mankind and the civiliza- 
tion of the world ! But these gratifying reiinions, these friendly 
greetings, this social, happy intercourse, of the people of differ- 



SPEECH OF HIS HONOR THE MAYOR. 81 

ent and distant nations, would tend far more to cement and ren- 
der permanent and enduring the bonds of universal brotherhood, 
than all the diplomacy of the one country or the other. (Hear, 
hear.) The toast he had to propose for their acceptance was — 
' Her Majesty's Ministers, and the Statesmen of England and 
America : May ail their deliberations tend to promote the wel- 
fare of mankind, and the civilization of the world.' 

" ' Rode's Air,' with variations, was then sung by Miss Kans- 
ford, and loudly applauded. 

" The Mayor said he now came to the toast of the day (ap- 
plause), and, as usual, Mr. Laishley had so taken the wind out 
of his sails that he had left him little to say. But he remem- 
bered that he had at that moment sitting at his right hand one of 
the merchant princes of America (hear, hear), — a gentleman 
who owed his position entirely to his own industry, perseverance, 
and extensive knowledge of mankind. He had ever been an 
enemy to all monopoly, and that was the foundation of his great 
success. (Applause.) His aim had always been to abolish all mo- 
nopolies, and so he had created the important position which he 
now occupied in America. And, then, look at his family ! (Loud 
cheers.) He was not, like many of our anchorites, contented 
with amassing a large sum of money, but he had brought up a 
large and interesting family. (Hear, and cheers.) Commodore 
Yanderbilt was the largest steamboat proprietor in the United 
States ; and now, as a sort of frame to the picture, he had 
brought his splendid steam yacht into the Southampton waters, 
to show them what the Americans could do in the art of steam-ship 
building. (Loud applause.) He (the Mayor) was not going, on 
that occasion, to talk about the port of Southampton, but he could 
not help thinking that the commodore had shown singular good 
sense in bringing his yacht to this port. (Laughter and cheers. j 
The position of Commodore Vanderbilt in America was equal to 
that of any of the ducal houses in Great Britain. (Hear, hear.) 
He was the proprietor of large building establishments, and em- 



82 MR. vanderbilt's reply to the toast. 

plojed more men than any other person in America. There 
must, then, be something in such a man (loud cheers), and he 
hoped that his career would be followed up for many years yet 
to come. The example he set showed to persons in this and 
other countries what might be done by industry, energy and per- 
severance, without being born to inherit fortune and wealth. 
(Applause.) He gave them, as a toast — ' Commodore Vander- 
biit : May every happiness accrue to himself and family during 
his interesting voyage, and every success attend all his spirited 
enterprises.' The toast was drank with enthusiastic applause, 
renewed again and again. 

" Band — ' The Star-Spangled Banner.' 

" Commodore Vanderbilt (whose rising was the signal for re- 
newed rounds of cheering) said : — Ladies and gentlemen, I am 
glad to see you. It affords me sincere pleasure to make your 
acquaintance. It shows that we are all one people (hear, hear), 
and I hope that, by the power of steam, our common countries 
will be so bound together that no earthly power can separate us. 
(Loud applause.) Since we landed in your beautiful town, we 
have made a hasty race over part of Her Majesty's dominions : 
and, were I able to express the gratification we have experienced 
in passing through the country and your town, and the interest 
we feel in all your citizens that we have had the happiness to meet, 
I am fearful you would construe it into an attempt to make a 
speech. But I must refer that task to my friend Mr. Clark, who 
will address you much better than I can possibly do. 

" The Mayor jocularly remarked that no one could question the 
right of the worthy Commodore to call on a gentleman to whom 
he had given one of his daughters to act as his substitute, and 
he was sure the company would listen with pleasure to Mr. Clark 
one of the Commodore's sons-in-law. (Applause.) 

" Mr. Clark received a hearty welcome, and, when the applause 
had subsided, spoke as follows : — Ladies and gentlemen, I rise 
iu obedience to the call made upon me by the gentleman whom 



MR. H. F. CLARK'S SPEECH. 83 

you are pleased this day to honor. As a member of his family, 
as an individual privileged with this opportunity of meeting the 
gentlemen and ladies of England, I should have been glad to 
have remained in silence, gratified with your magnificent hospi- 
tality. But, when I recollect that the honorable gentleman from 
whom you have just heard a few words sustains to us one of the 
most sacred relations on earth (hear, hear), — that we have re- 
ceived from his hearth those who are the partners of our lives 
(hear), — that he, like your own illustrious admiral, expects every 
man on whom he calls to do his duty (great cheering), — when I 
remember these things, and the obligations we owe to him and 
to you for the honor you have done him, I feel that it would be 
out of place in me to refuse to respond to his call. We came 
from our homes in the far west, neither hoping nor expecting to 
receive such princely honors as those which you have conferred 
upon us. Commodore Vanderbilt constructed a steam yacht in 
accordance with his tastes, and at considerable expense, and in- 
vited us to visit, with him, this glorious land — the birth-place of 
our fathers. (Loud cheers.) If it has so happened, or shall so 
happen, that you find in this yacht anything to merit or receive 
your approbation, — about her construction anything tending to 
advance the general improvement of the age, and the growing 
commerce of the world, — Mr. Vanderbilt is already amply com- 
pensated. (Hear, and cheers.) His paramount object, in this visit, 
was our improvement and our pleasure, and to that he has amply 
contributed ; and the reception which he and his family have re- 
ceived on the occasion has been all that we could have asked, and 
much more than we could have anticipated. We left our homes 
in the far west, after taking farewell, for a season, of all our do- 
mestic pleasures and ties there left behind us, — a few days of 
unalloyed pleasure, passed in contemplation of the works of the 
Great Creator on his broadest and most glorious field, — a few 
nights of calm repose, undisturbed by danger or fear, — and, lo ! 
your magnificent shores burst upon our view. (Much cheering.) 
We had heard of your generous hospitality, which we are now 



84 MR. CLARK'S SPEECH. 

enjoying. We had heard of your beautiful river, of the charming 
landscape scenery which surrounds you, and of your port, which 
oifers its great advantages to the commerce of the world. ^Hear, 
and cheers.) We had been told of your salubrious climate, and 
the unexampled growth of your city. We were, therefore, pre- 
pared for what we have seen. But when we arrived on a fine 
sunny morning, — when your beautiful river first opened to our 
view, — we little thought, till we so soon experienced it, that we 
should so truly find ourselves at home. Everything around us 
here looks like home. (Loud cheers.) Perhaps you have never 
visited New York, though but a short distance across the Atlan- 
tic. In its natural position it bears a strong resemblance to the 
great and ancient city in which I now stand, and from whose 
inhabitants we have received such kind and generous-hearted 
attention. The city of New York stands at the confluence of 
two vast and mighty rivers, whilst directly in front, to guard its 
commerce from the storms of the ocean, lies Staten Island, 
which your honored guest has enriched by his enterprise, and 
adorned by his taste. (Great cheering.) There lies New York, 
ofiering its noble harbor to the whole world, with one hand 
grasping the east, and another the west. Thus, also, do you lie 
at the confluence of two rivers, and in front, not our Staten 
Island, but your most beautiful isle, — the Isle of Wight, — to 
shield your commerce from the storms of the ocean, and to fur- 
nish you with the flowers of early spring. Have we not, I ask, 
a right to feel ourselves at home ? (Enthusiastic cheering.) We 
have not been treated as strangers, and we do not feel ourselves 
to be strangers. (Hear, hear.) We have one common origin. 
We speak one common language. We are all engaged in one 
common cause — the improvement of mankind. The English is 
our mother tongue ; our ears are attuned to its melodies, and we 
know no other. (Renewed applause.) Those who suppose that 
we are a difi'erent race X)rget that we are all one and the 
same people, and but one and the same. Your great names are 
our great names. Your past history is our past history. Your 



MR. CLARK'S SPEECH. 85 

glorious future is our hope and our pride. We sprang from you. 
We are happy thus, as if returning home, to greet you (immense 
cheering), — to visit England, the renowned empire of which it 
has been well and truly said ' that her morning drum-beat, keep- 
ing time with the hours, encircles the earth in one continuous 
strain of the martial airs of England.' We are proud of the 
ancestry from whom we claim our descent. We have stood on 
the soil which holds the sacred remains of Milton and Shaks- 
peare. (Applause.) We have stood in the halls which once 
echoed with the eloquence of a Chatham, a Fox, a Pitt, and a 
Burke. (Continued applause.) Their fame is ours, as well as 
yours. All that you can say — all that the great Anglo-Saxon 
race who inhabit England can say — is that their ancestors were 
the countrymen of those men ; and so were mine. (Hear, and 
cheers.) It was little over two hundred years ago that the May- 
flower, with her precious freight of noble men, left your beautiful 
harbor for the stern and rock-bound coast of New England, and 
from the loins of one of those men he who now addresses you 
has descended. (Hear, hear.) How are we reminded of our 
home by everything we now see about us in England ! You 
doubtless all remember that, after the Mayflower left your port, 
she was compelled to put into Plymouth to be refitted. Starting 
again, they named the place of their landing in America Plym- 
outh. Within two hundred miles of that sacred spot now stand 
Newport, Southampton and Northampton — three of the most 
beautiful of our American towns. In view of all this, and of 
the welcome as generous as is this you have given us, I did not 
feel myself at liberty to refuse the call of my friend and father- 
in-law. (Applause.) We have now stood in England, and we 
are proud of you. We glory in your prosperity and advance- 
ment as in that of a parent. And it is right that this feeling 
should be mutual. Is this the first occasion in human history 
when a son feels proud of his father, and the father has still the 
same right to be proud of his son ? (Cheers.) Where is the 



English heart that does not glory in the prosperity of his child ? 
And I tell you there is no true American heart which does not 
glory in the prosperity of his father. (Great cheering.) We 
have, I again repeat, stood in England ; we have seen your 
institutions ; we have beheld and examined, as far as the short 
time we have been here would permit, your noble and illustrious 
charities ; and we have not failed to observe the universal good 
order and contentment which pervade your people. We have 
inspected your works of art. We have not failed to notice that 
everything around you is prospering, and that the only signs of 
decay are to be found in those old structures which you are so 
proud to preserve, and which attest the glory and antiquity of 
your country. (Loud cheers.) From the time of landing on 
your shores till this hour, we have felt one universal thrill of 
-admiration, which will not subside till we again reach our homes 
in the western world. We have been struck by the permanency 
and solidity of your structures, and, whatever may be the opin- 
ions of a few amongst you and us, who will dare to revile Eng- 
land and her institutions, we say it is utterly impossible for 
anything but admiration to be the general and abiding feeling. 
The convulsions of nature may, in the long ages of the future, 
overwhelm this island ; but, so long as the world remains, so long 
will England's usefulness be felt, and her power and glory be 
known and acknowledged. (Applause.) Your respected chair- 
man has been pleased to say that we Americans have chosen a 
form of government entirely different from your own ; but in 
that opinion I take the liberty of telling him he is mistaken. 
There is a great similarity between our respective forms of 
government. Some of the most conservative of our forms are 
taken from yours. Ours is based on the power of the people, 
and yours is the same in theory and in practice. We have a 
government of checks and balances; and so have you, for what 
your Parliament adopts must be sanctioned by the queen before 
it has the effect of law, and the sceptre of your queen is power- 
less without the will of your Lords and Commons. Ladies and 



INVITATION FOR AN EXCURSION. §^ 

gentlemen, come and visit us. (Loud cheers.) A few pleasant 
days, and a few pleasant nights, will land you on our shores. 
Visit and examine our institutions ; see how the rich protect 
the poor, and the poor respect the rights and property of the rich. 
Examine our laws, and you will find the Magna Charta of your 
own King John incorporated in every State of the Union — your 
far-famed Bill of Rights grafted on our statute-books. (Loud 
and prolonged cheering.) You will feel thoroughly at home. 
We will greet you as friends, and, if you see us at home, you 
will find the sure indicia of our English origin, and you will all 
come to the conclusion that we have no right to boast of any 
superiority over you, and you of none over us. (Renewed ap- 
plause.) There is no set of institutions so perfect that the one 
cannot derive aid and improvement from the other. (Hear.) I 
have intruded much longer upon your time and patience than I 
had intended, but your kindness has sustained me. Amongst 
the blessings of Providence still in store for us, I do most sin- 
cerely hope that we may be able to cultivate still further the 
acquaintance which, under such favorable auspices, we have now 
been able to make with you. — The honorable gentleman sat 
down amidst the most enthusiastic acclamations. 

" Mr. S. Payne briefly proposed, as the next toast, ' Mrs. Van- 
derbilt and the Ladies,' which was drank with all the honors. 

" Band — 'Here 's a health to all good lasses.' 

"Duet, Mr. and Miss Ransford — 'Tell me, gentle stranger.' 
— Parry. 

" The Mayor here took the opportunity of announcing that 
Commodore Vanderbilt, with the generosity that marked his 
career, had placed his magnificent yacht at his disposal on the 
following day (Tuesday), for an excursion, to which all those 
present at the banquet would be admitted by tickets, which could 
be obtained at the town clerk's office between half-past nine and 
half-past ten on Tuesday morning. The yacht would start at 
eleven. This announcement was received with much cheering. 

" Mr. Yanderbilt, jun., ofi"ered his thanks for the reception they 



88 MR. falvey's speech. 

had given to the toast, and set the room in a roar of laughter by 
expressing a hope that, as the bump of cautiousness had always 
distinguished his father, they would allow the son to exhibit it 
also, by saying nothing more, especially as this was his maiden 
speech. He proposed the health of ' The Ladies of England : 
Noble specimens of God's handiwork.' The toast having been 
duly honored, 

" Mr. Deacon (the town clerk) acknowledged the compliment, 
and said that the ladies of England were delighted with that 
opportunity of greeting the ladies of America. 

" The Mayor said the next toast was not a political one, and 
therefore he hoped it would be drank by all. He had received a 
telegraphic despatch from Sir Alexander Cockburn, regretting 
his inability to be present. He proposed ' The Members for the 
Borough.' Drank with much applause. 

" Mr. Falvey said it was his pleasing duty to propose for their 
acceptance the next toast ; and, in doing so, he would take that 
opportunity of remarking that, from the able speech they had 
heard that day from Mr. Clark, and from others that had been 
delivered during the visit of the St. Lawrence to Southampton, 
it was very evident that the people of America, amid their other 
excellent qualities, had not neglected the cultivation of the art 
of oratory. (Cheers.) They had satisfactorily demonstrated that 
it was a popular error to suppose that men who could discourse 
most eloquently were not men of action ; because, both in the 
Congress of the United States, and even on ordinary festive 
occasions, the practical go-ahead character of our American 
brothers by no means catised the divine art that enabled Demos- 
thenes to hurl defiance at King Philip, or Cicero to denounce 
the crimes of Verres, to be neglected. (Hear, hear.) It was said, 
of old, that the wise men came from the east ; but, however that 
might be, they could affirm with truth in our own day that the 
practical and enterprising men came from the west; and, 
although they in Southampton were not so far north as to mak< 



MR. FALVEY'S speech. W 

the large and rapid fortunes that some persons did in that part 
of the country, they were sufficiently south to have their hearts 
partake in some measure of the character of their genial climate, 
and leap, as it were, with friendly and fraternal greetings to 
welcome their guests from the other side of the Atlantic. (Cheers.) 
The toast which he had to propose made a special reference to 
Washington and Franklin, — two of the great founders of the 
mighty republic of the west ; and it would not be out of place 
to mention, on that interesting occasion, when they were honored 
by the presence of so many ladies, that it was to a fond mother's 
teachings the illustrious warrior and statesman of America was 
indebted for that ardent love of truth and those lessons of pat- 
riotism that, throughout the whole of his useful life, formed the 
leading characteristics of his mind. (Cheers.) As the mariner of 
old, before the discovery of the compass, looked anxiously up to 
the north star for safety and for hope in steering his way through 
the ocean, so George Washington, amid painful and difficult 
trials, in contending for a time with factious intrigues, and even 
conspiring generals, looked only to the honor, the glory, and the 
independence of his native land, as the one great object of his 
existence. With such an example to guide them, in addition to 
their own industry and intelligence, and with the old spirit of 
the Anglo-Saxon race, the future of America would be even 
greater than its past ; and he said this not in the way of paying 
a cold and formal compliment to Commodore Yanderbilt and his 
family, but because the genius and power of his great country 
was felt and acknowledged in every part of the globe. (Cheers.) 
He begged to propose, with all his heart, the toast that had been 
placed in his hands, and to apply to the two nations of the one 
common origin the words of an American authoress : 

* Then pray we for our country, that England long may be 
The holy and the happy, and the gloriously free. 
Who blesseth her is blessed — then peace be in her walls. 
And joy in all her palaces, her cottages, and halls.' 



§d MR. LABAU'S SPEECH. 

Mr. Faivey concluded by proposing -^ * The Sons of America : 
May they ever be found worthy of their illustrious predecessors, 
"Washington and Franklin ; and may the genius and virtue of 
their many distinguished citizens continue to guide the onward 
progress of that great and flourishing people.' 

" Scotch Ballad, by Miss Ransford, — * Of a' the airts the win' 
can blaw,' — which was rapturously applauded, and a repetition 
called for and accepted. 

" Major Labau (another of Commodore Yanderbilt's sons-in- 
law), in a very eloquent address, responded to the toast. 

" Mr. Mayor, Ladies and Gentlemen : There are times when 
such is the intensity of the human feelings that the heart throbs, 
the bosom heaves, the nerves are relaxed, and the tongue almost 
refuses to perform its office. Such a time is the present, and 
such are my feelings. Standing for the first time on England's 
soil, and partaking of her numerous bounties, emotions strange 
and new agitate my soul. 

" As you, sir, have observed, — and I thank you for the 
thought, — there departed from your hospitable port, some two 
hundred years ago, a frail bark freighted with Pilgrim Fathers. 
Like Noah's weary dove, she went forth, and pursued her way 
o'er the trackless ocean. By the providence of God, a resting- 
place was found in the western world. I need not now depict 
the sufferings and trials of those fathers ; nor need I tell of their 
landing in a wilderness, the dangers they incurred, the perils 
they encountered. All is as familiar as your household history ; 
and in recounting these things I should only tell you that which 
you yourselves do know. Suffice it to say, that a colony was 
founded ; infant as it was, it grew apace. As years rolled on it 
waxed stronger and stronger, until it reached the proportions of 
a man, and now stands forth the ' Giant of the West.' 

" That giant, your progeny, now sends us, his children, upon 
a visit to our grandmother, glorious Old England ! Ay, glo* 



91 

rious Old England ! next to mine own land T love her sea-girt 
isle. I love and venerate her flag, which has ever floated high 
above the din of battle, and under which a Wellington and a 
Nelson have fought and conquered. I love to wander through 
the rich fields of her intellect, and cull from thence the gems of 
a Cowper, a Dryden, a Shakspeare, and a Milton. I love to 
wander 'mid the stars of heaven, and read their names and 
characters by the aid of a Newton and a Herschel. (Cheers.) 

" But why, let me ask, are we here ? Why are our national 
banners entwined together for the decoration of this hall ? Here 
is a result ; what, then, is the cause ? Mankind are too apt to 
take things as they are. They know results, without caring for 
causes. AVe are content to look upon and admire the running 
stream, without caring to go back and ascertain by what hidden 
mystery the bubbling water is sent up from the bosom of the 
earth. Thought is our only medium of knowledge, whatever its 
sphere or its degree. All begins and ends with thought. Why, 
then, are we here ? Has etiquette dictated this banquet ? Has 
it originated in fashion, which makes the heart cold and calcu- 
lating, causing men to live not for what they are, but for what 
they seem to be ? No, sir. The banquet is dictated by other 
causes, by higher feelings, and nobler motives. Are we not the 
same people ? Do we not speak the same mother tongue, bow 
obedience to the same principles of law, and kneel in worship 
before the altar of the same great God ? Sympathy draws us 
to each other ; unity of interest binds us together ; and one 
common cause leads us to travel side by side the rugged paths 
of life. Oar countries are both engaged in the advancement of 
civilization and science. Both labor for the amelioration of the 
condition of man ; for the freedom of the serf; for the freedom 
of the ignorant. Both strive to rend asunder the chains upon 
the conscience, the intellect, the pursuits, and the persons of 
men. Both raise up the fallen, encourage the weak and totter- 
ing, and extend powerful protection to those unfortunates whom 
8=^ 



92 MR. LABAU'S SPEECH. 

the vultures of despotism would cover and devour. Ay, here, 
as in America, may the political offender find an asylum and 
refuge, upon a soil from which the despots of Europed are not, 
cannot tear him ! (Great applause.) 

" Like assimilates with like. England and America are engaged 
in generous rivalry, each glorying in the success of the other. 
Ocean steam-navigation brings us nearer to your shores, and is 
fast tending to make the Atlantic to us a Pacific Ocean. (Cheers.) 

*' Well may we mingle around the festive board in the sincer- 
ity of friendship and brotherly love. These ' merrie meetings ' 
make us better acquainted with each other. Here, divested of 
care, the toils and troubles of life, we shine forth the natural, not 
the artificial man. Indulging in these thoughts, I have almost 
forgotten the purpose for which I arose. As an humble citizen 
of America, I respond to the sentiment, ' The Sons of America : 
May they emulate the example of their illustrious Washington 
and Franklin.' 

" Such a sentiment, coming from English hearts, pronounced 
by the lips of British freemen, and receiving the enthusiastic 
reception which Englishmen can give to that which is heartfelt 
and sincere, comes with great force. We thank you for your 
generous wish. And, though we cannot boast of possessing in 
their perfectness the godlike virtues of a Washington, or the 
plain, straight-forward simplicity and integrity of a Franklin, 
yet do we all unite in preserving that halo of glory which their 
names and deeds have thrown around our country. Through 
them have we assumed our high place in the political region, 
and, like the milky-way, whiten along our allotted portion of the 
liemisphere. It shall be our duty first to preserve inviolate that 
union which the blood of our sires has cemented together. We 
will protect it from the grasp of a foreign foe, as well as protect 
it from the suicidal hands of domestic fanaticism. We strive to 
maintain national faith and honor, pure and intact. In this, at 
least, shall we live worthy of a Washington. We strive to pro- 



MR. LABAU'S SPEECH. 0d 

mote art and science, and drive forever from our fair land igno- 
rance and .su[>Grritition. In this eh;'.ll ^ve live Ti'orthv of him who, 
Promethean-like, drew down to earth the tires of heaven, and 
made the forked lightning subservient to his genius. 

" Having done this, we extend to England the right hand of 
fellowship, and promise to stand with her in all good and great 
works in the defence of liberty, and in the maintenance of the 
religion of our fathers. It does not require the vision of a seer 
to perceive that the time will come when England and America 
must form a close alliance. The mariner sees in the cloud no 
larger than his hand danger and tempest. Such clouds are now 
seen in the political horizon. As men having at heart the good of 
our country and the cause of human kind, it behooves us to 
watch and guard. There is yet to be fought the great battle of 
nations; whether it be as against the onward crushing march 
of despotism on the one hand, or the wild, roaming and ungov- 
ernable passions of men let loose for the destruction of their 
kind on the other. How, when,. or where it shall come, no man 
knoweth ; and yet each and all of us feel, in the solemn stillness 
which pervades the earth, that the elements are gathering for 
fearful strife. Heaven's breezes bear upon their wings the groans 
of Europe's down-trodden millions. Autocrat diplomacy, which has 
for its object the plunder of the weak, is weaving around the gov- 
ernments of Europe a net-work intricate and dangerous. It is the 
modern Delilah, through whose instrumentality the institutions 
of liberty are to be shorn of their strength, and delivered over 
into the hands of the Philistines. In that hour of strife, and the 
night of horror which precedes it, let England and America be 
found together standing firm as adamant. Let England, sitting 
proudly upon the bosom of the waters, receive upon her white 
cliffs the wild waves of popular commotion, to hurl them back 
into the angry flood from whence they sprang. Ay, let our 
banners be entwined together, and defended by the dauntless 



94 ALDERMAN ANDREWS' SPEECH. 

hearts of Englislimen and Americans, whose battle-cry shall be, 
' For God, the religion of our fathers, liberty and freedom.' 

" Gentlemen, I have already trespassed too long upon your 
patience. Allow me, however, ere I close, to thank you in be- 
half of my respected father-in-law, and of our party, for your 
kindness and hospitality. We have been the recipients of your 
kindness, and we are sensible that we owe it not to any peculiar 
merit of our own, but to the fact that we are American citizens. 
As such, and as strangers, we came among you, and you send us 
hence your firm, fast friends. Upon this shoal of time have we 
met, and in the fulfilment of our destiny must again separate. 
Soon a mighty ocean shall roll between us. But distance shall 
not eflace from our thoughts the recollection of your kindness, 
nor destroy the emotion of love and respect we shall entertain 
for you. In after years we shall think of this hour, and shall 
regard it as an oasis in the desert of life's pilgrimage, around 
which memory shall love to lie lingering, 

* Like Adam near lost Paradise.' 

" In conclusion I give you this sentiment : 

" The Lion of England and the Eagle of America : May 
they hunt the foe together ; and that which the keen sight and 
fierce talons of the one shall hunt out and take hold of, shall be 
utterly destroyed by the mighty strength of the other.' (Cheers.) 

" Mr. Alderman Andrews, in proposing the next toast, said that 
during the last few years there had been so many manifestations 
of the union and good feeling subsisting between the people of 
England and America — -between New York and Southampton — 
that they seemed to be, indeed, one people and one family. (Hear, 
hear.) The St. Lawrence visited them as a war frigate, and they 
welcomed Captain Paulding and his officers as members of one 
common family. Time rolled on, and the St, Lawrence visited 
their port again, when the American people sent over in her a 
larg« freight to the Great Industrial Exhibition of 1851, and the 



CAPTAIN ELDRIDGE'S SPEECH. 95 

same hospitable reception was awarded to Captain Sands and his 
staflf of officers. And now they had another opportunity, in the 
visit, on a trip of pleasure, of the splendid steam yacht North 
Star^ the property of a noble-minded man, who had brought with 
him his interesting family. (Applause.) The qualities of this 
noble vessel had been spoken of by the whole of the press, and 
the conduct of the worthy commodore, his family, Captain 
Eldridge, and the officers, was deserving of all praise. Never 
had they experienced more courtesy and generosity than from 
all on board this fine yacht. He had to propose ' Success to 
the North Star, her commander, officers, and crew.' — The toast 
was drank, with loud and long-continued cheering. 
« Song, Mr. Hansford, — ' Old Simon the Cellarer.' 
" Capt. Eldridge said he was much obliged to them for the 
honor they had done to the toast, especially for the way in which 
it had been received. It went down as though it was good. 
(Laughter and cheers.) It was always gratifying to a man, and 
especially on such an occasion, to have his health drank so unani- 
mously, with such kind feeling. He was glad to say that he felt 
no embarrassment — he felt quite at home. (Hear, hear.) The 
reception they had experienced was a source of gratitude to 
himself, and his officers and crew, most of whom, he was proud 
to say, were the sons of gentlemen. (Hear, and cheers.) This was 
the first time he had visited Southampton; and he was much 
pleased with the port, the entrance of the docks, and the excel- 
lent accommodation affi)rded (loud cheers), — at the courtesy 
they had experienced, and the police and all other regulations 
appertaining to the docks. (Hear.) The visit of the North Star 
had created some interest, and he thought it was justly due. It 
was a noble and glorious enterprise, and he felt proud of the 
ship and the position he held in her. The commodore had con- 
ferred an honor upon him in giving him the command, and he 
thanked him for it. He was proud of him as a man, and also of 
his sons and daughters, — he loved them all. Every captain 



96 REV. J. w. 

was proud of his own ship, and he had no wish to be particular 
in this respect. (Laughter and cheers.) He thanked Mr. Andrews 
for the courtesy, kindness and hospitality, he had received at 
his house ; and he thanked them all for the honor that had been 
conferred on the gallant commodore and his party. The North 
Star was opened to the public last week, and he then hoisted the 
English flag by the side of the American, and so he hoped the 
two flags would long continue. (Loud cheers.) England and 
America, if separated, may get into difficulties, but, united 
together, they will whip the world. (Loud cheering.) 

" The Rev. J. "VY. Wyld, in proposing the next toast, said it 
had been remarked by a speaker, — one of their brethren from 
America, who had preceded him, — that we were prone to take 
up with things as they offered themselves to us, without inquir- 
ing into them, — to wander by the stream, without caring to seek 
out its source. Such a remark was naturally suggestive of the 
fact that the significance of an incident or event was materially 
connected, in our judgment, with the aspect under which it was 
viewed. Thus was it in reference to the present festivity, and 
the circumstances which had given rise to it. He could imagine 
many a listless spectator looking on the North Star yacht, now 
lying by the quay of our docks, without attaching any meaning 
to the simple circumstance that she was lying there. He could 
likewise imagine some one of those good-natured people, to be 
found in society, whose pleasure seems to consist in calling in 
question the seasonableness of the pleasures which every one else 
enjoys (hear, hear), — he could imagine some one of those good- 
natured people inquiring, ' Why so much ado about a gentleman 
and his family coming to port in their own vessel ? ' 'Is this 
a matter to be noticed by demonstrations of joy and public feast- 
ing ? ' ' What is there in such an incident to originate a 
banque^j under the auspices of the Mayor and the principal mer- 
chants and traders of the town ? ' Such inquiries as these he 
was fd ly prepared to meet. (Hear, hear.) In his humble opinion, 



97 

the arrival of Commodore Vanderbilt was associated with much 
that was highly significant, and which gave not only the founda- 
tion of reason and propriety to their present proceedings, as 
being a friendly welcome, but also as having a beneficial bearing 
on the national relationships of two great countries for the 
future. (Applause.) It was significant of the advanced state of 
the world at this time, to behold a gentleman freighting a vessel 
with those who were nearest and dearest to him on earth, and 
confidently setting out to traverse the greater half of the globe, 
and pay his respects to the chief civilized nations. (Cheers.) It 
was significant of the advanced state of science and art ; for, 
without the knowledge of the aid which there could be sum- 
moned to afford him, the practicability of his carrying out his 
purpose within a given time, and thus making a tour of recrea- 
tion thousands of miles away from home a limited episode in 
the gigantic activities which employed him in his own country, 
would never have found a place in his thoughts. It was signifi- 
cant, also, of the advancement of commerce ; for it was a man 
whose wealth had been amassed in commerce that was enabled 
thus, in his own vessel, to transport himself at pleasure to dis- 
tant shores. (Hear.) He desired, therefore, plainly to assure 
those who were guests on this occasion, that they who had invited 
them to this entertainment could give a reason for such invita- 
tion ; that they knew what they were doing ; that this festiv- 
ity was not a mere ceremonial of etiquette (hear, hear, and loud 
cheers), — not the form into which a momentary impulse of 
courtesy had shaped itself; — but a deliberate expression of sin- 
cere feeling, — a real English-hearted welcome. (Renewed cheer- 
ing.) He had seen it stated that their chief guest, Commodore 
Vanderbilt, was a ' self-made ' man. He could not under- 
stand, however, in what the peculiar force of this descriptive 
epithet consisted. It was a description which; in his humble 
judgment, belonged, as a matter of course, to all men of honor- 



-pS r.EV. J. w. wyld's speech. 

able celebrity. Divine Providence did not, at the first hand, so 
to speak, make men great, or honorable, or useful. This was, in 
a measure, left to be the work of their own prudence, industry 
and integrity. There were materials placed within their reach 
by Providence, out of which they might elaborate to themselves 
a station and a name amongst their fellow-men ; and, if these 
were judiciously and opportunely employed by them, they became 
great. (Hear.) Similar advantages and similar opportunities 
might be granted to two men of similar abilities ; but the one, 
neglecting these advantages and opportunities, and being unfaith- 
ful to his own inward monitions, passed through life unknown, 
and at length descended to the grave unmissed, unhonored and 
unsung; whilst the other, duly improving every advantage, 
wisely using every opportunity, and loyally heeding every dic- 
tate of an enlightened judgment within him, became a man whom 
a nation might be proud to call its own, and whom the admira- 
tion of the world would be ready to honor. (Applause.) In 
welcoming, then, such a ' self-made ' man amongst them to-day, 
they were also testifying their homage to the great cause of com- 
merce, with which his greatness was identified ; and, in doing 
this, their proceedings might be viewed as further including an 
unfeigned regard for the cause of civilization in general ; for 
commerce was the ofispring of peace, and in proportion as peace 
prevailed commerce was favored, and in proportion as com- 
merce was favored the mutual intercourse of mankind was pro- 
moted ; and in proportion as the mutual intercourse of mankind 
was promoted, good understandings, friendship, and true brother- 
aood amongst the individuals of our race, were fostered. (Ap- 
plause.) He had heard of a Scottish farmer, who, in the course 
of one of his morning rambles, beheld, through the mist that 
covered the valley along which he was proceeding, a figure 
approaching him, like that of a giant, brandishing a club where- 
with to smite down every living creature that might come in his 
way. Startled at this strange appearance, the farmer for a 



REV. J. w. wyld's speech. " 99 

moment paused ; but, seeing the monster continuing to advance, 
he felt his native valor instinctively urge him onward to the 
encounter. As, however, he continued to come nearer to the 
figure, and the figure came nearer to him, and the mist between 
them both began to clear away, the farmer beheld the form of 
the stranger reduced from the proportions of a giant to those of 
an ordinary man, and his terrible club turned into a moderately- 
sized walking-stick; and when at the last he actually came up 
to the said figure, he became apprized of the fact that, so far 
from its being a giant, or even a stranger, it was his own brother. 
Thus had it often happened in the history of human society. 
Men beheld each other at a distance, and through the mists of 
prejudice and ignorance, as strangers and monsters ; but, as they 
came nearer to one another, and the mists which had distorted 
their figures in the eyes of one another cleared away, they 
found themselves to be brethren to one another. (Loud cheers.) 
It was only because men were reciprocally unacquainted that 
misunderstandings and dislikes, hatred and all kinds of erroneous 
estimates, were mutually promoted. Repetitions of such a scene 
as the present were amongst the best modes of dispelling foolish 
and false feelings betwean man and man, and truly contributing 
to insure the peace of the world, and consequently the interests 
of commerce. He believed, indeed, that there might arise occa- 
sions when war was a righteous duty. (Hear, hear.) He spoke 
this guardedly, and consistently, in his judgment, with his being 
a minister of peace. He held that there might be times when it 
was incumbent on every good citizen, every true lover of his 
country, to buckle on the weapons of fight at the bidding of 
the chief magistrate, and hold himself in readiness to be disposed 
of as being set for the defence of his fatherland. (Hear, hear.) 
Yet he would observe that such a view as this regarded war as a 
horrid necessity only, on the supposition that every other method 
for vindicating right and justice had been adopted. But, alas ! 
how generally had wars been fomented by the ambition and 
9 



wo REV. J. w. avyld's speech. 

avarice of princes and rulers. Wars, as they had appeared on 
the page of history, had been the arguments of madmen, or the 
reckless staking of the welfare of thousands to serve the folly 
of one or a few. It was not the interest of the people of one 
country to quarrel with those of another, whatever might be the 
designing aims of their rulers. (Loud cheers.) Nor would they 
ever quarrel, if left to follow out the development of the com- 
mercial spirit. It was this spirit, he believed, which had, in 
times past, invariably been the reverse of blessedness to every 
community. He could not resist the impression that many of those 
who, in ancient times, were most renowned, were men of com- 
merce, and not men of war. Abraham and the other patriarchs, 
it was well known, were large sheep-owners. And, for his own 
part, he doubted not that, if we could get at the right explana- 
tion of many traditions that have come down to us from the first 
ages of the world, your traders, your men of business, would be 
found holding the chief and most important positions. What 
should hinder us from getting at the most satisfactory explana- 
tion of the story of Jason and his ' golden fleece,' by assuming 
that this Jason was one of the ' go-ahead ' men of his time, 
and, having freighted his vessel with a cargo of what might have 
been the Manchester goods of that era, he returned home with a 
sheep's skin full of gold as the result of the sales he had eflfected ? 
It was just such meetings as the present that tended to make 
the commercial spirit between England and America the bond of 
peace. The influence of such a meeting could not be calculated. 
It would not be limited to the personal feeling of those who had 
honored them as their guests that day ; it would have a wider 
range of extension, and the cordial greeting here given to one 
of the principal merchant princes of America would become 
known throughout his country, and, as often as referred to, 
would be productive of the most desirable and kindly of feelings. 
The hope had been expressed that the eagle of America and the 
lion of England would always be found hunting together. Yes, 



• EEV. DR. CHOULES' SPEECH. 101 

he trusted that they would thus hunt, in company and harmony, 
for the purpose of removing all meaner birds and beasts of pre;^ 
from the face of the earth, and for the clearing away of every- 
thing that was destructive to the world's civilization. The 
interests of England and America were the same. There was a 
family tie between John Bull and his son Jonathan, and the 
peace which was essential to its preservation was bound up in 
their commercial relationships. This, then, was the sentiment 
of the toast he was intrusted to propose — ' England and 
America : May peace and commerce long unite them.' The 
reverend gentleman was loudly cheered on resuming his seat. 

" The Rev. Dr. Choulcs, in rising to acknowledge the toast, 
was much applauded. He said : 

" I suppose that I have been called upon to respond to this 
toast on account of my relation to England and the United 
States. I am a native of England, but have been a resident in 
the American Union for thirty years. I love the land of my 
birth, and I glory in the country of my choice. No man lives 
who longs more than I do to see these great and glorious lands 
united in the bands of cordial, brotherly attachment, and I am 
glad to know that all good men in both of them participate in 
this desire ; and, if it were not for the denaturalized efforts of a 
few corrupt leaders of the press, and a handful of partisan dem- 
agogues, the feeling would be almost universal in Great Britain 
and America. Our happy country has much to enlist the warm 
affections of her citizens. Sir, America has a history of which 
we may be proud. Her founders were not children suckled by a 
she-wolf in the woods, — they were no fugitives from a ruined 
Troy ; but they were a rare race of men, reared up for a rare 
purpose. They sought what England did not then afford ; and 
they found the object of their pilgrimage, 

' A faith's pure shrine, 
Freedom to worship Grod.' 



102 REV. DR. CHOULES' SPEECH. '^ 

" Now, every nation on earth is turning to America the look 
of imploring pity ; long, long may she be the lighthouse of the 
world, — the evangelist of the nations ! (Hear, and cheers.) As 
Boon as our citizens land in England, they feel at home, thor- 
oughly at home ! We love to call England ' the old country,' 
* mother country,' and ' land of our fcithers.' What sort of 
a land should we now possess if we had a Spanish origin, a 
French descent ? Let the distracted states of South and Cen- 
tral America furnish the solution. (Hear, hear.) Americans 
claim an equal interest, as Mr. Clark has eloquently told you, 
in your Milton, Bacon, Newton, Burke, and Boyle ; these and 
Shakspeare are quite as much ours as they are yours. These 
intellectual treasures belong to us as much as they do to the 
lords of the British soil. This patrimony is ours ; and our sons 
have had their patriotism animated by careful study of the 
acts and sufferings and speeches of your Hampdens, Bussella, 
Vanes and Sydneys. Land of our fathers, and the home of a 
civilization such as our world cannot parallel ! far distant be 
the day when Americans shall cease to feel devotion at the 
shrine of thy mighty dead, and gather fresh inspiration from 
their genius, learning and virtues ! (Loud cheers.) 

" When we land in your venerable town, sir, we, too, have 
local associations of the tenderest character. We cannot forget 
that hence sailed the Mayflower and her precious freight. On 
board that ark was written the first constitution that insured to 
man the enjoyment of equal laws and full liberty of conscience. 
Probably many who saw that ship depart regarded it as a matter 
of small moment ; only the departure of a few weary men and 
women panting for a land of freedom, where they could worship 
God free from oppression and persecution. These men had small 
means, and wore plain habiliments. Thus it is in the providence 
of Grod, who often connects ultimate grandeur with apparent 
original insignificance. Newton, you know, ascended to the 
loftiest heights of science by the acquisition of the alphabet ; the 



REV. DR. CHOULES' SPEECH. 103 

Saviour of the world was once the occupant of a stable ; and 
the foundations of our holy religion were laid by a few poor fish- 
ermen. Yes, I think it probable that men, standing on your 
beautiful shores, gazed and smiled at the Mayflower as she 
departed from your waters ; but they were looking at men who 
were to found an empire of freedom, and who, soon after landing 
in a long-boat from their weather-beaten bark, kindled up a 
beacon fire which will yet enlighten the world, and carried with 
them a leaven which has yet to leaven the whole mass of suffer- 
ing humanity. (Hear, and cheers.) 

" When we land in Southampton, we cannot forget your illus- 
trious Watts, whose songs have charmed and taught our child- 
hood, animated the devotions of our fathers' sanctuaries, and 
placed notes of triumph in the lips of myriads as they have gone 
through the valley of the shadow of death. The true interest 
of Britain and the United States is to cultivate a brotherly 
regard ; our interests are identical. (Yes, yes.) 

" If Americans visit England, and Englishmen visit the 
United States, interchanging civilities and hospitalities, as we 
are now doing, no premier nor government of either country can 
ever set these great nations at war, — a game which rulers can- 
not play at when the people are wise and virtuous. (Applause.) 

" I beg leave, sir, to propose ' The health of that venerable 
lady, Mrs. Vanderbilt, the mother of your honored guest.' 

" This toast was warmly responded to by the company. 

" Commodore Vanderbilt said he had been accustomed, all 
his life, to go direct to a point; and he would therefore, • with- 
out preface, propose 'The Mayor and Corporation of South- 
ampton.' Drank, with loud cheers. 

" Glee, by the Eansford family — 'Sportive little trifler,' — 
Bishop. 

" The Mayor briefly replied, remarking that the Mayor and 

Corporation had arduous duties to perform, but such seasons as 

this amply repaid them for all their troubles and difficulties. 
9# 



104.- DEPARTURE FOR EXCURSION 

" Mr. Mayes, in a few eulogistic remarks on that gentleman's 
character and conduct since his residence in Southampton, pro- 
posed the health of ' Mr. Croskey, Consul of the United States 
of America; and prosperity to the Ocean Steam Navigation 
Company of New York.' The toast was warmly received, and 
acknowledged, in a few words, by the Mayor, on behalf of Mr. 
Croskey. 

"The toasts of ' The Town Clerk ' and 'The Press' were sub- 
sequently drank and responded to, and the company separated, 
looking forward with agreeable anticipations to a pleasant excur- 
sion on the morrow." 

"EXCURSION EOUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT AND TO SPITHEAD. 
[Taken from New Hampshire Independent.] 

" On Tuesday morning, about four hundred persons, consisting 
of the Mayor and Mayoress, many members of the corporate 
body, the principal merchants and tradesmen of the town, a 
goodly party of ladies, &c., availed themselves of the kind ofi'er 
of Commodore Vanderbilt to take a trip in the North Star ; and, 
accordingly, about half-past eleven o'clock, the gallant vessel 
steamed away from the dock-head, an excellent band on board 
playing the national anthem, and the national colors of England 
and America proudly floating in the breeze from the mast-heads. 
Several hundreds of persons had assembled on the docks to wit- 
ness her departure. The invitation-cards notified a trip to Spit- 
head, to view the Duke of Wellington, the magnificent new screw 
three-decker, and the other ships of the squadron lying at Spit- 
head ; but, after passing Calshot Castle, the party on board were 
delighted to find that the bow of the North Star was turned to 
the westward, an 1 that a trip round the Isle of Wight had been 
resolved on. The weather was fine, and the Solent and the 
Channel were perfectly calm. The magnitude of the yacht and 
the smoothness of the sea prevented much motion being felt dur» 



ROUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 105 

ing the whole of the voyage. The afternoon being beautifully 
fine and clear, the lovely and majestic scenery, for which the 
back of the Wight is so justly celebrated, was much eujoyed by 
all on board, especially by the American ladies and gentlemen, 
and a more delightful trip was never made. In passing Vent- 
nor, flags were run up the several flag-posts on shore, in compli- 
ment to the North Star, which was returned on board by dipping 
colors, and firing a succession of salutes. About four o'clock the 
North Star got to Spithead, and steamed twice through the fleet, 
thus affording the company an opportunity of seeing the Duke 
of Wellington, and the other ships of the squadron moored there. 
The fleet comprises the Duke of Wellington, 131; Ajax, 60; 
Blenheim, 60; Hogue, 58; Edinburgh, 58; Sidon, 22; and 
Odin, 16. On nearing the first-named magnificent and stupen- 
dous ship, the North Star fired a royal salute, the whole com- 
pany on board cheering, and the band playing ' God save the 
Queen.' This demonstration was replied to from the Duke of 
Wellington by cheering, on the part of the crew, who manned 
the rigging for the purpose, and dipping the ensign. The guns 
were not, however, returned, — naval etiquette preventing a 
salute in honor of a private and non-official personage. The 
sight at Spithead was a very imposing one, and, combined with 
the inspection of the lovely natural wonders ranging the coast, 
from the Needles on the west to the Culver Cliffs on the east, 
rendered this one of the most interesting and pleasant excursions 
ever made in this part of the world. 

"After leaving Spithead, the gallant yacht steered for South- 
ampton; and, during her progress up the Southampton river, 
the company assembled in the saloon, where they were briefly 
addressed by the Mayor. His worship acknowledged, on behalf 
of the people of Southampton, the great compliment that Com- 
modore Vanderbilt had conferred on them by visiting their port, 
and the kindness and courtesy of himself and family in throwing 
open to the public his yacht, — an object worthy of much curi= 



106 SPEECHES IN THE CABIN, ETC. 

ositj ; and, after dwelling on the advantages which an inter- 
change of civilities amongst individuals belonging to two of the 
greatest nations of the world must produce, he proposed three 
cheers for Commodore Yanderbilt and his family. This call was 
right heartily responded to by the company, whose cheers rung 
through the ship for several minutes. Major Labau, on behalf 
of the commodore, thanked the Mayor and inhabitants of South- 
ampton for the cordiality with which they had been received, 
reiterating the kindl}'- and fraternal sentiments which character- 
ized the speeches delivered at the banquet on the preceding day, 
and which cannot but be productive of good feeling and amity 
between the nations. The company were subsequently addressed, 
in obedience to calls made upon them, by the Rev. A. McLaren 
and F. Cooper, Esq., by which time the yacht had reached the 
entrance of the Southampton docks, where the excursionists took 
leave of their American friends, amidst the warmest expressions 
of affectionate regard and esteem. 

" During the whole of the day the greatest attention and cour- 
tesy was shown by the Americans to their numerous guests. The 
whole of the ship was thrown open to the visitors, and refresh- 
ments of every kind were served in the most lavish abundance. 
Although the number of persons on board (including the commo- 
dore and his family, the crew, &c.) could not have been much 
under five hundred, yet the great size of the ship, the splendid 
fittings and roomy arrangements of the cabin and saloons, and 
the convenient and extensive promenade afforded on the spar 
deck (nearly three hundred feet long), and other portions of the 
vessel, caused the party to appear by no means a large one. 
After dinner, the young folks repaired to the gun-deck, and had 
a joyous time in waltzing, with excellent music from the band. 
Among the visitors on this excursion were W. H.Wills, Esq., of 
Bristol, and the Rev. Mr. Gunn, of Warminster, who came on 
purpose to visit the yacht. 

"The North Star goes through the water most beautifully, and 



TEPARTUllE FOR THE BALTIC. 107 

with great speed, the macliinery working with exquisite smooth- 
ness. The two large sway-beams, working on deck at a great 
elevation, and communicating the driving-power to the ponderous 
cranks below, are a novel feature in this country, and give the 
ship a curious appearance from the distance. 

" The North Star ran alongside the dock-head about half-past 
six o'clock, and the band played the national anthems of England 
and America whilst the company were landing." 



" DEPARTURE OF THE NORTH STAR. 

" Immediately the English guests were all landed, the North 
Star put about, and bade a final adieu to Southampton, starting 
for the German Ocean. It is understood that she will proceed 
up the Baltic and the Neva, and from thence Commodore Van 
derbilt will visit the shores of the Mediterranean. 

" Commodore Vanderbilt has left behind him agreeable remin- 
iscences of his kindness and courtesy from the moment of his 
arrival. It is calculated that at least ten thousand persons have 
inspected the North Star at Southampton.* The yacht will not 
again call here, as she is to touch at Havre on her way from the 
Baltic trip to the Mediterranean." 

* A large party of visitors was on board at Southampton, who camo 
from Scotland direct to visit the North Star. 



CHAPTER VII. 

VOYAGE — COA.rT OF NORWAY — KRONBORO CASTLE AND ELSINORE — SHIPS 

IN THE SOUND COPENHAGEN BORNHOLM AND OLAND ISLANDS DR. 

LINSLY MIRAGE DAGO ISLAND STEAMER NEPTUNE CRONSTADT 

FORTIFICATIONS DOCKS SHIPPING PUBLIC BUILDINGS CHOLERA 

PETERHOFF WOODS VAUXHALL HOTEL MARLY AND MONPLAISIR 

PETER THE GREAT HIS HOUSE FURNITURE COTTAGE OF CATHE- 
RINE A RIDE THROUGH THE GROUNDS WATER-WORKS, ETC. PETER- 
HOFF IMPERIAL PALACE IMPERIAL YACHT, AND GRAND DUKE CONSTAN- 

TINE ADMIRAL GLASSENAPP — MR. MULLER MINIATURE PALACE 

COSSACKS. 

June 14. — Immediately after landing our friends at Soutliamp- 
ton, we steamed oflF, at about eight o'clock p. m., for St. Peters- 
burg, making use of only two boilers, and consuming only 
twenty-five tons coal. The intense fog, which sprang up and 
continued for the next two days, deprived us of much enjoyment, 
and on the 15th and 16th we were unable to take observations. 
The 17th was a delightful, balmy day, and the sea continued, as 
it had been from leaving England, like a sea of glass. On the 
morning of the 18th we were all on deck at sunrise, enjoying a 
most charming view of the coast of Sweden and Denmark, as 
we were sailing through the narrow passes of the Skager Rack 
and the Cattegat. This is the anniversary of the battle of Water- 
loo, and controversy runs sharp between the admirers of Wel- 
lington and the emperor. Alison's history is in great demand, 
and, of course, is criticized pretty freely. A recent attempt in 
New York to bolster up every act and opinion of the great man 
is also quoted as an indication of public opinion. A more 
unscrupulous vindication was never written in France ; and, in 
man}'- respects, it beats the emperor's own bulletins. That Napo- 



ELSINORE — SHIPS IN THE SOUND. 109 

leon was a great man, — that he was, in many respects, a bene- 
factor to France, — no one will deny; but that his restless 
ambition was a scourge to Europe, is apparent ; and the wisdom 
of the courts of Europe could devise no safety for themselves 
short of his overthrow. We were all enchanted with the pros- 
pect that opened upon us as we made Elsinore, and obtained a 
sight of Kronborg Castle, which is beautifully situated on the 
narrowest part of the sound, opposite the Swedish seaport of 
Helsinborg, about three miles distant. This noble fortress was 
built by Frederick II. at the close of the sixteenth century, and 
is regarded as one of the noblest castles of northern Europe. It 
is built in the Gothic style, and has several lofty towers and 
turrets. The design of the fortress was made by the great 
astronomer, Tycho Brahe. It was in this prison that Queen 
Caroline Matilda was so long confined, on account of her supposed 
criminal intercourse with Count Struensee. At this place is laid 
the scene of the great play of Shakspeare ; but it is all the 
merest fiction, as we have no proof to show that Denmark ever 
had a Hamlet for its sovereign. Elsinore is a pretty town, with 
fine environs ; its present population is about ten thousand. It 
is calculated that about eighteen thousand ships pass through 
the sound annually, and here it is that the tax is paid on their 
cargoes. This tax was reduced in 1842, and again in 1846. In 
1847 the number of vessels which passed Elsinore was twenty- 
one thousand five hundred and twenty-six, and in 1850 there 
were more than seven thousand British ships. 

When we entered the sound we were presented with a most 
extraordinary spectacle ; a calm had prevailed for a few days, 
and a vast collection of ships and vessels of all descriptions 
had gathered together; and now we found between Elsinore 
and Copenhagen, at a moderate estimate, I think, not less than 
one thousand, all under way. At one point Mr. Vanderbilt, 
Captain Eldridge, and other members of the party, reckoned two 
hundred and fifty-three sail in sight at once, and all, I think, 



110 COPENHAGEN — NIGHT IN THE BALTIC. 

witMn a circle of two and a half miles. Many of these weie 
large ships, and several hoisted the stars and stripes. I think 
the distance from Elsinore to the capital is about twenty -five 
miles; and our entire passage was one of great beauty. The 
Swedish shore was very fine, and on the Danish coast we noticed 
several most enchanting spots. Here and there were old castles, 
and several fine woods. It was pleasant to observe the churches, 
all of which looked in good condition. At half-past eleven we 
stopped our steamer off Copenhagen, and a party landed to 
obtain supplies of milk, eggs, butter and poultry. Our friends 
returned from the city after a delay of four or five hours, but they 
brought a good account of the place, and very excellent supplies. 
The best-made butter that we saw on our whole voyage was that 
which came on board at Copenhagen. Here, too, we obtained 
fine fish from the fishing-boats that were near us and returning 
home. At quarter past four p. m., we were off for Russia. 

Sunday, 19th June, was as beautiful a day as we could desire. 
The Baltic was as smooth as the Hudson, and we were not sensi- 
ble of any motion excepting the rapid progress of our yacht. 
And now we were experiencing the novel pleasure of the long 
days which are known in this season in the high latitudes, and 
the marvellous stories of which we had read in our youth. It 
certainly was strange to find the night only lasting for about two 
and a half hours. This was the case on the night after leaving 
Copenhagen ; and the most of it I passed on deck, in agreeable 
chat with Captain Eldridge, whose fund of knowledge, acquired 
by extensive travel and nautical experience, combined with great 
shrewdness of observation, always afforded us entertainment. 
After passing the grounds of Copenhagen, and taking our de- 
parture from the light-ship, we steered for the light-ship outside 
Falsterbo light-ship, stationed off the reef of the same name ; and, 
on rounding this, we steered directly for Bornholm. In the evening 
we passed Bornholm, and I am quite sure that no one on board 
the North Star will ever forget the magnificence of the night. 



MIRAGE — DAGO ISLAND. Ill 

[t certainly was the most glorious nocturnal season that I ever 
witnessed, — cloudless, and so light that only one or two stars 
were visible, and the moon shone in a milder lustre than we had 
ever before seen. Bornholm is an island belonging to Denmark, 
about twenty miles in length, and ten or twelve wide. The shores 
are lofty, and present a bold, rocky appearance, and all around 
it are dangerous reefs. Ronne is the chief town, on the west 
side. At the north point of the island is a light-house built on a 
mountain, called, I think, Steikbergh, and our chart gives it an 
elevation of two hundred and eighty feet above the surface of 
the sea. About fifteen miles east of Bornholm is a large group 
of rocks, called Eartholms; on one of these there is a castle 
called Christiansoe, and in this place is a small but safe harbor. 
Our course now lay direct for Oland Island, and we made the 
South-head light-house ; thence sailed for Gottland Island, and, 
coasting which, we made Ostergarns Island and light-house, and 
then sailed for Dago Island. Our good friend, Dr. Linsly, was 
now a sad sufi"erer. In travelling from Liverpool to London he 
was attacked with a pain in the neck; it kept increasing, and 
had now besome a severe old-fashioned carbuncle, of large size. 
His suiFerings were very painful, and it was in vain that I pre- 
scribed the lancet, which he acknowledged was the regular and 
proper thing in such cases provided ; but he squirmed at the 
fitting remedy, and, doctor-like, refused to take his own medicine. 
Soon after dinner our attention was directed to nine large ships-of- 
war ; they appeared with all sail set, and not more than ten or 
twelve miles off, but as we approached they vanished. After 
sailing for three hours and making forty iniles, we came upon the 
Russian fleet, consisting of nine ships-of-the-line, that were taking 
their usual summer cruise, and then found that we had witnessed 
a remarkable case of mirage. 

June 20, at nine a. m., we passed the light on Dago Island, 
at the entrance to the Gulf of Finland, and before noon were in 
sight of Nickmans Shoal, the spot where the British steamer, the 
10 



112 CRONSTADT. 

Neptune, was lost in May ; her masts and cliimney are still 
standing. We now passed by off Revel, and had a good view of 
its towers and shipping, light-houses and innumerable buoy 
flags. We next steered to pass Kokskar light, and then direct 
for the north side of Hoogland, making Eothscar light on 
our passage. We now headed for the Sommors light, and, 
passing which, we sailed between the Neva tower and the 
flags and beacons on the Stone ground, directing our course for 
the Tolbeacon light, from whence about twelve miles carried us 
to the island upon which Cronstadt is situated. 

2lst, Tuesday. — This is the longest day, and the sun did not 
set till nearly ten o'clock, and then rose again before two, and 
all the interval was one continued bright twilight, so that we 
could read the small type of the Courier and Enquirer and Herald 
on deck with great ease. At half-past twelve a bright halo indi- 
cates the proximity of the sun to the horizon during his absence. 
All were on deck to witness the sun rise, and I do not think that 
we shall soon forget the novelty of twenty-four hours .of day-light 
in one day. At ten o'clock we stopped opposite the guard-ship. 
Officers came on board, examined our passports, took a list of 
our names, objects, &c. We were then permitted to anchor off 
Cronstadt, and at eleven we were all settled down off this great 
fortress and naval depot. Here we were again boarded by 
officials, and after a few moments' explanation they retired, and 
the captain went on shore and made a representation to the gov- 
ernor of our objects and the character of the excursion. He was 
politely received, and orders were at once given for our landing 
when we pleased. 

Cronstadt is a strongly-fortified garrison, and is the great safe- 
guard of the metropolis. The population in the summer, when 
all is lively in the docks and navy -yard, is about thirty thousand, 
but in the winter not more than twelve thousand. This is the great 
depot of the northern fleet of the empire. In the dock appro- 
priated to the ships-of-war I should think forty might be accommo- 



FORTIFICATIONS — DOCKS — SHIPPING. 113 

dated ; and when we arrived there were twelve ships-of-the-line all 
undergoing repairs and receiving outfit, while in the river, directly 
around the North Star, were several noble steamers belonging to 
the government, and we at once recognized the Kamtschatka, 
built for the Czar in New York a few years ago. An immense 
harbor for merchantmen attracted our notice. It will receive, I 
should think, seven or eight hundred, and certainly not less than 
five hundred were in it during our visit ; among these were sev- 
eral of our own country. I noticed the Peterhofi", of Boston, the 
Sewell, of the same port, and other eastern ships. The fortifica- 
tions are of vast strength, and it seems as if no ship could pass 
the rocky islet and its auxiliary forts with safety, if its passage 
was disputed. The water is quite shallow, and the law is ex- 
ceedingly severe against placing any obstruction in the access to 
the Neva. No ballast or waste is allowed to be thrown over- 
board ofi" the town. We found the town without any particular 
charm ; but the arsenal, and navy-yard, with its ships, impressed 
us most favorably. The navy is as fine-looking as could be 
desired, and no American would feel mortified if he saw such 
vessels carrying the banner of his country. As we lay at anchor, 
we were much gratified to watch the incessant transit of steam 
and tow boats up and down from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt. 
The scene was one of great interest. I difi"er entirely from the 
guide-books as to the beauty of the shore on the passage to the 
capital ; so far from being tame, I regard the prospect off to the 
right as very fine. From the deck of the North Star I saw dis- 
tinctly 'the rays of the setting sun play on the dome of the 
churches and the golden spire of the admiralty, although we 
were at a distance of about eighteen miles. 

Our friends visited, in Cronstadt, the Marine Cadet Building, 
and the Naval Hospital. These are very spacious edifices, and 
are both conducted admirably. They are under the eye of the 
emperor, who frequently drops in to make an unexpected visita- 
tion. The hospital is regarded as a model institution. The 



114 ■ PETERHOFF. 

streets are so wide, and the people in them so few and far 
between, that we instantly felt that the place looked solitary. It 
was here that we learned that the cholera was in St. Petersburg, 
and that not a few cases existed in Cronstadt. And here I may 
observe, that, for a day before our arrival, and all the next day, 
there was scarcely a person on board our ship who had not, in 
some degree, the premonitory symptoms of this awful scourge of 
the nations. 

Our friends now divided into parties. Some took a steamer 
to Oranienbaum, — a little town, near to Peterhoff, — to which 
place they proceeded by droskys, the ride being one of about five 
miles. 

Mr. Vanderbilt chartered a small steamer, and his family went 
direct to Peterhofif, and he remained on board. We landed at 
the emperor's wharf, at which we found the royal yacht lying, 
with her steam up. She was a very splendid boat, of fine model, 
and as gay as blue paint and gilt ornament could make her. 
Her bow was very fine, and adorned with a golden eagle and an 
imperial crown. The sentries were about to dispute our landing 
at this place, when one of the ofiicers, who had visited the yacht 
the day before, stepped up, ordered us to land, and politely 
assisted the ladies, and then gave us direction to the hotel at 
Peterhoff. Peterhoff is the summer residence of the E-ussian 
court ; and I do not wonder that each successive emperor makes 
it his favorite abode. Our walk, for half a mile, lay through 
the most charming wood ; and the deep shades had been most 
evidently the care of men who had great taste, and well under- 
stood wood-craft. How our lost Downing would have rejoiced in 
this place ! We passed by noble oaks, and wanted to stop and 
admire them at once, without waiting for a regular survey of 
the place ; and perhaps it was an inward premonition that we 
were on what Russians regard as holy ground, for in a short 
time we found that one or two of these glorious monarchs of the 



PETERHOFF — RESIDENCE OF PETER THE GREAT. 115 

wood were planted by the hands of that wonderful man Peter 
the Great. 

On getting out of the wood, we entered a village of great 
beauty and elegance, and soon found ourselves comfortably 
ensconced in a hotel known as Vauxhall, and which made quite 
an appearance. The first thing was to obtain rooms, and this is 
the most important thing in a Russian tavern. The rooms were 
most exquisitely neat, — cleanliness itself; the furniture good, 
but scarce ; beds all single ; and the charge was made for beds 
rather than rooms. A sofa, fitted up with sheets, paid as well as 
a bed. After disposing of our entire party, the next thing was 
to get a lunch ; and this was done very satisfactorily, as we were 
all hungry. The provisions were excellent, and, as we found 
everywhere in Russia, entirely in the style of the French cuisine. 

After our refreshment, we started on a tour of inspection. I 
have visited most of the great palaces of England and France, 
and other countries in Europe, but I have seen no locality for a 
palace that pleases me more than Peterhofi", — at least, for a 
residence in summer. Its position is good ; it is at the mouth 
of the Neva, and commands a fine view of Cronstadt, from which 
it is, perhaps, ten miles distant. Our first sight was the resi- 
dence of Peter the Great ; it is not far removed from the old 
palace Marly is beautifully surrounded by trees, and the house 
is quite small, and not very unlike a Dutch farm-house. Its 
interior is quite like some old houses that I remember on the 
North rijer. In this snuggery Peter died. We saw the bed on 
which he breathed his last ; the bed-clothes are all preserved, as 
when he occupied the chamber. On the pillow are his caps and 
night-clothes, and his robe de chambre lying on the coverlet of 
the bed. Nothing can be more simple than all the furniture. 
The rooms are small ; and you can fancy that the old people who 
live in the cottage have just stepped out. In the room adjoining 
the small chamber are his slippers, boots and sedan-chair, and 
other articles of personal dress. In a small corner-cupboard are 
10^ 



116 PETERHOFF — GARDENS OF THE PALACE. 

his camp equipage, as plain as tin, iron and brass, can be. The 
walls of the kitchen are covered with blue Dutch tiles. Nothing 
indicates that royalty ever resided here, but some good Flemish 
pictures, and a few elegant Japanese cabinets and beautiful 
stands. His escritoire remains as he last used it. A long, nar- 
row saloon, which is really a covered gallery, has many portraits; 
and here the emperor used to walk, and receive his visitors. The 
dining-room was a small apartment, with a circular oak table, 
and the panels of fine Japanese work ; the lower wainscoting of 
old black oak. From a noble terrace, paved with marble, Peter 
could gaze upon his infant navy, lying olF at Cronstadt. The 
rocks of the sea-shore come quite up to the balustrades of the 
terrace, and greatly add to the scenery. The Empress Elizabeth 
used to retire from the pomp of royalty at this quiet spot, and is 
said to have cooked her own dinners. We then went to visit the 
cottage of Catherine, the interior of which is excessively rich ; 
and its mirrors, and wonderful collection of china and glass, 
entirely captivated our ladies. In no place have I seen such 
magnificent specimens of Dresden porcelain as in this gem of a 
palace ; and the gorgeousness of some of the apartments struck 
us peculiarly, after the contrast we had witnessed in the humble 
apartments of the great monarch. We now set ofi" in carriages, 
to ride round the pleasure-grounds, and see the charming ^llas 
and gardens connected with the present abode of royalty. The 
verdure of the sward, and the foliage of the woods, and the 
gay flowers of the thousand garden beds and borders, transcend 
all that I have known of beauty in the country-life of any part 
of the world ; and, when we think that all this enchanting display 
has sprung up in six weeks, — for no longer ago it was absolute 
winter, and thick snow covered the face of the earth, — we feel 
that we are indeed, in a land of wonders, and it is with an appre- 
ciating understanding of the mystery involved, that we exclaim, 
of the Great Author of all that is fair and excellent, " Thou 
re7iewest the face of the earth" 



PETERHOFF — ORNAMENTS OF PALACE-GARDENS. 117 

The gardens are very extensive, — the drives enclose thirty 
miles ; and fish-ponds, temples, villas, &c., are too numerous to 
allude to in detail. The bathing-house of the imperial family is 
a most admirable building ; and from a chaste marble structure 
you walk do\Yn into a large sheet of water, surrounded by a 
dense foliage of lui'ty trees. The vast amount of water at com- 
mand enables the imperial owner to rival, if not surpass, the 
celebrated water-works at Versailles. Every possible surprise 
awaits the wanderer through these grounds. You are standing 
to admire some beautiful tree; the guide has touched a spring, 
and every branch, and every twig, and every leaf, is turned into 
crystal ; and a fountain rises from that tree, which is metallic, 
although the spectator supposed it to be veritably a production 
of the forest. While passing over exquisite bridges from island 
to island, and in boats drawn by stationary ropes, we observed 
the imperial gondolas, which are much used by the royal family. 

On one of these islets we were pleased with what seemed to be 
a beautiful temple ; and, ordering the driver to stop, we alighted 
from the carriages, and soon reached it on a movable platform, 
propelled by two men drawing on ropes on either side of it. 
Never was there a more blissful retreat than this peaceful spot. 
The temple was a lovely miniature villa. Statuary decked the 
outer niches of the walls. The entrance was through a long 
passage, roofed with ivy; a high wall was covered with tho 
same, so trained as to allow medallions and marble entaglios on 
the wall to appear as within a frame. Here was a fountain, in 
the centre of a large basin, flowers rare and fragrant, and some 
most precious groups of statuary, forming a coup d'asil at once 
fairy -like and enchanting. Opening on the fountain was a fine 
spacious summer-room, furnished with a rich divan piled up with 
cushions. In front of it stood a small, low table, supporting a 
reclining Cleopatra, the poisonous asp upon her arm, and her 
left hand rested on her heart. Here, too, was a beautiful 
mosaic table. The. next rcom was peculiarly tasteful, and full 



118 VISIT OF GRAND DUKE TO NORTH STAR. 

of comfort. The table, writing-desk, statuary, all looked as 
though the most fastidious taste had directed the position of each 
object. The garden of thii islet was radiant with roses, azaleas, 
fuchsias, carnations. 

The palace is a large building, painted yellow, and picked off 
with white. It has, no very great architectural merits; but the 
chapel, which stands, at one end, has a gorgeous dome, which 
reflects every ray of light from its gilt surface. AYe were shown 
through the palace with every attention, and were much gratified 
with the regal display of objects of art. The malachite, porce- 
lain and statuary, were exquisitely beautiful ; and there were 
several good paintings. In one large apartment there are more 
than three hundred portraits of the prettiest girls in Pvussia, 
executed for Catherine II. ; and very pretty some of them are, 
too, in their national costumes. From the royal residence down 
to the bank of the Neva is a series of terraces, and one continued 
series of waterfalls, lakes and fountains. The basins, Neptunes, 
Tritons and cascades, must be seen, for no written description 
will do them any justice. Again and again did we drive round 
this fairy spot ; and we left it never again expecting to see so 
much that is beautiful in the arrangement of gardens and grounds. 

When we returned to Yauxhall, to dinner, we found Mr. 
Vanderbilt, and learned from him that the royal yacht, which we 
had seen at the wharf with her steam on, had made a trip to the 
North Star, and brought as a visitor to him the Grand Duke 
Constantino, the second son of the emperor, and the High Admi- 
ral of the Russian navy ; and, on his return to Peterhoff, he 
brought Mr. Vanderbilt in his yacht, and sent round one of the 
emperor's carriages, with the royal livery, to take Mr. and 
Mrs. V. round the place. The duke made quite a long visit on 
board the North Star, inspected every part of the ship with much 
interest, and requested permission to have some officers of the 
topographical corps allowed to come on board, to take drafts of 
the ship, her cabins, engines, &c. This was cheerfully acceded 



ADMIKAL GLASSENAPP— EVENING PRAYER. 119 

to. These gentlemen came, another day, with their portfolios, 
and made capital views of the machinery, &c. With the duke 
was a gentleman, named Muller, who is on terms of some inti- 
macy with him, and from whom we continued to receive very 
polite and useful attentions while we remained in Russia. After 
dinner we went to the parade-ground, in front of the palace, as 
it was expected that the emperor would be present when the 
band performed their evening music. While promenading I had 
the pleasure to meet Admiral Glassenapp, who had visited our 
yacht the day of our arrival, and with whom I had gone through 
our steamer. He was very polite, gave me every explanation as 
to the troops, and, pointing to a window, told me that the empe- 
ror was in^that room, and was so engaged that he would not 
appear on the ground. He had that day given audience of leave- 
taking to our minister, Mr. Brown, who was recalled by the new 
administration. Admiral Glassenapp is a very, intelligent man, 
about forty or forty-five years of age, and has the command of 
the Naval Cadets, who are now in three frigates, lying off in the 
Neva, just opposite the palace. The admiral speaks English 
tolerably well, and very much reminds me of General Totten, of 
the United States' Engineers, as I remember him when he resided 
at Newport. Just as we were talking, the band struck up a very 
solemn air ; all hats were off instantly, and a death-like silence, 
for a few moments, pervaded the vast assemblage. It was the 
evening prayer, and is observed by the military with great 
solemnity. I have not often observed a more devotional observ- 
ance than that which I was so happy as to witness on this occa- 
sion. In the evening we were all much fatigued ; but our friend 
Mr. Muller insisted that I should ride a mile or two, to see tha 
new splendid Tea House, which has lately been built for the heir 
apparent, who has just married. A pleasant ride brought us to 
this most elegant establishment. The Tea House is a miniature 
palace. It is a large, splendid mansion, but small for a regal 
residence. Here everything surpasses, in exquisiteness of furni- 



120 TEA HOUSE. 

ture and spiendor, any palace I have seen in Europe. The rooms 
are quite of moderate dimensions, but the style of finish is beyond 
my previouL- ideas of domestic archite<itural beauty. The pic- 
tures, statuary, hangings, are all as beautiful as the art of 
Europe can furnish. The portraits of the emperor and empress, 
Alexander, and other members of the royal family, were in the 
best style of the art. I shall never forget the staircases, the 
bath-rooms, and the library. The bed-rooms, and every part of 
the establishment, were thrown open to our inspection ; and the 
ladies who were with us regarded this as the great treat of the 
day. Other things we had seen were of days gone by, but this 
was the splendor of the present age ; and perhaps no palace in 
the world is superior to this bijou in its completeness of arrange- 
ment. The timepieces of this palace are of vast value. The 
gardens are fine ; and nature has done much for the grounds, as 
ofi" to the right is a deep ravine, with fine walks and artificial 
terraces. Here, as at Peterhofi", I noticed the best specimens of 
gilly-flowers that I ever saw, whole beds of white double-flowers, 
and some of the deepest scarlet. Roses were just beginning to 
appear; but the wild ones were in profusion. We were all 
amused at seeing the nurse-maids, on the parade-ground, with 
the infants under their care. Some of these servants bad head- 
dresses which would have been worth looking at in Barnum's 
Museum. We noticed about a dozen Cossacks of the Don. They 
were stern-looking men, of large proportions, with head-dress of 
a peculiar cast. They carried long spears. Admiral Glassenapp 
informed me that a few of the Cossacks and Circassians are 
always near the person of the Czar, and that it is intended as a 
compliment to these valuable portions of the army. 



CHAPTER- YIII. 

SV4LL STEAMER DRESS OF OFFICERS VIEW OF ST. PETERS! URO QUEER 

niOCESSION HOTELS POLITENESS MR. ROPES, U. S. CONSUL SUM- 
MER ISLANDS PETER THE GREAT'S FIRST HOUSE THE CITY ADMI- 
RALTY — STATUE OF PETER NEFFSKY PERSPECTIVE SERFS VIEW OF 

CITY BY MOONLIGHT — -WINTER PALACE AND ITS DEPARTMENTS RE- 
GALIA THE HERMITAGE PAINTINGS OF DIFFERENT SCHOOLS THE 

LOGGIE PETER'S MUSEUM PRECIOUS STONES HOROLOGE WREATHS 

AND LAURELS FROM CHERSONESUS — MARBLE PALACE ALEXANDER PIL- 
LAR MR. EVANS MONASTERY OF ALEXANDER NEFFSKY ENGLISH 

CHURCH KESAN CATHEDRAL ITS INTERIOR AND SERVICE ISAAC 

CHURCH. 

We left PeterbofF in the morning boat for St. Petersburg, but 
several of the party retained their rooms, and went to and fro 
daily ; but I felt anxious to see as much as possible of the city 
in our brief stay, and therefore reluctantly left what I shall ever 
regard as one of the most attractive spots I ever visited. The 
charms of Peterhoff are not its palace and its imperial residents, 
but the glorious exhibition which is laid open to the admirer of 
nature. 

On getting on board the small steamer, we found a crowded 
deck. Very many of the passengers were officers ; they all wore 
the dark gray or blue cloak reaching to the very heels, and the 
standing collar fitting close up to the ears. This, in such hot 
weather as we were then enduring, struck me as remarkable ; 
but I afterwards learned that, such is the strictness observed in 
the army inspection, that not a spot or particle of dust is over- 
looked ; and that, to protect the person, this immense cloak is 
part and parcel of every E/Uss'an officer. Most surely, all I saw 



122 QUEER PROCESSION. 

wore them. A very queer appearance, too, do these cloaks pre 
sent upon the shoulders of their occupants, because the immense 
epaulettes extend from the shoulders, and give a square form to 
the upper part of the cloak. I saw several fine-looking boys, 
from ten to fifteen or sixteen years of age, who were military 
cadets ; they all wore the same order of cloaks, and some of the 
little fellows, who had green uniforms, were made to look ridicu- 
lous by large cocked hats. 

The appearance of the great city excited our interest, and we 
were all gazing at its golden domes and minarets, so entirely 
unlike any city we had yet seen. The public buildings and the 
English quay are in themselves astonishing structures, and pro- 
duce a most favorable impression on the voyager before he lands. 
We had no difl&culty at the custom-house ; our permits from 
the governor of Cronstadt seemed an " open sesame " in our 
case, and we and our baggage passed without any trouble or 
delay. I do wish that our friends could have seen that North 
Star party on the noble quay ! There we were, as devoid of 
all ability to talk Russian as the serf drosky-drivers were to 
talk English. Our friend, Mr. Muller, was soon at our elbow, 
and a little army of droskys was laid under conscription. I 
think the procession that left that quay was as ludicrous as any 
in which I ever had been called to figure. My luck secured me 
an elegant post-chaise, and a glass coach conveyed Mr. and Mrs. 
Vanderbilt ; but the rest of the party were bestowed upon the 
great vehicle of the land, — the ever-present drosky. Such 
laughing as we had, as we galloped over the great bridge, at our 
friends, sitting side-ways and other ways on those hard benches, 
covered with blue cloth, and resting upon apologies for springs, 
and running on four wheels! An immense baggage- wagon, filled 
with our luggage, brought up the rear, and really looked as if 
we were about to become actual settlers, instead of mere transient 
sojourners. We first drove to the Hotel des Princes, to which 
we had been strongly advised. Here we were most politely 



ST. PETERSBURG HOTELS. 123 

received by a young gentleman, who informed us that the hotel 
was too full to receive so large a party ; but he insisted on our 
all coming in till soilfe of the gentlemen could make suitable 
arrangements. AV^e were shown into a superb parlor, and imme- 
diately the waiters spread a table, and placed on it bread, butter, 
anchovies, caviare, claret, sherry, brandy, ice, and cakes in 
variety. This excellent lunch was very seasonable, as it was nbw 
twelve o'clock, and the day intensely hot, — quite equal to our 
usual summer heat in New York. Soon after we had refreshed 
ourselves, our friend returned, and we found that everything was 
prepared for our reception at Demmouth's, by the side of the 
Moika canal. On calling for our bill, the gentleman who had 
first received us declined making any charge, and we found it 
impossible to put our lunch to any other account than the polite 
attention of the French proprietor. Monsieur Auguste. Three 
gentlemen and their ladies remained at this hotel, and had as 
elegant accommodations as could be found, I think, in Europe. 
We were all of us soon comfortably domiciled at our quarters; 
and I may say that I think the hotels of St. Petersburg have 
been slandered as to the cleanliness of their apartments. Most 
certainly, at neither of the two establishments we tried had we 
any reason to complain, but rather were disposed to think them 
exceedingly comfortable. 

It would be wrong not to speak of the kindness which we met 
from our consul, Mr. Ropes, and his excellent partner and 
brother-in-law, Mr. Prince. Of these gentlemen I shall have 
more to say. Mr. Brown, the United States minister, left 
Petersburg the day we arrived ; but he had, I believe, a short 
interview with Mr. Yanderbilt, as he was on the eve of depart- 
ure. It was now that we found the kind services of Mr. Mul- 
ler of great value, and he was indefatigable in his efibrts to Lid 
our movements in and around the city. 

Soon after taking possession of our hotel, we ordered car- 
riages, and, after riding through the great streets of this won- 
11 



124 THE SUMMER ISLANDS. 

derful metropolis of the north, we went to see the Summer 
Islands. If the map is consulted, it will show that in the delta 
of the Neva there are many small islanlft. Some of these are 
still desert spots, or covered with brushwood and small trees, 
affording covert to wolves and bears ; but several of the islets 
near to the city have been reclaimed and placed under the high- 
est class of cultivation, and, by the aid of bridges, are united. 
These islands are the favorite resort of the nobility and wealthy 
men of St. Petersburg, and innumerable houses and villas have 
sprung up. Our ride was one of at least ten miles, and we 
passed the splendid palace of Count Orloff", on the river bank, 
and through a village of cottages which much resembled the 
rural abodes of Switzerland. Yellagin Island is a charming 
spot, and here is the emperor's datscha, a very comfortable-look- 
ing country-house. A prettier view than is enjoyed from this 
spot cannot be desired. The eye rests with pleasure on the gay 
parterres of extensive and well-cultivated gardens, on the noble 
river, and on the golden spires, domes and minarets, of the city 
and its innumerable palatial buildings. The avenues of these 
wooded islands are most extraordinary pathways, and are cut 
through dense forests of birch and pine wood. Some of the 
private houses are models of comfort and coseyness, and I fancied 
that enjoyment and happiness were no strangers in this delight- 
ful region. Many of the buildings were apparently mere pine- 
board erections, and of a very extemporaneous character. I 
understand that every one who has the means is in the habit of 
migrating to these truly elysian fields and charming islands in 
the summer months. The small retail dealers have their little 
cottages, and visit their families on Sundays and holidays. The 
constant improvements going on in this city must be made dur- 
ing the brief summer, and the dust and dirt, combined with 
occasional excessive heat, afford sufficient induc(.ment to flit, as 
the Scotch call a removal, from town to country. 

The estates of the Counts Nesselrode and Strj)gonoff are very 



PETER THE GREAT'S FIRST HOUSE. 125 

extensive, and the houses and parks are rich in statuary. 
Everything I saw would have been a source of admiration on the 
banks of the Seine, or the shores of the Arno, and was verj'- 
far beyond anything I expected to meet on the Neva. I ought 
to say that nearly all the habitats of any mark on these islands 
had fine green and hot houses attached. We were conducted to 
a spacious establishment, where the gardens were large, and the 
orchestra and ball-room opened upon them. This place had a 
mineral spring. -We had an excellent dinner furnished at a 
short notice, but there did not seem to be much company about. 
Later in the evening, no doubt, we should have seen more per- 
sons. The price of dinner was fourteen rubles for thirteen per- 
sons, inclusive of good claret. Our earliest visit in the city was 
made to the original cottage residence of its founder. This is a 
spot I had longed to see. I wanted to sit down in a room where 
a man had dwelt, and thought, and acted, who had done so 
much to leave his mark upon the age in which he lived. It is a 
very small affair, and contains but three apartments. The fur- 
thest one was his bedroom, the next his chapel, and one off to 
the right was his room for company. We saw many articles 
that belonged to the great man, kept under glass cases; and pic- 
tures, maps, plans and charts, are on the walls, as when he 
resided here. One map of the city is of his own draft. The 
chapel is occupied by a priest, and daily service is observed ; it 
was going on when we visited it, and the audience consisted of 
some six or eight woful-looking devotees, all upon their knees, 
or with their foreheads on the ground. Beads and trinkets were 
offered for sale to us, and all round the door we were beset with 
monks and nuns from the country, as we were told, begging for 
their conventual institutions ; and a sad, dirty -looking set they 
were. The entire building, which was originally a log cottage, 
has been surrounded with a plank covering, by the order of the 
late Emperor Alexander. Here, too, we saw a large boat which 
Peter constructed, I suppose, after his initiation into boat and 



126 THE CITY — ADMIRALTY. 

sHp-build: ng in Holland. Not far from this spot we saw tho 
first church which was erected in St. Petersburg. 

The city is principally situated on the south bank of the Neva, 
and comprehends several islands ; and, as much of it was origin- 
ally a mere marsh, it has had to undergo a thorough drainage, 
which has rendered large canals indispensable. These are con- 
structed of the most massive materials, and have a fine appear- 
ance. The date of the city is from 1703; and in one century 
and a half all this magnificent metropolis has been called into 
existence by a people supposed to be semi-barbarous ; and yet it 
transcends, in many respects, every other capital of Europe. I 
quite agree with the lamented Stephens, who stated in his trav- 
els, '* I do not believe that Rome, when Adrian reared the mighty 
Colosseum, and the Palace of the Cnesars covered the Capitoline 
Hill, exhibited such a range of noble structures as now exists in 
the Admiralty Quarter." The admiralty itself is the central 
point, on one side fronting the Neva, and on the other a large 
open square, and has a fa<^ade of marble, with ranges of col- 
ximns a quarter of a mile in length. A beautiful golden spire 
shoots up from the centre, towering above every other object, 
and seen from every part of the city glittering in the sun ; and 
three principal streets, each two miles in length, radiate from this 
point. In front is a range of Boulevards, ornamented with trees, 
and an open square, at one extremity of which stands the great 
church of St. Isaac. This square extends to a great distance, 
and on it are the Winter Palace, Hermitage, and other splendid 
erections. 

In walking along this square, the admiralty is off to the left. 
The Neva runs in front of the grand fa9ade. Here, too, near 
by the Isaac church, is the far-famed statue of Peter the Great. 
This is a glorious creation, and is regarded as the chef-d'oeuvre 
of Falconet. 

The pedestal is a natural block of granite, just as taken from 
the quarry. Peter is seated on horseback ; one hand is pointing 




f Al-ti 



STATUE OF PETER THE GREAT. 129 

significantly, the horse paws the air with his fore-legs, whilst the 
hinder are trampling upon a serpent. The weight of the statue 
is poised on the tail of the horse, which is fastened on the stone. 
The inscription on the pedestal is, 

PETRO PRIMO, 
CATHERINA SECUNDA. 

I thought with pride of our own Mills, who has succeeded so 
nobly in his equestrian statue of Jackson, and in which the horse 
is self-poised. 

The great street of the city — the Broadway — is the Neffsky 
Perspective, named after Alexander Nefi"sky, the patron saint of 
St. Petersburg. I think this and the other two streets, radi- 
ating from the adiuiralty, are two hundred feet wide. The chan- 
nel-gutter is in the middle of the street, and on each side of it 
are wooden pavements broad enough to allow two carriages or 
wagons to cross each other. The pavements are wide and well 
made. Many of the shops and stores on this Perspective aro 
fine, and have very much the appearance of similar establish- 
ments in New York, London or Paris. 

I know not how it is, but I never before felt so solitary in a 
large city. There are few persons in the streets, and certainly 
seven out of ten we meet are serfs ; and all the drosky-drivers 
are wrapped up in long, blue coarse cloth coats down to their 
heels, and the waist tied with a red scarf, leather thong, or rope. 
The hat is a queer-looking afiair, very low-crowned and bell- 
shaped. I have never seen so many lifeless, inanimate faces as 
in Russia. The countenance is sallow, eyes sunken, and beards 
are mostly yellow. In these great streets, and over the vast 
admiralty-square, amid the palaces and vast buildings, I rambled 
by moonlight, and was never weary while watching the queen 
of heaven climbing over dome, minaret and fa(^ade. It was then 
that I realized the magnitude of this strange city, and felt that 
11^ 



130 WINTER PALACE AND ITS DEPARTMENTS. 

it had now an air of antiquity and grandeur that no other city 
I have seen can boast. By the light of the moon I could not 
distinguish the brick plaster and stucco from granite or marble ; 
but by the light of day the illusion was dispelled. 

Our visit to the Winter Palace had been arranged by the kind- 
ness of Mr. MuUer, and we found free admission to every portion 
of this regal abode. This building presents a marble front upon 
the Neva of nearly eight hundred feet, and the rear, which lies 
upon the immense square, is of plaster, but richly adorned. Its 
form is a square. On entrance, we all had to deposit great- 
coats, as only dress-coats are tolerated in the precincts of im- 
perial majesty. The grand staircase is one of wonderful beauty, 
and we happened to see the great carpet put upon it, as the royal 
family were to visit the palace the next day. This wonderful 
mansion was destroyed by fire December 29, 1837, and was re- 
built in less than two years. I think no capital in Europe can 
boast of such a royal residence. It is vain to attempt a descrip- 
tion of so much splendor as I saw ; for one room after another, 
till we had gone through a hundred, seemed to surpass in magnifi- 
cence all its predecessors. The St. George's Hall is the most 
beautiful apartment, I suppose, in the world ; certainly it is supe- 
rior to any saloon at Versailles. Imagine a room one hundred 
and forty feet by sixty ; on either side are twenty columns of 
porphyry, the bases and capitals most richly gilt. These pillars 
arre the support not only of the ceiling, but of a noble gallery, the 
balustrade of which is of the most highly elaborate workman- 
ship. The Salle Blanche, where the great gala fetes are Held, is 
entirely decorated with white ornaments, profusely adorned with 
the richest gildings. In passing from the first room to this last, 
we went through a gallery of national portraits ; and among the 
heroes of the empire we were much interested with the like- 
nesses of Barclay de Tolly and England's Iron Duke, Suwarrow, 
und Kutuzoff. The empress' state drawing-room was thought 
oy our ladies to be the gem of the palace ; and certainly its 



REGALIA THE HERMITAGE. 131 

pictures, vases, &c., arc wondrous. It is gilt from floor to ceil- 
ing, except a space of two feet from the floor, ^yhich is a deep 
French blue. The hangings and furniture oF all the royal apart- 
ments proper entirely surpass the splendor of Buckingham 
Palace, Windsor, and the Tuilleries. 

The room containing the diamonds and regalia excited the 
interest of all in our party ; and on no consideration would we 
have been deprived of the pleasure of seeing this unrivalled col- 
lection of treasures. Rubies, diamonds, emeralds, and pearls, — 
why, the room was full of them. The imperial crown pleased 
me better than any diadem I have seen in the regalia of other 
kingdoms. It is surmounted with a wreath of oak-leaves formed 
of diamonds, — and not small ones, — and in the sceptre is one 
supposed to be the largest in the world. Its history is remark- 
able. It was purchased by Catherine II., from a Greek slave, 
and for the small amount of four hundred and fifty thousand 
rubles, to which was added a pension for life. The time occu- 
pied by an examination of this palace was double what I have 
ever seen devoted to any other. The servants who escorted us 
all wore the imperial liveries, and were tall, fine-looking men. 
The great dining-room is a very noble saloon ; and here and in 
the next room we saw the immense collection of gold plate, in 
which the Czar surpasses all his royal brethren in Europe. 

The Hermitage was the favorite resort of the great Catherine, 
and it is united to the Winter Palace by a covered gallery, or, 
rather, I think, by several. This building received so much 
reconstruction when the Winter Palace was rebuilt, that it is 
essentially a new edifice. The portico of this building is really 
glorious. It is supported by ten colossal statues, of Finland 
granite, each eighteen feet high. The feet of these are 
twenty-five inches in length. Some of our party thought them 
the true lions of St. Petersburg. They are wonderful, no doubt. 
Opposite to this building is the pala :e where the Emperor Paul 
met with his tragical end. 



132 PAINTINGS, OF DIFFERENT SCHOOLS. 

I regard the Hermitage as the great affair of St. Petersburg, 
and certainly prefer it, as a museum of paintings and works of 
art, to the Louvre. I believe" there are in this building nearly 
three thousand paintings ; and the galleries embrace the works 
of all the great masters, and especially some of the works of 
Murillo, Snyders, Potter, and furnish the most interesting assem- 
blage of Flemish pictures in the world ; at least, it is a rival to 
the galleries of the Hague, Amsterdam, and Antwerp. I con- 
fess that the Dutch school is my passion; and here are Ostades, 
Boths, Neefs, Gerard Duows, Denners, Teniers, Wouvermans, and 
Mieris, to occupy a month in patient and delightful study. The 
pictures of game, and fruit and flowers, are very beautiful. All 
Europe has been ransacked, and no money has been spared, in 
obtaining these gems of art. It may be fancied that nothing 
can be much richer, when I state that the collections of Crozat, 
of Paris, Tranchini, of Geneva, Baudoin, of Paris, Sir Robert 
Walpole, the Prince of Conde, the galleries of Houghton, Prince 
Guistiniani's, Hope's, of Amsterdam, and the Malraaison and Coes- 
velts, are all concentred here. One excellence of this noble 
establishment consists in its order and arrangement. Every 
school and master is in its proper apartment ; and no gallery in 
the world has been so admirably arranged, or placed in such 
superbly-finished apartments. In all the rooms of this building, 
as well as in the Winter Palace, the eye is charmed with vases 
and candelabra of jasper, porphyry and malachite, that can be 
seen nowhere else but in this wondrous capital. 

The room devoted to Berabrandt has more than forty of his 
pictures, and some of them are his best. I would mention " The 
Prodigal's Beturn," " Old Woman and her Book," and "The 
Monk and his Pupil," and "Abraham Sacrificing Isaac," as 
peculiarly fine. Murillo's St. Mark is a fine production. We 
all stopped in admiration at two very small pictures, of aged 
women, by Denner. They are the most life-like pictures I ever 
gazed upon, not excepting the Baphael portraits in Florence. 



PAINTINGS, OE DIFFERENT SCHOOLS. 183 

The room which contains the Wouvermans pictures can never 
be forgotten bj any one who has an eye for the beautiful. One, 
" The Interior of a Stable," is capital ; but some of this painter's 
pieces here are poor enough ; and I cannot feel that the Salvator 
Rosas and Leonardo da Vincis, are all of genuine parentage. 
One Holy Family, by this last artist, in which I observed St. 
Catherine is introduced in the place of Zecharias, is undeniably 
his, and is a great picture. 

A portrait of Clement IX., by Carlo Maratti, is one of the 
most impressive portraits ever placed on canvas. Here are a 
large number of small cabinet pictures, which I could stand and 
gaze at and study for hours. I would rather look at one good 
picture for an hour, and correct my taste by its careful contem- 
plation, than look at a hundred gairish daubs, which are called 
fine paintings by those who judge a picture by its dimensions and 
the quantity of bright coloring. I think I have seen finer pic- 
tures by Murillo, in some English galleries, and in Paris, than 
most of those here ascribed to the great Spaniard. An unfin- 
ished Holy Family, by Raphael, did not much please me ; but 
I was greatly delighted with his St. George and the Dragon, and 
the Princess on her Knees. This great picture has been a trav- 
eller. It was painted in 1506, for the Duke of Urbino, and 
presented by him to Henry VII., at the death of Charles I. When 
all the choice works of art were scattered, this gem went with 
the rest, and has now a worthy home. A Madonna, once be- 
longing to the Duke of Alba, and afterwards the great attrac- 
tion of the Coesvelt gallery, is a world-renowned picture, and 
cost the emperor more than thirty thousand dollars. This has 
been engraved in London, and is, to my eye, one of the most 
pleasing Madonnas that I know. The Virgin Mother is seated 
in a landscape scene, the Saviour on her lap, while she is read- 
ing a book, and John, kneeling, ofters the infant a cup. The 
mother's expression is exquisitely beautiful. I was greatly 
delighted with a Judith, ascribed to Raphael, but supposed to 



134 THE LOGGIE — PETER'S MUSEUM. 

be a Moretto. The paintings by Domenichino are, I tbink, not 
at all equal to some I have seen in English galleries, and in tbf. 
Louvre. -And certainly this is true of the pictures by llubens, 
if I except the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, the Bacchus and 
SatyrSj Perseus and Andromeda. Vandyke has here Charles I. 
and his Queen, and noble pictures they are, too. A marriage of 
St. Catherine, by Corregio, is an interesting production of this 
great master. 

Hercules strangling the Serpents, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, is 
a famous picture ; but has recently been restored, and not very 
ably, I suspect. "The Repose in Egypt," by Murillo, is a great 
cfifort, and demands a careful study. Snyders' Bear Hunt is a 
wonderful piece of study, and pleased me as much as his great 
Boar Hunt, that I have seen, I think, in Holland. In one of 
the galleries we noticed a copy of Raphael's Loggie. This is 
by celebrated Italian painters. 

The Loggie are galleries in a part of the Vatican palace, and 
are decorated by Raphael with paintings, and stuccoes, and ara- 
besque ornaments. The subjects are chiefly mythological sub- 
jects. The ceilings describe a cycle of events from Scripture 
history, and these have been called " Raphael's Bible." 1 
turned back to look again at Gerard Duow, and Mieris, and 
Ostade, and would gladly have tarried all day over these pre- 
cious panels. But we were oflF to other portions of this vast 
curiosity-shop. Here is the Museum of Peter the Great. Here 
are his clothes, his work-tools, his lathes, his finished and un- 
finished carving and statuary ; for he was no mean sculptor, as 
his Abraham and Isaac testify. In a glass case he is presented, 
life-like, in his wedding-suit of clothes. Never have I seen such 
a collection of jewelry and precioix^ stones as are gathered to- 
gether in these long, long galleries. Bouquets, that look as 
though they had perfiime, are here by scores, all formed of 
rubies, emeralds, diamonds and amethysts, of inestimable value ; 



ANTIQUITIES FROM THE CRIMEA. 135 

watches by hundreds, and snuff-boxes and works of art adorned 
by diamonds. 

We came to the conclusion that the buried-up treasures of the 
Hermitage would meet all the expenses of a formidable cam- 
paign. No person, who has not visited this truly wonderful 
place, can imagine what knick-knackery and works of vertu are 
crowded into one room after another. 

The snuff-boxes which have been presented from the Sultans 
of Turkey are almost too precious to be credited. Here is an 
escritoire that opens to the sound of music, and has hundreds 
of secret drawers, all starting out by hidden springs. One of 
the most gorgeous trifles is a vast clock, in a glass case, ten feet 
by six or eight. The clock is a large tree, of which the branches 
and leaves are gold. In the foliage is a peacock, who, when the 
chimes commence, expands his tail, and an owl turns up his 
solemn eyes, and a golden cock flaps his wings and crows lustily. 

The Hermitage contains a fine library, containing the private 
collections of Voltaire, Diderot and Zimmerman, with those of 
other illustrious scholars. But the grand Imperial Library is 
one of the largest in Europe, and now contains nearly half a 
million of books. The MS3. here gathered are invaluable, espe- 
cially those bearing upon French and English history. Here are 
volumes of original letters, unequalled in interest; and every 
facility is afforded to the students in obtaining access to these 
marvellous treasures. 

One room was intensely interesting. It was devoted to anti- 
quities brought from the Crimea ; and, if I recollect rightly, 
from a town between the Sea of Azof and the Black Sea. These 
are of the purest gold, and of immense value. They were found 
in tumuli, and were of Grecian origin. The laurel wreaths are 
as perfect as if just from the goldsmith's hands. A helmet, or 
mask, with a shield, are of the highest order of artistic skill. 
No palace in Europe can match this unique collection. All the 
apartments in the Hermitage are adorned with the most costly 



136 GRAND DUKE CONSTANTINE'S PALACE. 

furniture; chairs and sofas of exquisite design and material, and 
centre-tables of unknown value, of porphyry, jasper, lapis-lazuli, 
and malachite. One vase, of gigantic proportions, is made of 
Siberian marble : it is of an oblong form, and its circumference 
is fifty feet, and its weight forty-three thousand two hundred 
pounds. 

It is tantalizing to look at this place, and to feel that, instead 
of spending a week or two in the treasury of art, science and 
beauty, you must " do it up " in three or four hours. 

I forget whether here or elsewhere, but I think in the Her- 
mitage, it was that I saw BrulofF's great picture of the Last Days 
of Pompeii. It is, I think, full twenty feet by fifteen or sixteen ; 
its management of color is almost as wonderful as the work of 
Rembrandt, and there are figures in the grouping that will live 
in memory. 

The marble palace contiguous to the Hermitage is one of 
the noblest mansions here, and is the residence of the Grand 
Duke Constantine, who, although it was closed for the summer, 
and all the rooms covered, had the politeness to have it thrown 
open to our party, and everything uncovered for inspection. 
Those who went through it were greatly delighted ; but I was 
weary of splendid rooms, and preferred a quiet walk, and then 
a drive round and about the city. 

Visits were made to the Admiralty, the Mint, the Arsenal, 
the Fort, the Custom-house and the Corps des Mines, where a 
large number of pupils are educated for governmental service in 
the vast mines of the empire. Here is the finest mineralogical 
museum in the world, and a description of it would make an 
interesting volume. Under ground is a fine model of a Siberian 
mine, representing all the various appearances of a natural for- 
mation. 

Directly in front of the Winter Palace is the Hotel de I'Etat 
Major. On this very immense structure is a beautiful group of 
bronze, — a chariot of Victory, drawn by eight prancing steeds. 



MONASTERY — ENGLISH CHURCH. 187 

This is a no'ale work, and is universally admired. Between the 
palace an 1 tliis edifice stands the famous Alexander's Pillar, a 
grand shaft of red marble, from the quarries of Finland. This is 
surmounted by an angel bearing a cross. The height of the 
monument is nearly one hundred and sixty feet. 

In company with my old friend !Mr. Evans, of New Bedford, 
who has the superintendance of the imperial cordage manufac- 
tory, I visited the Monastery of St. Alexander Neffsky ; this is 
a very celebrated institution, and is the seat of a Metropolitan. 
Its situation is at the remote part of the Perspective, and 
encloses in its precincts churches, towns, gardens and cloisters; 
it was founded by Peter, on the spot where the saint won a 
^reat battle, and here he lies interred. The church is very 
large, and its pillars are of fine marble ; and, although it has 
many adornments, it looked to me almost as dirty as the monks 
who were swarming round. The shrine of the saint is in a 
small chapel, and is of enormous value. The pyramid is said 
to weigh five thousand two hundred pounds of silver, and is 
fifteen feet high ; a silver chandelier here is exceedingly fine, 
but the other silver work is in bad taste. The chanting by the 
monks was very solemn, and the conduct of the worshippers ex- 
ceedingly devout. The Smolnoi Monastery I did not visit. The 
Sabbath day we passed in St. Petersburg, I attended morning 
service in the English church, — a ver}' fine building, — the 
church will accommodate some four or five hundred persons. It 
is the best edifice I have seen as yet, on the continent, for E^)is- 
copal services. The clergyman in charge is the Rev. Dr. Law, 
who has been settled there about thirty years. The congregation 
was respectable, but not as large as in winter, owing to the 
absence of many of his parishioners in their suburban retreats. 
The sermon was truly excellent, but rather a controversial one. 
The text was "The brightness of the Father's glory," The 
discourse was very much after the style of Bishop Ilorsley, and 
had some ingenuity ia its argument. The deportment of the 
12 



138 KESAN CATHEDRAL. 

audience was very devotional. There is also a Scotcli church in 
the city ; but I was not aware of it till Monday, or I should have 
been present part of the day. In the afternoon, at five o'clock, 
I went to the Kesan cathedral. This is a building in the form 
of a Greek cross, the arms of which are equal ; in the centre is a 
large dome, and at the ends four small pointed cupolas. The 
position of this cathedral is imposing ; it is on the Neffsky Per- 
spective, and stands finely back from the street. The great 
external feature is the colonnade, of vast Corinthian columns, 
forminor a serai-circle, and the end of which almost reaches to the 
houses on the street. Although the church, in its approach, dis- 
appointed me, yet I difi"er from those who censure this grand 
screen or colonnade. It strikes me as one of the sublimest pieces 
of architecture I am acquainted with. A walk under its lofty 
portico is no mean pleasure. In front of the cathedral are two 
fine statues of Kutuzofi" and Barclay de Tolly. The interior is 
certainly grand, but heavy. The pillars are fifty-eight in num- 
ber, if I reckoned correctly. The holy-place — the Ikonostast, 
where women never enter — has its beams, and what is usually 
wood-work, of solid silver. Every worshipper, I noticed, pur- 
chased a small taper of tallow or wax at the door ; and then, 
going up to the Lady shrine, bowing his head to the pavement, 
and crossing his breast, he lights his candle from an ever-burning 
holy lamp before the Virgin, and kisses the pavement. His 
candle he places in a silver plate, where are many others burning, 
und he proceeds to say his prayers ; and when he quits the sanc- 
tuary, it is with backward steps and repeated genuflections. In 
the Greek churches there are no images, but many pictures, and 
the Virgin is always adorned with gold and jewels. A diamond 
in the Virgin's crown, in this church, is the next in size to that 
on the emperor's regalia. I forgot to say that the pillars, and 
balustrades, and picture-frames of the Ikonostast, are all solid sil- 
ver, — the donation of the Cossacks to the holy mother of Kesan. 
At this shrine old Kutuzoff performed his .solemn act of 



ISAAC CHURCH. 139 

worship, before lie took command of the army in 1812. This 
church is adorned with military trophies in great plenty. I 
noticed some twenty French eagles, which were captured in 
Napoleon's great mistake — his Russian campaign. I was in- 
terested with the worship, which was even more gorgeous and 
formal than the rites of the Romish church. The chanting was 
very fine, and exceedingly solemn and impressive, without any 
musical accompaniment. All classes of society appeared among 
the worshippers, nor was there any lack of men. I saw nothing 
like want of thought or reverence, and I understand that all the 
duties of religion are urged upon the people by frequent visits 
at their own houses. The worship of the Virgin evidently 
prevails over that of her Son. 

In leaving this temple, I felt that it was not equal in solemn 
grandeur to many churches in Belgium and France. The next 
day, when I visited the Isaac church, now in process of erection, 
I had far diflferent emotions, and felt that here indeed was a 
fane worthy of its end and purpose. No man can fail to be 
impressed with this wonderful pile. The exquisite proportions 
of this church seem to diminish its apparent size. I have only 
to say that here are monoliths, of Finland marble, sixty feet high, 
forming perystiles of unsurpassed beauty ; and in the interior 
are columns of malachite, fifty feet high, which adorn the altars. 
Malachite, lapis-lazuli, porphyry and gold, all seem to vie with 
each other for the preeminence in this glorious pile. Long years 
have been devoted to this sanctuary, and very many more must 
elapse before it will be completed. The dome is grand, and the 
granite pillars around have a noble efiect. I think the Isaac 
church will take its rank with St. Peter's and Paul's cathe- 
dral ; but my own preference is to the Gothic style of architecture 
for such vast buildings. The facade, windows and pediments, 
are in the hands of French artists. The angel at the Saviour's 
tomb, and the female figures and afi"righted soldiers, tire repre- 
sented in gilt bronze figures, eight feet high, on one of the pedi- 



140 ISAAC CHUKCH. 

ments, and are beautlfal beyond description. The frescos on the 
dome are still in progress. The cupola is copper, richly gilt, 
and is surmounted by a small one, a miniature edition of the 
first; and ahove all is the golden symbol of the Christian faith. 
The malachite used for the holy of holies was given to the 
emperor by Count Demidofi', and its value is estimated at one 
million of rubles. St. Isaac happens to have his day in the 
calendar on the birth-day of Peter the Great, and so gets the 
patronage of this temple. 



CHAPTER IX. 

MAJOR TJ.OMPSON BROWN — DR0SKT3 WEDDING — GOSTINNOI DVOR 

STREETS MILITARY FAREWELL TO ST. PETETRSBURG RETURN TO 

THE YACHT VISITORS REGATTA CRONSTADT MR. WILKINS 

DANGEROUS POSITION VISIT FROM GRAND DUCHESS OP OLDENBURGH 

AND FAMILY STEAMBOAT PARTY AND IMPERIAL BAND THE EMPEROR 

— QUEEN DOWAGER OF HOLLAND — NARROW ESCAPE. 

It gave me great pleasure to meet in St. Petersburg with 
Major Thompson Brown, Consulting Engineer to the emperor. 
This accomplished gentleman and his excellent lady were my 
old friends and fellow-townspeople in Newport, and here I found 
them most happily situated. The position which this gentleman 
occupies is one of great responsibility, and brings him into 
frequent contact with the emperor and the officers of state. 
Major Brown resides a few miles out of the city, in a delight- 
ful^ country villa. I was on my way to visit him, when horse- 
flesh gave out, and I was reluctantly compelled to abandon the 
pleasure. I have been much amused with the drosky. This 
is the great carriage of the Russian everywhere. It has four 
wheels, and a long seat with a cushion ; this seat is quite low. 
It is usually drawn by two horses ; it has no top, and accommo- 
dates two persons, who have their feet on difierent sides of the 
seat. One horse is in the shafts, which are very strong, and made 
fast to the collar by leather thongs, and joined by a bow, four 
feet nigh, called a dooga, arching over the neck of the horse; at 
this point the traces start a foot back of the collar, rivetted to 
the shafts, and thence run to the axle outside the hubs of the 
front wheels. A stylish turn-out is a drosky, with one horse, a. 
12* 



142 DROSKYS — WEDDIXa. 

trotter, in the shifts, and a horse alongside in traces, made fast 
to a stationary bar, one end of which projects a couple of feet 
outside of the front end of the droskj. The rig of this horse is 
independsnt of the other, excepting his attachment, by an inside 
rein six feet long, to the saddle-girt of the shaft-horse. This 
rein enables him to travel at pleasure at an angle of about thirty 
degrees from the other, and he is kept at that angle by a rein 
from the outside of his bit running through a ring in his breech- 
ino: to the hands of his driver, who holds the reins for the shaft- 
horse and one for this side animal ; the particular department 
of which last one is to make a flourish, going on at a gallop, to 
which he has been trained, and swinging his head and neck, from 
the level of his body, towards the ground constantly. An extra 
flash establishment is with two outside prancers, one on either 
side the shaft-horse. This enables a fast trotter to travel with 
a galloping horse without discomfort to either, and produces no 
irregular motion in the vehicle. 

The horses in the city are very fine, and some of the carriage- 
horses are quite large, and of excellent action. The harnesses 
are all light, if we except the collar, and many of them are richly 
adorned with polished plates of silver and brass. 

On the Sabbath, which we spent in St. Petersburg, we foiy;jd 
a wedding-feast celebrated at our hotel ; and, in going to our 
dining-room at supper-tinle, the waiter took us through the room 
where the festivities were going on. Excellent music and spirited 
dancing seemed to have put the party into high spirits. 

Our purchases took us into every part of the city, and, of 
course, we visited the far-famed Gostinnoi Dvor. This is an 
immense bazaar, where everything you can fancy or wish 
for is exposed for sale. It is a wonderful structure, extend- 
ing through several streets, and reminded me of the great fairs 
which I remember in England in my early days, but which are 
now nearly abolished. The various trades are here found keep- 
ng company in their proper classes. The proprietors of these 



APPEARANCE OF THE CITY. 143 

booths and stalls are perfectly importunate, and not a queerer 
set of men have I often seen. They stand waiting at their 
doors, and are as ready to solicit custom as a Chatham-street son 
of Abraham. On many of these stores I noticed a paltry picture 
of some saint, and in front of it a little lamp, burning. Here we 
bought boots, slippers, shoes, cushions, mats; and some of the 
ladies made expensive investments in sables, ermines, and other 
furs. On the Saturday we saw a great many of these shops 
closed, and the doors fastened with a string, and red seal upon 
it. Mr. Evans informed us that the Jews considered this a more 
secure fastening than the strongest lock, to protect their property. 
The engravings which we selected were very expensive, and were 
all of them executed in Paris, and when in that city I found it 
impossible to obtain them. In all parts of the city we found men 
vending tea and ice-water, quass, and other refreshments. We 
noticed, on three occasions, a large, shut-up, dark-looking carriage, 
with no windows, and door locked, escorted by twelve or sixteen 
soldiers. These were prisoners on their way to justice, or about to 
go oflF to Siberia, the great Botany Bay of the empire. I was 
much pleased with the fruit-stalls and shops, and have rarely 
seen finer fruit. The apples were the choicest specimens I could 
desire ; but, having been brought from the southern provinces, and 
kept through the winter, were extravagantly high in price. The 
e^'^g-plums, apricots, grapes and melons, were all fine ; but very 
costly, as we found out at a dessert ordered at our hotel. The 
bird bazaar is an extraordinary spot, and will well repay a visit. 
Here are linnets, goldfinches, bulfinches and nightingales, and 
many other birds with which I was unacquainted. 

The general appearance of what we have seen in St. Petei*»- 
burg has pleased me exceedingly. Here is a capital that may 
vie with any in Earope for splendor and magnificence ; and it 
evidently bears the impress of firmness, and promises to become 
second in grandeur to no other metropolis. The streets present 
a gay appeq-raace, paiated white, yellow, and light-green. The 



144 GOSTINNOI DVOR — FRUITS, ETC. 

spires, domes, and facades of churches and palaces, are seen 
thickly grouped, and the canals are wide and river-like, and 
sweep round with much beauty ; and then the glorious Neva 
adorns the city far more than the Thames or Seine does London 
or Paris. The streets, too, are well planted with trees. I do 
not well understand where the poor reside, as there seem to be 
no lanes, courts or alleys ; all is wide, spacious street. I imagine 
that they live in cellars, and burrow under shops and the mansions 
of the wealthy. The roofs of churches and the rest of the build- 
ing often have little agreement, and styles of architecture are 
strangely jumbled together, — Grecian fagades, and Oriental, 
onion-shaped domes and cupolas. The police are dressed in the 
plainest garb, a drab long coat ; one of this body is at every 
corner, armed with a desperate-looking axe. The military ap- 
pear in the streets in considerable strength. The men seem to me 
rather like machines, — no force of expression. The most of 
them are en rmite for the south and the disputed provinces. The 
music of the bands was very good. The serfs, who are so nu- 
merous, come every spring from the country ; each has to obtain 
a permit. In the autumn these men return with their small 
earnings. No small income accrues to the government from the 
payment on these permits to come and go. In all parts of the 
city I have seen vast flocks of pigeons. These birds are held in 
sacred estimation, because the dove is the scriptural emblem of 
the third person of the holy Trinity. 

I imagine that the population of this city is not far from six 
hundred and fifty thousand. I was informed by a medical gen- 
tleman, long resident in Russia, that the mortality is great, and 
is unfavorable in comparison with other capitals of Europe. 

We were all sorry when we had to bid adieu to this city of 
palaces, magnificent churches, and golden domes and spires. We 
cast one more look on that unrivalled square, a glance at the 
equestrian bronze, another at the ever-present admiralty spire, 
%nd we were on board the little steamer to take us to our noble 



VISITORS TO THE YACHT — REGATTA. 145 

ship. On getting on board the passage-boat, we met a goodly 
number ot* our friends to accompany us to Cronstadt ; among 
them were Major Brown and his charming daughters, Mr. and 
Mrs. Evans, 3Ir. BoJisco, a Russian officer, and nephew of the 
minister from Russia to our country, and where our valued 
young friend has passed many years of his boyhood. We soon 
arrived at the yacht, and the day was spent most delightfully 
with our friends, to whom we had the happiness to receive an 
addition, in the company of Mr. and Mrs. Ropes, Mr. and Mrs. 
Prince, Mr. Endicot, of Boston, and several very agreeable and 
interesting; Ensflish ladies, and also a number of French and 
Russian ladies and gentlemen, who came down in a charming 
little steamer, chartered for the occasion. Several of these little 
boats visited us during our anchorage, and hundreds of persons 
inspected the yacht with evident pleasure. More than once we 
had two steamers at once alongside. Mr. James Thall, a gentle- 
man of great literary acquirements, and a remarkably good 
linguist, who had a country residence at Peterhoff, and paid 
members of our party polite attentions, came, with his family, in a 
fairy steamer. Amongst the numerous visitors at difierent times 
to the North Star, were Admiral Glassenapp, Prince Witgen- 
stein, and Admiral Richord, the ex-Governor of Kamtschatka, an 
aged gentleman, of great good sense and tact. He examined 
everything carefully, and Mr. Vanderbilt was very much pleased 
with his visit. He is in command of the navy at Cronstadt. 

Whilst we were lying at anchor, we had the pleasure to 
witness the annual yacht regatta. The prize, I believe, was a 
silver cup, given by the emperor. We saw the vessels return 
from the race of some seventy miles, and they all passed close to 
us. Some of them were very pretty schooners, and one noble 
one was evidently of English build, and had a happy-looking S(;t 
of Eiljli!^hulen on board. Mr. Buird's boat took the prize, if I 
remember rightly. We had, in our numerous parties who came 
on board, several treats in th»- efforts of ladies and gentlemen on 



146 RUSSIAN -UNCH — ROYAL VISITORS. 

the noble piano whicli adorned our saloon. One of these gentle- 
men had the reputation of being the best pianist of the city. 

In our visits to Cronstadt, we had much polite and friendly 
kindness from Mr. Wilkins, the partner of the American vice- 
consul, Mr. Rowe. At Mr. Wilkins' hospitable abode Captain 
Eldridge, his lady, and a few of us, partook of an elegant lunch, 
which we shall often think of with pleasure. Here we partook 
of a variety of Russian luxuries, which we had not met with in 
the hotels. Such sweetmeats I never tasted. They were of 
various kinds ; and one, made of berries, we thought superior to 
the strawberry. Caviare and mushrooms were on the table in 
perfection. At our request, we were treated to a taste of the 
national beverage, quass, and a very small taste sufficed ; a more 
villanous compound I never tasted. The attentions of Mr. 
Wilkins and his family were constant. Our purchases in Cron- 
gtadt were chiefly Russian robes, Kezan soap, and shoes. 

In going on shore on this occasion, with the captain, we nearly 
met with an accident. We proposed to go through the Merchant 
Dock, and it is so crowded as to make it a difficult navigation. 
Our boat got jammed between two vessels in motion, and such a 
cracking as the ribs of our gig made proved the sense she felt of 
injury. Luckily, one of the vessels yawed off, or we shQuld have 
been crushed most certainly. 

We noticed a steamer alongside, with an evidently distin- 
guished party of visitors, — one of the gentlemen in full dress, 
and wearing the broad ribbon of a field-marshal. As soon as 
the visitors came on the quarter-deck, they announced them- 
selves, and we had the honor to welcome the Grand Duchess of 
Oldenburgh, the niece of the Czar, and her family of seven chil- 
dren, attended by their tutors and governesses. The gentleman 
in charge of them was Field-marshal Toltog. As soon as the 
duchess came on board, she asked me if I knew her " very dear 
friend, good Dr. Baird, of New York," of whom she spoke in 
terms of the warmest friendship and respect ; and also of other 



STEAMBOAT VISIT AT NIGHT. 147 

ministers, whom he had, she said, so kindly commended to her 
acquaintance. This lady speaks English fluently, and is, beyond 
all doubt, a decidedly Christian character. The party remained 
on board two or three hours, partook of refreshments, and were 
very much gratified. The daughter of the princess was a charm- 
ing girl of about fifteen, very intelligent, and simple in her 
manners. The duchess, at leaving, begged me, if ever I revis- 
ited St. Petersburg, to report myself at once at her palace. All 
the members of her suite were English, and appeared to be pious 
people. On the evening before we sailed, we saw a steamer 
approaching from St. Petersburg, with streamers flying, and a 
band of music playing. As soon as she came up, we found that 
Major Brown, his lady and daughters, Mr. and Mrs. Ropes, and 
a numerous party of friends, had come down to take a farewell, 
and had brought with them the imperial band, the finest in Russia. 
This was an unexpected gratification, for which we were indebted 
to Major Brown. Mrs. Brown and I had a long talk over our 
old friends in Newport, and her deep interest in them led to a 
very protracted chat, during which the party, under the fine 
awning of our spacious quarter-deck, had been busily engaged in 
waltzing to music which is rarely equalled. Refreshments were 
brought to the company, and the band played Hail Columbia, 
God save the Queen, and The Emperor's March ; and then, amid 
a display of rockets and blue lights from the North Star, and 
nine hearty cheers from both boats, our kind friends " all went 
home in the morning," — for it was one o'clock when they cast 
off. The player on the clarinet had recently received a diamond 
ring from the emperor, as an award of distinguished skill as a 
performer. 

Our great regret at leaving Russia is not having seen the 
great, and, I believe, good man, the emperor, who has done so 
much to elevate the condition of the masses in his extensive 
dominions, and to improve the entire country. I leave Rus- 
sia with exalted opinions of the wisdom and patriotism of the 



148 THE CZAR — NARROW ESCAPE. 

emperor, and doubt not that, if his life be spared, Russi 
will continue to advance in all that makes a country great and 
powerful and happy. I have heard anecdotes in plenty respect- 
ing the Czar, and all of them reflect great honor upon the quali- 
ties of his head and heart ; but I do not feel that 1 am at liberty 
to state them in this public manner, as they were related to me 
in the social circle, by men who are favorably situated to know 
their truth. Some of our party saw the emperor at the church 
of the palace, at PeterhoiF; but I spent that Sabbath in the city. 
Had we remained a day or two longer, we should have seen 
the emperor on board ; but his time and thoughts had all been 
engrossed with the pressing aflfairs of the great vexed question 
between Russia and Turkey. 

Our steam was now up, and just as we were weighing anchor 
a steamer hove in sight, adorned with flags and streamers ; but 
she was too late ; the North Star was under weigh, and close by 
us was an English steamer, bound to London, having on board 
the Dowager Queen of Holland, who has been making a short vi&it 
to her brother, the Czar. 

Just as we were leaving the guard-ship, we were all much 
excited by a cry that a small boat was run over by our wheels. 
We flocked to the guards, and then found that a boat, with two 
boys and a man, from one of the neighboring ships, had got so 
close to our steamer that, in fright, one boy had jumped out of 
the boat, and was hanging on to the iron braces that support the 
guards. We stopped the yacht, and rescued the boy, who looked 
thoroughly scared; he was a fine-looking youth of sixteen, and 
hailed from Scotland. We were now ofi"; and shall we ever 
again witness such sunsets, such evenings, such nights, as we 
have here enjoyed for the last few days ? 



CHAPTER X. 



WALDSEN'S CHRIST AND HIS APOSTLES THE SCULPTOR ROSENBERGH 

PALACE ITS RICH COLLECTIONS OP ART COINS AND MEDALS PARK 

STATUARY COUNTRY EXCHANGE GALLERIES AMALIENBORQ 

PLADS SONG OF THE WATCHMAN. 

We left Russia June 29, — weather fine. The 30th, the wind 
was strong and ahead, and more sea on than we had yet experi- 
enced. In the Baltic, the ship pitched considerably. 

Friday, July 1st, — calm, — we again went along quietly, and 
with only two boilers. At ten o'clock p. m., we passed Born- 
holm, a Danish island, eighty miles from Copenhagen, and at 
half-past five in the morning were anchored off the city ; and, 
after a hasty breakfast, went on shore in our own boats, deter- 
mined to improve the day, as we were limited to five o'clock in 
the afternoon. 

Copenhagen, the capital of the kingdom of Denmark, is situ- 
ated on the eastern coast of the island of Zealand, at the south- 
ern extremity of a channel connecting the Cattegat with the 
Baltic, — this is called the Sound, — and partly on the north 
coast of the small island of Amager, or, as it is often called, 
Amak. The situation is favorable for commerce. The city is 
enclosed by ramparts, and is defended by several bastions and 
outworks, and, towards the sea, by a strong citadel ; and powerful 
batteries command the entrance to the harbor. These forts are 
called the Three Crowns. The navy-yard is in front of the city, 
at the upper end of Amak, and appears to be in excellent con- 
dition, with immense store and ship houses. Here are several 
fine ships-of-the-line and frigates. The port is formed by an 
13 



150 

arm of the sea, and is capable of accommodating five hundred 
ships besides the navy ; and, by canals, the shipping can pass 
into the town. 

The aspect of Copenhagen from the sea is fine, and the palace 
spires and church steeples have a pretty effect. The climate is 
damp, and the bills of mortality are not favorable to its reputa- 
tion for health. The cholera had just broken out here as we 
arrived, and its ravages were awful for the next six weeks, and 
gave a larger amount of deaths, in proportion to the population, 
than had before occurred in its history in Europe. 

The population is one hundred and thirty-four thousand, of 
which about two thousand five hundred are Jews. The streets 
are in poor condition. The shops, with a few exceptions, are 
poor ; the women were gayly dressed, and I noticed many in red 
apparel, with very handsomely -worked caps. The government is, 
since 1848, a constitutional monarchy, and the religion is Lu- 
theran, and toleration given to other creeds ; but, strange as it 
seems, certificates of baptism, confirmation and vaccination, are 
necessary to apprenticeship and marriage ! I never found so 
many persons before in a foreign country who spoke English. 
We secured a good guide in a man who had formerly served my 
valued friend, Grovernor Arnold, of Rhode Island, in the same 
capacity, when he made an extended visit to the North Cape. I 
called on our United States Charge d'Affaires, to whom I had 
letters of introduction ; but he was absent from the city ; and 
this, too, was unfortunately the case with Professor Rafn, the 
great northern antiquarian, to whom I had a letter from the 
Hon. J. E,. Bartlett, the commissioner for the United States in 
the Mexican boundary affair. This was a severe disappointment, 
as I longed to see the great museum of northern antiquities, 
which was closed, but which I should have probably seen had 
this learned man been at home. 

Our first visit was paid to the Thorwaldsen Museum, which 
is a very spacious and striking building, behind the royal chapel. 



151 

The style of architecture is Egyptian, and it is two hundred and 
thirty feet long, one hundred and twenty-five broad, forty-six 
high, and has two stoves. The exterior is decorated with Tus- 
can paintings m reference to the great artist. On the building 
stands a chariot of victory, drawn by four horses ; this is exe- 
cuted in bronze. The interior apartments are painted in the 
Pompeiiau style, in most glaring colors, and the work has been 
done by the ablest artists, as an afiair of love. In the centre of 
the building is an open court, and here is the simple tomb of the 
immortal sculptor. The lower story of the museum is occupied 
with his works, and the upper one contains his collections of art, 
and his fine painting. Among so many glorious productions of 
art, it would be difficult to make a selection for special praise ; 
but the last group of the Graces, the Shepherd Boy, Ganymede 
and the Eagle, Cupid and Psyche, are my favorites. 

The bas-reliefs are very numerous, and attracted my eye as 
much as the statuary ; and of these I prefer Alexander's Entry 
into Babylon, Night and Day, and some of which I shall speak 
hereafter. Well may the city be proud of this matchless collec- 
tion of one life-long labor. I should much enjoy a week or 
two in this place, if it were only to aff"ord a careful study of 
these noble productions. 

From this museum we repaired to the Fruekirke, or Church 
of our Lady, which is the cathedral church of Copenhagen. It 
was completed in 1829, and is a tame building, with a Doric por- 
tico, and has no claim to notice beyond the fact that it is the 
depository of the master-works of Thorwaldsen. Here is his 
Christ and the Apostles. The very first object that arrests your 
eye on entrance is the vast statue of the Bedeemer, just at the 
rear of the altar. Before the altar stands a fount of marble, 
which is a Concha in the hands of a kneeling angel. We were 
told that the first child that was christened here was one of Pro- 
fessor Bissen's ; Thorwaldsen stood sponsor, and the king and 
queen were present. Around this beautiful angel is a needle- 



152 CHRIST AND HIS APOSTLES — THE SCULPTOR. 

worked carpet, presented by Madame Bissen. The apostles 
stand on the sides of the church, on pedestals four or five feet 
high. They are the most wondrous creations of art, and in pure 
marble of Carrara. They far transcend the idea which is 
obtained by one who looks merely at the casts. Judas was 
rejected by the sculptor, and Paul was substituted. The 
James is a charming figure, and so is Thomas ; and, indeed, so I 
say of them all. These were all executed at Rome, where the 
artist spent a large portion of his life. We saw the favorite 
seat of the artist, when he attended this church ; it was directly 
under the statue of James. 

In front of this church, on the pediment, there is a group, in 
terra cotta, of sixteen figures, made by Thorwaldsen; it repre- 
sents John preaching in the wilderness. This is a work alone 
sufficient to give fame to a man. In the portico, is a bas-relief 
of Christ's entrance into Jerusalem ; and inside, one of Child- 
hood's Guardian Angel on the right hand, and on the left. Chris- 
tian Charity. A bas-relief behind the altar represents Christ on 
his way to Calvary ; and in the confessionals are others of 
Baptism and the Last Supper. 

Thorwaldsen was a native of Copenhagen. He went to study 
at Rome in 1796, and was first brought into reputation by Mr. 
Thomas Hope, who engaged him on the far-famed Jason. In 
1819, when he visited Denmark, he was honored by all classes 
in the kingdom, and his fame was regarded as part of the na- 
tional glory. He attained a good old age, and died lamented by 
his king and fellow-subjects. A bust of Byron, by this sculptor, 
is the property of Dr. Geo. Hayward, of Boston. This city is 
famous for its statuettes of Thorwaldsen's great works ; but they 
are almost as expensive as they are beautiful. We obtained a 
few, as recollections of the place and artist. Thorwaldsen's por- 
trait by Horace Vernet, his friend, bears a very strong resem- 
blance to the late venerable Rev. Dr. Peirce, of Brookline, 
Ma'is. 



PALACE OF ROSENBERGH. 153 

We now proceeded to visit the Palace of Rosenbergh. This 
is a Gothic structure, of brick, with stone cappings, having a large 
tower to the west, two smaller ones to the east, each of which 
has a spire, and then a small tower between the two last, without 
a spire ; and it is in this tower that the entrance to the palace 
is placed. Inigo Jones is said to have designed the building. 
This ancient residence of the Kings of Denmark has always been 
a popular show-spot with travellers, on account of its being a 
sort of gallery for the illustration of the national history. It 
dates its glories back to the days of its founder, Christian IV., 
who made it his constant abode, and filled it with works of art. 
The rooms in this palace are mostly small ; some few are very 
spacious, and richly adorned. But it is all crowded with curios- 
ities. Certain old ladies, who love old china, would go into 
ecstasies if they could see the antiquities of the celestial empire, 
Dresden and Sevre, in this particular department. Old cabinets, 
secretaries, tables, chairs, mirrors, are here in profusion ; and 
they are of the costliest kind, and in grand preservation. I 
noticed silver andirons, that weighed at least a hundred-weight 
each; silver candelabra ten feet high, with twenty-four branches ; 
four silver lions, large as life, and well executed ; — these are 
guardians of the throne-room. The drinking-horns of the old 
northern magnates were very curious, and indicated that they 
drank deeply into some things. Here, too, is the far-famed sad- 
dle, and caparison for a horse, presented by Christian IV. to his 
son on his marriage, in 1664. This is literally covered with 
rubies, pearls, emeralds and diamonds, and the ground-work is 
heavy Genoa velvet, and was made in Paris, and must have been 
an expensive present. The throne-room is called the Riddersal, 
and the throne is massive silver. The tapestry of this room is 
very beautiful, and is descriptive of Christian's battles. 

The collection of coins and medals is regarded as one of the 
finest in Europe, and would amply repay a careful study. J 
have never met with so intelligent and competent a guide as the 
13^ 



154 PALACE-GROUNDS — EXCHANGE. 

gentleman who shows this palace. The gardens around the pal- 
ace are remarkably fine and park-like, and situated in the centre 
of the city. They justify the pride and warm attachment of the 
good citizens. The noble old trees, flourishing shrubs and flowers, 
with very wide walks, make this a most agreeable promenade ; 
and we saw a large number of children, under the eye of parents 
and nurses, enjoying the fine day, as we walked through the 
garden. In the centre, densely surrounded by venerable elms, 
oaks, &c., is a large circular basin, and in the middle of this is a 
bronze group, — a boy seated on a swan, — and from which 
issues a jet of water. In a pavilion, at the termination of a fine 
avenue, is a bronze group, of either Hercules or Samson, tearing 
open the jaws of a lion. This is a spirited work. There are 
also a few marble statues. I think these grounds must cover 
twenty or thirty acres. I very much regretted that we were 
unable to ride out to the far-famed beech woods ; but we were 
forced to be contented with a charming ride through the Lange 
Linie, which is a noble promenade. We went a mile or two into 
the country to see some pretty villas, and were much pleased with 
the most extensive tea-garden building that I recollect ever to 
have seen. The country houses were very neat, and the out- 
premises and gardens kept in good order. 

The Exchange is a remarkable edifice, and was built by Chris- 
tian IV. It is four hundred and six feet long, and sixty-six 
wide. It has a commanding entrance, with marble pillars, and 
two statues, representing Neptune and Mercury. The building 
is one hundred and seventy-six feet high, and is celebrated for 
its spire, formed of four dragons, whose heads point north, south, 
east and west, and their bodies are twisted together till their tails 
come to a point at the summit of the spire. 

Few cities have finer museums, galleries of art, &c., than 
Copenhagen. We were sadly unfortunate in not being able to 
gain access to the royal gallery of paintings, and the northern 
antiquities. The paintings in this gallery number nearly two 



AGREEABLE INCIDENT — SONG OF THE WATCHMAN. 155 

thousand, and the collection is rich in the Flemish and Dutch 
schools. But here is Salvator Rosa's noblest picture, — and this 
I did long to see, — "Jonah preaching to the Ninevites." The 
library, too, with its fine collection of prints, inferior only to the 
library of Paris, and, perhaps, Berlin, was also closed this day. 
In this library are very valuable MSS,, both Icelandic and 
Oriental. 

We were all much pleased with the Amalienborg Plads, — a 
fine octagon, formed by four palaces, of equal size and similar 
construction. In its centre is an equestrian statue of Frederic Y. 

It was my happiness to meet in Copenhagen with a lady from 
New York, a near relative of Mrs. Choules ; and our thus meet- 
ing, so far away from home and family, was an agreeable inci- 
dent. Our researches were now brought to a termination by a 
terrible storm of hail, thunder and lightning; and we afterwards 
found that, on the same day, the great hail-storm was experienced 
in New York. 

Here we parted from our young friend Allen, who was to pro- 
ceed from this city, by way of Kiel and Hamburg, to Leipsic, 
and resume his studies. We found a fine supply of strawberries 
in Copenhagen, and the people afraid to use them, owing to the 
existence of cholera. 

I think it may be well to insert here a literal translation of 
the 

SONG OF THE WATCHMAN.* 

EIGHT o'clock. 

When day departs, and darkness reigns on earth, 
The scene reminds us of the gloomy grave ! 
Then let Thy light, Lord ! before us shine, 
While to the silent tomb our steps "we bend ; 
And grant a blessed immortality ! 

* This hi dt of announcing the hours is still kept up in this city. 



156 SONG OF THE WATCHMAN. 

NINE o'clock. 

The day glides by, and sable Niglit appears. 
For Jesus' sake, God, oiir sins forgive I 

Preserve tlie royal family ; 
And guard the people which this land contains 

From danger of the Enemy 1 

TEN o'clock. 
Master, maid and boy, — would you the hour know ? 
It is the time that you to rest should go. 
Trust in the Lord with faith, and careful be 
Of fir-e and light, — for Ten o'clock has struck ! 

ELEVEN o'clock. 

Almighty God protects both great and small ! 
His holy angels guard us like a waH ! 
The Lord himself our city watches o'er, 
And keeps our bodies and our souls from harm. 

TWEL\T3 o'clock. 

At the hour of midnight was our Saviour born ; 
Great blessing to a world which else were lost ! 
Then, with unfeigned lips, in prayer and praise, 
Commend yourselves to God. — Past Twelve o'clock 

one o'clock. 
0, Jesu Christ ! we pray thee send us help 
To bear our cross with patience in the world, 

For Thou art God alone I 
And Thou, Comforter ! Thine hand stretch forth ; 
Then will the burden light and easy be ! 

The clock has stricken One ! 

TWO o'clock. 
0, gracious Lord ! whose love for us was such 
That Thou shouldst deign in darkness* to be born ; 
All glory 's due to Thee I 

* Oboctu'ity. 



SONG OF THE WATCHMAN. 157 

Come, Holy Ghost ! and pour into our hearts 
Thy heavenly light, that we may see Thee now, 
And in eternity ! 

THKEB o'clock. 

Black Night departs, and Day begins to dawn. 
Keep them far off, God, who wish us harm 1 

The clock has stricken Three ! 
Father, Thine aid we seek ! — and of Thy grace 

Give us abundantly ! 

FOUR o'clock. 

Eternal God I who wouldst the keeper be 

Of us who dwell below, — 
To Thee, surrounded by the heavenly host, 

Honor and praise are due ! 
For this good night give thanks unto the Lord ! 
Remember, " Four ! " — we 're summoned from our guard, 

FIVE o'clock. 

Jesu ! Thou ]Morning Star ! we now resign 
To Thy protection, cheerfully, our king. 

Be Thou his sun and shield ! 
And thou, bright orb of day ! begin thy course, 
And, rising from the Mercy-seat of God, 

Thy radiant lustre yield ! 



CHAPTER XI, 

OFF FOR HAVRE SCENERY OF THE SOUND ISLE OF HUEN TTCHO BRAH^ 

NORWAY AND SWEDEN — GODWIN SANDS LIGHT-SHIP DOVER AND 

WALIVIER CASTLES HAVRE STEAMER FRANKLIN SIR. VESEY, U. S. 

CONSUL THE TOWN — HISTORICAL INCIDENTS INGOUVILLE LEAVE 

FOR PARIS ROUEN, POISSY, ETC. 

We now see the English steamer, with the Queen of Holland 
on board, — which left St. Petersburg in company with us, — 
just heaving in sight. Thus we beat her twelve hours ! 

At about six o'clock we got up steam, and were once more 
under way ; and now we are heading for Havre. The heavy 
storm, which lasted for an hour or more, had cleared the atmo- 
sphere, and we saw two most beautiful and clearly-defined rain- 
bows spanning the sound from Copenhagen to the Swedish 
coast opposite ; and the width of the sound here is about twenty 
miles ; but the distance grows less very fast as we proceed to 
Elsinore. We all kept our eyes upon the retiring city, in which 
we had passed a very pleasant, and, I am sure, a very profitable 
day. The coasts on either side are lovely, and the Swedish is in 
many places quite bold. The village of Landscrona shows up 
from the shore. On the Danish coast the scenery is very attract- 
ive, and presents a pleasing variety of lawns, orchards, farms, 
villas and forests. On our sail we came close by the small island 
of Huen, where the illustrious Tycho Brahe lived, and where he 
made his famous astronomical researches. It lisi near to the 
coast of Sweden, and has a slight elevation, on which he built his 
observatory, in which he was nobly assisted by the King of 
Denmark. 



TYCHO BRAKE — SCENERY — STORM. 159 

Tycho Brahc was born in 1546, and was educated in Copen- 
hagen, and, after spending some years in Germany, he returned, 
in 1571 ; but again visited Germany in 1575. He was induced 
to settle in Denmark by the extreme liberality of Frederick II., 
and rfeceived this island as a gift ; and on it he spent vast sums 
of money, in the erection of costly buildings. He outlived his 
patron, and found less favor from his successor. Christian IV. 
He died, in 1601, in Prague, whither he had retired, by the 
invitation of the Emperor Rudolph. Never could the noble 
fortress of Kronburgh Castle be seen to finer advantage than as 
we swept by it. The evening was very clear, and its bold towers 
were defined most accurately against the azure sky. The stand- 
ard of Denmark was floating from its flag-stafi", and the light- 
house, in one of the turrets of the castle, looked cheerful, as it 
was kindled up soon after we passed it. We watched the grand 
old fortress as long as it remained in sight, and spent a pleasant 
evening on deck. The Sunday, however, proved squally, and 
we had rather an unpleasant day, but observed our regular ser- 
vice in the saloon. In the morning we had some good views of 
the coast of Norway and Sweden, as we passed the Cattegat, and 
rounded the Skaw, getting into the Skagerack. We saw several 
ships, apparently bound into Christiansand. The sea was, how- 
ever, rougher than we had yet had it on our voyage. At two 
p. M. the breeze had freshened up, and the waves were high. 
We were now off the lee-shore of the mouth of the Sleive, about 
six miles distant. From two to six we only made twelve or fifteen 
miles. At ten p. m. the gale abated, and the ship made good way 
through the night ; but the fog was as dense as I ever saw. 

July 4. — The sea was yeasty, and the day very uncomfort- 
able ; the smoking-room deserted, but only two persons decidedly 
sick. The arrangements for celebrating the day fell through ; 
and at dinner we talked patriotically, and did as a great many 
of our friends at home were doing. 

July 5. — I have already spoken of the thick weather we met 



160 WALMER CASTLE — HAVRE. 

with ; but it had little effect in delaying the voyage, or hindering 
our exact course, and the abilities of our accomplished com- 
mander were only made the more apparent. I shall not soon 
forget the satisfaction with which he made the light-ship on the 
Godwin Sands, after the thickest fog, coming down directly upon 
her, according to his prediction. I have never felt such abiding 
confidence in any man's judgment as in that of Captain Eldridge. 
All his movements are in exact unison with his statements made 
beforehand, and he exhibits that perfect acquaintedness with his 
profession which inspires confidence in the breast of every person 
around. 

The sea had gone down, but the wind was ahead. At one 
o'clock p. M., we passed close by the clifis of Dover, and had a 
fine view of Walmer Castle, where England's duke was conquered 
by the only enemy that ever vanquished him. The sight of 
Walmer brought to our remembrance those beautiful lines of 
Longfellow, called " The Warden of the Cinque Ports." I found 
in England the opinion was general, that Longfellow's was the 
noblest tribute which the death of Wellington had called out, 
and this piece is thought quite equal to Campbell's best pieces. 
We stood in, to have a near view of Dover and the fine coast ad- 
jacent. The town extends along under the stupendous cliifs. We 
had a fine afternoon to thread through the channel, and obtained 
pleasant glimpses of the English coast. We arrived off Havre 
at night, but lay to for morning light ; and, besides, we could 
not enter the dock gates till nine o'clock. As we approached 
the gates in the morning, we found thousands of people gathered 
around to see the steamer Franklin depart on her homeward 
voyage. We instantly saluted her, which compliment she 
returned, and Captain Wotton very politely stopped his engine 
to receive our letters for home.^ After giving her three hearty 

* We all had our fears tliat we had missed the mail for New York, and 
were sad enough to see the steamer fairly under way; but Captain Eldridge 
told us that he knew her captain was by all odds too noble a man to disap- 



CONSUL VESEY. 161 

cheers, which were reciprocated bj her passengers, she went on 
her voyage, and we entered the great port of the Seine ; and a 
more beautiful sight is not often witnessed than the docks and 
banks thronged with citizens, who were having a double gratifi- 
cation ; they came out to see an American steamer go away, and, 
unexpectedly, they found a still nobler one coming in to occupy 
her place. Out of the vast concourse I soon singled out my 
friend Mr. Vesey, the recentlj^-appointed consul at Havre, and 
he was the first on board to greet our arrival. It would be a 
happy thing for the American tourist, if at every foreign port he 
could meet with such a representative of his country ; but this 
is too much to expect. It is enough to say that a more thorough 
gentleman and warmer-hearted man than Mr. Yesey cannot be 
found ; and his appointment to this valuable and important post 
reflects honor on President Pierce's administration ; while the 
retention of Mr. Vesey as consul at Antwerp, despite his politics, 
was one of the many acts which adorned the official career of 
that pure patriot and enlightened statesman, Millard Fillmore. 
Mr. Yesey and our American fellow-citizens resident in Havre 
were much gratified at our arrival, and felt proud of their country 
when they saw this noble specimen of naval architecture, and the 
property of a private American citizen, and could point to her 
owner as a merchant prince, who, by the force of character 
and enterprise, had made his way from obscurity to a place 
beside the noblest and wealthiest of the old countries of Europe. 
We were gratified to notice a large number of noble ships bearing 
the starry banner of freedom. Several of their commanders 
soon came on board, and with them my good friend Captain 
Wood, of the packet-ship Germania, and his excellent wife, and 
their little girl. The entrance to the docks is fine, and the 

point his countrymen, and assured us that we were all right. " I know 
him," said Eldridge, " and, my word for it, Wotton will come to." The pre- 
diction was verified, and our friends at home owed their letters to the kind- 
heartedness of the captain of the Franklin. 

14 



162 HAVRE — HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. 

appearance of the old portion of the town, its vast amount /f 
shipping, its venerable fort, and high hills off to the right, and 
covered with villas overhanging the town, is one not soon to be 
forgotten by a stranger who gazes at it. On our left was 
the charming Marine Hotel of Frescati, with its garden and 
bathing-ground directly in front. Havre is comparatively a 
modern city; it was established as a town by Francis I., in 
1516, who built the ancient tower at the left bank of the port. 
The present population is about eighty thousand, and it is now 
in a career of rapid progress and improvement. The docks are- 
large, finely built, and numerous. Hundreds of men are now at 
work on a dry dock of large dimensions. The importance of 
this place is at once seen by reference to the map of France, 
when its relations to Paris and Rouen, as a port of entry, will 
appear. The large number of Americans, resident and sea- 
faring, to be met in the streets, renders it a pleasant spot to the 
wanderer from his own happy home in the far west. Havre is 
rich, too, in its historical associations. It was from this place 
that the Earl of Richmond sailed when he went to England to 
contest its crown with the hunchbacked Richard, in 1485. It 
was here, too, that the gallant Sir Sidney Smith, the hero of 
Acre, was captured by the gun-boats in 1796, when he had 
grounded upon a sand-bank in an elFort to cut out a French 
frigate. In Havre was born the famous St. Pierre, who wrote 
the charming tale of Paul and Virginia. Havre has nine quays, 
and a vast number of public fountains. The church of Notre 
Dame is not at all remarkable, but has a fine organ, which was 
the gift of Cardinal Richelieu. The Palais de Justice is a plain 
edifice. The Ursuline Convent is a large building, and the nuns 
are engaged in the education of young ladies ; and very often 
English girls are placed here, under the preposterous idea that 
these ignorant women can enlighten them. What Protestant, 
with his eyes open, would trust his daughter to the care of 
women who believe that there is no salvation out of the Church 



INGOUVILLE — AMERICAN RESIDENTS. 163 

of Rome, and, if honest, must therefore take every opportunity 
to make proselytes of the children under their injfluence ? We 
took carriages to explore the town, and, after riding through its 
principal streets, many of which are very good, we ascended 
one, which, after an ascent of half a mile, through a road which 
presented the noblest stone walls we ever saw of similar extent, 
we arrived at the Cote, where, on a vast elevation, are the exqui- 
site residences of the wealthy. I think this part of the town is 
called Ingouville. Here are terraces, gardens and pleasure- 
grounds, laid out in the most tasteful manner. Homes of greater 
beauty are nowhere to be seen. I think it would be hard to 
meet with sweeter models for country residences ; and as for the 
gardens, trees, shrubs and flowers, now all in gayest garniture 
and brightest bloom, they are types of Eden. I visited an 
American lady, whose house is on this paradisiacal spot, and, as 
I gazed on her beauteous Yankee children and saw the elegant 
associations of her foreign home, I rejoiced at the comforts which 
alleviate her absence from early friends and the haunts of child- 
hood. Her husband met us at his gate, and we thought that, 
with such a home, such a family, and a prosperous business, Mr. 

C e must be a happy man. I longed to visit Harfleur, once 

a Roman station, and long. in the possession of the English ; but 
time forbade me. All around I could see that beauty invited 
me to become a wayside wanderer. I yearned to ramble over to 
Tancarville, on the Seine, about twenty miles off, and where I 
know, from the accounts of early friends, there are charming 
ruins and the most enchanting views. It was at Tancarville that 
the Meluns, the Harcourts, and the Dunois, became the worthy 
successors of the Chamberlaines, the fellow-warriors of Williau 
the Conqueror. 

It was a boyish notion of mine to walk through Normandy ; 
and there are few things I would like better than to spend three 
or four months in such a pilgrimage, even now. These walking 
tours are, after all, the thing to make a man know a country, and 



164 DEPARTURE FOR PARIS — POISSY. 

remem'jer it forever. Give me the treasures which it affords to 
memcry, the play it gives to imagination, the illustrations it 
contributes to historical association, and I will let who may 
choose it travel by railroad speed through a land, and know 
nothing that is valuable, and see little that he can remember in 
niture life. 

From Havre we started for Paris, and the route is upon the 
banks of the Seine. Of all railroad routes that I am acquainted 
with, I regard this as the most pleasant one I ever travelled. 
I cannot conceive of more rural happiness and comfort than 
appears to be spread over the glorious fields of Normandy, and 
oetween Havre and Rouen. The country is far more wooded 
than I had supposed, or had seen in other parts of France, in 
former travels. From Rouen to Paris we passed through many 
spots of interest. I must not omit to mention Poissy, where the 
infamous Charles IX., and his more infamous mother, Catherine 
de Medici, met in conference, in 1561, with the great divines of 
the Catholic and Protestant churches. This town is thirty miles 
from Paris. Certainly the country appears to be prosperous, — 
the farms are well cultivated, and the residences gave an idea 
of far more enjoyment and comfort than many of our party 
expected to see. 

Our entire party went to Paris, excepting Mr. Vanderbilt, 
who was indisposed, and preferred to remain for a quiet day on 
board the yacht. 



CHAPTER XII. 

HOTELS HON. S. G. GOODRICH AMERICAN CLERGY IN EUROPE REVIEW 

REV. ROBERT LOVETT AND HIS CHAPEL CONFERENCE OF AMERICANS 

— : METHODIST CHAPEL LOUVRE JARDIN DES PLANTES PALAIS DE 

JUSTICE FLOWER-MARKET HOTEL DE CLUNT ENGLISH FRIENDS 

VERSAILLES GARDEN OF THE TUILLERIES AND CHAMPS ELTSEES PONT 

NEUF AND OLD PARTS OF PARIS HOTEL DE VILLE CHURCHES ROYAL 

LIBRARY GOBELINS ST. DENIS NEUILLY CHAPELLE ST. FERDI- 
NAND CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE FONTAINEBLEAU. 

On reaching Paris, we found tlie weather as hot as it gener- 
ally is in any of our Atlantic cities in August. We were soon 
stationed in comfortable hotels — as the Hotel du Rhin, in the 
Place Vendome, and the Hotel d'Albion. I took up quarters at 
the Hotel Windsor, on the Rue Rivoli, where I put up in 1835, 
and afterwards in 1851. And, strange as it may appear, I have 
on every occasion had the same suite of rooms, so that I had here 
quite the home feeling. This is a capital house, and its landlord 
all a traveller can wish. My first business was to call on our 
distinguished fellow-citizen, the Hon. S. Gr. Goodrich, late United 
States Consul in Paris, and still discharging the duties of con- 
sulate till the arrival of his successor. Peter Parley is a man 
of whom his country ought to be proud ; he has done more for 
the instruction of his young countrymen than any other living 
man. He has been the author to whose pen every section of 
our land has been indebted for the reading of its children and 
youth. A few years ago, the State of Louisiana and the city of 
New Orleans paid him public honors rarely ever equalled upon 
our continent ; and when Mr. Goodrich was sent abroad as Con- 
sul at Paris every one acknowledged the fitness of the homage 
14* 



166 HOX. S. G. GOOLRICH. 

done to talent, and genius, and high patriotic spirit. On his 
arrival in the French metropolis, Mr. Goodrich found his coun- 
trymen next door to being without any representation. Instead 
of shutting himself up, and keeping his fellow-citizens at an un- 
approachable distance, and aping an etiquette which a British 
plenipotentiary would hardly establish, he at once made his resi- 
dence a pleasant resort for all his countrymen, and every Friday 
evening he had a soiree for his friends, where the New Eng- 
lander, Pennsylvanian, South Carolinian or Louisianian, was sure 
to meet with a hearty welcome, and where, for the evening, 
an American felt sure that he had one representing his country in 
Paris to whom he could look with pride and pleasure, and on 
whom he could rely for advice and assistance in any emergency. 
There, too, American ladies, when in Paris, met with friendly 
and serviceable attentions from Mrs. Goodrich and her accom- 
plished daughters. Americans abroad felt the importance of 
having such a man retained at this post. Numerous signatures 
were attached to a representation of the earnest desire of men 
of all parties that Mr. Goodrich might be retained. His services 
in having greatly extended the business of the office, and his 
merits, were urged upon the attention of the powers that be ; but 
in vain. The operation of such a measure abroad is injurious. 
No other country displays such antics, and plays shuffie-board in 
this style. I have no doubt that Mr. Goodrich's successor is a 
most worthy man, and he will be a fortunate and enviable one 
if, at the termination of his consular life in Pai'is, he shall possess 
one-half the reputation which Mr. Goodrich has acquired with 
all who have witnessed his labors and the spirit in which they 
have been discharged. 

At the time of our arrival in Paris there was a large delega- 
tion of American ladies and gentlemen in the city, and it was 
very pleasant to meet some intimate friends. The Rev. Drs. 
Crocker, of Providence; Lamson, of Dedham ; Krebbs, of New 



REVIEW — REV. MR. LOVETT. 167 

York; Vinton, of Boston; Bishop Mcllvaine, of Ohio, and Rev. 
Messrs. Kirk, Jameson, Cook and Bidwell, were all here. 

A party was made up to visit Versailles, in the vicinity of 
which a great review was to take place. The excursion was 
exceedingly agreeable; and the pleasure of the day was enhanced 
by the coni|iui]y of my valued friend and former pupil, 
Bobert Schell, Esq., his lady and her sister. The emperor was 
not present, as expected, but a large body of soldiers was under 
arms, and the Minister of War, with other generals, conducted 
the operations of the day. A sham iSght followed. The ladies 
were very much interested in the various manoeuvres of the 
skirmishing parties. A very large company of spectators was on 
the ground. Departing from this gay and one-sided view of war, 
we betook ourselves to an excellent cafe, and enjoyed our dinner; 
after which, the party had a delightful stroll through the palace 
grounds and gardens, and then, resuming the carriages, returned 
to Paris, having passed an exceedingly pleasant day. The ex- 
amination of the palace was deferred for another day. It was 
with great pleasure that I met my friend, Mr. Henry T. Parker, 
of Boston, with whom I had been in Europe in 1851. A pleasant 
day spent with him in the Palais Boyal, I shall not soon forget. 
On the Sabbath day I attended divine service at the Episcopal 
church, in the Marboeuf chapel, the minister of which is the Bev. 
Bobert Lovett, chaplain to the Bight Honorable the Earl of 
Bosse. This gentleman has occupied this important .post about 
twenty-live years. The congregation was large and very respect- 
able; every seat was occupied, and I think the audience was 
between five and six hundred. The service was read in a very 
impressive manner. I do not recollect that I ever heard it 
better read, — the prayers were prayed, not said. The text was 
Psalm 93 : 5, — "Thy testimonies are very sure; holiness be- 
cometh thy house, Lord, forever." The sermon was delivered 
without notes, — it was simple, earnest, evangelical, and adapted 
to usefulness. We were very much gratified, and, if we were to 



168 CONFERENCE OF AMERICANS — LOUVRE. 

remain in Paris, I think I should seek no further for a Sabbath 
sitting. After service, I had a pleasant interview with Mr. 
Lovett in the vestry ; he told me that on the last Lord's day 
Bishop Mcllvaine had preached a most excellent sermon in his 
pulpit. I would strongly recommend travellers, when in Paris, 
to attend the ministry of this " good minister of Jesus Christ." 

In the afternoon I met a number of American ministers and 
friends at the residence of Mrs. Doming, to consult upon the 
advisableness of the establishment of an American chapel in 
Paris. I have no doubt that this is a desirable measure ; and, 
if a place of worship could be procured, and a suitable minister 
placed in it, I think the advantages which would result from the 
institution would be numerous and certain. A large number of 
young business men are always in Paris, and a minister, with a 
home, would be of incalculable service to the hundreds of Ameri- 
cans who sojourn in this great city. In the evening I officiated 
at the English Methodist chapel, in the Rue Royale, very near 
the Church of the Madeleine. The congregation was as large as 
the chapel would hold, but it is quite a small one. 

We devoted a day to the Louvre, which is now in fine con- 
dition, having undergone entire reparation ; the gildings are 
fresh, and the frescoed ceilings are looking as if they were just 
executed. 

The great picture of Murillo's, which was purchased from 
Marshal Soult's estate, and cost more than one hundred and 
twenty thousand dollars, is now in this gallery ; it is a wondrous 
production, and it is difficult to believe that it is not a new pic- 
ture, the colors are so very brilliant. The subject is the Assump- 
tion of the Virgin. Here are some glorious pictures, but I miss 
many that charmed me long years ago. I am always pleased 
with the pictures of Philippe de Champaigne ; his portraits have 
an individuality about them, and I feel that they must have been 
likenesses. Two of his portraits of old French royalty were 
once in New York, and I r;member them offered somewhere 



JARDIN DES PLANTES. 169 

for sale, and wondered that 'hey were not taken up. If I am 
not mistaken, they were at the Clinton House when it was kept 
by its fine old host, Mr. Hodges. The chefs-cfcRuvre of this 
great collection have been so often engraved, that the enumera- 
tion of the sources of pleasure connected with the originals seems 
unnecessary. The apartments devoted to sculpture are immense, 
and the arrangement was made chiefly by Denon. In them are 
about fifteen hundred statues, busts, bas-reliefs, altars, brackets, 
candelabras, sarcophagi, &c. I was pleased with some exquisite 
gates of steel, finely carved, belonging to the days of Henry II. 
In the Musee. Grecque et Egyptien are vast treasures of mosaic, 
chalices, porcelain ; and here, or in some other part of the build- 
ing, I was charmed with a bas-relief, the production of Benvenuto 
Cellini, executed for Francis I. In this part of the Louvre are 
about thirty saloons, into many of which strangers rarely enter. 
Our friend Dr. Linsly was exceedingly laborious during our stay 
in Paris. Every morning he was up at five and off to the hos- 
pitals, where, through the courtesy of the professors and surgeons, 
he was taken through the daily walks, and had a fine opportunity 
to see the treatment of hundreds of patients by the renowned 
physicians and great surgeons of this celebrated medical school. 
We had a very delightful occasion on one day here, when Dr. 
Linsly and I had the pleasure to have Mr. Goodrich and his 
family as our guests, and we sat down quite a large party. Our 
visit to the Jardin des Plantes was on a fine day, and this noble 
institution appeared, I thought, more attractive than I had ever 
beheld it. We went to it by crossing the fine iron Bridge of 
Austerlitz, — it has five arches. The garden was established in 
1635 by Louis XIII., and the talents of the greatest naturalists 
of Europe have been placed under contribution to make it what 
it is, — the most famous garden on the continent. It has been 
the scene of labor for Herouard, De la Brosse, Tournefort, 
Vaillant, Jussieu and his son, Buffon, and more recently the 
illustrious Cuvier has devoted to it his great talents. When 



17*^ PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 

revolutionary barbarism devastated the city, this spot fortunately 
escaped dsstruction, and Bonaparte took it into his special favor. 
The care of this garden and its valuable adjuncts is in the charge 
of the Minister of the Interior. 

The Botanical Grarden, its noble conservatories, museum of 
natural history, anatomical gallery, laboratories, lecture-rooms 
and menagerie of animals, birds, &c., constitute a combination of 
advantages for study that no other capital in the world presents to 
the enthusiast in natural science. The menagerie was brought 
here from Versailles, by Louis XYI. The palm-trees are in 
fine condition, and date back to the days of Louis XIV. ; and the 
tropical plants are in conservatories, kept warm by steam-pipes. 
I was glad to see again the glorious cedar of Lebanon planted 
in 1734. One gallery, that of natural history, is more than four 
hundred feet long ; and in the cabinet of comparative anatomy 
are more than fifteen thousand specimens, all arranged by Baron 
Cuvier. Haydon was quite right when he said that the Jardin 
des Plantes was "a place of Roman magnificence." On our 
return we saw the Halle aux Vins, or great wine-depot ; here 
are about five hundred and fifty thousand casks of wine, and two 
thousand casks frequently come in during a single day. This is 
the custom-house for wine, and the excise duties on wine are 
here paid on the sale of the article. 

Our visit to the Palais de Justice was very interesting. This 
building is as old as Notre Dame, and was formerly the royal 
residence ; indeed, as late as the days of Francis I. The present 
front was built in 1760. Here is a vast gallery of more than 
two hundred feet by about eighty, in which the clients may per- 
ambulate whilst their cases are going on in court ; and here is a 
monument to the courageous Malesherbes, the advocate of Louis 
XVI. The courts of law are venerable halls, but too small for 
the demands of the city. The Conciergerie was the prison used 
for state purposes when the Palais was a royal mansion. It 
was from this place that Lavalette escaped, aided by his heroic 



FLOWER-MARKET. 171 

wife and Sir Robert Wilson. Here Marie Antoinette was con- 
fined ; but the cell, which was made by Louis XVIII. into an 
expiatory chapel, was destroyed in the revolution of 1830. Sad 
scenes of blood and murder were witnessed here in 1792. We 
were greatly interested here with the Sainte Chapelle, altogether 
the finest Gothic relic in Paris. It was built 1245, as a sanctum 
to receive the true cross and crown of thorns, purchased from 
the Greek emperor by St. Louis. The condition of this chapel 
is wonderful, considering its great antiquity. The glass windows 
are perfect treasures of art, and look as if just executed. The 
chapel is unique, and is, I think, one of the greatest curiosities 
in Paris. It is at present receiving a perfect renovation, and 
will be the noblest architectural bijou in Europe. Boileau, the 
great satirist, was buried here. Close by is the Quai Dessaix, 
where the great flower-market is held, and to which we paid fre- 
quent and charming visits. It is a pleasant thing to see the 
almost universal passion which exists for flowers. Go through 
the narrowest streets of Paris, and at the windows of the poor- 
est houses, and up four and five stories, you shall see pots of 
green things, and gay, blooming flowers. I like to watch the 
faces of the country people who bring in the flowers, — and they 
are here by hundreds ; they seem to be alive to the beauties of 
nature ; they look as though they had gained some refinemest 
from their gazing on these faint reflections of uncreated excellence 
and beauty. And then I was delighted to see the feeling of 
content and pride with which a man in blouse, or a hard-work- 
ing woman, or a poor little child, would carry off a pot of some 
verdant thing, to make home look a little more bright and cheer- 
ful. These flower-markets are pretty things, and they are good 
things, too. Bad people do not love God's handiworks, and 
seldom do they care for plants and flowers. I wish that parents 
would cultivate the taste for beauty and the love of nature in 
their children. A good flower and a fine plant are far better 
presents for a child than a noisy drum, a cruel sword, and a 



172 HOTEL DE CLUNY. 

miniature gun. Passive impressions lead to active habits, and 
many a fond but foolish mother has contributed her aid to make 
her darling boy food for bullets. 

I managed to have a long day and a pleasant party at my old 
favorite haunt, the Hotel de Cluny, in the Rue dcs Mathurins. 
This is a rare spot, and one that I never feel wearied in visiting. 
It was the town residence of the influential Abbots of Cluny, 
a Benedictine monastery at Cluny, and, before the revolution, it 
had six hundred houses in connection with it, and an income of 
three hundred thousand francs. It was built in 1480, on the 
ruins of the Roman Palais de Thermos, where Julian made it 
his palace in 360. Here many a Pope has had a home when 
visiting France, and here did the Abbess of Port Royal and her 
nuns find a resting-place from 1579 to 1584. In this glorious 
old spot lived Mary, daughter of Henry VII. of England, and 
widow of Louis XII. of France ; and, while living here, she 
was privately married to the Duke of Suffolk, and it was from 
this event that the claim of poor Lady Jane Gray was laid to 
the crown of England. Between forty and, fifty years ago, M. 
Du Sommerard, a gentleman of great antiquarian taste, pur- 
chased the place, and expended a vast property in collecting 
works of art of the mediaeval age, the whole being classified 
according to chronological order. At his death, which occurred 
a few years ago, the French government wisely determined to 
purchase the hotel and its unique collection, and large additions 
have been made to it of every curiosity that can serve to illus- 
trate the early history of the country. The first appearance of 
this edifice, on entering the court-yard, is very striking. It has 
several Gothic turrets and rich windows. No one can walk 
through this building without being satisfied that the Abbots of 
Cluny and their brethren must have had good times when they 
came up to court. Room after room is filled with bas-reliefs, 
sculpture, carvings and casts. The furniture of the 14th, 15th 
and 16th centuries, is in great profusion, and the tapestry is very 



NEAV FRIENDS — VERSAILLES. 173 

beautiful and perfect. Perhaps there are no cabinets and presses 
to be seen in Europe that are more exquisite than those in this 
museum. We went from one saloon to another in the upper 
story, and revelled in the examination of the richest old curios- 
ity-shop in the world. The catalogue contains nearly two thou- 
sand items, and weeks of study might be spent to great profit in 
this wonderful place. I would not forget to say that the handi- 
work of Bernard de Palissy is here in great plenty, and some of 
the superb designs of Benevenuto Cellini. Cups, goblets and 
drinking-horns, of all the great men of French history, gems, 
enamels and armor, abound, and porcelain of every variety and 
age. A small chapel, whose ceiling is sustained by a single 
shaft, is very interesting, and the carving in this sanctuary 
describes several sacred subjects. Just as we were going into 
this charming place, I met with a venerable English lady and 
her female companion, and, on offering her my arm to aid her 
ascent of some steep steps, we entered into conversation. I 
found her an exceedingly interesting woman, of fine taste, and 
possessing much valuable information. We went through the 
entire collection in company, and, at parting, she gave us 9, kind 
and pressing invitation to visit her at her mansion near Plym- 
outh, in Devonshire. We were fortunate in meeting with very 
pleasant people at our hotel, and we shall always look back with 
interest on an acquaintance which we formed here with Captain 
Masters, of the royal navy, and his son and daughter. This 
gentleman resides at East Byde, on the Isle of Wight. His son 
^s a Cambridge man, and was spending the vacation in travel. 
In their company was an excellent clergyman of the English 
church, the Bev. Mr. Swainson. With these friends we arranged 
for a vi«it to Versailles. On this occasion, we took the railroad, 
and in the cars found a large school of noble-looking boys in 
uniform, attended by a bevy of tutors — priests, in clerical cos- 
tume. They were bound to the grand reviews. 

Versailles has been so often described that I need only say 
15 



174 VERSAILLES — SCULPTURE AND PAINTING. 

that, though I have been through its splendor again and age in, 1 
found it full of interest. The palace is now used as a grand 
receptacle of the objects which minister to national pride. Louis 
Philippe turned his attention to this palace, and gathered 
together in these gorgeous saloons all the pictorial history of 
France. Verily, this is the place to study the history of this 
great country ; and, when I look at the magnificent portraiture of 
the personal career of the great emperor, I cannot, for a moment, 
doubt that Louis Philippe did more than any other person to 
create that wave of popular feeling which carried the present Napo- 
leon into his imperial throne. I do not think that any other 
nation has such an illustration of its ancient and modern history 
as this. 

The works of sculpture which pleased us best were a Joan of 
Arc, sculptured by a deceased daughter of Louis Philippe, and 
bearing her cypher ; Cardinal de Retz ; Chancellor L'Hospital ; 
Sully; the late Duke of Orleans, by Pradier, of Geneva ; Cardinal 
Mazarin and Colbert, by Coyzevox; Moliere, by Houdon, the 
sculptor who made the noble statue of Washington at Richmond ; 
Fenelon and General Washington, by Houdon ; Napoleon and 
Ney, by the same ; Marshal Davoust, by Bosio ; Bossuet, Coligny. 

In the saloons of paintings, we were much gratified with those 
descriptive of the Cmsades, the Battle of St. Jacques, by 
Johannot, — this is a noble piece ; the Interview of the Camp of 
the Drap d'Or, by the younger Debay ; the Battle of Ivry, by 
Steuben ; the Instituting of the French Academy, in 1634, — 
a most spirited picture, with capital drawing, by H. Lecompt^. 
The Passage of the Rhine, 1672, has employed several artists; 
I prefer the one painted by P. Fran que. Napoleon receiving 
the Senatus Consulte, at St. Cloud, on his proclamation as 
Emperor, 1804, by Rouget, is good. A picture that I cannot 
forget was Napoleon receiving at the Louvre, after his coronation, 
the deputation from the army. The Proclamation of the Lieu- 
tenant General, read at the Hotel de Ville, 1830, and a Cele- 
bration of Mass by the Pope and Cardinals, are full of interest. 



GARDENS OF THE TUILLERIES. 175 

But why should I particularize ? for here are more than two 
thousand, and of these probably five hundred have great merit. 
The recent paintings, by Horace Yernet, illustrative of the bat- 
tles in Algiers, are vast as to size, and deeply interesting in 
their details of African scenery, and exhibit wonderful brilliancy 
of coloring. Our visit, also, to the great and little Trianon, was 
very agreeable ; and we were delighted with these charming little 
palaces, where, I have no doubt, more comfort has been experi- 
enced by their royal owners than in the gorgeous chateaux close 
by. Monarchs are but men, and, like other people, they feel 
more real pleasure in homes of comfort than in magnificent and 
spacious solitudes. Bonaparte loved a small house, and once 
wrote to his brother at Paris to get him one ready on his arrival 
from Egypt ; George IV. had his snuggery close by the glorious 
old castle at Windsor, and Queen Victoria spends her happiest 
hours at Osborne House, which is a modest mansion, not equal 
to many gentlemen's family houses. 

The garden at the great Trianon pleased me, perhaps, as much 
as anything of its size that I ever saw, and, in my opinion, is far 
more beautiful than the gardens of the great palace close by. 
The little Trianon we all felt interested in, because it was the 
favorite retreat of Marie Antoinette. 

After dining at a cafe, we took the rail on the other side of 
the Seine, and, riding up the river, had a good view of St. Cloud, 
and passed through Sevres. 

The walks which I had in the gardens of the Tuilleries and in 
the Champs Ely sees are all, I think, become parts of myself, 
and will be forever with me. The exquisite order in which 
everything is kept delighted me ; and then the perfect behavioi 
of the thousands who resort to these promenades ! It was just 
the right season to enjoy these spots; the noble orange-trees 
were still many of them in fragrant blossom, and the marble 
statues beside them afi"orded a fine contrast. It is the fashion to 



176 GARDENS OF THE TUILLERIES. 

criticize the Tuilleries ; but I must always admire the fine long 
line of elegant old buildings. 

As to the Champs Elysees, it is a place to think in and to 
think of, but cannot be described. I can forgive a Parisian for 
his pride ; he has whereof to glory, indeed, as he carries his 
children into the woody walks of this pleasure-ground of the 
people. I can turn from the thronged street and be instantly 
among the finest flowers, the noblest walks, the gayest company 
and the prettiest children ; for, although I do not think the women 
generally handsome, yet the children are very beautiful. 0, these 
fountains ! how refreshing is the spray they cast off so freely ! I 
cannot express myself in reference to this locality more happily 
than by quoting a description given of it by Mr. James A. Rob- 
inson, who was one of my young travelling companions in 1851. 
He said, writing to a friend : " Turn round, and look at the gar- 
dens we have left. Tliere, see the long, low Tuilleries, the palace 
of the Bourbons, the home of Napoleon, the residence of the 
Citizen King, and now the Palace National. Off to the right is 
the Seine, and its long line of quays ; here is the bridge, and just 
across it is the chamber of the Assembly, with twelve Corinthian 
columns. To our left, is a long, stately range of buildings, 
known as the Rue Rivoli, in which we reside ; it has an arched 
arcade in front for foot-passengers, and some hundreds of col- 
umns to support and adorn it. At this end are public offices. 
Now turn, and look at our right ; and see, a street cuts through 
this noble row, and, at its end, you behold the pride of the city, 
— the Madeleine. There it is, all white, and its stately columns 
tell of Greece. Now gaze upon the open space of the Champs 
Elysees, and look down through that splendid avenue. an;J there 
see the finest thing in France, — Bonaparte's triumphal arch." 

I have never visited Paris without having my admiration of 
the Pont Neuf increased. It is my favorite stand-point. The 
bridge is of stone, and not marked by any architectural beauty ; 
but from U you obtain the best view of the olden portion of the 



HOTEL DE VILLE — CHURCHES. 177 

city, and here is the finest one of its venerable streets, quays 
and ancient houses, that I know of. The buildings are very old, 
— six, seven, and some eight stories high. The He de la Cite 
makes two streams of the river, and off behind all stands Notre 
Dame. I have spent hours here, looking at the prospect in 
early morning light, and in the glowing colors of the setting sun ; 
and I have wandered off to this bridge many a night to watch 
the effect of the moon upon these relics of other ages. A favor- 
ite walk with me is to the Hotel de Yille, a grand old edifice of 
the sixteenth century. It was on the 1 lace de Grreve, in front 
of it, that the bloody scenes of the revolution were enacted, and 
here stood the guillotine. Perhaps the best view of this muni- 
cipal palace is had from the quay on the other side the Seine. 
It was here that many of the most exciting scenes of the first 
revolution transpired, and the very room in which Robespierre 
held his council is shown, and the table on which he was placed 
when his jaw was fractured by the pistol-ball. Very near to 
this is the old church of St. Germain I'Auxerrois, said to have 
been founded by Robert, in 998. The part which remains dates 
from the 13th century, and the front is the great western door- 
way. From this church the bell sounded out which summoned 
the Catholics to the infernal butchery of the Protestants, on 
Bartholomew's day, 1572, — a work of piety which the Pope, 
Gregory XIII., approved, and in honor of which he commanded 
a medal to be^truck. This medal is scarce ; but I have seen it, 
and the following is the inscription, which 1 copied : 

Around the head : gregorivs xiii. font. max. an. ii. 
On the reverse : vgonottorvm. strages 1572. 

This medal is in the British Museum, among the Papal medals. 
The silver medal was cast in the first year of his Papacy, and 
the copper one in the second. 

We visited a number of churches, and were much gratified with 
St. Germain des Pres, St. Sulpice and the Pantheon, — which last 
15'^ 



178 ST. SULPICE — ROYAL LIBRARY. 

the piety of Napoleon III. has again put into the hands of the 
priests. It is now dedicated to St. Genevieve. Certainly, this 
is a most charming specimen of the Grecian style. This church 
is three hundred and two feet long, by two hundred and fifty- 
five in width. In the crypt are the tombs of renowned men. 
The dome is lofty, and is finely painted, by Gros. The work is 
principally illustrative of French history, and it is supposed that 
some sacred subject will soon take the place now devoted to 
kings and queens. The portico of this church is exceedingly 
impressive, the Corinthian pillars of which are sixty feet high 
and five feet in diameter. 

The portico of St. Sulpice is truly majestic ; it has a double 
row of columns. I am always gratified in looking at the west 
front of this fine sanctuary. No traveller should fail to go into 
this church to see, in a deep recess beyond the altar, an extraor- 
dinary sculpture of the Virgin and her Son, in marble. They 
appear with the globe at their feet, and immediately under their 
feet is a bruised serpent. Very wonderful is the efi'ect of a con- 
cealed light, falling upon this beautiful work of art. 

A wet day was selected for a visit to the Koyal Library. It 
is in a central situation, and the entrance is from the Hue Riche- 
lieu ; the building occupies a square, and extends to other 
streets. Very dark and unpromising are its walls ; and, when I 
first visited Paris, I passed it in full faith that it was a prison. 
I was desirous to see the bust of its late librarian, the renowned 
bibliopolist. Van Praet. There it stands, in a spot where he 
passed his useful and agreeable life. A greater enthusiast never 
lived. The cabinet of medals is, in many respects, unique, and 
has been the care of the monarchs of France since the days of 
Francis I. Very few persons obtain access to the ground-floor 
of this collection, in which are the vases, gems, cameos, and 
precious works of art. The vase of Ptolemy cannot be forgotten 
by any one who has seen it. I can only say that the wondrous 
library is all open to the students' use. I shall not attempt a 
description of its tor.ico ; but here are first editions, vellum copies. 



GOBELINS — CHURCH OF ST. DENIS. 179 

rare Boccacios, unaccountable Dantes, impossible to be found ; 
Virgils, and noito-bo-v.nderslood first editions of ITonipr, as poor 
Haydon, in his charming autobiography, said of Lord Spe^uccr's 
library. On this visit, I was most attracted by the large collec- 
tion of prints, which comprises all the successive periods of art. 
The accommodations for these matchless engravings are far too 
contracted. I found that there were more than eleven thousand 
bound volumes of prints. The library of MSS. is very rich, and 
I should enjoy a week spent in rummaging these old cabinets and 
presses, where are missals bound and illustrated as the piety of 
other ages deemed fitting for books of devotion. On a former 
visit I saw many of the rare and early editions. Only a book- 
worm can understand the gratifications of hours and days passed 
in this quiet retreat. There are some twenty or thirty other 
libraries of great interest in Paris ; and in no city in the world 
can a literary man obtain all the information that he needs with 
so much ease as in this capital. 

Our visit to the Gobelins was a source of much pleasure. I 
am happy to say that this interesting manufactory is now receiv- 
ing the patronage of the government, as it did under Napoleon 
and Louis Philippe. We found a large number of workmen 
employed upon tapestry and carpets. There are about one hun- 
dred magnificent specimens of these curiously-fabricated pictures 
hanging on the walls of spacious apartments, and we were cour- 
teously shown the tapestries in course of execution. I am not 
mechanic enough to attempt a description of the process which is 
employed. A son of the Emerald Isle, who was watching the 
operation of making a grand picture from a Raphael, brought 
here from the Louvre to be copied, was standing near us, and 
broke out, " Holy Father, Jimmini ! what a thing man is ! " 

A very beautiful day invited us to go out of the city, and we 
took carriages for the abbey church of St. "Denis, which is about 
four or five miles from Paris This church has been the great 
burial-place of the monarchs of France, from the days of Dago 



180 NEUILLY. 

bert, in 580. Louis Philippe laid out vast sums of money in 
restoring this church, which suffered sadly in the first revolution. 
It is a truly noble structure ; and we entered the porch with a 
feeling of interest, from the recollection that in this porch Henry 
IV. made his abjuration of the Protestant cause. The west front 
is very fine ; it has two towers, and over the great gateway is a 
bas-relief of the Judgment. This temple is one of the most 
impressive that I have seen. On every hand are monuments of 
great merit, and some exceedingly curious. Directly behind the 
altar, floats the oriflamme, or national standard. The restoration 
appears to be in excellent taste, and the windows are among the 
best Ave have seen. AYe descended into the crypt, and here we 
found, in exact chronological order, the remains of the kings 
from Clovis down, or, rather, their monuments ; for the bodies of 
many were taken up by the madmen of the revolution, in 1793. 
Some of the sculpture is very fine. I greatly admired the kneel- 
ing effigies of Francis I. and Claude, his queen. Here is also 
the tomb of Charles, Comte d'Alen^on, who fell in the battle of 
Cressy, in 1346. The marbles of this royal charnel-house are 
many of them exceedingly fine, and in far better preservation 
than I had expected. The many chapels on the aisles are ex- 
quisitely beautiful. 

On leaving the abbey, we drove to Neuilly, the favorite resi- 
dence of Louis Philippe. This delightful spot is in ruins, it 
having been sacked and burned by the Parisian mob, in 1848. 
We walked through tlie charming grounds, which were now all 
staked off, ready for a great sale of the property, which was to 
take place soon. The severity of the new government, in confis- 
cating the family property of the Orleans dynasty, is a lasting 
blot upon the new regime. 

The chapel dedicated to the memory of the Duke of Orleans, 
eldest son of Louis Philippe, stands not far from the Arc de 
I'Etoile. He was unfortunately killed by being thrown from his 
carriage, July 13, 1842. The duke was carried to a small shop 



CHAPEL OF ST. FERDINAND. 181 

opposite the scene of the disaster, and there laid on a pal- 
let in a back room. He lay insensible till his death, which 
took place at ten minutes past four p. m. This chapel is dedi- 
cated to St. F 3rdinand, the duke's patron saint, and was built by 
his afflicted fi.ther. The chapel is a pretty stone edifice, about 
fifty feet long, by twenty in height. In the transept, on the 
left, is an altar to St. Ferdinand, and off to the right a group 
representing the duke upon his death-bed, while at his head is an 
angel in prayer. This exquisite statue of the angel was the 
work of his sister, the Princess Marie, and bears the initials M. 
0. The rest of the group is by Triquetti. In front, as we 
enter, is the altar to the Virgin, and surmounting it is a statue 
of the Virgin and Child, by Triquetti. Directly behind this 
altar, we went down three or four steps, and entered the room in 
which the duke died. This is very plainly furnished, and is 
used as the sacristy. Opposite the door is a picture the size of 
life, by Jacquand, describing the tragic scene. The duke is 
lying on a pallet, physicians supporting his head, the queen 
and one of his sisters kneeling at his side ; the king is 
gazing in the agony of hopeless grief, and the royal Dukes 
D'Aumale and Montpensier, and Marshals Soult and Gerard, 
Guizot and a priest, fill up the gronp. In this room I noticed 
a small, gilt-framed painting, which the guide informed me was 
the only article saved in the sacking of Neuilly, and was de- 
posited here. 

A neat building faces the door of the chapel, which was 
intended to receive the royal family in their frequent visits. I 
observed a richly-embroidered cushion, which was the work of 
the queen. One clock here has the hands pointing to ten min- 
utes to twelve, when the accident happened ; and another clock 
opposite, whose hands stand at ten minutes past four, when the 
heir apparent of this beautiful land expired. In the court is a 
cedar of Lebanon, brought home from the Mount by the Duke 
of Orleans, and here it was planted by his son, the Count do 



182 CilAPELLE EXPIATOIllE. 

Paris, I do not envy the man who can visit this spot unmoved. 
And this is all the real estate that the Orleans family is per- 
mitted to hold in France ! 

We next drove to another place of deep historical interest ; it 
was the Chapelle Expiatoire, in the Rue d'Anjou St. Honore. 
This is to the memory of Louis XVI. and his ill-fated queen, 
and stands on the spot where, for twenty-one years, their remains 
were interred, till they were exhumed, and carried to St. Denis. 
As you enter the chapel, on the right, you see a fine statue of 
Louis, executed by Bossio. Never did chisel define ermine so 
delicately as on this marble ; and the lace scarf and frill-work is 
like lace itself. On the left is a statue of Marie Antoinette, in 
a kneeling posture, as if supplicating Madame Elizabeth for aid 
and support, who, in the person of Religion, stands beside her. 
The queen's face is almost one of imploring agony, and more of 
earthly emotion than heavenly grace is depicted. Descending to 
the crypt, our guide pointed out the four columns on which the 
chapel rests, and which serve to support the pillars of the roof, 
and told us that within those vast square columns were enclosed 
the remains of those who perished in the revolution, thrown in 
a promiscuous heap, and mixed with quick-lime, and among them 
was the saint-like Princess Elizabeth. 

Leaving the chapel, we begged a flower from the garden. 
The faithful Swiss guards lie on either side of the garden, and 
their resting-place is marked by stone columns. These two 
chapels are among the most interesting objects we have visited 
in Paris. 

In former visits, I had not been to the Chateau of Fontaine- 
bleau, but had only i issed through by rail. On this occasion, 
we made a pleasant party with some valued friends from New 
York, and went out for a long summer day. The railroad goes 
through a fine country, rich in corn and pasturage ; the views 
are bold, some of the hills are bordering on the romantic, 
and the private residences are many of them very beautifid. 



FONTAINEBLEAU, 183 

The to^vn is finely situated in the midst of the extensive forest. 
Fontainebleau is about fifty miles from Paris, on the railroad to 
Lyons. On our arrival, we ordered our dinner at the Hotel 
de Lyons for four o'clock, and then started for the palace. This 
is esteemed the most beautiful one belonoring; to the crown. It 
has been built at difi'erent periods, but has been put together in 
the finest taste, and the parts are in good keeping. This was 
the resort of several of the early kings, but the present chateau 
was erected by Francis I. ; here Charles Y. was received by 
him, and here poor Biron was arrested by Henry IV. Like 
other palaces, it has been a scene of horrors ; in its walls 
Monaldeschi was murdered. Here, too, Louis XIV. signed the 
revocation of the edict of Nantes. Napoleon loved Fontaine- 
bleau, and here he passed much of his time. He made it the 
piison-house of Charles IV. of Spain, and here kept the Pope 
Pius VII. in custody. The great event which has given this 
palace a lasting interest was the abdication of Napoleon, in 1814. 
Louis Philippe spent vast sums in the restoration of this palace ; 
and everything done to it, as it regards the building or the fur- 
niture, was in perfect accordance with the style of the edifice. 

This palace is very extensive, and you are conducted through 
vast ranges of apartments. I was most pleased with the rooms 
occupied by the Pope, and with the private apartments of the 
great emperor. The table on which he signed his abdication is 
a plain little affair, not worth two dollars or three at the outside. 
It is covered with a glass case, to preserve it from the hands of 
the curiosity -hunters. The works of art and paintings are very 
numerous, and some of the last are of a high order. The great 
ball-room is a very noble affair; it is of oak, and richly gilt, 
and equal to anything I have seen since I left the Winter 
Palace, in St. Petersburg. Some portions of this building date 
back to the eleventh century, and the chapel on the lower floor 
is said to have been consecrated by Thomas a Becket, in 1169. 
Here are fine gardens, in capital order, and a large fish-pond, 



184 FOREST OF FONTAINEBLEAU. 

well stocked with carp. We looked with intense emotion at the 
stairway of the chateau where Napoleon took his farewell of 
the army. That must have been the hour of his soul's darkness. 
In this palace Louis Philippe had collected the entire history 
of France from its earliest records, upon Sevres china plates, 
which are here framed, and suspended on the walls of a gallery. 
The bedrooms of Henry IV. and Mary de Medicis, Louis IX., 
and Marie Antoinette, are fine apartments. In this queen's 
boudoir is a vase of gold and ivory, given to her at her ill-starred 
marriage. Here is a vast quantity of Gobelin tapestry ; the 
history of Esther is one of the subjects. 

A very severe thunder-storm kept us prisoners for some time. 
On its passing off, we repaired to the hotel, and had a comfort- 
able dinner. We met with an agreeable travelled gentleman 
at the table, and, after finding that the cosmopolite was a New 
Yorker, we invited him to join our party for a visit to the forest. 
We had a large carryall, with side curtains. The driver was 
communicative, and called attention to the most famous trees of 
this beautiful spot. I think some of the oaks transcend in beauty 
any that I have seen before. The three brothers are wondrous 
productions, and cannot be less than six or seven hundred years 
old. Just as we were midway in the forest, it began to rain 
furiously. .The curtains were no defence, as they had no fasten- 
ings ; and we proposed that the ladies should sit down on the 
floor of the carriage, and we would protect them with the cush- 
ions as far as possible, and then over all we threw the ladies' 
woollen shawls. Such times of fun and laughter I have rarely 
seen, as we had amid the storm, thunder and lightning. 

Soon after our return, the sun shone forth brilliantly. Our 
good friend Mr. Leggett will not soon forget his ride with the 
young ladies in the forest of Fontainebleau. This forest is about 
thirty miles in circumference, and contains more than thirty-two 
thousand acres. The scenery is very diversified, and in some 
parts the rocks and waterfalls are highly romantic. Wolves are 



FONTAINEBLEAU. 185 

stil) troublesome to the farmers, and a price is yet set upon their 
heads. The town is quite pretty, has fine clean streets, large 
shops ; and, if I wanted to sit down quietly in France for the 
autumn months, I think it would be in this grand old town. 
The grapes of this vicinity are exceedingly fine, and the vine- 
yards have been famous since the days of the jovial Francis, 
who introduced the best varieties of the grape. 
16 



CHAPTER XIII. 

REV. J. E. PEAKE — NAPOLEON's TOMB IN THE HOTEL DES INVALIDES 

LOUIS PHILIPPE DESCRIPTION OF THE CRYPT GALLERY, ETC. 

MOSAICS CARYATIDES SARCOPHAGUS RELIQUARY ALTAR AND 

BALDAQUIN — GUIDE — CLIMATE OF PARIS — OVERTURES MADE TO ME. 
VANDERBILT — WOODMAN AND FORR — RAILROAD TO EOUEN — HIS- 
TORIC NOTICE POPULATION OF ROUEN CATHEDRAL INTERIOR 

MONUMENTS RICHARD CCKUR DE LION, ETC. ABBEY OF ST. OUEN 

PALACE OF JUSTICE — JOAN OF ARC — CORNEILLE — ENGLISH CHURCH — 
VISITORS. 

During my stay at the Hotel de Windsor, I enjoyed much 
pleasure in the society of an English clergyman also resident in 
the hotel, the Rev. J. R. Peake, of Whitchurch, in Shropshire. 
This gentleman was a most pleasant companion in my city ram- 
bles, and we both had many views and opinions in common, 
though belonging to different pales of the Christian church. Mr. 
Peake, like myself, is engaged in the education of lads, and was 
now passing his vacation on the continent. I really hope that 
we may meet again, and am disposed to believe that the desire 
is entertained by my friend and brother. Mr. Peake joined our 
entire party in visiting the Hotel des Invalides, for the purpose 
of seeing Napoleon's tomb. This required some management, 
as the great work was not quite finished, and the public were not 
admitted. All difficulties being removed, we made our visit. 

The remains of the emperor were brought to France in triumph, 
in 1840, in a frigate commanded by the Prince de Joinville. A 
noble procession of steamboats conveyed the body to Neuilly. 
On a car thirty feet high, and drawn by sixteen black horses, it 
was carried to the Invalides. Galleries were erected to accom- 




GRAND ENTRANCE TO THE CRYPT, AND VIEW OF BONAPARTE'S TOMB. 



napoleon's tomb — THJfr CRYPT. 189 

modate nearly thirty thousand persons. Candelebra of vast size 
adorned and illuminated the church, and in front of the altar 
was a magnificent catafalque, covered with violet-colored velvet, 
and this adorned with imperial emblems to receive the sarcopha- 
gus. The pall-bearers were Bertrand, Gourgaud, and the sur- 
viving marshals of the empire. The king and his family were 
present. How much Louis Philippe was accessory to his own 
dethronement, is a question that may well be pondered. 

The body was then placed in a chapel of this church, which 
was itself elaborately fitted up. But the government imme- 
diately addressed itself to the preparation of a tomb befitting 
the greatest man who ever ruled in France. It would take a 
volume to describe the gorgeous arrangements for this unrivalled 
sepulchre. I have, therefore, preferred to give a good engraving 
of the entrance to the crypt ; and through the door-way is seen 
the tomb itself, and the monuments of Duroc and Bertrand are 
seen on either side. 

The tomb is surmounted by a marble balustrade breast-high, 
and the entrance-door is guarded by two colossal funeral genii. 
This engraving shows the high altar of the church, as you enter 
the edifice. The other side, towards the tomb, is still more elab- 
orate. The altar, the balustrade around it, the hand-rail and the 
pedestals which support the candelebra, are formed of black 
marble from the Pyrenees and green marble from the Alps. Over 
the door-way leading to the tomb is Bonaparte's dying request : 

" I DESIRE THAT MY ASHES MAY KEPOSE ON THE BANKS OF 
THE SEINE, IN THE MIDST OF THE FRENCH PEOPLE, WHOM I LOVED 
SO WELL." 

The crypt is a circular gallery, of about seven or eight feet 
wide, with a central space, formed by twelve marble arches, and 
the before-named balustrade connecting them with each other ; 
and between these arches are twelve caryatides, fifteen feet high. 
The sarcophagus stands in the centre, with the ends towards the 
doors. ^ 



190 MOSAICS — BAS-RELIEFS — SARCO PH AGUS. 

This gallery around is paved with mosaics, and its "wall is 
thrown into divisions, which correspond with the arches of the 
centre work. The doors of the crypt and reliquary occupy twa 
of these divisions, and the other ten are devoted to marble bas- 
reliefs. Twelve bronze lamps are suspended from the roof of this 
circular gallery. The bas-reliefs are the exquisite production of 
Simard, and are allegorical representations of the great acts and 
institutions of the emperor's reign. The subjects are the Insti- 
tution of the Legion of Honor, Encouragement of Commerce 
and Industry, Public Works, Establishment of the Audit Office. 
Establishment of the University of France, the Concordat, the 
Civil Code, the Foundation of the Council of State, Organiza- 
tion of Public Administration, Pacification of Civil Troubles. 

The mosaics in the passage leading to the tomb are very rich, 
and here are two of them. A larger one is an eagle surmounted 




by the imperial diadem. Each of the caryatides, with the pillar 
against which it stands, is formed of a single block of marble. 
The sarcophagus is very imposing from its simplicity. It is com- 
posed of quartz gritstone, and was procured from a quarry in 
Russia. The cover is of one slab. The coffin, of tin, is en- 
closed in mahogany ; this has two cases of lead, and over 
all is an ebony coffin. The sarcophagus itself is lined with 
gray Corsican granite. Here, then, will lie the remains of Na- 



RELIQUARY — ALTAR AND BALDAQUIN. 191 

poleon Bonaparte till the last trumpet shall sound, and all ranks 
shall be abolished, and he will stand with the humblest of his 
subjects before the King eternal — unless the good pleasure of 
Parisians shall by and by decide upon pulling down what they 
formerly built up with so much enthusiasm. 

The Reliquary, or sword-room, is a very elegant apartment, 
lined with white marble. Directly facing the door stands a mar- 
ble statue of Napoleon in imperial costume, the sceptre in one 
hand and a globe in the other. In front of this statue is a 
pedestal of dark porphyry, from Finland, on which is a rich 
bronze cushion, where repose the hat which Napoleon wore at 
Austerlitz, his sword used at that battle, his epaulettes, orders, 
and a gold crown. On either side is a tripod supporting the 
flags which are identified with his military exploits. On the 
walls are recorded the names of battles in which he commanded 
in person. The pavement of this apartment is inlaid with mosaic 
medallions, descriptive of imperial power. 

I think the Altar and Baldaquin exceed in magnificence any 
work of man that I have ever seen ; and, standing before it and 
looking around upon the entire scene, I feel that all of earthly 
splendor that this world has witnessed in the monumental art 
must pale before this sepulchral chef-WcBuvre. Twelve years 
have been devoted to this national labor, and it is now nearly 
finished. Our guide was one of the Old Guard who accompanied 
Napoleon to Elba and St. Helena, and is now the custodian of 
his tomb. We saw the coffin in a chapel, where it lies in great 
magnificence, awaiting its final removal. 

During all my visits to Paris, which have been in June, July, 
December, January and February, I have been observant of the 
weather and climate. I have noticed no fogs nor mists. The 
air is dry, and those who have had a tendency to cough, 
bronchial irritation, or asthmatical symptoms, are always relieved. 
In no place have I felt the state of the skin so healthy as in 
this city. In all cases where invalids visit Paris and find that 
16* 



192 OVERTURES MADE TO MR. VANDERBILT. 

they improve, I think they would do well to abide quietly. I 
have seen bad consequences ensue from not letting well-enough 
satisfy. We all, as a party, had our health perfectly in Paris ; 
enjoyed every hour of our visit, and left this beautiful city with 
regret. 

I ought to mention that our stay in Paris was one of nineteen 
days. During our abode here several gentlemen and noblemen 
called on Mr. Yanderbilt, expressing an earnest wish to have 
him identify himself with a new steam-ship line which the gov- 
ernment proposed to open with North, South and Central Amer- 
ica, To these overtures, which were urged in the most flatter- 
ing terms, Mr. Vanderbilt gave no encouragement ; but freely 
communicated Ms views, and ofiered the results of his experience. 
The subject was afterwards revived, and the most pressing invi- 
tations to revisit Paris were forwarded to Mr. Vanderbilt at 
Constantinople, and the first names in France, both civilians and 
capitalists, were involved in the proposal. And had Mr. Van- 
derbilt gone abroad with any desire to advance his interests by 
commercial operations, the opportunities afforded him were as 
brilliant as a business man could desire. But his aims and 
objects were strictly private, and personal enjoyment and the 
happiness of his circle was all he attempted. 

Having finished our business with Mr. Woodman, the prince 
of tailors, and Forr, the best shoemaker in Paris, we took 
the train of cars for Bouen, which is eighty-four miles from 
Paris. Our route lay on the banks of the Seine, and we passed 
through Clichy, Colombes, where the queen of Charles I. died in 
poverty ; Poissy, Meulan, Mantes, where William the Conqueror 
met his death-wound 5 E-osny, the favorite residence of the great 
Sully. On our way we noticed some exceedingly fine churches, 
of apparently an early date. The town of Vernon is a fine- 
looking old place. Every time I pass this road I long to make 
a sauntering tour along the banks of the Seine. How much I 
wanted to make a tarry in Andelys, Gaillard, and other sweet 



w -iki 




ROUEN ITS HISTORY AND SIEGES. 193 

spots on the river-side. Elboeuf is a large, flourishing town, 
with many manufactories of cloth, and around are villas in- 
dicative of taste and wealth. The Seine, in all its course, winds 
through a cultivated valley, and presents at every bend the most 
picturesque views. Next to Paris, I regard Rouen as the most 
interesting city in France, and, in some respects, one of the most 
extraordinary cities of Europe. This place lies on the north 
bank of the river, across which there is a fine stone bridge, and 
I believe also a suspension bridge ; but I was engaged in 
noticing the glorious approach to this city, and the show which 
it presents of its venerable cathedral, and the abbey church of 
St. Ouen. Ptolemy speaks of this city by the name of Rotho- 
magus. The Romans occupied and fortified it, and remains of 
their walls are yet to be traced. The Church of Rome claims 
that Christianity was introduced here by the apostles. Saint 
Ouen built churches here during his episcopate, in the seventh 
century. Rollo, the Norwegian, who became Duke of Normandy, 
was a great benefactor to Rouen. Under his care it grew and 
flourished. 

This city was strongly fortified at an early period, and has 
often been the scene of siege and carnage. Its sieges date in 
949, by the Emperor Otho, and Louis IV. of France ; in ] 204, 
by Philip Augustus ; in 1418, by Henry V., King of England ; 
in 1449, when Charles VII. took it from England ; in 1591, by 
Henry IV. This is quite a place of business, and it has numer- 
ous manufactures, which are prosperous. The city is engaged in 
foreign commerce, and I saw vessels at the quays of three hun- 
dred tons. The custom-house is a good building. The popula- 
tion is about one hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants. The 
narrow streets are thronged with people, and everywhere the 
hum of cheerful industry was heard. The streets are precisely 
as they were when Francis I. was in power ; and I am carried 
back to the days of the sixteenth century more really than I ever 
was before, I feel that I am gazing at the very houses on which 



194 ROUEN CATHEDRAL. 

Joan of Arc has looked, and am amid the same scenes that 
pleased and occupied her cruel tormenffors. 

Every one said, " Let us go to the cathedral ; " and on the way 
we picked up a boy, who was a willing, cheerful, chatty guide. 
On our way, I was tempted to explore sundry portfolios of 
engravings, and made a quick but very satisfactory investment. 
After rummaging the quays of Paris in vain, I here stumbled 
upon the objects of my earnest desire. I think everything in 
Rouen looked better after my purchase of sundry Woolletts 
and Sharpes, &c. 0, what steep streets, what narrow streets, 
what beetling house-tops, what moss-covered fountains, what 
dusty, cobwebbed curiosity -shops, I passed, that hot morning ! 
" There ! there ! " says good Dr. Linsly, as he caught the 
west front of the cathedral, " what a church ! " And it is indeed 
a sight to wonder at, admire, and then think about. I wanted 
to stand and spend an hour at this spot. No engraving can 
describe the glories of this front. It reminds me of Wells Cathe- 
dral, which was the first large ecclesiastical pile of great merit 
which I saw ; and I well remember that it afiected me to illness ; 
it overpowered my mind, at my childish age. This front is one 
hundred and eighty feet wide, and one hundred and fifty feet at 
its loftiest pitch. It has three porches between the two towers, 
and the bas-reliefs are illustrative of Herodias' dancing, and the 
decapitation of John the Baptist. We entered by the middle 
door, and at once saw the length and altitude of the nave. Our 
attention was directed to the lantern of the tower, which is 
upheld by four immense pillars, which cluster thirty-one col- 
umns into a circumference of forty feet each. The windows of 
this edifice are one hundred and thirty, and these are the best 
specimens of painted glass in France, especially those of the time 
of the Renaissance, The rose windows of the transept and over 
the organ are deemed matchless. One of these represents the 
Father, surrounded by angels, with music; and again these are 
surrounded by ten angels, each holding emblems of the Passion. 



HEART OF RICHARD COEUR DE LION. 195 

The dimensions of the cathedral are about four hundred and forty 
feet in length, the transept one hundred and seventy-five feet, 
and the nave is ninety feet high. The chapels are twenty-five in 
number, and I noticed several females at the confessional. Old 
^oUo lies in the chapel of St. Remain ; he was removed here 
"rem the nave in 1063. Here is the grave and monument of 
fohn, Duke of Bedford, the Regent of France, 1435. King 
Louis XI. was great enough to refuse to destroy this tomb. His 
language was, " I say, God save his soul ; and let his body 
now lie in rest, which, when he was alive, would have disquieted 
the proudest of us all ! " The most splendid monument here was 
that of the two Cardinals Amboise — uncle and nephew. The 
uncle was the liberal restorer of this church. The monument is 
of black and white marble, — the figures, of white marble, kneel- 
ing beneath an elaborate Gothic canopy. Below is St. George, 
in gilt; and the frieze is surrounded by six small female sculp- 
tures, which are emblems of the virtues displayed by the 
cardinals. In this church is the grave of Richard Cosur de 
Lion. I was interested in looking at the freestone statue which 
decorated his tomb. He is in a recumbent posture, his head on a 
cushion, and his feet against a crouching lion. A search was 
made in 1838, and the heart of Richard was found in a double 
box of lead, and on it this inscription, in letters of that age : 

Hic : JACET : COR : richardi : regis : 

ANGLORUM. 

This heart our party afterwards saw in the museum, in the glass 
case in which it was originally placed. It had much the appear- 
ance of a piece of leather, but was evidently a heart. We were 
all pleased with the tomb of Louis de Breze, 1531. This monu- 
ment was erected by his widow, Diana of Poictiers. This is a 
monument having four pillars of black marble, between which is 
a coffin, on which is laid a white marble statue of the deceased. 



196 ABBEY OF ST. OUEN. 

The body is quite naka^ — the left hand on the breast. This is 
a wondrous resemblance of death. Diana is kneeling at the 
head. She afterwards forgot her sorrows in the arms of the 
Second Henry. Over the monument, the warrior is on horseback 
in full armor. I should much like to have an engraving of this 
tomb. A fine staircase leads to the ancient library. In the 
altar of the Lady Chapel is a grand picture, " The Adoration of 
the Shepherds," by Philip de Champagne. The exterior of this 
edifice is grandeur itself. The west fa§ade was built by Cardi- 
nal Amboise. The spire was burned in 1822; but a cast-iron 
open-work pyramid now takes its place, composed of two thousand 
five hundred and forty pieces, and put together by twelve thou- 
sand eight hundred and seventy-nine iron pins ; its elevation four 
hundred and thirty-six feet, and its weight one million two hun- 
dred thousand pounds. 

We now went to the Abbey of Saint Ouen, the oldest church 
in Normandy. It was founded in 533, in the days of Clothaire 
I. The Normans landed in 841, and burned it ; but Rollo, on 
becoming a Christian, rebuilt it. It was built and rebuilt; but, 
in 1236, ten years after its completion, the work of eighty years 
was destroyed by fire. Again was it burned in 1248. Early in 
the fourteenth century this edifice was commenced, and was 
finished early in the sixteenth. I was again awe-struck with 
this western rose-window, of which Dibdin said such beautiful 
things, declaring this church " could hardly have a rival, and 
certainly not a superior." Here are one hundred and twenty- 
five Avindows, and the dimensions about the same as the cathe- 
dral. I really felt grateful to the workmen who are so carefully 
repairing this exquisite piece of architecture. I must say no 
more of this precious pile, but away to other objects ; only 
observing that I saw the ruins of noble churches now used.*is 
warehouses and factories. 

Rouen reminds me of Chester ; but it looks more ancient, far, 
than that city. We hurried to the markets, and found every- 



OLDEST HOUSE IN llOUEN. ' 197 

thing exposed for sale that can be imagined. As we walked 
along, we could not help paying attention to the strongly-built 
Norman Horse, which looks like the embodiment of endurance. 
We now went to the Palace of Justice, built 1499. A more 
beautiful bit of architecture cannot be found in France. The 
roof has no pillar of support. This edifice is one side of a 
square, and is adorned with all that the architecture of the age 
understood of delicacy and splendor. The angular pillars of the 
piers are covered with canopied statues and miniature steeples ; 
numerous ornaments surround the windows, a leaden balustrade 
surmounts the roof, and an elegant octangular turret occupies the 
middle of the fac^ade. Hence a massive flight of stone steps 
leads to the Salle des Procureurs. The Palace of Justice is 
almost as beautiful as the Hotel de Ville, at Brussels. 

We were all anxious to find our way to the Place de la Puceile, 
where Joan of Arc was burned, in 1431, in accordance with the 
superstition of that age. How little is popular opinion worth ! 
One generation says. Crucify ! — the next says, Hosanna ! This 
girl was burned for a heretic, and is now well-nigh worshipped 
for a saint. Here, turning from the spot, we found a house 
regarded as one of the oldest in Rouen. At the left-hand en- 
trance the wall is covered with bas-relief figures, representing 
Henry YIII. and Francis I. going to the Champ de Drap d'Or. 
Here, in this very hall and entry, walked the gay and jovial 
monarch Francis L, and in this gateway sounded his bugles. 
The work on these walls is very elaborate, and every portion of 
the relievo ought to be engraved. Prevort, who has published a 
memoir on this building, called " The Hotel da Bourgtheroulde," 
fixes its date at 1486. 

The roofs of the houses are covered with wood, in various 
tile-shapes. I stopped at several shops, to admire the cabinet 
furniture. The wood is chiefly black walnut, and several articles 
were of great beauty of finish. 

The ladies were mostly bent on seeing sights, at a rate which 



198 HAVRE — DISTINGUISHED VISITORS. 

some of us thought beyond the bounds of moderation ; and Mrs. 

T and I quietly retraced our steps, and found the comfort 

of a good dinner no mean restorative of wearied nature. I got, 
in Rouen, some glimpses of the neighboring heights, which satis- 
fied me that from their summits a prospect of the valley of the 
Seine, with the antique towers of this incomparable old city, 
would amply repay the wayfarer who should ascend them. On 
the stone bridge is a statue of Corneille, who was born here. 

Our route to Havre, by rail, was in the dark, and we saw 
little, of course. On reaching Havre, we found the operation of 
coaling going on ; and a sad, dirty afi'air it is, especially in wet 
weather. We passed the Sabbath day here, and attended service 
at the English church, where we heard a rather dull sermon. 
The American Sailors' Chapel was not open that Sunday, owing 
to the absence of the chaplain. At this port we met with the 
Humboldt steam-ship, and had much pleasure in welcoming her 
commander, Captain Lyndes, on board the yacht. He is a fine 
specimen of the American seaman. Captain Eldridge and his 
friend Lyndes had a good time ; they are men made for each 
other. 

While the North Star lay at Havre, she was visited by thou- 
sands of persons, many of whom came from Paris and other 
cities. Among other distinguished visitors was the Minister at 
War. We were under many obligations to Mr. Vesey and Mr. 
Smith, for kind attentions ; and, on Monday, July 25, we steamed 
ofi" for the Mediterranean, amid the cheering of a large crowd 
gathered upon the docks. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

VOYAGE KESUMED — BAT OF BISCAY — VIGO BAY — LOSS OP ROBERT 

OGDEN FLINT — BOCK OF LISBON — CAPE ST. VINCENT TRAFALGAR 

TABIFA — COAST OF AFRICA — ROCK OF GIBRALTAR — MALAGA 

QUARANTINE WATERING VISITORS FROM SHORE FUNERAL SERMON 

CATHEDRAL BEGGARS IN THE STREETS A PRETTY BOY AND A 

STRONG RESEMBLANCE JOSE CUBEBO PRIEST WITH BELL AND BOX 

BULL RING REV. CHARLES BRERETON BISHOP OF BARCELONA 

CALECHES AND DRIVERS RIDE TO MR. DELIUS' VILLA AND VINE- 
YARDS — ALAMEDA — MULETEERS — MR. CONSUL SMITH — HARBOR 03 
MALAGA. 

Monday Juhj 25. — On a bright cheerful day we left the dock 
gates, at noon, sailing to make Cape Barfleur, La Hogue, Cas- 
ket lights, Isle of Ushant light, — having passed the channel 
islands to our left. The swell from the westward was heavy, 
and the ship's motion grew uneasy, and we soon realized the truth 
of the character usually ascribed to the Bay of Biscay ; it was 
a disagreeable pitch — 

« All the day. 
As we lay 
In the Bay of Biscay, ! " 

but we were spared from appropriating to our own experience 
the entire song of old Andrew Cherry. We now made Cape 
Finisterre, on the morning of the 28th, with a clear balmy sky, 
and moderate breeze from the north-west. We ran down the 
bold coast of Spain, and skirted it closely, so as to obtain fine 
views of its prominent points. Cigars were again in brisk 
demand, and the temperature was as fine as we could desire. 
Our distance from shore was from five to eight miles ; we looked 
into Vigo Bay, and, with our glasses, had a distinct view of 
17 



200 LOSS OF KOBERT OGDEN FLINT. 

Camina, the boundary town between Spain and Portugal, and 
here we saw an English homeward-bound steamship. 

On the morning of the 29th, at about half-past five o'clock, I 
heard an unusual noise on deck, and the cry of " man overboard." 
I hurried up, and found Mr. Cope and three of the sailors get-|, 
gijig down the boat, and just got a glimpse of a poor fellow, with 
his hands up, astern. I was, with others, busy in throwing over 
the life-preserving stools, before I asked who the man was. I 
was grieved to learn that it was Mr. Flint, one of our quarter- 
masters. The boat was off, our steamer stopped, and a search 
of an hour made, but in vain ; the ocean was calm, but our poor 
shipmate was unable to swim, and he probably went down almost 
without a struggle. As we had been going fast, we were far 
from him instantly, and the chances were small to recover one 
who had no power to sustain himself. He was on the quarter 
deck when the men were shifting the main-sheet, and a flap from 
it struck him off as he stood at. the extreme edge of the stern, 
outside the netting. With heavy hearts we watched the boat 
slowly return from the unsuccessful search, and we left Robert 
Ogden Flint to rest in his ocean grave till the sea shall give up 
its treasures. All was done by Captain Eldridge and Mr. Cope 
that was possible. The sad event took place in N. lat. 39, 55, 
and 9, 43 W. long. This was our only gloomy day since leav- 
ing New York. Mr. Flint was a young man of respectable 
connections ; his father was an eminent physician in Massachu- 
setts, and his brother. Dr. Flint, of Buffalo, one of the most 
scientific practitioners in our country. Our young friend was 
fond of his profession, and we had often spoken of him as afford- 
ing high promise; he was only twenty years of age, had just 
been promoted at Havre to the rank of quarter-master ; highly 
intelligent and affable, he had made himself a favorite with all 
our party. Our hearts ached for his widowed mother, and we 
offered sincere prayers that God, the widow's God and husband, 
would comfort her in her sore bereavement. At a subsequent 



ROCK OF LISBON — CAPE ST. VINCENT. 201 

period, a gentleman started a subscription paper, which was 
filled up by the officers, crew, and the members of the party, to 
place a suitable monument to the memory of Mr. Flint, in the 
Greenwood cemetery ; and, as I am writing, I learn that a 
granite one is in course of erection. 

Coasting south, we came to the Farilhoens, and steered close 
to the Burlings isles and light, which lie a little off the shore. 
These islands are high, rugged-looking rocks, and they made 
quite an appearance from our deck. The Farilhoens have near 
them a cluster of islets, called the Estellas. Our course was 
then direct for Cape Roca, or the Rock of Lisbon ; to this we 
came very close at twelve o'clock. Behind the rock I observed 
that the land rose to a great elevation, with many ridges. On 
the northern slope of this range stands the town of Cintra. We 
longed to visit this fine city, — visit the beautiful Cintra ; and 
still more I desired to meet with a friend whose society on a 
former voyage had made much of the pleasure I experienced in 
crossing the ocean. This was the Honorable Mr. Haddock, who 
represented the United States at the court of Portugal. To be 
so near him and his charming family, and yet not see him, was 
a mortification. We made direct for Cape St. Yincent, — re- 
membering Jarvis and Nelson in 1797, — and passed so close as 
to have a capital view of this remarkable headland, on the 
summit of which stands a venerable-looking convent, with several 
towers. What a look-out the old monks must have had over the 
Atlantic waves ! And though to-day it was bliss to breathe the 
clear, warm element of life, and all around was calm as a summer 
evening, yet I fancy that Cape St. Yjncent is familiar with other 
phases of ocean wave. The cape is very precipitous, and off 
to the north it presents some broken rocks, which stand up like 
the Needles. Off this cape we passed five steamers. We 
pursued our course to the straits, passing by Cadiz, into which 
we had a pleasant peep, and then on over Trafalgar Bay, where 
the subject of conversation was chiefly upon Nelson and his Vic- 



202 . TARIFA — ROCK OF GIBRALTAR. 

tory. I could not forget that in these same Avaters another of 
Britain's great and gifted sons had found his last resting-place. 
It was off Trafalgar that Sir David Wilkie was buried, from the 
Oriental steamship, in 1842. We were off the cape July 30th, 
at twelve o'clock. The elevation of this famous spot is not 
considerable, and on one of its corners stands a round tower. 
This is the north-western point of the entrance to the straits, 
and we now shaped a line to Tarifa, a very old and fine- 
looking place, settled by the Moors, and called after a Berber 
chief. It has long since lost the importance which it once pos- 
sessed. The town looked venerable and picturesque, but small 
for a population of more than ten thousand. In 1812 it was 
possessed by the- English, and was besieged by Marshal Victor, 
who was compelled to retreat. The light-house stands on an 
island rock, and on this is the chief fortress of the town. This 
is the most southerly point of Europe. All around us were 
ships of various descriptions, making for the Mediterranean, with 
a fine westerly breeze. Our awning was now desirable, as the 
sun was very powerful ; and under its shade we greatly enjoyed 
the prospect, as we gazed upon the African coast from Cape 
Spartel down to Ceuta. The shore is grand and rugged, and is 
very high, elevated in some places to about three thousand feet. 
But every eye is turned to the north-east, and many voices 
exclaimed, " Tliere 's the R.ock ! " 

Never was I more enchanted with the sight of any spot than 
that of Gibraltar. This was the accomplishment of a day-dream of 
early life ; and now here I was, under a class of advantageous 
circumstances such as I co^ild never have anticipated, and few 
men can possibly enjoy. The straits are nearly twelve miles 
wide, and the prospect on either coast is clearly defined. There 
we were now off Gibraltar ; we slowly passed, and every opera- 
glass was in requisition. We did not propose to stop till our 
return ; and now only looked at the crouching lion, of which it 
ha? been said that the rock is a striking resemblance. " His fore 



GIBRALTAR — AFRICAN COAST. 203 

lipnri high and massive, rests upon the fore-paws, doggedly over- 
looking the lo\Y bcnr-'h, Vv'hich, Nahant'Jil-e, connceis it with 
Spain; and the bristling mane and back arc the rock oulauc 
against the sky. The formidable monster is three miles long 
from the forehead and nose to the tip of the tail, and of the 
exact proportions in height and breadth of a well-shaped lion. 
Against his 'left ribs are a brood of houses, which nestle under 
his protection, and are washed by the waves of the bay." This 
very graphic description is taken from "The' Shores of the 
Mediterranean," a work written by the Hon. Francis Schroeder, 
our present Charge d' Affaires at Sweden, and published by the 
Harpers in 1846. Of these volumes I would say that I read them 
with pleasure, on their issue from the press, and very carefully 
consulted them whilst coasting through the sea ; and I am so satis- 
fied of their accuracy, and impressed with the great beauty of their 
free sketches of scenery, that I would earnestly advise no travel- 
ler to go through the 3Iediterranean without them; and all persons 
who desire to have an acquaintance with these enchanting shores, 
and cannot go abroad, to study them carefully. I regard Mr. 
Schroeder's work as tlie best guide-book extant ; and I am sure 
that the wayfarer who may use these volumes will often thank 
their author for much enjoyment. 

The African coast attracted me, with its lofty Abyla, on whose 
summit was a fleecy cloud; far away was the range of the Atlas 
Mountains. Abyla was the African pillar of Hercules, and Calpe 
the European one. At eight o'clock we were beyond the rock, 
and in this latitude there is no northern twilight, but 

" As sets the sun on Afrie's shore. 
One instant — all is night." 

We lay our course off for Malaga, and the night was thick and 
murky, but at day-light, on Sunday, July 31st, we were in its 
charming bay. 

As soon as we had anchored, our parly wore on deck, and I 
never saw persons more charmed than vre ail were v/ith the 
17^ 



204 OFF MALAGA — QUARANTINE. 

splendid panoranica which lay before us. The town is built on 
a circular bay ; — it is on a gentle hill, and all around is a back- 
ground of lofty and romantic mountains. Directly in front of 
us was the cathedral, a very large and imposing edifice ; off to 
its left a ravine, between the mountains, and a plain, on which a 
large part of the city is built, and through which runs a small 
river. Off further left, are vast manufactories and lofty chim- 
neys, which make a fine show against a blue and cloudless sky ; 
and away to the right of the cathedral is a picturesque Moorish 
castle, and immense fortifications, with zig-zag roa^s up to them, 
that, as wc look up at them from the deck of our yacht, seem 
impracticable for anything but goats or mules. The city is very 
fine looking, a great deal of white and green. We are pretty 
close in, — and what a noise and clatter ! A Spanish lad, who 
belongs to our ship, is a native of Malaga, and he tells me that 
it comes from the market, which is now just opened, and hundreds 
are praising their fish, flesh and fiowl ; and he says the noise 
will increase till nine or ten o'clock, — and we found it so. Now 
the health-officer came off, and found that we came from France, 
which receives ships from parts of Europe where cholera exists ; 
so we are to perform two days' quarantine. Well, be it so, — 
with such a sky, such a temperature, such a prospect, I never 
could be better off. And there came a boat full of good things, 
vegetables of all sorts, but, best of all, grapes ; the grapes of 
Muscat, the Frontinac and Sweet Water. We all felt acquiescent, 
and unanimously voted that quarantine was not so bad a thing 
as we had heard it alleged to be. 

But I suspect that, after all, quarantine is not always seen 
from the deck of a steam yacht, by men sitting under a spacious 
canopy, and surrounded by every luxury. Our consul, Mr. Smith, 
came off, and from his boat held a friendly chat, and we made 
arrangements for our supply of water. 

This had to be brought us in hogsheads by boats, and then 
they were hoisted into the yacht ; and on their return to the 



VISITORS — MALAGA — CATHEDRAL. 205 

boat, it was amusing to see the farcical purification to which 
they were subjected before they were again deposited. Each 
hogshead was abundantly aspersed and besprinkled with salt- 
water. Nothing but money escaped, and that seemed to be 
regarded as the root or cause of no evil. We received an assur- 
ance from the town authorities that at twelve o'clock on Tuesday 
our imprisonment should terminate. And, as soon as the hour 
arrived, the bay was crowded with boats and feluccas, and we 
had visitors in shoals ; and some of them were really not likely 
soon to be forgotten. We had on board our ship that day some 
of the prettiest girls I ever saw ; and the older ladies, too, had 
eyes of wondrous power. The Spaniards were in ecstasies with 
the ship, and I think hundreds that day enjoyed the visit. The 
governor and his staff honored us with their company. Our 
great object in submitting to quarantine was to obtain a clean 
bill-of-health for the Mediterranean ports. The thermometer 
was at eighty-five, as we sat looking from our awning over the 
bay of about fifteen miles' extent. 

On the Sabbath-day we observed our service at eleven o'clock, 
and I preached a funeral-sermon for our lost friend, Mr. Flint, 
from Jeremiah 12 : 5 — " What wilt thou do, in the swellings of 
Jordan ? " 

In the absence of our visitors, we took our boats and landed in 
Malaga — most of us for the first time touching Spanish ground. 
Our first attention was directed to the cathedral, which we had 
looked at for two days. This stupendous temple was begun by 
Philip II. in 1538, and only finished in 1719. The style is not 
good ; it wants unity. It is intended for Grecian, and has a 
bold facade between two dwarf towers. The interior is very 
rich, and yet not in keeping. The choir has good carved work, 
and the roof is richly adorned with oak and chestnut carvings. 
The pulpit is very fine, of reddish marble. I noticed several 
pictures, but the light was bad. A Madonna struck: me as good. 
The choristers were preparing for vespers, and a dirty-looking ^i 



206 BEGGARS IN THE STREETS. 

of children they were. I observed one boy who had six fingers 
and a thumb on his left hand. Leaving the church, we were 
surrounded by a crowd of children, half-grown men and women, 
and several old crones. I think our body-guard numbered from 
twenty to thirty, and they stuck close to us ; and, as we were 
some sixteen or eighteen, we made quite an array passing through 
the narrow streets of Malaga, many of which were not more 
than ten feet wide. If we entered a shop, they guarded the 
doors, and as we came out they smiled and took up their march. 
Some of the boys were, though poorly clad, of exquisite beauty. 
One, about thirteen, was as fine a faced boy as is often seen. 
Murillo would have made a picture of the chap. I see him now, 
all radiant with smiles. He attached himself to our party closely, 

and greatly pleased Mrs. , who imagined that his glorious 

black eyes strongly resembled those of her dear absent boy of 
the same age, whom she had left at home. Again and again did 
she speak of the strong resemblance, and called my attention to 
the fact. Presently her kind feelings, which were strongly en- 
listed towards the lad, led her to ask her husband to give him 
a quarter-dollar, which he received with sunny smiles, and then 
deposited in his mouth for safe-keeping. Again the lady ex- 
claimed, " 0, how much he resembles my dear ! " There he 

was at her side trotting along and looking up in her face, when sud- 
denly he unbuttoned his ragged pants, pulled out the tail of his 
shirt, whipped the coin from his mouth, tied it up in the corner of 
the nether garment, and went on readjusting his dilapidated trou- 
sers. I could not help asking Mrs. , " Now is he not the very 

picture of your boy ? " We visited the celebrated Jose Cubero, 
who is the maker of the Malaga terra-cotta images of the Spanish 
characters in national costume. These images are admirably 
painted. We purchased several, but they are expensive here, 
and in England and America are very costly. We were accosted 
by a priest, who rang a bell and held a small box in his hand for 
alms. On asking what the objects of his solicitation were, we 



BULL-KING — REV. CHARLES BRERETON. 207 

were informed tlia': a murderer was to be garrotted the next day, 
and the good padr3 was taking up alms to pay for his funeral 
masses. Such is Popery in Spain. They can " pray a soul out 
of purgatory ;" but even this poor murderer must bring fish to 
the priest's net. 

We now went to the bull-ring, an immense amphitheatre, 
capable of holding ten thousand persons. We were taken into 
the apartments where the animals are kept. Saw one in his 
prison-house, — the implements of torture, the saddles, &c. A 
great bull-fight came off a week before our arrival. We visited 
the Church of the Martyrs, a fine building, but had no time to 
examine its interior as I could have wished. We were sadly 
fatigued with a heat perfectly tropical. 

Among our visitors from this town was the Rev. Charles 
Brereton, the English chaplain, and his family; with him I 
had a pleasant interview ; and, on landing, I found he had kindly 
sent his secretary to render me any aid in making my way. Mr. 
Brereton preaches regularly at the house of the English consul, 
Mr. Marks, who was now absent. But his excellent mother, a 
fine old lady, whose husband established divine service in his 
consulship, came on board. From the chaplain I learn that 
about one hundred English Protestants reside here, and eight 
hundred and fifty British sailors come into port during the three 
months of vintage ; and then there are many American seamen 
and visitors. About three hundred British travellers visit Mal- 
aga every year. Mr. Brereton and Mr. Marks have succeeded 
in getting a beautiful cemetery for the use of Protestants, and 
the way in which it is planted and adorned is an honor to them 
and all who have aided them. A more befitting spot for the 
worn-out pilgrim at the end of life's journey I have seldom seen. 
This was the first burial-place granted to Protestants in Spain. 
Now an effort has been made to secure one in Madrid ; but the 
Bishop of Barcelona has fiercely denounced the measure, and he 
is unwillino; tc allow religi' is rites at the s^'^ve. 



208 CALECHES AND DRIVERS. 

Amongst other pleasant things, this Catholic bishop says, 
"The desired of the nations, God, and true man, conversed with 
men, and formed his church. He placed in it as his vicar the 
most high PontiflF, centre of unity, rector, doctor and universal 
master. Whoever is not with him is not in the church ; and 
whoever has not the church for mother has not God for Father. 
Without necessity of prolix explanations, what is a Protestant ? 
An unfortunate, a bastard, without father or mother, and conse- 
quently without God." 

I hope, if any Americans visit Malaga, they will call on Mr. 
Brereton, who seems imbued with the spirit of his office, and is 
a liberal, Christian man. He resides here on account of his 
health, and speaks loudly in praise of the climate. I think a 
winter here must be pleasant for the invalid. Having received 
in the morning an invitation to visit the vineyard of a wealthy 
Spanish gentle'man, we took carriages and drove some three miles 
into the country. The vehicles hired were caleches, and held 
four persons. Besides several of these, we had a gig that held 
two, and the driver sat on the side. 0, how much of .amusement 
would that procession have created in Broadway ! I did not 
imagine that such carriages and such drivers could be obtained 
in such a city as Malaga. The man who drove one caleche posi- 
tively resembled a baboon. He might have been an importation 
from Abyla, the ape's mountain. His face was the most shriv- 
elled-up affair I ever saw, — of a tawny-red color, with an awful 
grin, — whilst his arms and legs were in perpetual spasmodic 
motion. The harnesses were exceedingly rude. The head-stalls 
run down to an iron nose-piece, of semi-circular form, a half-inch 
wide, strapped over the nose, and having in it two rings ; from the 
outside one of which a rein passes to the driver, and from the 
inside one of which a rein is attached to the corresponding ring 
of the mate in a double team. This nose-piece answers the 
purpose of a bit. The team is guided by single reins. Through 
the pole, about a foot from its outer end, is an iron pin project- 



KIDE TO MR. DELIUS' VILLA ANL> VINEYARDS. 209 

ing its extremities some four or five inches ; outside this pin is a 
layer of three or four strands of half-inch rope, folded around 
and then twisted together so as to bring it snugly against the 
backing-pin, and thence separated to run through supports on 
the collar, and thence to large rings in the breeching, which is 
of leather, and three inches wide. 

Our ride out of the city was very pleasant, but we were 
jolted over the worst road I ever travelled ; leaving Welsh ones 
with a character of comparative goodness. We passed an acque- 
duct, and here for the first time saw the prickly-pear in its 
gigantic form, making an impenetrable boundary -hedge. It was 
now covered with its yellow fruit, which we did not think as 
palatable as did the urchins of Malaga, who were munching it at 
every corner. We now realized that we were in a tropical cli- 
mate, for on every side we saw the agave, or American aloe, 
and in several instances had the gratification of looking at its 
towering, spear-like blossom. A ride of about three or four 
miles brought us to the charming habitation of Edward Delius, 
Esq., a merchant of Malaga. The name of this estate is, I 
think, Teutinos. The house is an elegant summer residence, and 
the grounds were laid out in much taste immediately around it. 
I perfectly revelled in the show of geraniums, myrtles, ranuncu- 
luses and oleanders. At every turn we took in these grounds 
we met with orange and lemon trees in full blossom, and the fig 
in several varieties. The vineyard occupies about fifty acres ; 
and here we found the delicious muscatel just ripening, and picked 
its noble clusters from the scrubby vines. The prospect from 
these gardens of the city is very fine ; and, as the cathedral 
loomed up in the evening sky, and beyond it were the blue waters 
of the Mediterranean, and the dark Moorish castle and its bat- 
tlements frowning over all around, we thought that we could 
spend more time with our kind host very agreeably ; but we were 
obliged to take leave. In walking to our carriage, I observed 



210 MR. CONSUL SMITH — HARBOR OF MALAGA. 

that Mr. Delius had some Durham cattle on his place, and they 
looked m good condition. 

On our return, we rode through the Alameda, which is well 
shaded by fine trees, and under which the pretty women were 
using their fans most bewitchingly. This spot is adorned with 
statuary and fountains. We walked through the Zacatin, a sort 
of bazaar. It has some good shops, and the buildings are sup- 
ported by columns. We resumed our carriages and drove round 
the mole, and had a fine view of the vast Moorish castles, Gib- 
ralfaro, and the ruins of Alcazaba, which crown the overhanging 
mountain. The soldiers were just marching up the zig-zag road 
to relieve guard for the night. The costume of the muleteers, 
who come into town with mules and assesT and are numerous, is 
very picturesque. The gay handkerchiefs, and richly-buttoned 
jackets, and heavy leather leggings, make quite a figure ; and 
Jose Cubero has immortalized them in his capital statuettes. I 
am sure we all felt indebted to the friendly attentions of Mr. 
Consul Smith ; and it was with reluctance that we were obliged 
to decline the friendly proposals for our more public entertain- 
ment the next day. At about eight o'clock we mustered our 
party, and, shaking hands with our kind Malaga friends, rowed 
ofi" to the North Star. 

No place have I ever seen to which- the approach is more 
impressive. The back-ground of mountains is superb, and the 
outline of the city at the water-edge is very pleasant. No win- 
ter is experienced at this place, and the air is balmy. We all 
thought that we had never breathed so freely as whilst anchored 
in this charming harbor ; and I really think our sympathies with 
those who sufier from quarantine will always be abated, in conse- 
quence of our delightful recollections of the days of our embargo 
oif Malaga. This harbor can receive four hundred merchantmen 
and twenty ships-of-the-line, and is accessible in all winds, and 
affords complete shelter to shipping. 



CHAPTER XV. 

OFF FOR LEGHORN — CARTIIAGENA — IVICA — MAJORCA — MINORCA — COR- 
SICA SCENERY GORGONA LEGHORN HOTEL ST. MARCO FREE 

PORT OPERA SCOTCH FREE CHURCH — SERVICE ON SABBATH — STREETS 

ADMIRABLY PAVED EVENING SERVICE THE PARSONAGE-HOUSE GOS- 
PEL IN ITALY. 

August 2. — At half-past nine p. m., we steamed off for Leg- 
horn ; standing out from the light about five miles, and making 
a direct course for Cape de Gat, and running in very close to the 
Spanish coast. Wednesday, the 3d, we had fine views of the 
grand and mountainous shores ; which, however, under a scorch- 
ing August sun, looked brown and barren enough. Rounding 
Cape de Gat, we made for Carthagena, the new Carthage of the 
Komans. We were off this place in the afternoon. It lies in a 
deep basin, and is well sheltered, having one of the best harbors 
of the Mediterranean Sea. We longed to enter, but were obliged 
to content ourselves with a sight. The population is about thirty 
thousand. This evening, we saw fifty-three sail at once from 
our deck, and met two British steamers. Our lightest clothing 
now came into requisition. We next passed Cape Palos in full 
sight, with its square tower, and then bore away for the north 
coast of Ivica, distant about seven miles. All along its shores 
we observed watch-towers on the chief headlands, and passed a 
rock which resembled a venerable cathedral. We now bore 
away for Majorca, and coasted it at a distance of about five miles, 
having a fine view of its grand shores. The scenery is very 
romantic ; and, from the Drogonera Island light to Cape For- 
menton, the voyage was one of exquisite enjoyment. The sea 
18 



212 LEGHORX. 

was of glassy smoothness, and off to our right c:.e long succes- 
sion of ever-changing beauty for about fifty miles. The hills 
are some of them most tastefully formed, their peaks lancet- 
shaped, and the summits of many are tipped with snow. The 
slopes of these mountain ranges, which appear to be volcanic, 
are luxuriant vineyards, and inland the island is very productive ; 
its exports are grapes and oranges. In the evening, late, we 
passed off Minorca, and saw its lighthouse, on the north-eastern 
coast. The wind rose during the night, and the 5th was a rough 
day, the sea quartering upon us, and raking from the Gulf of 
Lyons. During the night, the ship rolled. In the early morn- 
ing, we were off the coast of Corsica, made Cape Ridellata, and 
crossed the Gulf of Fiozenzo. The sun rose gloriously behind 
the mountains. We then passed Giraglia revolving light, and 
on close to the small island of Gorgona, so famous for its 
anchovies. We now made direct line for Leghorn, and anchored 
in its harbor August 6th, at two p. m. 

The appearance of this city is fine from the water, and its 
fortifications and grand Lazaretto give it a very imposing aspect. 
We were boarded by a health officer, and ordered on shore, where 
we soon had our passports put in order, and were allowed to 
land, Mr. Binda, our consul, becoming our security. 

Here are two large basins, which are shut up at night by a 
chain and boom, and the entrance is strongly guarded by import- 
ant fortresses. The mole extends almost a mile seaward, is 
a favorite promenade, and, running out parallel with the sea, 
forms the harbor. The lighthouse stands upon a rock, and is a 
pretty feature in the view of the town. We went immediately 
to the St. Marco Hotel, kept by Mr. Smith, an Englishman. 
We found this a very well-conducted establishment, with spacious 
rooms, and an excellent table. The walls are covered with pic- 
tures, and some are quite good ones. After dinner, we walked 
out, made a few purchases, and found all articles of clothing as 
cheap as we could desire. This is a free port, and the stores 







m 



\\ \imr^ 



OPERA — SCOTCH FREE CHURCH. 215 

are admirably supplied with English and French goods. Wc 
went to a cafe, and, after having partaken of some capital cream 
and water ices, were surprised at finding how trifling the charge 
was made for them. Some members of the party attended the 
opera, and the performance was Semiramis. They returned much 
pleased, and reported the soprano, contralto, barytone and basa 
voices, as very superior, and the choral and orchestral perform- 
ers more efficient than they had found in London or Paris. The 
house, they said, was elegantly fitted up, and they judged the 
audience was about two thousand. There are five rows of boxes 
— in all, one hundred and thirty-six ; the Grand Ducal one 
elegantly furnished. The box-fronts are painted in illustration 
of Greek and Eoman history. The drop-curtain bears a fine 
representation of Csesar's triumphant entry into Rome. 

The Sabbath day, Aug. 7, was a delightful day. At our 
breakfast we had a fine supply of figs and peaches. After 
breakfast several of our party took the railroad for Florence. I 
remained to pass the day in Leghorn, and inquired my way to the 
Scotch Free Church. I was delighted to find so good a building. 
It is one of the neatest chapels that I ever worshipped in. It 
is a model church, for its size, and will accommodate, I should 
think, about three hundred persons. Elegance and taste are 
apparent in every arrangement; and, though destitute of any 
gaudy ornaments ; it is rich and noble in appearance, and 
would do no discredit to a palace, for a monarch's private chapel. 
I heard a capital sermon, — really an eloquent one, — from a 
gentleman who is supplying Dr. Stuart's pulpit during his visit 
to Scotland for the benefit of his health. After service, I went 
into the vestry and library, and spoke to the clergyman. He 
warmly pressed me to take the evening service, and this, too, was 
urged by Mr. Henderson, a leading member of the church ; and, 
on my consenting, we were invited to take tea in the evening 
after sermon. I found a noble library belonging to Dr. Stuart 
and a capital library for parish use. 



216 LEGHOKN — rOPERY. 

Leghorn is a well-built city, and the best paved one that I 
ever saw. The streets are wide, paved with granite blocks about 
three feet long, fifteen inches wide and six inches in depth ; 
they are very solid and even, and are laid in cement, the surface 
being chisdled to accommodate horses. The streets were really 
crowded all day ; the' people well dressed, and having a happy, 
contented air. In the evening, I noticed that the opera was 
open. After preaching at the Scotch kirk, we followed the Rev. 
Mr. Cicely and Mr. Henderson, the banker, into the parsonage, 
which is under the same roof as the chapel. At the tea- 
table we met a very learned Swiss clergyman, the Rev. Dr. 
Schaffter, who has travelled much in the East, declined several 
professors' chairs in Prussia, and is now expecting to labor as a 
missionary in Canada. Mrs. Choulcs presided at the tea-table, 
and we had a long session, dawdling, as Dr. Johnson called it, 
over our cups of tea. Mr. Cicely showed us over the spacious 
manse, which is by far the handsomest parsonage I have seen. 
The rooms are large, the ceilings lofty, and every part of the 
house commodious. The drawing-room is very elegant, with 
inlaid floor ; and all the stairways are wide, and of the finest 
workmanship. 

I would not omit to say that a small but interesting Sabbath- 
school is in connection with this place of worship. It is pleasant 
to know that pure evangelical truth is here proclaimed, even amid 
the black darkness of Popery ; and I was glad of an opportunity 
to preach the gospel in Italy, and there to join in prayer with 
God's people, that He would soon overturn the Man of Sin, who, 
impiously placing himself in the seat of the Almighty, lays claim 
to infallibility. But God declares that he will not give his glory 
to another; and Popery, by this fatal assumption of a divine attri- 
bute, has tied around her neck the apocalyptic millstone, which is 
at last to sink her to the bottomless abyss. Mr. Henderson is a 
Scotch gentleman, who has long resided here ; he is an eminent 
merchant and banker, and has a mercantile house in Liverpool 



MR. HENDERSON — TOxMB OF SMOLLETT. 217 

and Canada. He sent the first export of marble to New York, 
and a small quantity overstocked the market. Now every ship 
from Leghorn carries out vast quantities of marble from the 
quarries of Carrara. I was delighted with the general charac- 
ter of this excellent man, and much regretted my inability to 
visit him at his viila in the coantry. Mr. Henderson was as 
kind as possible, and, on our return from Florence, proffered me 
ver7 friendly letters of credit to his correspondents at Rome 
and Naples. In the English burying-ground at Leghorn is the 
gra 'e of Tobias Smollett, the novelist. 
18^ 



CHAPTER XYI. 

ABRTVK AT FLOKENCE HOTET, d'ITALIE — RIDE CITY AND STREETS, 

ETC. PITTI PALACE PICTURES — CAXOTA's VEXUS — DUKE'S APAHT- 

MBNTS MUSEUM POAVERS AND HART POWERS' STUDIO AM) II H 

WORK hart's STUDIO BUSTS OF AMERICANS STATUE OF HENRY 

CLAY UFFIZII GALLERY STATUARY TRIBUNE VENUS DE MEDICI — 

KNIFE-GRINDER, ETC. TITIAn'S VENUSES RAPHAEL'S PICTURES, ETC. 

NIOBE RUBENS POWELL'S DE SOTO, ETC. CATHEDRAL CAMPANILE 

BAPTISTERY SANTO CROCE CHAPEL OF THE MEDICI ST. LORBNZO 

SACRISTY MICHAEL ANGELO'S DAY AND NIGHT PALAZZO VECCHIO 

DUCAL PIAZZA STATUARY. 

On Monday, wc took the rail for Florence, and greatly enjoyed 
the journey, which lies through a beautiful region, giving proof 
of careful cultivation. The fields arc small, and almost every- 
where divided off by elms, mulberry and plum trees ; and these 
trees are gracefully festooned with vines laden with grapes. We 
found the depot at Florence situated in the Cascine, which is the 
Hyde Park of this city. On our way hither we had frequent 
and beautiful sights of the Arno, and saw some charming villas 
perched on the eminences above its waters. 

On arrival, we found that Mr. Vanderbilt had politely sent a 
messenger to conduct us to our quarters, which were provided at 
the Hotel d'ltalie, kept by Signor Baldi ; and here Mr. V. and 
his own family were also established. Our elegant apartments 
looked out upon the Arno, and upon the iron balcony into which 
our windows led we passed many pleasant hours watching the 
fishermen, who stood up in the water breast-high, casting a net, 
which looked like a balloon, and which they elevated every few 
minutes. The fisi appeared very small, and not as large as 



ETC. 219 

smelts. The ^^rospect beyond the river was exceedingly fine ; 
height upon height, and church and convent crowning each emi- 
nence, and then giving us glances of the bridges. That balcony 
will long live in our memories, and I commend the apartments in 
the rear of the Hotel d'ltalie, to all wayfarers. 

I always commence a new city by a ride through its streets, 
that I may have a general comprehension of the " lay of the 
land." I was at once satisfied, with a rapid survey, that Rogers 
had not overcharged its character. 

This city, which deserves its appellation, the fair, is situated 
in a beautiful valley at the base of the Apennines. It is nearly 
six miles in circumference, almost oval in its plan, and its popu- 
lation is about one hundred thousand. Many of the streets are 
narrow, but there are several very fine ones. The squares do 
not please me as much as those in other cities. The great feat- 
ure of the city is the picturesque Arno, which, shallow in the 
summer, becomes a swollen stream in winter, from the rain and 
snows of the mountains. The palaces are numerous, and very 
imposing in their appearance. Some are built of massive stones, 
in a rustic style of architecture. The walls of the city are in 
good preservation, and two or three of the eight gates are very 
handsome. The pavement is composed of broad flag-stones, and 
these, as in Leghorn, are chiselled to save the horses from slipping. 
All around the city are delightful gardens and fertile meadows. 
The four bridges which span the Arno are all fine ones ; but the 
bridge of the Trinity is regarded as the most beautiful one in 
Europe. The old bridge has a covered way, and on each side are 
jewellers' shops, or stalls. All around the city are hills covered 
with villas, churches, convents, olive-trees, and vineyards. 

Our first visit was made to the Pitti palace, which is the 
present ducal residence. It was built by Luke Pitti, who in- 
tended to rival the Strozzi palace. A reverse of fortunes caused 
it to pass from him while yet unfinished ; and, in 1559, it came 
into possession of the Medici family. 



220 riTTI PALACE — PICTURES. 

Although this palace is heavy in its appearance, owing to the 
massive rustic style, yet it is a most admirable royal habitation. 
Every part of the palace is spacious, and adapted to its purpose. 
I found everything in that order which indicated care and preser- 
vation. The entrance is by a corridor and stairway of noble 
dimensions. The great attraction is the treasure of art which is 
here to be found, both in sculpture and painting. The arrange- 
ment of the apartments deserves praise ; and, as in the gallery 
at the Hermitage, the spectator is provided with sofa, chair and 
lounge, for his comfort while enjoying this wondrous collection. 
The pictures at present number nearly five hundred and fifty ; 
and this gallery embraces the treasures of the Medici family, 
and the two last dukes have lavished vast sums in additions from 
the churches and monasteries of Tuscany. The apartments take 
their names usually from the subjects of the gorgeous frescos 
which adorn the ceilings. Thus the halls of Venus, of Mars, of 
Saturn, &c., are all adorned with allegorical descriptions of the 
virtues of the Cosmo family. The pictures which are world- 
renowned must not be criticized by the ignorant. But I may 
mention those which pleased me best, and have made a lasting 
impression upon my mind. 

Let me name the portraits first. I regard the Pope Julius 
II., by Raphael, as the grandest portrait I ever looked upon. 
The duplicate in the Uffizii is, fine as it is, another thing. I have 
seen nothing to compare with it but a portrait in St. Petersburg, 
to which, I think, I have alluded. Next, I liked Vandyke's 
Cardinal Bentivoglio, which no living painter can equal. Two 
portraits by Raphael, of a female and her husband, are wonder- 
fully eff'ective. The Leo X., by Raphael, does not strike me 
so pleasantly. The picture lacks ease, and the grouping of the 
three figures is constrained. The head of Grotius, by Rubens, 
is full of energy. A portrait of Philip II., by Titian, is a life- 
like picture ; it is all but living. An old man, by Titian, is a 
,vonderful execution. Some writers call it a Rembrandt. 



PITTI PALACE — PICTURES — SCULPTURES. 221 

The Madonna della Seggiola brought us all to stand and 
admire. I have seen good copies all over the world, but they 
lose their charm after seeing so much of heavenly beauty and 
earthly sweetness as this glorious work of Kaphael exhibits. 
After leaving this, I lingered longest over a small picture — 
Ezekiel's Vision — by Raphael. This is strangely beautiful. 
God, the Father, appears in celestial glory, surrounded by 
cherubs, his arms supported by genii, and resting on the ox, 
lion and eagle. And here, too, is an angel rapt in adoration. 
Everything is easy, free, and the eye is fastened on the canvas 
of this remarkable picture. The Fates, by Michael Angelo, is a 
very striking picture, and pleased me more than it does the 
critics usually. It is also ascribed to Rosso Fiorentino. Titian's 
Magdalen is hardly a penitent, but is perfect beauty. Two 
Marine Views, by Salvator Rosa, are exceedingly fine. A St. 
Mark, by Fra. Bartolemeo, is a grand effort. The Murder of 
Abel, by Andrea Schiavone, has a sweet bit of landscape, and is 
a picture richly deserving of careful study ; this is in coloring 
very like Titian. I dare not omit Guide's Cleopatra, of which 
I obtained a copy; and also one of the Madonna in the chair on 
ivory. In a saloon of this palace stands the famous Venus of 
Canova. I have rarely ever had my expectations so raised as 
in reference to this sculpture. I was entirely disappointed, 
although Canova was the artist, and his statue is renowned. 
The attitude is forced, unnatural, and next to impossible. The 
head cannot be turned oif at such an angle without doing a vio- 
lence to the mastoid muscle, which precludes the idea of ease and 
comfort. No being can direct the head as the Venus does, with- 
out producing a distortion of the muscle. That which is not 
natural cannot be beautiful. The finish is fine, but everything 
is over-done, too labored, and that evidently. The private rooms 
of the palace were shown us, and they are very magnificent. 
The floors are richly inlaid, and the ceilings exquisitely frescoed. 
The apartraeii';? are filled with tables of the costliest character, 



222 IIIilAM POVvERS. 

and the doors are many of them of exquisite workmanship and 



From this place we repaired to the museum. This is emi- 
nently adapted to the use of medical students, as some fifteen or 
twenty rooms are filled with wax preparations, illustrative of 
anatomy and morbid appearances of the human system, and 
several rooms are devoted to natural history. The representa- 
tions of the human body are entirely life-like, and the descrip- 
tions of the progress of the plague upon the patient are terrifically 
iHinute. The plague desolated Florence in 1348, and more than 
forty-five thousand fell as victims. 

Mr. Vanderbilt's family having pressed him to favor them by 
sitting to our honored countryman, Mr. Powers, he called at his 
studio, and made arrangements for a bust; and at the same 
time Mrs. Vanderbilt was requested by her sons-in-law to sit to 
Mr. Hart. 

Our visits were frequent to the studios, and we had much 
pleasure in examining the charming productions of the chisels 
of our distinguished countrymen. I couple these gentlemen 
together, because, though Powers is the sculptor of the world, and 
is the foremost artist of the age, still Mr. Hart has distinguished 
genius, and, with the opportunities now afibrded him to make his 
countrymen know him, will soon obtain their highest plaudits. 
Powers is a glorious, noble creature ; he is a man to look upon, 
and his eye is the finest that I know of, since death closed those 
orbs of light around whose flashes was sometimes thrown a ter- 
rible darkness, — eyes which this great artist will soon attempt to 
place forever in his country's gaze. On every side Powers has 
forms of beauty ; but I am jealous of the labors of such a man, 
when appropriated by individuals ; he should work only for cities, 
states and the Union. Talents like those granted to Powers 
should be devoted to the adornment of our national buildings, 
our halls of science, our great squares. I regard Powers as a i 
true object of American pride. If he died to-morrow, his fel- 



MR. hart's studio. 223 

low-citizens all over the Union would lament his loss ; e-v^ry 
newspaper would exult in recapitulating the wonderful works of 
his gonius ; but how few of these would be found on the high 
places of his country, to incite and stimulate the talent of the 
American youth ! Some female heads in his studio are very 
beautiful, and I was much struck with an exquisite bust just 
completed of Mrs. Penniman, of New York. His heads of the 
great men were very noble representations ; but I was far less 
pleased with that of Webster than with many of the others. 
Those of Calhoun, Cass, Everett, Winthrop, are all that can be 
asked ; but Webster is not sufficiently massive. I doubt not 
that the great work just placed in Mr. Powers' hands will be his 
chef-d'ceuvre, for he will make it, I know, a work of love. It is 
certain, when he has seen the latest representations of the 
great statesman, that he will send to Massachusetts a statue 
worthy to be placed near to Chantrey's favorite one of Wash- 
ington. 

In Mr. Hart's studio, which is elegant and spacious, I was 
delighted with his heads of Wicklifie, Cass and Crittenden. 
Governor Crittenden's bust is, I think, as perfect a realization 
of the man and his character as was ever chiselled out of marble. 
I could almost say to it, " Now utter words of wisdom, — or a 
joke." It does all but speak. The great work on which Mr. 
Hart is employed is a statue of Mr. Clay, for the ladies of Vir- 
ginia. The cast is completed, and is the only likeness of the 
great man that ever quite satisfied my eye. Nearly every bust 
and picture is a likeness, ay, and unmistakable; but generally 
there is a coarseness which did not belong to the orator. Here 
the likeness is perfect, and yet the air and spirit is gentlemanly; 
the attitude cannot be improved. We all felt that we were only 
admiring the first appearance of a work of genius which will be 
sure to become the praise of the whole country. We saw the 
immense block from which the statue is to be created. How 
long will it be ere nature's quarry shall again furnish us with 



224 UFFIZII GALLERY. 

other Clays, Calhouns and Websters ? At present, in lack of 
them, we are called to bow down to small lights, and raodorata 
talents, and magnificent pretensions. I saw Hart at work ; he, 
too, is a genius. He works easily ; has a large heart, good head, 
is no pretender, but can, with confidence, point to his labor, and 
say, " Look at it." I am sure his head of Mrs. Vanderbilt, in 
four sittings, was as complete a likeness as was ever moulded. 
Hart is about forty years of age, and his name will soon be one 
of the honored ones in the heraldry of American art. 

Mr. Powers' efi"orts on Mr. V. we all watched with great in- 
terest. The artist was delighted with the head and figure, and he 
was engaged evidently con amore ; his subject sat charmed 
with the originality of his eloquent conversation. If the result 
was not a perfect representation of a head of rare power and 
command, I am no judge, and we were all of us mistaken. 
Long as the marble lasts will that face evince its striking force 
and power. 

I shall never forget the day I entered the Uffizii gallery. It 
is to every man who makes his first visit a memorable day. The 
palace was commenced in 1560. It was built by Cosmo 
L, and is the noblest collection of statuary in Europe, if, per- 
haps, we except the Vatican. The gallery was organized in 
1765. Its two longest sides are five hundred and twenty-five 
feet long, and thirty-five in breadth. On one side there is a vast 
number of windows, to afi'ord proper light in the galleries ; all 
these apartments are lofty, and adorned with rich frescos. The 
statues and busts of the Roman emperors are exceedingly rare 
and valuable; and here are those of Agrippa, Otho, Caligula 
and Nerva. A vast many of these busts are indicative of brutal 
character. 

I hurried through this gallery of marble, that at last I might 
enjoy the desire of my life, and stand in the Tribune. Was I 
disappointed at my entrance ? No ; the apartment itself is a 
fitting home for the rich treasures which it contains. The dome 



THE TRIBUNE — SCULPTURES AND PAINTINGS. 225 

is radiant with mother-of-pearl, which is copiously inlaid, and 
the pavement is a mosaic of the costliest marbles, in the most 
tasteful forms. This is the holy place of art, and here sculpture 
and painting nobly contend for the preeminence. And there is 
Venus : — men may talk and censure long and severely ; but, so 
long as the eye can find charms in beauty, so long will this 
marble find admirers. It is another thing than Canova's, over 
in the other palace. The Scythian ordered to flay Marsyus, or, 
as some call him, the knife-grinder, is a long study. What won- 
drous knowledge of the frame the sculptor possessed ! It is life- 
like, and its details are as minute and truthful as are the pictures 
of Teniers or Ostade. The Appolino is the perfection of grace. 
The Wrestlers belong to the same class of art as the Knife- 
grinder or Scythian. The two Yenuses, by Titian, are paintings 
which do more to educate our taste for coloring in an hour, than 
a month's &urvey of painted canvas, spread over acres of common 
galleries. The portrait of Julius II., grand as it is, does not 
strike me as at all equal to the one in the Pitti palace ; both are 
by Raphael. The Fornarina did not come up to my anticipations, 
after seeing it engraved. The two Holy Families, and John in 
the Desert, are holy, heavenly things. What are paintings worth 
but for the effects which they produce on those who see them ? 
What every one feels is nature, is truth. The man who ad- 
dresses human sympathies, and speaks a language that his fellows 
comprehend, is beyond the paltry criticisms of the artists of this 
age. 

The Holy Family, of Andrea del Sarto, is as lovely a repre- 
sentation of maternal love as the gallery contains. I difier from 
many in relation to the Holy Family by Michael Angelo, called 
harsh, severe, rigid ; the wretchedly bad taste in throwing in the 
back figures has done much to destroy its efiect ; but the drawing 
is masterly. A Madonna, by Corregio, adoring the child, is very 
lovely. A Charles V. on horseback, by Vandyke, is a noble 
picture. I was greatly pleased with the pictures of the Floren- 
19 



226 POWELL'S DE SOTO — CATHEDRAL. 

tine school. A gallery of portraits of painters is interesting, 
and bere are fine autograph portraits of Raphael, Perugino, 
Velasquez, Kubens, &c. In this room, I was struck with the 
Medicean Vase, which represents the sacrifice of Iphigenia ; it is 
very ancient, and came from Greece, but was found at Adrian's 
villa. The Hall of Niobe presents these wondrous remains of 
antiquity, — statues supposed to be the work of Praxiteles. 
The Dying Son is a death-like figure. In this saloon is a picture 
which I would walk far to see again, — Rubens' Henry IV. at 
the Battle of Ivry. This is very fine, and the horse is one of 
almost unsurpassable beauty. 

This horse reminds me that I omitted to speak, in my record 
of Paris, that we were very kindly called upon by Mr. Powell, 
the distinguished artist, to invite the party to see his great pic- 
ture ordered by Congress for the last vacant niche in the 
rotunda of the Capitol. The subject, as is well known, is the 
scene of Ue Soto taking possession of the Mississippi country. 
We were very much delighted with this grand picture ; and Mr. 
Vanderbilt, an admirable judge of a horse, regards the horse on 
which De Soto sits as the best he ever saw. In the same studio 
we saw some capital portraits of Lamartine, Hugo, Dumas, and 
other famous men of the day. 

I repaired again and again to these charming rooms, and spent 
hours of happiness, which will, I hope, prove fruitful of much 
future pleasure. 

My visit to the Cathedral was on a fine morning, when a high 
mass was in celebration, and about four hundred priests were in 
full canonicals and parade. Its foundations were laid, 1298, by 
Arnolfo, and the building was designed to be between the 
pointed and ancient style. The walls on the outside are covered 
with colored marbles. Its length is four hundred and fifty-four 
feet ; its elevation from the pavement to the summit of the 
cross three hundred and eighty-seven feet; the transept three 
hundred and thirty-four feet long, the nave one hundred and 



CATHEDRAL — BRUNELLESCHI — GIOTTO. 227 

fiftj-three feet high, and the aisles ninety-six and a half feet 
high. When Arnolfo died, in 1300, Giotto became the builder, 
in 1331. He erected the facade and the campanile, which was 
his pet work. Up to the sixteenth century it was adorned with 
the best works of the great masters, especially of Donatello. In 
1558, it was almost destroyed, to be rebuilt in modern style. In 
1636, another facade was begun, but was abandoned ; and now a 
more miserable-looking, unfinished stone front can hardly be seen ; 
it looks all the worse by a comparison with the splendor of 
the rest of the edifice. A popular notion exists that churches 
in Italy are kept in an unfinished state to avoid a tax to the 
Pope, which never commences until the completion of the 
edifice. In 1420, Brunelleschi was employed to construct the 
cupola. This architect studied at Rome, and there projected 
what before was deemed impossible, namely, to unite the four 
naves of this great cathedral by throwing over them a spacious 
cupola. Although opposed by ignorance in high places and the 
selfishness of his rivals, yet he lived to complete his design, with 
the exception of some outside work, for which he left plans. 
This cupola is octagonal, one hundred and thirty-eight feet six 
inches in diameter, and one hundred and thirty-three feet three 
inches in height from the cornice of the Duomo. Its greatest 
praise is that Michael Angelo made it his model when he erected 
the dome of St. Peter's. This is the largest dome in the world. 
The exterior view from the south-east is most imposing, and here 
is seen the dome rising from the surrounding smaller cupolas. 
The dome is painted by Vassari and Zuccheri ; the subjects are 
prophets, angels, saints, Paradise, and the figures are colossal. 

I felt gratified to see the graves of Griotto and Brunelleschi, 
who sleep in close neighborhood. A David, by Donatello, is 
very fine ; and an unfinished group in the rear of the high altar, 
of the Entombment of the Saviour's body, by Michael Angelo, 
is so beautiful as to cr(?ate regret that it was not completed by 
the great artist. It was in this duomo that Julian was murdered 



228 ST. John's baptistery — santa croce. 

by the side of his brother, Lorenzo the Magnificent, in 1478. 
The general aspect of the church is fine and devotional. The 
Campanile, or tower for the bells, is the work of Giotto, and is a 
remarkable edifice ; with all its altitude, it has but four stories. 
The architect intended to surmount the tower with a spire, and 
the piers are visible which were to support the erection. As a 
matter of course, we looked after Dante's stone, where he was 
wont to gaze upon the growing wonder of the rising cathedral. 
Close by are the modern statues of Arnolfo and Brunelleschi. 

In front of the Duomo and Campanile stands the Baptistery of 
St. John. The bronze gates of this building are the chief sup- 
ports of its fame. They must be wondrously beautiful to have 
caused Michael Angelo to say that they were fit to be the gates 
of Paradise ! The south gate, designed by Giotto, was com- 
pleted by xindrea Pisano in 1330, and its erection was celebrated 
as a festival all through Tuscany. The northern and eastern 
gates were added in 1400-1422, by Ghiberti. The north gate 
illustrates the life of Christ, the south the life of John, and the 
east the events of the Old Testament. The Baptistery is an 
octagon, supporting a cupola and lantern. The wall was erected 
by Arnolfo, 1293. Vast figures in mosaic adorn the dome, and 
the Lucifer of Dante appears in the frescos. All the baptisms of 
Florence occur here ; and several of our party, at various visits, 
saw the ceremony of christening. 

From this place we turned our attention to the Westminster 
Abbey of this city, — Santa Croce. This was established by 
monks sent by St. Francis, 1212, and Arnolfo commenced this 
church 1294. The exterior is as rude as anything can be in 
architecture, but the interior is grave and majestic. Here are 
the monuments of Michael Angelo, Dante, Alfieri, by Canova ; 
Machiavelli, Fossombroni, Alberti, Galileo. A series of chapels 
are well worthy of careful notice, and in one is Bartolini's 
exquisite monument to a Russian princess. 

W had read and heard so much of the gorgeous Chapel of the 



CHURCH OF ST. LORENZO. 229 

Medici, that we fully expected a treat , nor were we at all disap- 
pointed, although I do not think it has been marked by good taste. 
It was intended for the resting-place of the holy sepulchre. This 
chapel is far from completed. The walls are literally covered up 
with the richest specimens of marble, lapis-lazuli, jasper, chal- 
cedony and Florentine mosaic, in which all the colors and 
shadings are natural to the stones employed. All the coats of 
arras of the Tuscan states and cities are ranged around, in mosaic 
work. Nothing can be more elegant than the cenotaphs of the 
Medici family. The bodies are in a crypt beneath this chapel. 
Seventeen millions of dollars have been expended upon this 
sepulchral palace ! 

The church of St. Lorenzo, which dates from 1425, has much 
that is beautiful ; and this cannot fail to be the case where 
Brunelleschi designed and Donatello adorned a building. The 
sacristy, or a small chapel, is the great attraction of this church. 
This small erection was designed by Michael Angelo to receive 
monuments for Lorenzo de Medici, the grandson of Lorenzo the 
Magnificent, and Giuliano de Medici, a son of the Magnificent. 
The monuments to these individuals are in white marble, by 
Michael Angelo, and are regarded as his undoubted master- 
pieces. They have a strong characteristic resemblance, and are 
somewhat enigmatical, as it is hard to tell what Day and Night, 
Morning and Evening, have to do with these worthies. No 
satisfactory solution has been afibrded ; but there is the marble, 
and there, as long as that marble lasts, will men congregate to 
admire, and wonder at the near approach of sculpture to lan- 
guage. 

The figure of Lorenzo creates awe. He sits in armor, and he 
chains the eye. Poor, indeed, are most other statues after this 
has been seen. I do not like the chapel in which they stand ; 
each should have a Gothic sanctuary for its own sole occupation, 
of which it should be the shrine. 

I scarcely ever walked out but I found myself attracted to 
19* 



230 PALAZZO VECCHIO. 

the Palazzo Vecchio. This building was erected 1298, and was 
the dwelling-place of the Gonfaloniere. In 1540, when the 
republic died, it became the palace of Cosmo I. I know few 
buildings that can compare with it in dark, awful grandeur. The 
battlements are massive, and the overhanging machiolations, and 
the tower springing up from their support, give it an imposing 
air, such as I have seen nowhere else. All around are wonder- 
ful things. There, is an equestrian statue of Cosmo I. ; there, a 
fountain of Neptune. Near this fountain, in the days of the 
republic, stood the Tribune. Here is the glorious David of 
Michael Angelo ; and there, as a match, is Hercules destroying 
Cacus, by Bandinelli. The David is far the finest, and belongs 
to the same class of statuary with the Medicean statues just 
alluded to in the sacristy. Here are large porticos, which you 
ascend by steps, and in front a spacious square. On these por- 
ticos are some wonderful pieces of artistic excellence. There, at 
the corner, stands the Perseus of Benevenuto Cellini, the cast- 
ing of which is so graphically recorded in his life. At the other 
end, as a match-piece, is the Rape of the Sabines, by John of 
Bologna. Judith slaying Holofernes, by Donatello, is a pretty 
bronze, but small. Here are several colossal females, lions, &c. 



CHAPTER 17II. 

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA PAINTINGS SPEZIERIA RESIDENCE OF MICHAEL 

ANGELO CHURCH OF THE ANNUNCIATION THE CASCINE SCENERY 

MOUNTAINS THE BRIDGES FRIENDS IN FLORENCE OLIVER CROM- 

•WELL'S PORTRAIT IMPRESSIONS OP FLORENCE LEAVE FOR PISA 

THE CITY LEANING TOWER CATHEDRAL CAMPO SANTO THE BAP- 
TISTERY SANTA MARIA DELLA SPINA THE CAMELS LEGHORN GOV- 
ERNMENT ALARMED AT OUR YACHT VISITORS, ETC. 

I MUST not omit a visit which we paid to the church of Santa 
Maria Novella, belonging to the preaching friars. They made a 
missionary effort here 1216, and in 1222 had a small church, the 
ground of which is included within the confines of their noble 
convent. This is a large establishment, and comprises a church, 
two cloisters, several quadrangles, refectory, sacristy, chapter- 
house, &c. This edifice is a finished one. The grand facade 
was completed 1470, in the Pisan style. The church was begun 
1279. The Campanile is a tower with a spire, which is Roman- 
esque ; but the church itself is Gothic, and is adorned with fine 
stained glass. The fresco of the choir is by Ghirlandio. In the 
arches of the roof are the four Evangelists, by Strozzi, which were 
finished 1583. Here, at the altar, is the famous Crucifix, by 
Brunelleschi. In the Strozzi Chapel are frescos of Orgagna. 
A very famous picture is in this church by Cimabue. It is a 
Virgin and Child, on a gold ground. Vasari says it was ex- 
ecuted in a garden, and carried to the church in solemn proces- 
sion, with the sound of trumpets. Several good monuments are 
to be seen ; one of a Saint Villana, canonized in 1824, but 
whose sanctity is called in question ; she is sleeping in death, 



234 RESIDENCE OF MICHAEL ANGELO. 

and two most beautiful angels are looking over her, bearing a 
scroll on which her epitaph is written. The sacristy is an ex- 
quisite room, and has fine windows of painted glass. The clois- 
ters are filled with many works of art. The chapter-house 
contains a representation of the church militant and triumphant, 
and is curious enough ; and also the triumph of the schoolman, 
Thomas Aquinas. The monks of this convent, like the shaking 
quakers, have an eye to profit, and they have long been famous 
for the preparation of medicines and essences ; and a most beau- 
tiful establishment they have, called the Spezieria, which is fitted 
up in more style and elegance than any druggist's store in Lon- 
don or Paris. We were interested in the place and the attend • 
ants, who are very polite ; they seem to drive a thriving business. 
We brought away quite a quantity of their precious perfumes. 

I felt unwilling to leave Florence without visiting the house 
in which Michael Angelo lived, and which, I understood, was full 
of his relics. We made the necessary arrangements for admis- 
sion, and repaired to the Via Ghibellina in which it stands. It 
is yet in possession of a descendant of this great man. The 
entire interior is preserved as in the time of the artist, and no 
one can doubt it on a survey. Much of the furniture remains 
as in his day. The apartments open from one to the other, and 
you meet with a step, down or up, in going from room to room. 
Here is a small saloon or gallery, the ten large panels of which 
illustrate the artist's history. They were done by the best 
painters of the age, and some of them as a work of love. One, 
Michael Angelo showing his plan of the Library to Leo X., is 
very striking. Another, in reference to Solyman proposing a 
bridge at the Dardanelles, is impressive. In one room is his 
statue, by Novelli, and near it a Holy Family, in oil. It will 
be remembered that he only painted three easel-pictures. His 
actual studio we entered with reverence, and all around were the 
works of his hands, — sketches, bas-reliefs, &c. Here are his 
brushes, color-jars, and other articles of professional use. In 



CHURCH OF THE ANNUNCIATION —^CiSCINE. 235 

one room we saw his walking-stick, his cup, his slippers, and 
some finely-preserved letters, — his rosary, his writing-desk, &c. 
We were shown a crucifix given him by the Pope, containing a 
vast number of relics, set in small circles covered with glass. I 
remember here was a bit of the stone which was thrown at 
Stephen, a bit of the true cross, a stone from the grave of Laza- 
rus, a morsel of the pillar of flagellation, and some twenty other 
equally precious pieces of papistical gammon. I was much 
pleased to see here the first marble sculptured by the artist, — a 
group in quarrel. To walk through the house of a man who 
was the favorite of seven Popes, who painted the Last Judg- 
ment, executed the Moses, and erected the dome of St. Peter's, is 
an afi'air that furnishes food for thought, and demands the exer- 
cise ol one's best afiections. 

A hasty visit to the Church of the Annunciation showed me 
that it contained many beauties. The arches spring from col- 
umns. Here are many very good paintings ; one by Andrea del 
Sarto, the Wise Men and the Star in the East, is full of beauty. 
The small chapels are exceedingly costly, and abound in silver. 
A festival service was going on, and I did not like to injure the 
feelings of those who were devoutly engaged by any mere curi- 
osity on our part. 

The Cascine, at Florence, was too renowned for the beauty of 
its drives and scenery not to have our attention ; and we fre- 
quently rode to the Royal Farms, which the name signifies. All 
that art and wealth can efi"ect by combination has been here 
efi"ected ; and the good Florentines have a place of enjoyment 
close at hand, on the banks of the Arno, which I think is unsur- 
passed in Europe, unless the Summer Islands of St. Petersburg 
furnish the exception. The drives are crowded by the rank and 
fashion of the city, and the roads are about one mile and a 
half long, and are double ; and between them are plantations, 
grass-plots, preserves of game. In front of one of the duke's 
building?, — I think the dairy, — is the circus, where you find 



236 ^ THE CASCINE. 

scores of carriages drawn up for rest, and whers the afternwn 
high exchange of fashion is held. I have seldom seen more 
beautiful equipages than we passed on the Cascine. The views 
of the villas lying off on the base of the mountains are enchant- 
ing. How any one can depreciate this ride and its scenery, I am 
at a loss to understand. Certainly, till we have any city that 
can approximate to the convenience and charm of this suburban 
region, we ought not to undervalue it, though it is not American. 
I shall ever remember the Cascine, its long range of hills, its 
sunset hours, and its charming cottages, looking like diamonds 
set in emeralds. I have been struck with the fertility of all the 
sides of the hills around. The uprising terraces seem to embody 
a vast mass of vines. The leaves of the olive-trees, with their 
delicate light-green, serve to variegate the scenery, and the tree 
itself is quite ornamental. The summits of the mountains are 
nearly all crowned with chestnut woods, and everywhere are vil- 
lages perched upon what appears at a distance an inaccessible 
spot. The chestnut is a source of great income to the inhab- 
itants of these mountain ranges ; the fruit, made into meal, 
forms the principal food of the peasantry, — and they seem to 
thrive on it ; for a nobler-looking race cannot easily be found. 
Sismondi speaks of the beauty of the women, and the clearness 
of their complexion, which probably arises from the simplicity 
of their fare. 

Our last ride in Florence was to the very top of the hill which 
formed the back-ground of our prospect in the rear of our hotel. 
We passed through the gates of the city, and drove some three 
miles up a road which, at every winding, gave us glorious 
glimpses of the beautiful city. At the summit we came to a 
convent, and from this point enjoyed the last rays of daylight on 
the Apennines. These hills reflect the sun's rays most bril- 
liantly, and give a coloring to evening light which I have seen 
in no other place. From these eminences we had all Florence 
at our feet. It was one wide scene of grove, garden, pinnacle 



BRIDGES — PORTRAIT OF CROMWELL. 237 

and tower ; and the river winding along through the Yal d'Arno, 
the fertile granary of corn, oil and wine. Go into the city, and 
there are all the treasures of art, both ancient and modern, — 

" The past 
Contending with the present." 

The bridges are all picturesque, but that of the Trinity, com- 
pleted in 1569, is exquisitely beautiful. It has three arches, of 
which the central span is ninety-five feet three inches, and that 
of the side ones eighty-five feet six inches. The rise of the 
arch is one-seventh of the span, and the arches are slightly 
pointed. On this bridge are the statues of the Seasons. The 
length of the bridge is three hundred and twenty-three feet. 

In many little affairs of business I found great service from 
the politeness of Mr. Goodban, the English bookseller, who has a 
capital collection of the best engravings. We enjoyed much 
pleasure in meeting with Mr. and Mrs. White, of New York. 
Mr. White is pursuing his profession as a painter with enthusi- 
asm, and has many fine works in his studio. In Florence we 
were happy to meet with Mr. Taylor Root, of New Haven, to 
whose kindness we were indebted for many attentions. 

My last hasty visit was to the Pitti palace, to get another 
sight of its pictures, and especially to see the famous portrait of 
Oliver Cromwell, by Sir Peter Lely. The noble old Protector 
has his likeness in the Tuscan palace ; tho. he is not yet to be 
seen in the royal galleries of the land he governed. But Eng- 
land will hereafter give him room, and perhaps place him, as 
Walter Savage Landor recently suggests, " on a charger " now 
occupied by " a royal swindler." 

I am pleased with this city ; it is as orderly as any American 
town, and the people are well-dressed and happy. I have seen 
no case of intoxication ; and, wherever I have been in a wine 
country, I have seen the people a sober one. There is nothing 



238 FROM FLORENCE TO PISA — PISA. 

wanting to make this country a liappy one, and its people a pros- 
perous and contented population, but the existence of civil and 
religious liberty ; and this blessedness will yet be the lot of its 
inhabitants. The tradesmen of Florence are very civil, and 
I saw far fewer beggars than in Malaga. The clergy of all 
sorts, dressed in black, brown, gray and white, are numerous 
in the streets; and they are decidedly a better-looking class of 
men than the Irish and French priesthood. 

We took the cars for Pisa, leaving our guide Sebastian, whom 
Mr. Yanderbilt engaged at Leghorn, to take charge of the lug- 
gage, and come on in a subsequent train, which we were to join 
at Pisa, and all go back to Leghorn in company. 

The railroad passes through a level country, but in full sight 
of a lofty range of hills. This plain is ten or twelve miles wide, 
and covers the interval between the sea and the Monte Nero 
range, on which the wealthy men of Leghorn reside in summer. 
Every part of the road indicates good farming and a contented 
population. On every hand are ruined towers, which tell of 
other days, and remind us of the civil discords whi-ch have marked 
Italian history. 

Pisa is a fine large-looking city, with wide streets, and the 
houses many of them noble in appearance ; but there are very 
few persons to be seen ; and, instead of a population of nearly 
one hundred and twenty thousand, as it is said once to have had, 
there are hardly twenty thousand residents at the present time. 
The Arno runs through the city, and it is crossed by three fine 
bridges ; the central one is of marble. This is the seat of a 
university with a large faculty, and some of the chairs are filled 
by men of eminence. The former splendor of the city is still 
visible in its desolate mansions. The great attraction to travel- 
lers is a few famous buildings, which all lie close together, — the 
cathedral, the Campanile, or, as it is designated more commonly, 
the Leaning Tower, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo. In 
the winter there are many English who reside here on account 



LEANIXU TOAVER. 239 

of the mildness of the climate, which is deemed much more 
genial than that of Florence. 

We first repaired to the Leaning Tower, which contains the 
seven bells of the Duomo. It is about thirteen feet out of the 
perpendicular, and, beyond a reasonable doubt, I think, this is 
owing to the nature of the soil in which the foundation was 
placed. The tower is round, and built of white marble ; and its 
bright appearance is remarkable when its age is remembered, as 
it is nearly seven hundred years old. It is one hundred and 
seventy-eight feet high, and the ascent is by easy steps. It has 
eight stories, each resting on arches. The prospect from the top 
is quite enough to repay the labor of the ascent, and the view 
extends to the Mediterranean, and commands a vast mountain 
range. The Duomo was commenced 1063. Its architect was 
Buschetto, a Greek ; and Kainaldo, who succeeded him, executed 
the stately fagade, with its five stories; the sides of the church 
have but three. This building is covered with marbles of various 
colors ; the roof flat, and the interior richly gilt. It is supported 
by seventy-two columns, most of which are of granite. The 
cupola is frescoed by Riminaldi ; the subject is the Creation. The 
church is lighted by one hundred painted windows, and here are 
several gems of beauty in bronze statuary, by John of Bologna. 
The paintings are very good, and among them some capital 
works of Andrea del Sarto, whose pictures do not strike me as 
being so " feeble " as they have been styled. St. Margaret, St. 
Catherine and St. Agnes, are pretty enough for belles, to say 
nothing about saints. A Sacrifice of Isaac is a picture of great 
power, and has much true conception of the father's heart. God 
Speaking from the Burning Bush is a picture not often equalled. 
The church is in the form of a Latin cross. It sufi'ered from fire 
in 1596. The beautiful bronze doors were modelled in 1602, 
but are inferior to those at Florence, by Ghiberti. One door in 
the transept escaped the fire, and contains a number of rude 
reliefs from the history of Christ. 
20 



240 CAMPO SANTO. 

A silver altar in the Chapel of the Annunciation is of great 
beauty, and is said to have cost thirty-six thousand crowns. In 
the nave is a bronze lamp of fine workmanship, which suggested 
to Galileo the idea of the pendulum. A nobler church is seldom 
entered, and it is kept in admirable order. The pavement is 
very rich, and composed of marble laid down with great beauty. 
This church is called Gothic; but is destitute of the leading 
characteristics of Gothic architecture, as clustered pillars and 
pointed arches, &c. 

I hardly know what to say of the Carapo Santo, which is an 
ancient cemetery, around which arc spacious cloisters, but is as 
much a museum as a Golgotha. It is more than four hundred 
feet long, and nearly one hundred and fifty feet wide. The 
cloisters are forty-six feet high, and thirty-four and a half wide. 
The interior is filled up with earth, brought by a crusading 
bishop from Mount Calvary, in fifty-three vessels. This struc- 
ture was commenced in 1278 over this sacred deposit. Sar- 
cophagi have been gathered* here from various quarters, and 
many stones commemorate the death of early Roman Christians. 
The principal attraction, however, is the extraordinary frescos 
which adorn the cloister walls, and aflFord the earliest specimens 
of the art. The great work of Orgagna, " The Triumph of 
Death," and the Life of Job, by Giotto, and the Drunkenness of 
Noah, by Gozzoli, are the principal subjects of interest, although 
there are a variety of other illustrations of sacred subjects. The 
costumes of these paintings are those of the age in which they 
were executed, and many an actual portrait is here on the walls. 
In a small chapel into which we entered, our guide called our 
attention to a remarkable echo, to produce which he chanted 
grandly. His fine voice was very rich and musical. 

We now went into the Baptistery, which was built in 1152. 
The pulpit is wonderfully beautiful; it was made by Nicolo 
Pisano. It stands on nine pillars, and has two marble desks for 
the gospel and epistle. The bas-reliefs of this exquisite piece 



CAMELS — GUIDE DETAINED. 241 

of statuary are as perfect as when they were completed. The 
cupola is lofty, — one hundred and two feet from the pavement. 
The fount is fourteen feet in diameter, and Murray says " was 
formerly used for baptism by immersion." Popery is fond of 
antiquity, but has gotten rid of some old things, and tried her 
hand upon many inventions. The Baptistery of Pisa is a noble 
edifice, and full of curious and beautiful things. 

We next rode over the river to see a little church called 
Santa Maria della Spina. It is a miniature Gothic structure 
in marble. Giovanni and Andrea Pisano were the artists to 
whom are ascribed several of the small statues which adorn 
this church. The church takes its name from a thorn of the 
Saviour's crown, brought from the Holy Land by a Pisan mer- 
chant, and given to this chapel in 1333. 

At the Dairy farm (belonging to the Grand Duke, who resides 
at Pisa in winter), about three miles out of the town, there are 
more than two hundred camels. They are the descendants of 
those brought home by the Crusaders. We wanted to go to see 
them, but had not sufficient time ; but, just as we were regretting 
it, I saw three of them bringing in immense loads of hay from 
the farm. They were fine-looking animals, and in better con- 
dition than those we see in menageries. 

Having taken dinner, we hastened to the cars, where we were 
to meet Mr. Yanderbilt and our friends Messrs. Powers and 
Hart, who were to visit the yacht, and see us sail from Leghorn. 
Our guide got off the train to speak to Mr. Yanderbilt, and was 
in the act of jumping on as the train was in motion. This was 
contrary to law, and he was snatched from the platform, and we 
went on without him ; but he telegraphed us, so that we heard 
of him on reaching the station at Leghorn, and he made his 
appearance soon after, having taken a gig and driven rapidly to 
the city. 

Our ladies immediately went about shopping in Leghorn, and 
I looked round upon the city. The Via la Grande is a fine busy 



242 LEGHORN ALARM OF AUTHORITIES. 

street, and on its pavements I felt that I was again in a place 
of trade and commerce ; for here were Turks, Moors, Armenians 
and Chinese, and the Dutch sailors were smoking as if as much 
at home as in Amsterdam. The population is rather more than 
sixty thousand, of which one-sixth are Jews. 

La Grande Piazza is a noble square, and here is the great 
church, into which I did not enter. The Jews' synagogue is 
supposed to be one of the finest in Europe. 

A Turkish bazaar which we went to was filled with Eastern 
articles of great beauty, and with plenty of French trifles ; but, 
as we were bound to Constantinople, we refused to be tempted. 

On our arrival at Leghorn, we were surprised and amused to 
learn that the fact of the yacht's anchorage in the roadstead had 
excited an alarm. Orders had been received to place guard- 
boats off. the North Star, and we were suspected of having arms 
on board, and it was thought that we had come to take or bring 
some " Liberals." It was not quite certain that Kossuth himself 
was not on board. Great excitement existed, and orders had 
been received, from further off than Florence, to keep a vigilant 
eye ou our movements. Our consul protested against these 
jealous fears of a gentleman's yacht, but in vain. Austrian 
imagination could not conceive of such a ship being the ocean 
home of a private American merchant. The yacht was thrown 
open to visitors, as in other ports ; and many hundreds came from 
Pisa, Florence and Lucca, as well as the good people of Leg- 
horn. 

Our friends. Powers, Hart and Root, all seemed glad to walk 
our decks, and felt proud that the flag of their country waved 
over them on such a vessel. Our guide, Sebastian, who lived 
here, determined to go with us to Rome, and so he left his family 
for another week. 

We were most kindly waited on by Mr. Henderson and his 
nephew, Mr. Miller, to the last moment, and letters to Rome 
and Naples politely presented us for our service. 



VISITORS. 243 

We had difficulty in getting rid of our visitors ; and, when 
the steam was up, and the wheels revolving, a gentleman on 
deck would run into " that great cabin " with his wife and 
daughters, " for one little minute." We hurried him up, and 
when he took his boat, and we steamed off, there were at least 
one hundred beats around us, all filled with visitors. 

We left the port amid the hearty cheers of the vast fleet of 
boats, many of which were gayly decorated with colors. 
20=^ 



CHAPTER XYIII. 

LEAVE LEGHOEN FOR CIVITA VECCHIA HARBOR — DIFFICULTIES ON OUR 

WAY DISAPPOINTMENT VOYAGE RESUMED SEE ST. PETER'S AFAR 

OFF ISCHIA PROCEDA BAIA, ETC. BRIDGE OF CALIGULA NA- 
PLES THE BAY RENEWED DISAPPOINTJMENT SWIMMERS LADY MOR- 
GAN VESUVIUS, ETC. CAPRI AND SUNSET STROMBOLI AND iETNA 

CAPE FARO, OR PELORUS SCYLLA EARTHQUAKE OF 1783 ~ MESSINA 

SCENERY OF TUB STP.AITS RHEGIUM MOUNT iETNA SYRACUSE 

CAPE PASSARO MALTA. 

From Leghorn, August 12, seven p. m., our course was 
directed for Palamjolu light, on the east coast of Elba, lying 
between that island and Piambino, thence south and east for the 
inside of the islands of Giglio and Gianuto ; then running still 
south-easterly for Civita Vecchia, where we anchored at seven 
A. M. the next day. 

The town is small and clean-looking, has strong forts built 
out on a little rocky islet, and an old monastery off at the left 
serves as a Lazaretto. The small harbor is well protected from 
the sea by a mole which has two entrances, — one at each end. 
Inside the town is a basin to receive vessels, which was built by 
Trajan. This is guarded by a strong chain every evening. We 
took a health-officer on board, and our captain and one of the 
party landed with the ship-papers. They soon returned, and 
stated that, owing to a defect in them, we could not be allowed 
to land until we had performed quarantine, or till the governor 
had communicated with Rome. The difficulty was that some 
names had been omitted on the bill of health at Leghorn, so 
that more persons appeared to be on board than the papers had 
specified. Mr. Vanderbilt was unwilling to suffer a detention, 



DISAPPOINTMENT — SEE ST. PETER'S. 245 

and it was supposed that, as we had a Charge d'Afiaires at 
Naples, our best course was to go direct thither, and trust to his 
influence to get us admitted to pratique, and then go from 
Naples to Rome. This prospect kept up our spirits under the 
cruel disappointment of being so near to the Eternal City, and yet 
debarred the privilege of visiting the old Mistress of the World. 
I really did pity the poor ladies' maids, who were Catholics, and 
our purser, Mr. Keefe, who also was a son of the church, and 
had letters from his clergy in New York, commending him to 
sundry of the faithful at Rome. One of the girls burst into a 
passionate flood of tears, and declared that all which had induced 
her to come on board was to go to Rome ; and now the vexation 
was too hard for flesh and blood to bear up under with any 
patience. After laying close into the town for two or three 
hours, we weighed anchor, and, standing out about three miles, 
took a line from Cape Linaro to Mount Circello. About three 
o'clock p. M., we were off the mouths of the Ostia, and, the day 
being beautifully clear, we had a capital view of St. Peter's 
dome and the small cupolas. All our party came on deck, and 
every glass was in demand. The distance from Rome was, I 
imagine, about twenty-five miles. So we saw Rome. I have 
learned to bear with disappointments, and have often seen the 
happy results which frequently appear from having our anxiously- 
desired paths hedged up. We had a fine night upon the sea, and 
a delicious air. 

From Mount Circello we ran across the Gulf of Gaieta, and 
made for Ischia. This island, with the small one of Procida, 
forms the north-western shore of the Bay of Naples. Passing 
Point Antonio, our course lay direct in for Naples. The night 
was very splendid, and I spent most of its hours on deck, to 
watch a coast of so much interest and scenery so romantic as 
now surrounded us. 

Ischia is a spot full of wonders, and was once as famous for 
its volcanic eruptions as Vesuvius is at present. The last great 



246 iscHiA. 

outbreak was in 1302, when the island was ahnost desolated. 
Here are lofty hills, rugged rocks, and barren mountains ; but 
there are many spots of beauty and fertility, where the vine and 
myrtle flourish, and all the tropical fruits abound. In the centre 
of Ischia rises Monte San Niccolo, a volcano which once ravaged 
the island ; and from the summit of it the view must be most 
lovely. A few hermits dwell on this elevated rock, and their 
cells are cut out of the stone and lava. 

The town of Ischia lies about two miles off from Proceda, and 
a strong castellated fortress, on a precipitous rock, is united to 
the island by a stone bridge of great length. The ancient name 
of Ischia was " Inarime," and its circumference is about sixteen 
miles. Proceda is about two and a half miles long ; the town 
occupies the shore, and there appeared to be a large number of 
fine buildings. Sailing on about two and a half miles from the 
eastern point of Proceda, we came to Point Misenum, the north- 
ern boundary of the bay. Here, on a high point, are two watch- 
towers and a large house. The scenery was very picturesque, 
and off to the northward there were several large steamers 
at anchor. We now passed Baia, and saw the ruins of ancient 
temples, and several apertures from the sea leading through 
the solid rocks. Near to the shore are the baths of the Cumaean 
Sibyl. All along the shore from Baia to Pozzuoli, which lies in 
a bay, the navigation near the shore is rendered dangerous from 
the ruins of houses and towers which are submerged, and which 
extend so far from the coast as to reach where seven and eight 
fathoms water are close to them. Near to the town are the pil- 
lared ruins of the mole and the splendid bridge of Caligula, 
which once reached over to Baia, two and a half miles in length. 
East, lies the small island of Nisita, which is the quarantine 
station. To the north of this is a mole, and midway from the 
island to the land is a steep rock From a point of land on 
which is a large white building, mil h like an American hotel, 



NAPLES. 247 

you get the first view of Naples. OflF this spot are vast ruins 
which lie in the sea, and the towers of other ages now require 
that the navigator should give them a wide berth. Having turned 
ihis point, we came to the Castle del OVo, upon a rock. Mergil- 
lena Point is lined with charming residences, and the shore on to 
Naples is one unbroken line of villas, palaces and imposing struc- 
tures. And now before us was the Castle of St. Elmo, and, hard 
by, the Convent of St. Martino ; there was the royal palace 
and the arsenal, all lying on the noble slope of the hill on which 
the city stands. As for church domes, I can't pretend to num- 
ber them, — they were everywhere. A mole is built out before 
the town, on which is erected a high brick tower, which serves 
as a light-house. 

This city stands where Paloepolis and Neapolis formerly stood. 
Neapolis was desolated by the great eruption of Vesuvius in 79, 
when the elder Pliny was destroyed. This glorious bay is, I should 
think, nearly twenty-five miles across from Ischia or Misenum to 
the opposite shore — perhaps more. As we anchored in the har- 
bor on a lovely Sabbath morning, everything seemed beautiful. 
Before us lay the city, like a crescent ; and off to the right the 
Villa Reale, well thronged with the Neapolitans ; and, turning 
round, we saw Vesuvius and the road leading off to Pompeii, and 
off to the left lay the grotto of Posilipo and the tomb of Virgil, 
while stretching far northward are hills of quiet beauty, with the 
lofty Apennines forming a back-ground. 

The health-oflScer who boarded us took our papers, and then 
went on shore to report; and when he returned brought us word 
that we could not land, owing to the condition of our bill of 
health. We found that our Charge d'Affaires had left for Amer- 
ica ; and, unwilling to stay for a long quarantine, we were once 
more doomed to be satisfied with the sight of our eyes. From 
the entire tone and bearing of the official, it was clear that the 
authorities did not much care to have Americans land there ; and 
we did not seem to have favor in their sight. While at anchor, 



248 NAPLES. 

boats came off in great numbers, with fruit and vegetables, and 
a vast number of men came swimming around us. One very 
good-looking man, with gold spectacles on, and carrying a silk 
•umbrella and smoking a cigar, swam from the shore to our yacht, 
— full one-third of a mile. He trod the water as though on a 
pavement, and was breast-high out of the waves. Mr. Vander- 
bilt now determined to try his hand with the English, and ordered 
our course to be directed for Malta. 

We have seen Naples, — ay, and seen it in great beauty, — 
and we have gazed for four or five hours upon the unrivalled 
shores of her glorious bay. To say that we longed to tread thu 
classic haunts with which our early studies had made us familiar 
is but what we shall gain credit for. 0, it was hard to see and 
turn away ; but then how much had we enjoyed since the dawn 
of this lovely day ! 

Well did Lady Morgan remark, in her work on Italy, which I 
confess I always read with interest : " In the environs of Naples 
there lies subject-matter for the antiquary, the painter, the nat- 
uralist and the philosopher. Its coasts are bathed by the sea of 
Homer ; its lakes and hills afford the topography of Virgil ; its 
vineyards bloom over caves where the Cnmaean Sibyl composed 
her oracles; and every cliff and headland is a history, the register 
of a crime, or the landmark of an adventure which has made 
the immortality of him who recorded or him who performed them. 
The whole of these shores look as if they were etched and 
painted, the drawing and coloring equally exquisite. The sea- 
pieces of Salvator Kosa are recalled at every step." — Vol. iii. 
pp. 155-6. 

The ladies had for several days determined upon the ascent of 
Vesuvius, and had most industriously prepared a general equip- 
ment of Bloomer apparel for the occasion. The clothing market 
fell, upon the news of the Neapolitan embargo, and great bargains 
might have been made at this moment of depression. 

We were fairly moving out past the mole, and every eye was 



CAPRI — AN ITALIAN SUNSET. 249 

on the city, then off to the sweet vilhige of Portici, built almost 
upon the ruins of Herculaneum, and then upon Vesuvius, mount- 
ing to the clouds and throwing off a slight vapor, and, beyond, 
the Apennines. Then there is Posilipo point, with its white 
mansions, and off before us Capri, of olden fame; and our course 
lay between this island and the cape on the main. This island 
takes its name from the goats that used to browse upon its cliffs ; 
it became part of the empire under Augustus Cassar, who made 
it a place of occasional retirement. It has always been regarded 
as a most healthy spot ; and here Tiberius spent the last days 
of his shameful career, amid the most cruel and abominable 
debaucheries. Every part of the island was studded with pal- 
aces, groves, gardens and grottos. On a lofty hill stands a 
ruined fortress ; and on the eastern point of the island is a vast 
ruin, which indicates the splendor which once reigned here. 
Medals, statues and other ancient relics, are often found here. 
The panoramic view from Capri, embracing the bay, its beautiful 
islands, the promontories north and south with their bold cliffs, 
and a bright blue sea, is altogether the most beautiful one that I 
have seen. As we came to the southern point, we were delighted 
to see the Scopuli spoken of by Virgil. An arch, as perfect as 
could be made by art, opens through these rugged rocks, and is 
said to be of enormous height, — I believe four hundred feet. 

The sun was shedding his evening rays upon Vesuvius, and 
throwing violet hues all over the mountain sides, as we took our 
latest look at the enchanting scenery. This was perhaps the 
most brilliant sunset that we ever witnessed. As the sun neared 
the horizon, it appeared like a ball of fire. The back-ground was 
of shaded crimson, deepening towards the sun ; above it there 
was a deep-blue cloud fringed with gold, and above this streaks 
of the most delicately-formed clouds, all crowned by a canopy of 
exquisite shading; then, diverging from the sun, came pillars 
of parti-colored light, gradually losing themselves in the clear 



250 STROMBOLI. 

sky, at about twenty-five degrees from the horizon. To-day we 
observed divine service at eight o'clock p. m. 

We now made a straight course fqr Stromboli, and discovered 
this light-house of the sea. At about two in the morning Cap- 
tain Eldridge kindly came below, and called us up to see the 
ever-burning faro of the seas. There it was, long miles off, 
flaming away just as brightly as it did when Carthaginian navies 
and Roman consuls ploughed the waves in their war-galleys. 
Here am I, looking upon an object which has fastened the gaze 
of millions ; and they wondered as I do, and then they perished 
in successive periods ; and here we are from the New World, gaz- 
ing on the same wondrous exhibition of terrific power, and are 
reminded that " one generation passeth away and another cometh, 
but the earth remaineth." How unchanged are its grand feat- 
ures, while the long generations of men who have lived have 
returned to the dust from whence they sprang ! Nature is as 
young and lovely as at her birth ; the stars shed as bright a radi- 
ance as when Job wrote about the Pleiades and Arcturus ; the 
meadows are as green as when Isaac walked out to meditate at 
the evening-tide, and the waves are as restless and rolling as 
when the Saviour calmed them down by the power of their Cre- 
ator ; but the nations that lived on these shores, the navies that 
sailed these seas — where are they ? They have grown old, — 
and they are not. 

Stromboli lies about thirty-three miles north of Sicily, and is 
nearly ten miles in circumference. It is a cone rising up to the 
height of twenty-five hundred feet above the sea. All round its 
base and sides are scattered hamlets, with a population of nearly 
fifteen hundred, who are on the edge of destruction, and live and 
act, ay, and sleep, on the surface of an eternal volcano. I do 
not quite understand how men can become reconciled to such 
appalling danger. This is the only volcano that is known to main- 
tain constant eruption. Its earliest mention is two hundred and 
ninety-two years before Christ, and it was burning in the days of 



LIPARI ISLANDS — iETNA. 251 

Augustus and Tiberius. Part of the island is very fertile ; the 
soil is black mould, and abounds in corn, cotton, grapes, figs and 
currants. In the island are many curious caves, and the Grotto 
del Bovi Marini is eighty-one feet long and thirty-five wide, and 
is full of crystallizations. This volcano is probably supported by 
oxygen, pyrites and sulphur, — there are no signs of bitumen. 

The Lipari Islands were known to the ancients as the -^olian 
Islands, and the poets feigned that uEolus here shut up the winds. 
These islands were vastly useful to Homer and Yirgil, in fur- 
nishing them with poetical materials. In Hiera Vulcan's forge 
was placed. Twentj^-seven years ago a damsel on the Hudson 
river asked me if I knew her brother-in-law. I replied Yes. 
" Well," said she, " don't you think he is an interesting man ? " 
To this I agreed. She then said that she thought him very 
interesting, adding, " 0, he has seen so much of the world! He 
has been all through the Mediterranean river ; he 's seen the 
burning mountains, and seen them make nuns, and seen them 
after they were made." I could not help remembering her ideas 
of the interesting, whilst I was enjoying the same privileges. 
Poor girl ! her romantic notions have long since given place to 
the every-day duties of a good Dutchman's wife. 

At the earliest dawn of day, we saw the peaks of the gigantic 
^tna far away, and soon discovered the smoky cloud which ever 
covers his hoary head. Every eye was fastened upon the increas- 
ing view which our rapid headway now afforded. But we were 
to see ^tna to greater advantage as the day advanced. What 
a remarkable thing it was to see these three great volcanoes of 
the world — Vesuvius, Stromboli and ^Etna — in the short space 
of less than nine hours. This could only happen to a voyager by 
steam. 

We now steered direct for the Faro Point, the famous prom- 
ontory of Pelorus, which took its name from the pilot of Hanni- 
bal, who was put to death on suspicion of bad faith to the Car- 
thaginians. Here we obtained fine views of the Calabrian coast, 
21 



252 SCYLLA AND CHARYBD13. 

which is grand in its rugged mountainous aspect. Just as we 
passed Faro we saw the famous Scjlla of classic story, which 
occasioned so much dread to the early navigators of this channel. 
It is a bold rock, and is perhaps one hundred and fifty feet high, 
and is the jutting-out cape of the western part of Calabria. 
Underneath it are caverns and pieces of rock around, and a 
strong western current from the Tyrrhene Sea sets in with vio- 
lence, which formerly produced frequent disasters to the Greek 
sailors who drifted on the dangerous cape. Much of its horror, 
however, may be ascribed to the poetic imagination of Homer 
and Ovid. 

Now the name of the cape is Sciglio, and a castle strongly for- 
tified forms a striking object upon the rock, as it is approached 
from the Pelorus. This town of Sciglio was the scene of an 
awful visitation in February 1783, when an earthquake nearly 
destroyed the place. The castle, churches, houses, &c., were 
extensively injured ; and the prince, with more than two thousand 
of his people, fled to the beach for safety, when the promontory 
of Campala, falling into the sea, caused the waters of the straits 
to rush over to the Pelorus, and as they receded it was with 
a tide of violence that carried off the unfortunate prince and 
every one of his people. The exact location of Charybdis is a 
matter of doubt. Some place it at the light opposite the harbor 
of Messina, others at the Faro Point. Captain Smyth says, 
*' Outside the tongue of land that forms the harbor of Messina 
lies the Galofaro, or celebrated vortex of Charybdis, which has 
with more reason than Scylla been clothed with terrors by the 
writers of antiquity." Our passage from Faro to Messina which 
is a distance of ten or twelve miles, was one of great intenst, for 
the landscape on the coast of Sicily was adorned with every 
beauty. On the shore were charming villages, noble convents 
and venerable churches, and the back-ground composed of lofty 
hills finely cut into ravines. The straits here are narrow, and 



MESSINA — RHEGIUM. 253 

resemble a noble river ; and the Calabrian shores present a glori- 
ous line of mountains. 

The approach to Messina is very fine. It gtands at the base 
of a picturesque mountain-range, belonging to the Neptunian 
chain. The city is large, and the cathedral and the noble towers 
of churches and convents rise from among the mass of buildings. 
Behind the city, and far up the momitain, are two very ancient- 
looking forts ; and midway between them is an old monastery, in 
which Richard Cceur de Lion resided in 1190, when on his cru- 
sade to the Holy City. The buildings, mostly white, are in 
beautiful contrast with the rich green foliage behind. The pop- 
ulation is about eighty thousand. We saw a large number of 
vessels lying at the Marina, which is a fine wharf in front of the 
city. The scenery reminded several of our party of , the banks 
of the Rhine ; and the passage of this piece of water is, I 
think, a sufficient reward for all the trouble of a voyage from 
America. 

Let me speak of the great pleasure with which I here read 
a little volume called *' Sicily, a Pilgrimage," by Henry T. Tuck- 
erman, and published by Gr. P. Putnam & Co. It is a book of 
beauties; and then its delineations are so graphic, and its 
descriptions of nature so truthful ! I think it is written in its 
author's happiest moments, and it has made many of my hours at 
sea pass away delightfully. Our course lay straight for Syra- 
cuse, and, passing by Messina, we soon came to Rhegium, a neat 
little place on the Calabrian coast. This is the town to which 
Paul came after his shipwreck, when on his way to Rome. 
Now we have a noble sight of ^tna. It is capped with snow, 
and we can well see the beauty of Pindar's description, when he 
calls it " the snow-clad pillar of the heavens, this nurse of end- 
less frosts." It lies before us, and will be in sight all day, and 
late into the evening. It is divided into three ranges, known as 
the cultivated, the forest, and the desert regions. The crater is 
said to be two miles in circumference. From Mount ^tna are 



254 SYRACUSE. 

derived ttose supplies of snow and ice which the towns of Italy 
and Sicily require. What a map must be laid out to the view 
of the man who stands upon Mount JEtna, and what a survey of 
cities, mountains, coasts, bays and capes ! It was a fine evening, 
on the 15th of August, when we made Syracuse, which stands 
upon a neck of land divided by a very small arm of the sea 
from the main island. The name of the island is Ortygia. It 
has two harbors, and one afibrds the best anchorage in the world, 
and is large enough to accommodate the navy of any country in 
Europe. This city once had a circumference of twenty miles, 
and a population of five hundred thousand ; now it has only 
about fifteen thousand. Here are the two columns of the temple 
of Jupiter Olympus, and they are now good landmarks for 
entering the harbor. In this port Lord Nelson supplied his 
fleet when he was in his celebrated pursuit of the French fleet, in 
1798. It is something to have seen this remarkable city, 
which was founded seven hundred and thirtj^-two years before 
Christ, by Archias of Corinth ; and we cannot look at it with- 
out remembering Dionysius, Thrasybulus, Agathocles and 
Archimedes. 

It was owing to the Mammertines, who lived in the southern 
part of Campania, and who served as mercenary troops under 
Agathocles, having rebelled afterwards against the Syracusans 
and appealed to Rome for protection, that an army of Romans, 
under Appius Claudius, came against the Carthaginians, and 
commenced the celebrated Punic wars, which at last destroyed 
Carthage, and annexed Sicily to the empire. This city has 
been battle-ground for Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Normans and 
Spaniards. It was off Syracuse that the great battle was fought 
between the Dutch and French fleets, in 1676, when Admiral 
Be Ruyter was killed. 

Our course was now directed for Malta, and we made- Cape 
Passaro at night, and thence arrived ofl" Malta on the morning 
of the sixteenth of August, before day-light. As we lay ofi", a * 



ARRIVAL AT VALETTA. 255 

copious shower of rain fell ; but we found that it did not extend to 
Malta, where no rain had been known for many months. At six 
o'clock we entered the port of Valetta, with our anticipations 
highly raised as to the gratification which awaited us in this 
celebrated island. 

21=^ 



CHAPTER XIX. 

HARBOR ARABS ALLOWED TO LAND VISIT FROM MR. CONSUL WIN- 

THROP DIVERS HISTORICAL NOTICE VALETTA THE RACES MAL- 
TESE BOATS INVITATION FROM THE GOVERNOR TO TAKE DINNER 

INVITATIONS FROM THE OFFICERS OF THE GARRISON VISIT TO SIR 

WILLIAM RKID — governor's PALACE MR. WINTIIROP'S RESIDENCE 

MSS. OF ITALIAN OPERAS CAPTAIN THOMAS GRAVES, R.N. CITTA 

VECCHLl SHOPS THE GOVERNOR AND SUITE VISIT THE YACHT ST. 

JOHN'S CHURCH WALLS OF THE CITADEL COUNTRY PEOPLE COS- 
TUME — FORTS ANGELO, RICASOLI, MANOEL, TIGNE AND ST. ELMO — 
TURKISH SIEGE IN 1565 DEPART FOR CONSTANTINOPLE. 

We found a large quantity of small shipping in the harbor, 
and one vessel thronged with Arabs, bound for a pilgrimage to 
Mecca. Some of them were the ugliest-iooking customers I ever 
saw. We were soon at anchor, and a health-officer came on 
board, and we were at once allowed to land, — but were full 
of fear when he took our papers up with tongs. As soon as we 
had taken breakfast, our consul, Mr. William Winthrop, came off 
to us and gave us a cordial greeting, and offered us his best ser- 
vices to render our visit agreeable. When we came on deck 
from breakfast, we found a number of boats around us, with bands 
of music of a rather primitive character, as regards the instru- 
ments ; but our attention was riveted to two or three boats in 
which were divers. They were fine-looking young men, and 
were ready, for a small silver coin, to go to the bottom, and they 
invariably brought it up in their mouths. These fellows were 
admirable specimens of muscle. I never saw such perfect devel- 
opment. One of them had a lad of fifteen who sat on his 



MALTA — ITS HISTORY. 257 

shoulders, and they dove down together. Often did they pass 
under our yacht, and come up at a distance on the other side. 

This same island is a most remarkable one, and, excepting the 
rock of Gribraltar, no other rock has greater claims to notice. I 
Bay rock, for it is nothing else. We have read of Malta in the 
entrancing pages of Virtot, and have fancied that we knew 
something about the forts and bastions ; but the thing itself is 
wondrously beyond description. I will not say more of its his- 
tory than that it has been in the possession of Phoenicians, 
Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, Goths, Normans, Ger- 
mans, the Knights of St. John and the French, and it has been 
held by the British since 1800. All of the appearances of 
nature are African ; nothing is European but the modes of life 
and the habits of civilization. The celebrity of Malta arises 
from its having been so long the great bulwark of Christendom 
against the blood-stained crescent banner of the Turk ; and from 
this island a signal check has been given to the corsairs of the 
African shores. Now it is the great stopping-station of travellers 
to the East. 

Malta, in 1516, fell into the hands of Charles Y. ; and when 
the Knights of St. John, who had been expelled from Rhodes, 
were in search of a new home, the emperor determined to cede 
the islands of Malta, Gozo, Comino, and Tripoli in Africa, to 
the order. The grand master at this time was Philip Villiers de 
L'Isle Adam, a Frenchman. The Knights took possession of 
their acquisitions October 1530. The castle of Angelo was the 
only fortified place, and efforts were at once made to strengthen 
it; and from that period down to the capture of Malta by the 
French, in 1798, the Knights devoted their attention to strength- 
ening the defences and increasing their number, till they made it 
one of the most renowned military stations in the world. Every 
one has read of the bloody sieges which were carried on by the 
Turks and corsairs, and so gallantly withstood by the Knights 
of the Cross. 



258 VALETTA — ST. ROCH'S DAY. 

" There, like an eagle in her rocky bower, 
The gallant order braved the Moslem power, 
"While Europe echoed with their martial fame, 
And rung with La Valette's undying fame." 

The town of Valetta was founded bj this illustrious Grand 
Master. It stands on a peninsula, crowned by Fort St. Elmo. 
The foundation was laid in March 1566, and in 1571 it became 
the seat of government. The city of Valetta is fully equal to 
any town in the Mediterranean, as respects the beauty and ele- 
gance of its streets and buildings. Its position between two 
arms of the sea, running very nearly parallel into the land, is 
commanding ; and on each side of it is a spacious and commo- 
dious natural harbor. The streets are wide, and intersect each 
other at right angles, and the dwellings are thrown into blocks. 
The material of building is a fine cream-colored stone, and the 
flat roofs furnish a good promenade. I greatly admired the 
architecture; nearly all the houses have projecting balconies, 
and the windows are adorned with deep cappings, afi"ording a very 
picturesque appearance to the streets. We landed at the wharf 
near our ship, and soon found that everything was novel. We 
passed a magnificent gate, and discovered that to get into the 
city we had to ascend the streets of steps immortalized by Lord 
Byron, who said, " Adieu, ye cursed streets of stairs," — and 
queer enough they are ; but, on gaining the level ground, we were 
all charmed with a city which strongly reminded us, in some of 
its streets, of the grand city of Bath. We had the good fortune 
to reach Malta on St. Roch's day, the 16th of August, on which 
day the annual races occur, and were advised by Mr. Winthrop 
to be present. They take place on the shore road, at the head 
of the quarantine harbor. Mr. Vanderbilt engaged two Mal- 
tese boats, and our party, in company with Mr. and Mrs. 
Winthrop, were to go by water. Our route lay through our 
harbor, round Fort St. Elmo, and up the quarantine harbor. 
Of all the boat excursions that I ever made, this was by very far 



! 



RACE — MALTESE BOAT. 261 

the most enchanting. We had as fine an evening as sunset ever 
lighted up with its parting beams. We sailed close under the 
rocky ramparts of Fort St. Elmo, and then entered the quaran- 
tine harbor, passing Fort Tigne and Fort Emanuel, and having 
the town of Valetta now upon our left. At the head of this 
harbor we found the race-road on its shore, and a vast multitude 
assembled. There were three prizes, — one for donkeys, one for 
fillies and one for horses. The animals were ridden by boys, and 
they used no saddles or bridles, but displayed great dexterity 
in riding. The race seemed to call out the mass of the popula- 
tion, and the shops were closed. The donkeys ran well under 
severe whipping, and the horses made fair speed. There was a 
strong police upon the ground, and many priests present. We 
remained in our boats. In consequence of the nature of the 
harbors, and the position of Valetta and the other towns and col- 
lections of buildings, a vast fleet of boats is necessary, and hun- 
dreds of men are employed in the transport of passengers from 
one side to the other. The Maltese boat is about twenty-five 
feet long ; the two ends are higher than the midships, the stern- 
piece running up about two feet above the gunwale at that point, 
and both ends are alike. They are something in general shape 
like our whale-boats, but broader and heavier. The after end is 
fitted up with seats, under an awning rigged on a stationary 
frame, with side-curtains, and a very comfortable accommodation 
is afi"orded. The boats are fancifully painted, and are kept in 
admirable order. We found the Maltese boatmen active and 
obliging, and quite intelligent. For fifty cents we could com- 
mand a boat and two men from sunrise until midnight. 

Our return home was diversified by a visit which we made to 
the new English steamship Valette, which had that day arrived 
from Marseilles, in forty-six hours. She is deemed the fastest 
steamer in the Oriental line, and this is the best time ever made 
from Marseilles. The ofiicer in charge was very polite, and con- 
ducted us over every part of the ship, which is fitted up in 



262 CIVILITIES — governor's palace. 

excellent taste; but the accommodations of the passengers 
seemed very limited, when compared with our own in the North 
Star. The sunset of this evening will long be remembered by 
us. The sky was cloudless, — not as deep a blue as we have at 
home ; but off to the west there was a broad magnificent ex- 
panse of golden efi"ulgence, and we can fully appreciate an 
Italian sunset. 

On our arrival at the yacht, we found an invitation from the 
Hon. Sir William Reid, the Governor of Malta, inviting Mr. 
Vanderbilt and the party to dinner at the palace ; but Mr. V. 
was obliged to decline this polite attention, in consequence of 
his arrangements only allowing us two days in Malta. Invita- 
tions also were kindly sent us from the officers of the 3rd regi- 
ment, — " the Buffs," — the Eoyal Engineers and Artillery, and 
the 68th Light Infantry, requesting us to dine with them on 
successive evenings. All these kind overtures we were reluc- 
tantly compelled to waive. The 3d regiment, known as " the 
Buffs," is the only regiment which has the privilege of passing 
through the city of London with their flags flying and drums 
beating. 

The next day Mr. Vanderbilt invited me to accompany him 
in a call upon the governor. The day was as hot as I ever 
experienced, and even in a carriage it was fearful. The palace 
is situated in a spacious square. It is a vast edifice, of plain 
architecture externally, and is three hundred feet square. It is 
surrounded on each side by the four principal streets, and on 
three sides has a row of open or covered balconies. The palace 
has two grand entrances in front, opening into a court, and one 
entrance on the other sides of the building. The interior of the 
mansion has been the care of the different Grand Masters of the 
order. It consists of two stories, each containing a series of 
apartments which traverse the entire quadrangle. In the court 
is a portico, covering a fountain with a statue of Neptune. The 
upper story consists of numerous and elegant apartments, and 



SIR WILLIAM REID. . 268 

very spacious saloons, richly adorned with paintings in com- 
memoration of the battles of the Knights. Some of these are 
excellent productions. Here are many of the works of the first 
masters. In the waiting-room at the end of the hall, as we 
ascended the grand staircase, we noticed St. George and the 
Dragon, St. Peter, ^neas, &c. In the corridor leading to the 
armory, we entered a room hung with tapestry representing 
scenes in India and Africa. These tapestries were brought 
from the Gobelins one hundred and fifty years ago, but still look 
fresh and beautiful. The armory is very splendid ; and here 
you see the warlike equipments belonging to the brave old 
Knights of Malta. Here was a suit of black armor seven feet 
three and a half inches high. Among other Turkish trophies, is 
the sword of the renowned pirate and Algerine, Admiral Dragut. 
The best painting that I ever saw of Louis XVI. is in this pal- 
ace. It was sent to the Grand Master by the unfortunate mon- 
arch. We found his Excellency in a large room, surrounded by 
his papers, and evidently in his usually occupied room. Sir 
William Reid is a fine-looking, elderly gentleman, of very quiet 
manners. He received Mr. Vanderbilt with great cordiality, 
and expressed his happiness that the yacht had visited the port. 
The governor made particular inquiries after his friend Mr. W. 
C. Redfield. Sir William is an officer in her majesty's army, 
and was once Governor of Bermuda ; but he is well known as 
the author of various publications on the theory of storms. He 
told us that his attention was first directed to this subject by Mr. 
Redfield, of New York. Governor Reid took an active part in 
the management of the London Exhibition, in 1851, and prob- 
ably owes his present exalted position to the eminent services 
which he rendered upon that occasion. Captain Hoare, the son- 
in-law of the governor, was present at our interview. He is a 
gentleman of much intelligence, has been in the United States, 
and had crossed from San Juan in one of Mr. Yanderbilt's 
steamships, in company with Mr. Jacob Vanderbilt, after whom 



264 CONSUL WINTHROP — HIS RESIDENCE. 

he inquired with friendly interest. The governor made many 
inquiries in relation to American steamships, and their power of 
speed. As we were taking our leave, Sir William informed Mr. 
Vanderbilt that he should pay a visit to the yacht the next day 
at twelve o'clock. Master George Vanderbilt was with us at 
this call, and it happened that when he and I were at the Crys- 
tal Palace, in London, we both met Sir "William Eeid, who kindly 
introduced us to Mr. Nesmith, who had charge of the machinery, 
and from him we had much information as to the steam-power 
of the exhibition. The lad was remembered by the governor in 
connection with some inquiries that he made of me, and which 
were heard by him, and led him to place us under Mr. Nesmith's 
care. 

I went from the palace to take a family dinner with the con- 
sul. Mr. Winthrop has a fine residence in a house once occupied 
by the Prior of the Knights of St. John; it is close by St. 
John's Church. I can hardly imagine a more pleasant home 
than he possesses. His rooms are very spacious, and extend 
through a long suite of apartments, on one side of which is a 
gallery, lined with exquisite shrubs and flowers; and on the 
other sides the roams open upon a balcony, which overhangs 
a fine street. The ceilings are many of them beautifully fres- 
coed, and the staircase is of massive and elegant stone-work, 
richly carved. Mr. Winthrop has been consul here for nineteen 
years, and finds the climate adapted to his health, which has 
been feeble ; but he now appears likely to live a long life, which 
all who know him will, I am sure, desire most earnestly. Our 
consul is a hard student ; he has devoted himself to historical 
pursuits with great ardor. He has contributed a series of 
admirable papers to the Southern Messenger upon the history 
of the Knights of Malta, and is one of the principal contributors 
to the admirable " Notes and Queries," published in London. 
In his library I was much interested with an extraordinary col- 
lection of two hundred and twenty-four MS. volumes of Italian 



CAPTAIN GRAVES — SINGULAR COACH. 265 

oj^eras, from 1596 to 1824, with the names of the persons to 
whom they were dedicated, and the places in which they were 
performed. They contain upwards of seventy thousand pages, 
and are most admirably written. Mr. W. has received applica- 
tions to part with them to go to England, but he would prefer 
selling them to an American library ; and he would readily find 
a purchaser, I think, if they were seen by some of our collectors 

At Mr. Winthrop's I had the pleasure to meet with Captain 
Graves, of the royal navy. This gentleman has obtained much 
celebrity by the admirable charts which he has constructed for 
the coasts of the Levant. These he presented to Captain 
Eldridge; they were of great service to us. Since we left 
Malta, I am happy to notice that Captain Graves has been 
appointed Superintendent of the Ports in Malta ; he is also 
President of the Literary Society of Malta. I visited Captain 
Graves, and saw his noble library ; and he most kindly favored 
me with the loan of several exceedingly rare and valuable books, 
which I was to leave at Gibraltar on my return to that port. 

After dinner, our party took carriages, and we rode out to 
Citta Vecchia, sometimes called La Notabile. The hack-coach 
here in use is new to us. It is a close coach-body, of antique 
style, capable of holding four persons, but with no box for the 
driver ; and rests on two leather stretchers, which run from the 
axle to the cross-bar behind the horse. It has but two wheels, 
the ends of the long shafts being mortised into the axle, and 
thence running straight to tugs formed in a strap traversing a 
huge saddle, at which point they are made fast. The entire 
weight of the carriage is thus thrown on the shafts. The collar 
and breeching are very rude affairs, and the driver runs bare- 
footed at the head of the horse, governirg him by a long rope, 
the spare length of which he carries in a coil in his hand. 

This old city is on the highest ground of the island, and nearly 
at its centre. This is the head-quarters of the Catholic Church, 
and the bishop is also titular Archbishop of Rhodes. He has a 
22 



266 CITTA VECCniA — BEGGARS. 

palace here, and one in Valetta. This city, though small, is 
surrounded with walls and bastions, and is regarded as a strongly- 
fortified place. Its ancient name was that of the island, Melita, 
and is so spoken of by Ptolemy in his geography. It was once 
a stately city. The inauguration of the Grand Masters took 
place here. 

Our ride was through a country of entire rock. The soil has 
been brought here from Sicily, and is mixed up with the friable 
portions of the rocky native soil. We found some few good 
houses on the road, but the poor Maltese live in worse huts than 
the Irish cabins ; and they who labor in the city walk in and 
out, eight, ten and fourteen miles a day, in this burning sun. 
Assiduous labor has rendered even this rocky island very fertile, 
and the products are strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, 
peaches, nectarines, apricots, oranges, lemons, melons, medlars, 
plums, pears, apples and prickly pears. The great object of curi- 
osity at the old city is the cathedral, the site of which is said 
to be the spot where Publius resided, who was governor when 
Paul was shipwrecked here. 

The church is a fine edifice, in the rich Corinthian order, and 
it has a very splendid altar of marble. Some of the party 
visited the catacombs of St. Paul, and explored these ancient 
sepulchres. I went with a procession into a church, to witness a 
mass on behalf of some person who had just departed this life. 
The priests were returning with the host, and a number of boys 
carrying lamps and tapers, headed the array. Here we found 
more beggars than at any other place, and they were wretched- 
looking ones, too. Children without eyes, or perhaps some with 
only one, were held up by parents for alms. Eye-diseases are 
awfully prevalent, owing to the white dusty clouds constantly 
flying from the rocky ground. 

On our return, we passed the governor's country-house, which 
has a very fine garden. It is at St. Antonio. Here are ponds 
and fountains. 



DISTINGUISHED VISITORS — ST. JOHN'S CHURCH. 26T 

We found the shops well supplied, and the goods quite reason- 
able. In a bookseller's shop I was pleased to see a fair repre- 
sentation of American books. Harpers' publications were here 
in considerable numbers. Several of us took a dinner on shore 
at Baker's Hotel, and found it an excellent one ; and Mr. Baker 
was exceedingly kind, and rendered me very valuable services 
by procuring for me some things which I had in vain attempted 
to obtain. The hotel is thoroughly English, and the attention 
all that can be wished. 

On the morning of the 18th, we had a large number of visit- 
ors from the city ; and at twelve o'clock precisely we observed 
the governor's boats on their way. His excellency came on 
board under a royal salute from the North Star of twenty-one 
guns. He was accompanied by his sister-in-law, Lady Bolland, 
the widow of the distinguished English Judge Bolland, Rear 
Admiral Houston Stuart, General Ferguson, and some thirty 
British officers of the garrison, and a number of ladies. Gen- 
eral Ferguson is a noble-looking man ; he is one of the most 
distinguished officers in the English army, and holds his present 
honorable position in acknowledgment of his long services and 
great bravery in many hard-fought battles. He is regarded as 
one of the noblest ornaments of the profession. Our visitors 
appeared to be very much pleased and surjDrised with the yacht, 
which they examined very thoroughly. Admiral Stuart and 
several of the officers complimented Captain Eldridge upon the 
admirable manner in which the salute was fired, and said it 
would have been creditable to a man-of-war. 

As soon as our friends left us, I went on shore to visit St. 
John's Church, which is the great church of Malta. It was 
built in 1576, and has been adorned at large expense by all the 
Grand Masters of the order. The facade of the church is any- 
thing but attractive. The interior is fine, and the choir has an 
admirable sculpture in marble, representing the Baptism of 
Christ by John, by Bernini. The roof is adorned with paint- 



268 VALETTA — MONUMENTS. 

ings, in illustration of the life of John. The pavement is richly 
adorned with sepulchral slabs in mosaic, with colored marbles, 
jasper, agate and precious stones. These cover the graves of 
the knights who died here, and there are many declarations on 
these slabs of the virtues of the departed heroes. The grand 
altar is very superb, and chairs of velvet are placed for the 
bishop and governor. The chapels which used to belong to the 
chapters or languages of the order run parallel with the nave, 
and constitute the aisles. They are very richly embellished, and 
the roofs are all dome-shaped. From one of these chapels is a 
staircase leading to the crypt, in which are the tombs of the 
Grand Masters. Here is interred L'Isle Adam, the first Grand 
Master in Malta. Of this great man I was so fortunate as to 
procure a grand portrait, which is as old as his time, but in per- 
fect condition, and a painting of much merit. The Decollation 
of St. John, by Michael Angelo Caravaggio, is a noble picture ; 
and so is the Flagellation, by Sebastiano del Piombo. 

The Catholic clergy of this island are thought to be more than 
one thousand. An English church, known as St. Paul's, was 
built here in 1839, by the Dowager Queen Adelaide. It is a 
plain and neat edifice, and well adapted for divine service. 

In this place we found some excellent statuary cut out of the 
soft yellow stone used in the buildings here. The workmanship 
was very good, and the men have taste enough to make use of 
the classical models of antiquity. We obtained some fine vases 
and figures, which are lifelike. 

More than once did I wander over the walls of Valetta which 
overlook the ditch, and where are monuments to the memory of 
former governors of this fortress and other persons of note. The 
tomb of the Marquis of Hastings is under the Cavalier St. John, 
and in another place the sepulchre of Governor Sir Thomas 
Maitland. The view is as fine as seems possible; the walls 
overlook the great harbor and its lateral creeks or openings, 
which accommodate so many vessels, the three towns opposite, 



COSTUMES. 



269 



and the castles which defend them ; and there, too, you have a 
distinct view of the Floriana suburbs. This is a place of great 
resort, and the prospect of the sea in the evening is very charm- 
ing. The native dress is much worn by the lower classes ; a 
long cap, hanging down behind, of various colors, I saw on many 
men ; and this is used as a pouch for small articles. Many of 
the Maltese wear a silk or cotton sash to hold up the pantaioons. 
The white clothes of the poorest were beautifully clean. Many 
of the country people looked quite jauntily ; the costume "Is seen 
in the illustration. 




I greatly admired the dress of the Maltese ladies. It consists 
of a black silk petticoat, which is worn over a body of some 
other silk or print, and this is called a half-onnella. The upper 
part is called the onnella, and is also of black silk, drawn up 
into gathers at the centre of one of the outer seams. In the 
E^am of one of the remaining divisions is enclosed a thin piece 
22* 



270 COSTUMES — CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. 

of whalebone, which is drawn over the head, and forms an ele- 
gant arch, leaving the face and neck perfectly open. The left 
arm is, covered with part of this habit, and the right is used for 
keeping down the angle of the other. The whole is very neat, 
and the Maltese ladies are not deficient in grace to show their 
dress off to advantage. I hope this account may be intelligible ; 
if it be not, I may be pardoned when I say that it is the descrip- 
tion given in one of their publications at Valetta. The country- 
women usually wear striped native cotton; the head-dress is a 
tsholkana^ instead of an onnella. The doublett is in shape the 
same as the half-onnella ; but on gala occasions they put on the 
gezuira, which is a kind of petticoat of blue cotton striped with 
white, drawn up in thick creases round the waist, and open on 
the right side, where it is tied with bows of ribbon. The poor 
women of the island rarely wear shoes, but have one pair which 
they kee|) for special occasions. The omiella, no doubt, took its 
origin from the oriental veil. I have noticed vast numbers of 
the laboring men lying down in the streets and on the docks, 
and I am told that they often sleep all night exposed to the air. 
I will not close this notice of our visit without a slight account 
of the forts, which are so marked a feature of the place. 

CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. 

In 870 the Arabs erected here a small fort to guard their 
piratical craft which anchored in the great harbor. The Knights 
of St. John, on their settlement, made it their chief bulwark, 
and added greatly to its strength. In 1686 it was very much 
enlarged, under the Grand Master Gregorio Carafa, and it took 
its present appearance in 1690. It presents a most formidable 
appearance, and consists of four batteries, one above another, in 
the style of an amphitheatre, and mounts fifty-one guns, and 
others upon the cavalier and adjacent walls. This fortress is 
garrisoned by British artillery. 



FORTS. 271 

FORT RICASOLI. 

This was founded ii 1670, by tlie Cavalier Kicasoli, at his 
personal expense ; and the Grand Master Cottoner ordered it to 
be called by his name, as a mark of his gratitude for such generos- 
ity. This fort is built on a point of an angular projection, and 
correspon(fl with St. Elmo, on the opposite shore, in front of 
Valetta ; and thus the two forts command the entrance to the 
great harbor. From the sea, if well garrisoned, the fort is 
quite impregnable ; and from the land it could only be reached 
by surmounting a long succession of very strongly-defended 
forts, which would threaten destruction to any assailants. 

FORT MANGEL. 

This was erected in 1726, and is now used as a Lazaretto. 

FORT TIGNE. 

This fortress was built in 1796, and named in honor of the 
Cavalier Tigne, who planned the barracks of St. Elmo. This 
fortress, in connection with St. Elmo, defends the entrance to the 
quarantine harbor; it is regarded as a very strong work, and 
has extensive mines cut in the solid rock. It is garrisoned by 
the artillery and a company of the line. It answers to Fort 
Ricasoli, and St. Elmo is the great central point between the 
two harbors ; the wings of defence are Ricasoli and Tigne. 

THE CASTLE OF ST. ELMO. 

This, I have already mentioned, stands upon the extremity of 
the peninsula which separates the two chief harbors; and the 
great harbor on the left has three lateral inlets, which are 
defended by Fort St. Angelo, and on the shores of which stand 
the towns of Burmola, Senglea and Vittoriosa, — all nearly^ 
opposite to Valetta. The Fort St. Elmo was built by the Vice- 
roy of Sicily, against the Turks, in 1488. On obtaining posses- 



272 SIEGE OF ST. ELMO BY TURKS. 

sion of the island, the knights saw the vast importance of this 
point ; and when they commenced the city of Valetta, they made 
St. Ehno the citadel. In 1565, the Sultan Solyman, angry at 
the seizure of a Turkish galleon belonging to one of his favorites, 
threatened the destruction of the order ; and, for this end, sent a 
powerful fleet under Dragut, the admiral of the Alg^'ine navy. 
This armament appeared off the island in May. The attack was 
made on St. Elmo, usually defended by sixty men under the 
command of a knight ; but on this occasion sixty knights and a 
company of Spanish infantry were sent in as a reinforcement. 
The Turkish artillery battered the ■ fort from sea and land. A 
breach was effected, and a bloody contest followed; and the 
result would have been the destruction of the garrison, had not 
supplies arrived in the night from the other side of the great 
harbor, and the wounded were carried back in the boats. The 
ravelin was stormed by the Turks, and fell into their hands after 
a loss on their part of three thousand men. But the courage of 
the knights was unabated. At last, in their exigency, they sent 
a knight to the Grand Master, to request permission to evacuate 
the fort. La Yalette, knowing the vast importance of the place, 
would not permit it to be abandoned, but managed to excite 
the emulation of the garrison, who were now determined to die 
rather than surrender their charge. On the 16th June, a 
general assault was made by the Turks, and the walls were 
laid level with the rock on which they were built. The enemy 
entered the ditch, and a heavy fire was kept up on both sides. 
The assault lasted for six hours, when the Turks retreated with 
a loss of three thousand men. Seventeen knights perished in 
the breach, and three hundred soldiers were killed and wounded. 
A volunteer reinforcement from the other side, of one hun- 
dred and fifty men, came over ; but it was stated that this was 
jbhe last aid that could be afforded. The 22d of June the 
assault was renewed at break of day; and, after defending 
the place for four hours only sixty men remained to man the 



MAGAZINES. 273 

breach. At eleven o'clock the janissaries took possession of 
the Cavalier, and Dragut entered the fort. Not one knight sur- 
vived, and every soldier perished in the breach. The Turks lost 
eight thousand men, and the order had to mourn the deaths of 
three hundred knights and about one thousand three hundred 
soldiers. The bloody conqueror, anxious to revenge the death 
of his men, ordered a search for the dead knights, ripped out 
their hearts, cut their breasts in the shape of a cross, and set 
them afloat on boards, for the tide to waft them to St. Angelo, 
and the head-quarters of the Grand Master, at Borgo. La 
Yalette, by way of reprisal, put his prisoners to death, and, 
loading his cannon with their heads, fired them into the enemy's 
ranks. The next year after the defoiit of the Turkish invasion, 
the first stone of Valetta was laid, and the Castle of St. Elmo 
built in great strength. In 1687 it was almost entirely rebuilt, 
and early in the seventeenth century the bastions of hard lime- 
stone were added, and supplied with artillery. 

On the angles of the ramparts which command the entrance 
into both harbors are seen two turrets, originally intended for 
the purpose of watching all vessels entering and departing the 
harbor. A treble row of magazines, nineteen on each story, now 
forms a barrack for two regiments of the line, and a safe asylum 
for females in case of a siege. These magazines are bomb-proof, 
and are within the walls under the western wing of the fort. 

I must not forget to name the vast chambers which are dug 
in the rocks to preserve grain in case of siege. These caves are 
hermetically sealed, and will preserve grain for one hundred 
years. A vast quantity of wheat is brought here from the Black 
Sea, and consequently there are in this port many Turkish and 
Greek vessels, the sailors in which do not appear very ship-shape, 
or, as Captain Eldridge says, " don't look cut the right way of 
the leather." Valetta is a free port, but wheat and oil pay a 
small duty. Rents are quite reasonable in Valetta, and good 
houses can be had from one hundred dollars per annum upwards. 



274 LEAVE MALTA. 

Having purchased laces, mittens, corals, vases, statues, pic- 
tures, &c., we prepared to depart. We did not leave Malta 
without regret ; for we had formed very pleasant acquaintances. 
Mr. and Mrs. Winthrop and Captain Grraves were very kind and 
friendly, and placed us all under lasting obligations. They 
dined with us while the anchor was being weighed, and at seven 
p. M. on 18th August we left Malta for Constantinople. 



CHAPTER XX. 

MOREA CERIGO CAPE COLONXA TENEDOS PLAINS OF TROY ENGLISH 

AND FRENCH FLEETS SIGiEUM HELLESPONT DARDANELLES CAS- 
TLES OP EUROPE AND ASIA PROPONTIS, OR SEA OF MARMORA FIRST 

VIEW OF STAMBOUL SCENERY ANCHORAGE OFF PERA MR. BROWN 

AND OTHER VISITORS VISIT TO PERA, GALATA AND TOPHANA SUL- 
TAN'S NEW PALACE GULLS — SULTAN'S FIRMAN SERAGLIO ATMEI- 

DAN, OR HIPPODROME SUBLIME PORTE LIBRARY ANCIENT ARMOR 

MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA HISTORICAL NOTICE, ETC. 

On a fine evening we steamed out of the famous port of Malta, 
and lay a direct course for Cape Matapan, the southern point 
of the Morea. During the night the wind freshened, and at 
about twelve o'clock we passed a man-of-war, which we supposed 
to be a United States ship, as one was expected to arrive in 
Malta. 

The nineteenth was not quite so pleasant a day ; it was close 
and muggy, and no bad imitation of an American dog-day. It 
was in charming weather that we made our first view of the 
Morea, and went close by Matapan, which runs out to a lofty, 
precipitous jut, and at its base is a cavern, which looks as 
if it bore marks of volcanic action. My copy of Lord Byron was 
now in demand. "VYe next crossed the mouth of the Gulf of 
Kolokythia, and obtained a good sight of Mount Taygetus, 
which takes its name from Taygete, the daughter of Atlas. Its 
highest point is about three miles south of Sparta. We were 
now making the north point of Cerigo, the chief of the Ionian 
Islands. The coast was precipitous and barren, but its valleys 
are exceedingly fertile, and produce wine, oil, flax, cotton and 
silk, and corn enough is raised to support the inhabitants. The 



276 TENEDOS — PLAINS OF TROY. 

population is about nine thousand. We saw a vast number of 
fishing-boats engaged in their business, which seemed very prcf.t- 
able, as they caught a great many. These islands are now under 
British protection, and enjoy a greater degree of prosperity and 
more commerce than formerly. 

We passed Cape Spati and its chapel, and made Cape St. 
Angelo and its rocky shore, and then bore away north-easterly 
for the Straits of Doro, passing between Zea and Macronisi 
Islands, and leaving St. George to our left. OS Cape Colonna 
we caught a glimpse of the ruins of the Temple of Minerva, of 
which several columns remain ; and they stand on an elevation 
of two hundred feet above the sea, and are visible midway in the 
straits. The passage between Macronisi and Zea is about eight 
miles, giving us a fair prospect of both shores. The port of Zea is 
an excellent one, and we passed by it, as it stands on the north- 
west part of the island ; on some charts it is put down as the 
Port, in others as St. Nicholas. The wind was ahead, and the 
sea rough for many hours. 

Passing the Straits of Doro, we bore away for Tenedos, and 
on the morning of the twenty-second we came up with the Island 
of Mytelene, at early light. This was the Lesbos of classic 
story, and here Sappho and Alcoeus were born. We were off 
Tenedos at seven o'clock. This island is six miles in length, but 
only about two and a half in width, and is a rocky spot. The 
town is small and mean looking. I noticed the first mosque that 
I have seen. A fortress with a large number of guns mounted, 
and a number of soldiers on the shore, looked as if it were 
regarded of some importance. The Turkish flag was waving from 
the walls. It was to this island that the treacherous Greeks 
withdrew their fleet, to induce the Trojans to imagine that they 
had abandoned the siege, and then sent the wooden horse to 
Troy. Almost directly opposite to Tenedos are the Plains of 
Troy. The exact position of the renowned city is a matter of 
dispute. On the coast are many hillocks, which tradition 



FLEETS IN BESHIKA BAY. 277 

declares to be the tombs of Achilles, Hector, Ajax, Peneleus and 
other magnates of the Homeric song. Here, too, are ruins of 
vast magnitude. Off at a little distance west lie Lemnos and 
Imbros, the hiding spots of the Greeks, and the former famous 
for the ancient assertion of the rights of the ladies, who took a 
short cut to their object by murdering all the men. But now, at 
a little past seven o'clock, we were interested by observing, just 
ahead, a vast fleet of ships of the line ; this was the combined 
fleet of England and France lying at anchor in Beshika Bay. 
Captain Eldridge, to give us a fair view, shaped his course 
directly through the fleets, and we had a capital opportunity to 
see these noble ships. The French ships were very fine, and 
looked in good order. The combined force consisted of about 
twenty-five ships of the line, and perhaps twelve or fifteen 
steamers. As we passed we dipped our colors, and the English 
returned the compliment; but the Frenchmen were not so polite. 
Besides these large ships, there were probably twenty-five or 
thirty small vessels and tenders engaged in purveying for the 
armament. 

Cape Janissary is the site of the ancient Sigaeum, and is the 
south headland of the entrance to the Hellespont. Here the 
Scamander pours its waters into the sea. The scenery on the 
Asiatic side immediately improved on doubling this point, and 
the shore looked more fertile than on the European. The Helles- 
pont here is about three miles wide, and gradually diminishes its 
breadth. We passed about midway, and saw both the castles 
distinctly. On the European shore there is an old battery out- 
side the Hellespont, and a new castle on the promontory, at the 
entrance, of seventy cannon and four mortars. On the Asiatic 
side stands an old castle, with a battery of eighty guns and four 
mortars. All our party spent the forenoon on deck, and we 
made advantageous use of the volumes of Schroeder, Stephens, 
and the ancient but invaluable folio volume by Sandys, who, 
though he travelled and wrote two hundred years ago, is still 
23 



278 THE DARDANELLES. 

unsurpassed as a local guide in tlie East. I left my own copy 
at home by a mistake; in London I could not get the old book 
for less than four guineas ; and when at Malta, my friend Cap- 
tain Graves, hearing me lament the loss of it on this voyage, 
kindly allowed me to take his copy. Several fine locations now 
appeared on the European side, the country-houses looked quite 
cosey, and the cypress was abundant. Some of the hill-tops 
were very lofty, and we observed tents on their summits. A 
large number of vessels lay at anchor waiting for a fair wind, and, 
by comparing their height with the elevation of the land, we con- 
cluded that it must be at least two thousand feet. Six or seven 
miles brought us to the famous Dardanelles. Here, on the Asiatic 
side, is the fortress or castle called Sultani Kalessi, with one 
hundred and twenty guns, many of which discharge immense 
stone balls. Kilid Bahr is the name of the castle on the Euro- 
pean side, and it mounts sixty-four guns. We now approach to 
Sestos and Abydos, and the spot which has been immortalized by 
Leander, Lord Byron and Dr. Holmes' oyster-man. The town 
of Galipoli, at the promontory which makes the entrance to the 
Sea of Marmora (the ancient Propontis), has an old castle, with 
a mole and lighthouse. The country directly round it is very 
pretty and English-looking. We directed our course for the 
northern point of the Isle of Marmora, and during the night had 
more motion than we had expected in this inland sea ; and here 
we shipped our first sea on the voyage. At break of day we 
were getting near to Constantinople, — and I am sure that the 
impressions of this day will never be erased from my memory. 
Like Mr. Schroeder, we made this port at early day, and I shall 
appropriate his description of the scenery, which is, in my opin 
ion, a most felicitous attempt at the creation of a verbal pano- 
rama. 

" The sun was peeping, with half-closed eyelids, through the 
woods on the heights beyond Scutari ; the sea lay in breath 
less quiet, and the brilliant city glittered with its minarets, its 



FIRST VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 279 

mighty domes, its towers and the white sheen of palaces. The 
Seraglio Point jutted out, a mass of cupola and a forest of rich 
foliage ; and its walls skirted round the margin of the point, a 
compact and massive front of elegance. The city rose loftily 
behind this garden fore-ground. Scutari sat like a rival, oppo- 
site ; Pera on a cape just beyond the Seraglio ; and the Bos- 
phorus opened in a vast perspective of palaces, on either shore, 
far into the distance, the banks rising with rich foliage, and 
every height crowned with some noble kiosk. The gilded tops 
of a hundred minarets caught the sun-rays in fire, and the domes 
seemed to hover over all lesser things. We neared rapidly, in 
the still morning, passing on our left the famous ' Seven Tow- 
ers,' — a fortress famed in the annals of tyranny and cruelty, — 
and wound along the whole elegant curve of the Seraglio Point, 
which is inconceivably beautiful from the water ; a grand com- 
position of foliage, and every Turkish architectural fancy. We 
entered the Bosphorus,' and looked still further into its beautiful 
distance. On the right, in Asia, was Scutari, only a lesser Con- 
stantinople ; and the distance across to the Seraglio Point, in 
Europe, cannot, I think, exceed a mile and a half. Pera was 
on the other side of the Golden Horn, which opened from the 
Seraglio Point on the left ; and before I could well recover from 
my bewildered feelings we had advanced into the Golden Horn." 
It was a matter of some difficulty to find suitable anchorage 
for our yacht, as all around us were large vessels and steamers 
at anchor, and the currents set in at this point with tremendous 
force. We at last selected a spot in front of Pera and Galata, 
and perhaps three hundred yards from the shore. Near us lay 
a ship which hoisted the English yacht flag. She was about four 
hundred tons, and belonged to Mr. Leyland, of London. Close 
by, also, was the British war-steamship, the Firebrand, which 
had just arrived with despatches to the minister. A lovelier 
position than we lay in could not be found. The hills of Con- 
stantinople were o£f to our left, Pera* and its heights before us, 



280 TOPHANA AND GALATA. 

and the Golden Horn dividing these cities, and over the Horn a 
bridge which unites the two places. Scutari, with its crowded 
houses and charming back-ground, lay off to the south; and on all 
sides were ships of various sizes, and hundreds of the graceful 
caiques shooting in every direction, and impelled by noble- 
looking Turks. 

I think we hardly felt like leaving the deck to take our break- 
fast, and every moment was a loss that deprived us of the oppor- 
tunity to gaze upon the wondrous shores on either hand. 

An elegant caique soon came alongside, and we had the hap- 
piness to meet with Mr. Brown, the dragoman, or secretary of our 
embassy, who very politely offered us his own and Mrs. BroMm's 
friendly services while we remained in port ; and he chalked out 
a plan of operations by which we might make the most of our 
time. Visitors in vast numbers now dropped in, and among the 
many, I remember Avith pleasure the call which we received from 
a young officer of the Firebrand steam-frigate, Mr. J. B. But- 
ler. Mr. and Mrs. Leyland, and their son and daughter, tutor 
and governesses, came from the yacht Sylphide, and we were 
much gratified with the party. 

After dinner we landed in Pera, which, with Galata and To- 
phana, arc the suburbs, in which all foreigners reside ; and they 
answer to Constantinople as Brooklyn does to New York, but are 
united to Constantinople by a bridge resting upon boats, which 
spans the Golden Horn. Tophana and Galata are on the water's 
edge, and Pera covers the hill-top. In Galata is the naval arse- 
nal, and the military affairs are chiefly carried on in Tophana. 
The impressions produced upon a foreigner at landing are very 
strange. He has been gazing upon a capital of wonderful splen- 
dor and magnificence, and he finds himself at once in scenes of 
dirt and filth which cannot be surpassed in the narrowest lanes 
of New York, or in the worst streets leading to the piers of the 
North river. Streets we did not find on landing, but old 
wooden shanties seemed fo have been rained down, and our 



VISIT TO PERA. 281 

course was between them, and round them, and all the time up, 
up. We had a kind guide in Mr. G. De Giacom^o, a Greek, who 
carries on th : ship-chandlerj business, and had the supply of our 
yacht. He piloted us round, and took us to several stores ; and 
at one house, up stairs, we saw some exquisitely-embroidered 
muslin dresses, wrought by Armenian women. The ladies 
thought them more beautiful than any similar work in Paris. 
The heat was intense, and the labor of ascending the wretched 
streets, and getting out of the way of asses laden with stones, 
who went straight on, was considerable. The loads on these 
donkeys were immense ; bricks, stones, timber, were tied up with 
cords, and thrown over their backs, and a Turk walked behind 
smoking. AVe entered a cafe for the purpose of obtaining ice- 
cream, but found the preparation not at all palatable. We then 
made our first acquaintance with sherbet. It was rather poor 
stuff, made of fruit and water, and is better in poetry and on the 
page of oriental romancQ than in the streets of Pera. We could 
not avoid noticing that which all travellers allude to, — the mul- 
titude of dogs in the street. They are only the frames of dogs ; 
for such skeletons I never before looked at. They are mostly of 
a dirty-red color, and are the ugliest-looking specimens of the 
canine tribe that can be imagined. At one spot I reckoned thirty- 
seven. They were all lying down, and, to pass along, you have to 
accommodate their slumbers, and give them a wide berth. We 
reached Pera, the residence of the ambassadors during the winter 
months. It is rather better laid out than Galata, but struck us 
as a miserable place. At length we came to a burying-ground, 
densely shaded with cypresses. Here was a cafe with grounds 
laid out in front, and tables under the shade of cypress and other 
trees. We took our places, and called for coffee, which was 
nanded to us in small cups of china, which held no more than 
egg-cups. The prospect extending before us was glorious, and 
a great many persons were there, apparently enjoying it as much 
as we did. 

23^ 



282 

On our return, we descended the hill, and came back by To- 
phana, so as to see the gateway of the new palace which is build- 
ing for the Sultan. It is a very noble building of white marble, 
with extensive wings, faces the Bosphorus, and is on its banks. 
The style is Grecian, and its architect, I was told, is a Greek. 
The grand gate of entrance at the west is the most elaborate 
piece of marble-work that we have ever met with. On our way, 
we met an Araba, with one of the sultanas and three other ladies. 
The carriage was an old-fashioned aflfair, — green, yellow and 
gilt. There were two black eunuchs on horseback, with pistol- 
holsters at the saddle. The lady had been down to the shore to 
look off at the yacht. 

All around our anchorage we were amused with thousands of 
immense gulls, which were as tame as barn-yard poultry. They 
skimmed close to our decks, and swam up to the very sides of the 
yacht and other vessels ; and on the wharves I observed hundreds 
of them perched upon the sheds. They are never molested; 
no gun is ever allowed to be fired at them, and their lives are as 
sacred as are those of the horrid whelps on shore. The por- 
poises, too, in the harbor, are evidently quite at home. They 
rise up close to the caiques, and fear no evil. This sacred 
regard to life is a striking feature in Mahometanism ; and if it 
only had reference to the preservation of humanity, it would be 
a happy circumstance. The following day, our friend Mr. 
Brown having procured a firman from the Sultan, we landed in 
Constantinople, to visit the places of prime interest to foreigners. 
This firman, and the guard who goes with it, and has us in safe- 
keeping at the peril of his life, is a mightily expensive affair, and 
cost us rather more than sixty dollars. We landed in caiques, 
and went off under the charge of Mr. Brown's special guard, 
who was one of the janissaries. 

Our first visit was paid to the seraglio, on the grand point. 
We entered through a desolate-looking court, on one side of 
which stood a clump of fig-trees, the only sign of life or vegeta- 



THE SERAGLIO. 283 

tion to be seen. At the entrance into the seraglio we exchanged 
our boots and shoes for slippers, with which we all came provided. 
Proceeding up a long flight of marble steps, we followed the 
Turkish conductor through long galleries and apartments, which 
were profusely adcrned with engravings, and among them I 
noticed a series of French ones, illustrating the campaigns of 
Napoleon. The ceilings of most of the rooms were painted with 
flowers, and so were many of the walls. The apartments were 
generally matted with straw, and many of them opened upon the 
Bosphorus, others into charming flower-gardens. We were 
shown the most lovely bath-room that I have yet seen ; it is 
composed entirely of white marble, and is as luxurious a spot as 
can be contrived. It was quite a large room. From the prin- 
cipal room of the harem there were a number of smaller apart- 
ments leading off by separate doors. The furniture was gen- 
erally quite plain and old-fashioned; not a footfall can be heard 
upon the thick mattings. 

Descending a few steps on our way to the flower-garden, we 
entered a secluded retreat overhanging the Bosphorus. It had a 
bow-window, marble floor, and a fountain in the centre, that dis- 
charged and sent up a stream which spread into grateful showers 
of spray. The light was softly mellowed by the curtains, and 
from the ceiling a lamp was suspended, which the crystal drops 
just failed to reach. All around were small jets and fountains 
flowing into the basin of the larger one, amid which were large 
golden fish disporting themselves. One room, which was that 
devoted to the Sultan, was very large and lofty. All around are 
immense sofiis, and on one side an imperial couch of vast size, 
covered with a canopy. Around the opened door we were allowed 
to stand, but not to enter. 

The garden is very tastily laid out, and filled with trees, 
shrubs and flowers. I noticed verbenas, gilly-flowers, geraniums, 
raarygolds, roses, and wall-flowers, and orange and lemon trees 
were very abundant. The seraglio has not been occupied for 



284 THE HIPPODROME. 

several years, except by the officials who keep it in order. The 
reason of its desertion, although so supremely beautiful, arises 
from the unpleasant associations which are connected with the 
murder of Sultan Selim ; and the late Sultan and his son, now 
on the throne, have neither been willing to reside here. The 
dragoman informed us that in case of an insurrection escape 
from this point would be impossible. A walk of some little dis- 
tance led us by the spot where Sultan Selim was murdered by 
the janissaries. 

We then entered the Hippodrome, which was built by the 
Roman Emperor Alexander Severus. It is now probably two 
hundred and fifty yards long, and one hundred and fifty wide. 
Many of the monuments which used to adorn this place were 
demolished or stolen by the Crusaders, when they took Constan- 
tinople, in 1204. Among its present striking features I may 
name the obelisk, of red granite, which was cut in Egypt more 
than three thousand three hundred years ago. Its height is 
sixty feet ; it is supported by four bronze blocks, which rest on 
a foundation of marble, on which are bas-reliefs representing the 
races which used to occur in the Hippodrome. 

Here, too, is a brazen pillar of three serpents entwined ; it 
was brought to Constantinople by Constantino from Delphi. 
The heads of the serpents are wanting, and it is said that one 
was struck off by Mahomet II., on his conquest of the city. A 
square marble pillar, erected in the eighth century, and covered 
with brazen plates, was known as the Colossus. It stands at one 
end of the Hippodrome, and served as a meta in the races. 

Not far from the Hippodrome, or, as it is now called, the 
Atmeidan, is the burnt column, which is ninety feet high, and 
composed of porphyry ; but it has so frequently suffered from 
fires, that it is hard to tell of what it is made. It came from 
Athens to Rome, where it adorned the great Temple of Apollo, 
and afterwards was brought here by Constantino ; and it is said 
that he placed in the foundation one of the nails used in the 



THE SUBLIME PORTE. 285 

crucifixion, and several other sacred relics. The inscription 
placed the new capital under the protection of the Saviour of 
the world. The famous bronze horses which now adorn the por- 
tico of St. Mark's, at Venice, formerly stood at the corners of 
this place. The Atmeidan was the scene of the massacre of the 
janissaries, and here they met with their fate by order of Sultan 
Mahmoud, who saved his own life by this sad sacrifice of thou- 
sands of men. 

We now approached a marble gateway, which presents nothing 
very striking in its appearance, but which has afi"orded its name 
to the city and government, — " the Sublime Porte." We were 
here shown the ancient throne-room where the Sultan gave 
audience. The throne is not very unlike an old-fashioned four- 
post bedstead, and stands in one corner of the room. It is 
gilded, and profusely ornamented with precious stones. The 
pillars at its corners are thickly studded with rubies, emeralds 
and turquoises. 

Leaving this, we entered the library, which has a flight of 
steps leading to it. The room was dark and cheerless. Our 
dragoman opened a huge genealogical parchment, which contains 
the pedigree of the Sultans and their portraits, to the time when 
Selim ascended the throne. The MSS. were closely arranged on 
shelves, guarded by an open net-work of iron wire. We were 
shown some beautifully illuminated copies of the Koran. When 
we were at the Sublime Porte, we saw a lad of about' fourteen, 
reciting his lessons to a priest. The boy went on with a gentle 
recitative chant, book in hand, as he squatted down before a 
stool, accompanying his voice with a gentle uniform swaying of 
the body to and fro. He looked on us, and smiled, but by no 
means intermitted his employment. 

Our next visit was to the armory in the ancient Church of 
St. Irene. Here we found all descriptions of weapons, some of 
which were of great antiquity. We were ?auch gratified at see- 



286 MOSQUE or st scphia. 

ing in this place some links of the chain used bj Xerxes at the 
Hellespont. 

And now we turned towards the renowned Mosque of Saint 
Sophia. The history of this wonderful structure of Greek archi- 
tecture for more than one thousand five hundred years is very 
interesting, and I have condensed the leading features of its 
vicissitudes from Von Hammer. 

In the year 325, when the council of Nice was held, Constan- 
tine erected the Temple of Divine Wisdom. In 404 it was 
burned down. It was rebuilt by Theodosius,. 415. In the fifth 
year of Justinian it was again burnt, and was reconstructed with 
greater splendor by that emperor. The building occupied seven 
years, and was completed in 538. Twenty years after, half the 
dome fell in; but Justinian restored it with an additional mag- 
nificence, and at Christmas, 568, it was solemnly reopened. The 
walls and arches were of brick, and the marble columns were 
of the most admirable character; every variety of marble, 
porphyry, granite, white marble with rose-colored veins, green 
• marble from Laconia, blue from Lybia, black Celtic with white 
veins, Egyptian granite and porphyry, was employed. Here 
were eight columns which Aurelius took from the Temple of the 
Sun, at Balbec ; eight green columns from the Temple of Diana, 
at Ephesus ; and several others carried off from Troas, Cyzicus, 
Athens and the Cyclades. Thus had the spoils of idolatrous 
worship Leen devoted to a Christian church ; and the dome of 
St. Sophia proudly rested upon the pillars of the ancient temples 
of paganism. The cross was- planted upon the column which 
supported the statue of Justinian. This cross fell in the great 
earthquake of 1371. In 987 a portion of the dome was again 
thrown down and restored ; so that this magnificent work is partly 
composed of the first edifice of Justinian, i3artly Df the second, 
and then was renovated by Basilius and Constantino. Mahomed 
the Conqueror erected the two pillars toward the sea, and one 
minaret. Selim II. built the next one, and Murad III. erected 



MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA. 287 

the other two minarets, at the north-east. All history testifies 
that this was the most splendid temple of the Byzantine empire. 
The tradition is that an angel delivered the plan of this church 
to Justinian, and also furnished large treasures for its completion. 
At the dedication, Christmas eve, 548, the emperor slaughtered 
one thousand oxen, one thousand sheep, six hundred deer, one 
thousand swine, ten thousand fowls; and, in addition to this, 
distributed thirty thousand measures of corn to the poor. Enter- 
ing the church, he said, " God be praised who has thought me 
worthy to complete such a work. Solomon, I have surpassed 
thee ! " 

This mosque is in the form of a Greek cross ; three of its 
sides are surrounded by vaulted colonnades with cupolas, and 
the other side is the entrance. 

At entering, we had to put on slippers, or walk in our stock- 
ings. The walls are of stone, and highly polished ; while the 
floor is of stone and marble, and covered almost entirely with mat- 
ting. The dome is very grand, and its centre is one hundred 
and eighty feet from the floor, its diameter one hundred and 
fifteen feet, and its height one-sixth of the diameter. The 
extreme interior length of the mosque is one hundred and forty- 
three feet, and its breadth two hundred and sixty-nine feet. The 
eight porphyry columns from the Temple of the Sun, at Rome, 
support the dome ; and, with smaller ones of white marble, the 
cupolas, also, on either side of the dome. Twenty-four Egyptian 
granite pillars sustain the galleries. The columns in all amount 
to one hundred and seven. On the vault of the dome are four 
immense seraphim in mosaic work, and beside them are, in giant 
characters, the names of Ebubekr, Omar, Osman and Ali, the 
companions of the Arabian impostor. In the dome itself is 
inscribed a verse of the Koran, — " God is the light of the 
heavens and the earth." These words are illuminated on the 
nights of the Ramazan by a large number of lamps. The cupola 
is lighted by twenty-four windows. The Mi?iher, or pulpit, where 



288 MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA. 

prayer for the Sultan is read on Friday, has two flags, one on 
each side, to denote the triumph of Islamism over Judaism and 
Christianity. The pulpit for instruction, but which is seldom 
employed, was given by Sultan Murad IV. ; and it rests on, I 
think, four marble columns. 

On one column of this church is a large impression of a hand, 
made, it is said, by one of the early Sultans ; and there is a 
popular notion that when that impression disappears the Turk- 
ish power will pass away. 

Two large vases, or fountains of water, are placed here, the 
gift of Murad III., for the refreshment of worshippers. The 
Sultan's seat is elevated, and enclosed in a gilded lattice-work. 
Many of the priests seem to live here day and night, and we 
saw many of the Turks reclining at full length on the floor, some 
evidently asleep. Several of the faithful were reciting their 
prayers in a loud and monotonous tone ; and their eyes followed 
us in all our movements, with no very benignant expression. 
Certainly, if I had not placed implicit faith in the virtue of the 
firman, I should have had serious apprehensions of our personal 
safety. Never did I see men scowl at their fellow-men as did 
some of these worthies upon our ladies, as they walked through 
the mosque. We left it with emotions of thankfulness that 
men are not always to believe a lie, and glad to know that 
the crescent must surely give way to the cross, and the Crucified 
One yet prove the resistless attractions of his deathless love by 
drawing all men unto him. 



CHAPTER XX. 

MOSQUE OF ACHMET MUZZEIN'S CALL — COSTUMES OP THE JANISSARIES 

REV. MR. BENJAMIN TOMB OF SULTAN MAHMOUD BAZAARS SHOP- 
PING — VISIT TO THE ENGLISH YACHT SYLPHIDE — TURKISH VISITORS — 
AMERICAN MISSIONARIES EXCURSION TO SCUTARI HOWLING DER- 
VISHES CEMETERY WEDDING BULGURLU SCENERY CHALCEDON 

■ — A KIOSK HOUSE IN WHICH THE LATE SULTAN DIED SOLDIERS 

COMING IN FROM ASIA DARK RIDE SAIL TO BEBEK AFFECTING 

INCIDENT VILLAGE OF BEBEK MISSION PREMISES EDUCATION OF 

BOYS IN MECHANICAL ARTS PERSECUTION MR. HABILIN ARMENIAN 

PRIEST THE FAMILY CIRCLE "LIGHT ON THE DARK RIVER" MISS 

LOVELL — MR. MINASIAN. 

We continued our exploration by a visit to the Mosque of 
Aclimet. This building has one peculiarity : it is the only 
mosque in the empire with six minarets, and has two more 
than the famous one at Mecca. The location of this beautiful 
edifice is on a part of the ancient Hippodrome. The most impres- 
sive feature, on entering the mosque, is the group of massive 
columns which support the dome. The circumference of each of 
these four columns is not less than thirty-six yards. The cupola 
of the great dome is surrounded by four half-cupolas, each of 
which is joined by two entirely round cupolas, which form behind 
the four enormous pillars the four corners of the mosque, which 
therefore appears on the outside to be composed of nine cupolas. 
The Minber is a copy of the pulpit at Mecca, and is surmounted 
with a gilt crown, and over this a crescent. This mosque is the 
richest in Constantinople, and its treasures are said to be im- 
mense. As we entered it the Muzzeins were calling aloud the 
hour of prayer from the minaret. 
24 



290 JANISSAKIES — REV. MR. BENJAMII^. 

In our morning perambulation we met with every variety of 
costume. The full-bearded Turk, with the old turban, which is 
much less common than it was a few years ago, — the Fez cap is 
everywhere seen ; the smart-looking Armenian, with his well-to- 
do air ; the ill-clad Jew ; Albanians in gay apparel ; beggars of all 
ages ; women, with their white yashmak and fancy-colored robe, 
shuffling along in their yellow boots ; even the colored women 
wear the yashmak. 

We now took carriages and proceeded to the gallery contain- 
ing the costumes of the janissaries; and here we passed a 
delightful hour. The massacre of this formidable body was or- 
dered by the late Sultan Mahmoud II., and it took place on the 
15th of June, 1823. They would not brook the idea of reform, 
and had so long been accustomed to.guide the councils of the 
Sultan, and even change the person of the sovereign, that Mah- 
moud, who had seen the murder of his cousin and predecessor, 
well understood how precarious was his hold on the throne, and 
determined to extirpate this proud body, or perish in the under- 
taking. The Atmeidan was the scene of their slaughter, and the 
survivors were sent to distant parts of the empire. 

"VVe received much information, all the morning, from our kind 
friend the Rev. Mr. Benjamin, a missionary at this city from 
the American board. Mr. B. married the sister of Mr. Daniel 
B. Allen, one of our party. He has long resided here, and is 
well acquainted with the objects of interest. 

In this gallery the figures are lifelike, made of wax, and 
dressed in the identical clothing of the different orders and offices 
of the body. The dresses were very richly adorned with em- 
broidery and costly trimmings. Here, too, were the wax effigies 
of some Circassians, who were very beautiful. On our way here 
we passed the marble mausoleum of Sultan Mahmoud. It is in 
a neat flower-garden, and is surrounded by a richly-gilt iron 
fence. In the interior is a room with large glass chandeliers. 
The coffin is covered with a pall of red velvet, embroidered with 



BAZAARS — SHOPPING. 291 

gold, surmounted by the Fez cap of the Sultan, with an aigrette 
of heron's feathers, looped by a diamond clasp. 

Our steps were now turned to the bazaars ; and these must be 
seen to be at all understood. They are very narrow alleys ; 
the buildings having iron roofs in some cases, for safety. These 
alleys are a perfect. labyrinth, and each trade has its own pre- 
cincts ; thus shawls, glass, slippers, rugs, furs, gilt goods, perfum- 
eries, embroideries, silks, are all to be found in difierent localities. 
Up ani down the narrow hill-side alley you must travel many a 
weary step in search of articles ; and horses belonging to pachas, 
and attended by servants on foot, are liable to be met at every 
other step. I went into several carpet and rug stalls, and found 
their owners cross-legged and sipping coffee, which they offered 
me in the early period of our negotiations. These rugs and 
carpets are of exquisite fabric, the Persian being much finer and 
more compact in texture than the Turkey article. The goods 
are all placed in open sight, and the salesman usually sits on his 
stand, and manifests no anxiety to dispose of his goods. We 
went to a diamond merchant's, and certainly, when entering the 
narrow and dirty-looking quarters, should never have supposed 
that such immense wealth was there concentrated. Vast quan- 
tities of precious stones were exposed to our examination, and, a 
young man coming in with a bit of paper, one of the concern 
opened an iron safe^ and I saw a box full of gold coin, in which, 
I suppose, there was at least half a bushel. One thousand sov- 
ereigns were taken out, but still it was a box full of gold. Shop- 
ping is a queer business in this city. Rarely do you give more 
than half the price demanded for anything offered you in the 
bazaar. No sooner did we stop at a stall than we were beset with 
a motley crowd of lookers-on, — Jews, Turks, and boys of all 
ages, — crying, Bucksheesh. Then there were always people 
waiting to carry your parcels, and Jews drumming up for the 
benefit of other merchants, who they know will suit you better. 
One old Jew, named Moses, really pleased me ; he seemed to be 



292 VISIT TO THE ENGLISH YACHT SYLPHIDE. 

an honest fellow, and certainly knew more about goods than the 
rest of the hangers-on ; he really gave us assistance in the 
purchase of several articles. Glass, boots, shoes, silk goods and 
jewelry, are all to be bought at low prices. The silversmiths are 
chiefly Armenians. Almost every burden is transported in the 
streets of Constantinople upon men's backs, and often did I pity 
the poor creature who was borne down nearly to the earth under 
a weight which would have better suited a horse. 

Satisfied with our purchases, tired with that most laborious 
work, sight-seeing, we were glad to resume our carriages at 
the entrance of the bazaar ; and thankful we were to reach the 
shore, and place ourselves, Turk-fashion, on the cushions of the 
charming caique, which soon propelled us to the yacht. 

Thursday morning, we made an early return-call upon Mr. 
and Mrs. Leyland, on board their yacht, the Sylphide. We were 
received with much courtesy, and spent a very agreeable half- 
hour in the cabin. We were then politely shown over every part 
of this charming craft. I think the internal arrangements of 
this ship hardly allow of improvement. The saloon occupied by 
the ladies had far less the appearance of a ship's cabin than of 
a parlor in a well-arranged gentleman's mansion. Books, en- 
gravings, maps and works of art, adorned the apartment ; and the 
dining-room was as completely adapted for comfort as it could 
have been on shore. The access to the state-rooms was very 
well contrived, and they were spacious and elegant. The arrange- 
ment, I remember, admitted the entire suite of rooms being 
opened to a current of air from forward to aft. In the saloon 
was a fireplace; the panels of the room were mahogany and 
rosewood. Elegant book-shelves encircled the base of the mast, 
and on the mantel were Maltese stone vases, filled with flowers 
of delicious perfume. Sofas of crimson plush and comfortable 
arm-chairs gave a home-like air to the apartment. In the state- 
rooms the beds were swung between the ports, and more lux- 
urious chambers no lady could desire. The same comfort 



TURKISH AND OTHER VISITORS. 21)^3 

extended to the rooms of the doctor, and all others that we saw. 
The family, during the summer, Mrs. Leyland told me, usually 
dined upon deck. 

The yacht was weighing anchor and getting ready for sea, 
and when we went on deck we found a pen of sheep, just got 
ready for the voyage ; among them I noticed a fine specimen of 
the Cameronian breed, remarkable for its enormous tail. There 
Avas in a separate pen a beautiful deer. He had become such a 
pet with all on board, that his life was to be spared. Playing 
by his side was a noble Newfoundland dog, the favorite of his 
young master. On the upper deck cane-bottomed swinging 
settees gave us pleasant seats for a few minutes before we took 
our leave of this pleasant family circle. More perfect taste and 
elegance I have never seen in a sailing ship. 

On our return to our steamer we found the saloon filled with 
visitors. Pachas of all ranks, and ofl&cers of the Turkish army 
and navy, Armenian merchants, English and French residents, 
were all in strong force ; and, in addition to these, several of the 
American missionaries who dwell here and at Bebek, a town on 
the Bosphorus, about five miles east. We were delighted to 
meet with the Rev. Messrs. Schauffler, Hamlin, Dwight, and 
their amiable families. Mr. Dwight left his card for me, but I 
was not able to meet him. Mr. Hamlin was very anxious that 
Mrs. Choules and I should take breakfast with him the next day, 
and kindly offered to come down and fetch us in a caique. To 
do this, he would have to leave his home at half-past four, so 
that we might have an early repast, and be back to the yacht in 
time to see the Sultan attend mosque. 

The Turks appeared to enjoy their visit on board. Some of 
them conversed fluently in English and French. One pacha, 
who had been educated in England, had charge of the manufac- 
ture of fire-arms for the Sultan. He was a noble-looking man. 

After our visitors left, I, in company with Dr. Linsly and his 
lady Mrs. Cross,- Miss Thorne, Mrs. Choules, and Mr. George 
24* 



294 EXCURSION TO SCUTARI — CEMETERY. 

Vanderbilt, joined our good friend Mr. Brown, in an excursion to 
Scutari. On landing upon the Asiatic side, we noticed a tower, 
known as the Maiden's Tower, and to which tradition attaches a 
story. We were shown the kiosk where the Sultan fainted when 
he learned the death of a favorite slave, who had been poisoned. 
The Asiatic side is a mile and a quarter from the city, and has a 
back-ground of richly-cultivated hills, which are well planted 
with trees of various kinds. AVe left our boat at the quay, and 
ascended the long and narrow streets of Scutari. Our intention 
was to be present at the service of the howling dervishes. Our 
janissary went with us, and, after threading several wretched 
lanes, we came to the monastery of these strange religionists. 
Everything looked wretched and forlorn. As we entered, the 
dance was closing by the kissing of hands, and the exhausted 
dervishes were leaving the hall. We went in ; the company 
was small, the room filthy, and a mean-looking divan ran round 
it. On the walls were hanging various implements, cords and 
irons, and nothing looked like adaptation to comfort, but rather 
a manufactory of misery. The retiring brotherhood had a dried- 
up, shrivelled expression ; they were lank, and seemed worn out. 
We regretted the loss of the only opportunity to witness the 
extraordinary spectacle. We repaired to a coffee-shop near by, 
and seating ourselves on stools under a fine spreading tree, 
were refreshed with excellent coffee and fine grapes. Mr. 
Brown's janissary now procured us carriages ; they were as gay 
as red paint and gilding could make them. The drivers ran by 
the sides of the carriages. We ascended the hill, and came 
upon the famous cemetery of Scutari. The Turks are fearful of 
being ultimately expelled from Europe, and are very anxious 
to be buried in Asia; so that the cemeteries in Scutari are 
much employed by the inhabitants of Constantinople. The 
position is certainly most charming, and all around are noble 
groves of cypresses. We met with strange-looking vehicles on 
the road, and one araba was filled with a party evidently 



WEDDING — SCENERY. 295 

dressed for a festive occasion. It was drawn by four white oxen 
fantastically dressed, and having red tassels hanging from a 
frame over their heads and shoulders. One of our carriages 
broke down, but the ladies were not injured ; and, leaving the 
driver to repair his damage and follow on, we walked up the 
hill. 

We soon came to a kiosk where a wedding-feast was in course 
of celebration, and a large company seemed gathered. Here we 
saw a number of dancing boys, who had been entertaining the 
guests. The assemblage was breaking up as we approached. In 
about fifteen minutes more we ascended the hill which is called 
Bulgurlu, and I am sure that we shall none of us forget the 
scene that opened upon our gaze. Two quarters of the world 
were before us. The evening was balmy, and the atmosphere 
perfectly clear. The panorama is unrivalled upon earth. There 
was Constantinople, the Golden Horn lying between her and her 
sister cities. Off at our left are the gardens of the old Byzan- 
tium, and the white buildings of the seraglio in their front. 
Off to the right there are Pera, Galata and Tophana. There, 
are a hundred mosques and minarets ; between all this and 
Scutari there is the Bosphorus, its innumerable vessels, and 
its arrowy caiques ; all along its banks are ranges of terraces 
and rows of houses of different colors, each residence surrounded 
by groves and gardens. 

As we stood on this eminence, off to our left lay Chalcedony, 
so famous for a council held here against Eutyches ; and again 
to the right, far away in the Bosphorus, I could descry the masts 
of the combined Turkish and Egyptian fleets ; and beyond were 
the dark waves of the Euxine. The sun, breaking from his cur- 
tains of gold and purple, cast a mellowed glory over this won- 
drous prospect. For more than half an hour we sat under the 
shade of a venerable oak, sipping coffee, and gazing upon scenes 
we were unwilling to leave. Close by was a kiosk and a charm- 
ing garden ; it belongs to the physician of the late Sultan. He 



296 GRAPES — sultan's fountain —soldiers. 

is not in favor, and is regarded as one of a party opposed to the 
present Sultan's measures. A party was dining with him, and 
we saw the servants carrying in the covers. Mr. Brown, who 
knew the proprietor, obtained permission for us to walk in the 
garden, and a servant gathering grapes presented a noble clus- 
ter to one of the ladies. The grapes were the largest we had 
yet met with, and exquisitely flavored. Close by our shady seat 
was a spring of water, known as the Sultan's Fountain, from 
which we drank cooling draughts as it flowed up from the rock. 
Here we listened to Mr. Brown's localizations of the different 
spots. Directly below us, and a little to our left, he pointed out 
an insignificant painted wooden house, of small dimensions, in 
which the late Sultan died. He was brought here for change of 
air, and to be under the eye of his physician. The air of the 
mountains could not give health to the monarch of this beau- 
tiful land, and he now lies in his sumptuous mausoleum. We 
reluctantly bade adieu to this mountain, and, resuming our 
carriages, had a long down-hill ride in the shades of the 
evening. The roads are beyond description wretched and full 
of rocks, and it required very little aid of the fancy to believe 
that they had never been repaired since Xerxes travelled over 
them. Dr. Linsly preferred the use of his legs. As we went 
out in the afternoon, I ought to say that we met with a number 
of soldiers coming in from remote places as volunteers for the 
army. They were warlike-looking fellows, well mounted. They 
came by twos and threes, and I suppose we passed fifty or sixty. 
It was pitch dark when we reached the water-side, and as we 
were entering our caiques I lighted my cigar from the chibouque 
of a solemn-looking Turk. A pleasant sail to the yacht closed 
one of the most agreeable excursions that I ever remember to 
have made. 

Friday morning, in accordance with our previous engagement, 
Dr. and Mrs. Linsly and Mrs. Choules were all up at four 
o'clock, in order to be ready when Mr. Hamlin should fetch us 



AFFECTING INCIDENT. 297 

to Bebek. At five o'clock he was alongside, and we at once 
took our seats in a noble caique ; and how did we enjoy that 
quiet morning on the beautiful waters of the Bosphorus ! The 
cxquisi^ scenery and the swift sailing were all new to us. 
Rapidly did we glide by the palace of Sultan and Pacha, until, 
nearing another, we were told of a heart-rending afiair which 
was identified with its magnificence. By Ottoman law, the male 
children of the reigning Sultan's daughters are destroyed at 
birth. The late Sultan Mahmoud had one daughter, to whom 
he was ardently attached. When she arrived at a marriageable 
age, every overture of marriage was declined on her part, on this 
account. At length her father, prompted by paternal affection, 
gave her a sacred writing, under his own hand and seal, that if 
she had any sons they should be exempt from the universal law. 
She married, and three daughters in succession cheered her 
heart. At length her royal father died, and, soon after, a son 
was born. Never was the precious treasure sufi"ered for a 
moment to be absent from her sight ; fully aware of the frail 
tenure of her darling boy on life, she vainly hoped by anxious 
watchfulness on her part to preserve the child. Alas ! in ab- 
sence of all other means, the infant's garments were poisoned, 
and, seized with convulsions, it expired in her presence. Too 
well she understood the cause ; delirium followed the terrible 
consciousness, and in ten days her life was a sacrifice to the bar- 
barity of this murderous custom, and she died a maniac. " I 
was passing the Sultana's palace," said Mr. Hamlin, *' when the 
prolonged and awful death-wail announced that the tragic scene 
was over." It is quite possible that the Sultan knew nothing of 
this sad story until all was over. The Turks do not like innova- 
tions upon their national habitudes. 

The entire sail this morning was past a long line of palatial 
kiosks, and in the Bosphorus were innumerable vessels of almost 
every flag. We soon reached Bebek, which has a lovely position 
in a small bay ; this is a populous village. On the landing are 



298 MR. HAMLIN — SCHOOL OF THE MISSION. 

some magnificent oaks, and trees which look as if they had the 
growth of two or three hundred years. Dr. and Mrs. Linsly 
went to the Rev. Mr. Schauffler's to breakfast, and we accom- 
panied Mr. Hamlin to his abode, which is romantically «ituated 
midway on the hill. The house is of wood, painted black, and 
is of large dimensions. It was purchased of a Greek ; was built 
about fifty years ago, as an inscription of date records ; and, 
when I asked why it was painted black, I was informed that it was 
intended by its original proprietor to denote his humble, submis- 
sive spirit in relation to the government and people. This is the 
location of the educational aflfairs of the mission, at the head 
of which our friend Mr. Hamlin presides. I went into the 
school-room, which was spacious and well-arranged, having 
the necessary apparatus for imparting knowledge. The present 
number of pupils, who are boys of different ages, up to twenty, is 
fifty-four. On the premises are shops and out-houses for mechan- 
ical purposes. The pupils are taught to make stoves, pipes, 
watering-pots, &c., for all which a ready sale is secured. A 
steam-engine of considerable power is on the premises, and a 
building is noAV going up for a bakery, which is an operation 
that can only be carried on in Turkey under a special firman 
from the Sultan. This privilege is allowed to every embassy, 
and has been recently claimed by Mr. Marsh, our minister 
at Constantinople, and made over to the institution at Bebek. 
This will be a very profitable employment, and of great 
benefit .to the school. Several of the pupils have been sent to 
America to improve themselves in the mechanical arts, and on 
their return have proved eminently useful. 

Much persecution is endured by the Christians, not so much 
from the Turks as from the Catholic part of the Armenians. 
They are, in almost all instances, thrown out of the way of 
obtaining business. Mr. Hamlin stated that the night before a 
man called on him to procure employment ; he was a tailor. A 
few months before, he had united with the church ; he had now 



"light on the dark river." 299 

no means of supporting his family, because, since his conversion, 
all his trade had been withdrawn, orders previously given for 
clothes were countermanded, and he could not support his family 
unless he could obtain employment from the work-shops of the 
mission. 

I was exceedingly pleased with the aspect of the premises. 
Everything looked like good management and thrift. Mr. Ham- 
lin is an extraordinary man ; he has great mechanical talents, 
and appears perfectly at home among brick, mortar, lathes and 
steam-engines. The engine is of his own construction. The 
interior of the house showed that strict frugality was the rule of 
the domestic economy. The furniture was plain, — exceedingly 
so ; and I did wish that those who complain about the luxury of 
missionary life could have seen this establishment. The break- 
fast-table was a cheerful spectacle. Everything was neat, but 
far from luxurious, and certainly was only what every New 
England country pastor, who has four or five hundred dollars a 
year, would have daily on his morning table. We had the 
pleasure to meet at breakfast with an aged Armenian priest, who, 
on account of his embracing evangelical truth, had been subjected 
to deprivation of office and the grossest personal indignities. 
He is now the faithful and efficient deacon of a church in the 
country, and has a high character for piety and usefulness. He 
is a most venerable-looking man, and would make a good study 
for a painter. Mr. Hamlin's daughters are fine girls; they 
have never seen America, and they will excite the interest of 
hundreds and thousands in Christian America who may peruse 
the most fascinating piece of female biography of our day, in a 
volume just published by Messrs. Ticknor & Co., of Boston, 
called " Light on the Dark Ricer.'' The volume is the life of 
the late Mrs. Hamlin, the mother of these dear girls. This work 
is written by Mrs. Lawrence, a daughter of the Rev. Dr. Woods, 
of Andover, and is, beyond all question, one of the most charm- 
ing and pathetic productions recently issued from the press. I 



300 MISS LOVELL — MR. MINASIAN — BIRDS. 

wish I could think that my notice of this little volume might 
induce some who have never seen it to at once do themselves the 
pleasure and benefit. Mr. Hamlin has married again, and hia 
lady was well known as Miss Lovell to American Christians, from 
her devoted labors as a teacher in Turkey. When Mr. Goodell 
visited the American churches a few months ago, and made his 
touching appeals to us on behalf of Turkey, he often stated the 
successful labors of this gifted and energetic lady. I have no 
doubt that he was correct when he said that probably she had 
done more good by her efibrts than most ministers who had re- 
mained at home in her native state of New York. Seated at the 
table, I told Mr. Hamlin how deeply I was interested in listen- 
ing to Mr. Goodell's warm-hearted and simple statements about 
Miss Lovell, and expressed my wish to see her. He smiled, a 
lady blushed, and I was again presented to Mrs. Hamlin as the 
late Miss Lovell. Long may these excellent friends live to toil 
and labor for the good of Turk, Greek and Armenian ! The 
Great Day will pronounce their blessedness ! 

On our return, we were accompanied by Mr. S. M. Minasian, 
a former pupil of this school, and who, having passed some years 
in America, now carries on business in Constantinople. He was 
our kind guide for the day, and greatly aided Mrs. C. in obtain- 
ing articles which she wished to purchase. I would earnestly 
commend this gentleman to all Americans who may visit Con- 
stantinople as one who will gladly render them the most valuable 
services, and on whose knowledge, judgment and integrity, they 
may most implicitly depend. On our way back to the yacht we 
saw many of those small brown birds which are so common in 
the Bosphorusf and are supposed by the Turks to be " lost spir- 
its." They are continually on the wing, wending their way from 
the Black Sea to that of Marmora. 

Our reason for returning so early to the yacht was to see the 
Grand Sultan go to mosque ; and then, after that pageant was 
enjoyed, we were to go through the Bosphorus up to the Black 



SEMINARY AT BEBEK — COURSE OF INSTRUCTION. 301 

Sea, and have a sight of the combined fleets of Turkey and 
Egypt. 

The Protestant community in Turkey, as far as it consists of 
native subjects of the Porte, is principally Armenian, and con- 
tains about three thousand five hundred. There are seventeen 
churches, and a large number of common schools. The seminary 
at Bebek is designed to furnish teachers, pastors and translators, 
for this community, and for the extension of missionary labor. 
The course of instruction at Bebek embraces a period of five 
years, except for those who have thoroughly studied their own 
language previous to entering the institution ; in such cases the 
term is lessened one year. 

LANGUAGES. 

Ancient and modern Armenian, Turkish, Greek and English. 
The Armenian, Turkish and Greek, are spoken languages of the 
country, and demand far less time than the English. 

MATHEMATICS. 

Arithmetic, algebra, geometry, trigonometry, measuring heights 
and distances, surveying. 

PHYSICAL SCIENCES. 

The following text-books are used in courses of experimental 
lectures : 

Olmsted's School Philosophy, Smillie's Philosophy of Natural 
History, Silliman's Chemistry, Herschel's Astronomy. The les- 
sons are prepared in English text-books, but are recited in 
Armenian, in which language the lectures are delivered. 

INTELLECTUAL AND MORAL SCIENCE, AND RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION. 

Upham's Intellectual Philosophy ; Upham on the "VYill ; Way- 
land's Moral Science; Paley's Evidences; Philosophy of the 
25 



802 SEMINARY AT BEBEK. 

plan of Salvation; Butler's Analogy; a Theological lecture 
Wednesday evening ; Sermon on Sabbath morning ; Exposition 
Sabbath afternoon ; Bible-class and Prayer-meeting in the eve- 
ning. 

Geography, Rhetoric and History, are studied in connection 
with the Armenian course, in that language. 

After going through this preparatory course, such as are fitted 
by talent and influenced by grace to undertake the work of the 
ministry commence theological study in a separate and additional 
course. 

I have already alluded to a manual-labor department in the 
school, and which has grown to great importance. In a stone 
magazine, used by the Greek proprietor as a wine-cellar, are fitted 
up a japanning oven and camphene factory. The machine-shop is 
in excellent order; and there are assaying furnaces and a black- 
smith's forge. In addition there is now a bakery, granary, 
flour-mill and a last-factory. Thus labor is furnished for ten or 
twelve persons, and a large amount of profitable employment for 
the students, most materially lessening the expense. 

This course of operation, it is probable, will introduce the 
useful arts, with their modern improvements and machinery, into 
the country, so as to raise the Protestants in public esteem. 
Many of the students are now engaged in the useful arts in Con- 
stantinople ; and, if they succeed, those who have formerly been 
excluded from labor by the combined influence of the Armenians 
— both Greeks and Catholics — will attain respectability and 
comfort. 

Six pupils have been ordained as pastors or evangelists ; two 
licensed to preach. Six are now studying theology, and several 
are engaged as proof-readers, translators and teachers. 

The manual-labor department has been carried on without any 
support from the missionary society. J^Iany travellers, and, I am 
happy to say, some of our North Star party, have cheerfully 
placed a few stones in the structure. English merchants and 



SEMINARY AT BEBEK — THE SULTAN. 303 

residents have been generous, I learn, in aiding the good work, 
and the American legation has always been kind and liberal. I 
found the missionaries all unite in expressions of kind respect 
for the important services of Mr. Brown whilst acting as Charge 
d'Affaires in Mr. Marsh's absence in Greece. The bakery will 
be fully equal to ten scholar sJdps. 

The editing and printing of missionary matter is done at Con- 
stantinople. At present there is in press, I learn from my 
valued friend Rev. Mr. Benjamin, an edition of the New Tes- 
tament in ancient Armenian; Flavel on Keeping the Heart; 
Lucilla; Lives of the Patriarchs and Prophets, in Armenian 
and Turkish; a Bible Dictionary; Commentaries on separate 
books of Scripture ; and a newspaper, in Armenian, will soon 
appear. A boarding-school for girls is established at Hasskerry, 
and contains about thirty pupils. 

It gives me great happiness to bear my testimony to the sense 
which I cherish of the vast importance of these labors, and the 
fidelity and zeal in which they are evidently discharged. 

Mr. Hamlin has just put up an electric telegraph in the Sul- 
tan's palace, and during his engagement had much opportunity 
to see and converse with the Sultan, of whom he speaks as being 
mild and gentlemanly, conversing fluently in French, and toler- 
ably well in English. 

Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin have been seventeen years at Athens 
and Smyrna, and now reside in Constantinople. They have a 
chapel in their own house, and service three times on the Lord's 
day, in Armenian. Mr. Benjamin preaches, and is occupied in 
translatino; books. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

9 -LTAN GOINa TO MOSQUE CAIQUES A STEAMBOAT CHARTERED EX- 
CURSION UP THE BOSPHORUS — EUROPEAN BANK TURKISH AND EGYP- 
TIAN FLEET SYMPLEGADES BLACK SEA — ASIATIC COAST LAND AT 

KANDALI RETURN TO YACHT DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE 

VOYAGE TO GIBRALTAR ARRIVAL AT THE ROCK APPEARANCE OF 

BOCK AND TOWN THE METHODIST CHAPEL REV. W. II. BIDAVELL 

STREETS AND MARKETS SHOPS AND GOODS — EXCURSION TO THE ROCK 

ENGLISH OFFICERS ST. GEORGE's HALL ST. MICHAEL'S CAVE 

MONKEYS DINNER AT MR. SPRAGUE'S HISTORICAL NOTICES SMUG- 
GLERS SHOT — PROFFERED HOSPITALITIES EXCURSION TO THE CORK 

WOODS "CHARLEY," THE MOORISH MERCHANT DINNER WITH THE 

FORTY-FOURTH REGIMENT — VISITORS TO THE YACHT. 

Friday is the Turkish Sabbath ; and every Friday the Sultan 
goes in state to some one of the numerous mosques of the city 
or neighborhood. On this occasion he had selected the mosque 
in Galata, close by our yacht. At about ten we saw the im- 
perial caiques going up to the marble palace to fetch the Sultan 
and his suite. All the ships of war and vessels of commerce 
were richly decked with flags. An Austrian steamer was one 
mass of colored bunting. The North Star was gayly caparisoned 
for the day, and looked finely. I have never seen so much 
river show and display, since the 4th November, 1825, when the 
Erie Canal celebration came off at New York. 

Presently there is the loud booming of cannon from the 
Seraglio Point, and it is echoed and reechoed from Scutari and 
the hills back of the cities. Finer echoes I never listened to. 
Hark! there are ten thousand reverberations, for every ship in 
the Bosphorus, and every fort in Stamboul is discharging guns 
in rapid succession. 



SULTAN GOING TO MOSQUE. 305 

There come the caiques, — four of the most graceful creations 
of art that I ever saw. They are very long — at least eighty 
feet, — and are in color of white and gold, each with beautii'ul 
canopies in the stern. They move with vast rapidity, impelled 
by twenty-eight oarsmen. In the third caique sat the Sultan on 
his throne, under a velvet canopy ; and with our glasses we saw 
him distinctly. Our yacht gave a salute of twenty-one guns as 
the procession passed. On arrival at the wharf the oars were 
uplifted, and the shore lined with troops. The Sultan lands, 
and several of our party in a caique are close by, and see him 
distinctly. He is in European dress, — black frock-coat and pan- 
taloons, — and wears the Fez cap. As he steps on shore, every 
one bends lowly and gracefully in salutation. He walks through 
the ranks; the noise of cannon ceases, and the crowd quickly 
disperses as he enters the house of prayer. A richly-dressed 
and very able band received the Sultan as he landed. Several 
boats kept around the aquatic procession, and I noticed men 
holding up papers in their hands ; and to these boats two or three 
smaller ones of the royal cortege immediately pulled up, and 
took the papers. These were petitions to the Sultan, and which 
are never rejected. Every one has the right to appeal to the 
Sultan in this way. 

Mr. Vanderbilt did not like to risk taking the North Star up 
the Bosphorus, as it is so thronged with all descriptions of ves- 
sels ; and he deemed it best to charter a small steamboat for our 
party. This was done at an expense of about sixty dollars. 

As the Sultan was again entering his caique, after short ser- 
vices at the mosque, we moved slowly and bore oflf, that we 
might again see the ruler of this great people. He returned 
with less splendor, — only with two caiques. He sat under a 
red umbrella, and we could see him to advantage. He landed 
at the new palace, which is nearly finished, and we went on. 

Far up on the high hill on our left, commanding a glorious 
prospect, stands the military school. The Seraglio Point and the 
25^ 



306 EXCURSION UP THE BOSPHORUS. 

Golden Horn are now left behind. Our boat hugs the European 
side, so that with our opera-glasses we can note every object of 
interest ; but it is impossible to do justice to the surpassing 
beauty of this ever-changing panorama. Long rows of marble 
palaces, with gardens of great beauty, kiosks, mosques, high 
hills, clothed with the richest shades of foliage, and thickly 
sprinkled with princely residences, meet the eye at every glance 
on either side. There is a noble palace, built by the late Sultan 
for his son, now on the throne. When Mahmoud died, it was 
not quite finished, — lacked the upper story ; in accordance with 
the custom, it has never been resumed, is fast going to decay, 
and one of these days it will be hinted that it looks badly, and 
a lighted coal will be quietly dropped into its apartments, and it 
will disappear. It is of wood, as a prejudice exists against 
stone ; and the new palace, now in course of erection, is the only 
marble one in the empire. AVe now approached the palace of 
Mahmoud, which had been unoccupied since his death. Just 
beyond is a long range of columns shooting up from low buildings, 
which resemble cupolas. These are chimneys of the imperial 
kitchens, and next is a fine edifice, which is the Sultan's present 
home, and into which he removed just before his father's death. 
And now come the abodes of vizier, pacha and state officers ; the 
palace of the late Sultana Yalide, the mother of the present 
Sultan ; those of his sisters ; and here are the brazen gates of 
that unfortunate one whose sad end I have alluded to before. 
Now we are on a point of the Bosphorus of great historical 
interest. These towers of Europe and Asia mark the spot where 
Darius, and afterwards the Crusaders, crossed the Bosphorus. 
Here are the fortifications built by the latter. On the bold 
European clifi" stands the tower built by Mahomed II., when, as 
conqueror, he entered Europe. The strait is very narrow, and 
the view both up and down the water gloriously beautiful. High 
projecting clififs, not rough and cragged, but clothed with soft 
verdure; hills and slopes dotted with imposing habitations; 



URKISn AND EGYPTIAN FLEET — KANDALI. ^07 

Biniling villages adorned with cypress, plane and olive trees, 
make up the prospect. 

About two miles from the Black Sea we came to a fine bay, in 
which lay at anchor the noble fleet of Turkey and Egypt. They 
are exceedingly fine-looking ships ; some of them are of immense 
size. One — the Mahmoud — is a four-decker, and looks as 
large as any ship I ever saw. They all have the old square- 
built sterns, with side galleries. I reckoned about thirty ships, 
and there were probably not fewer than ten or twelve steamers, 
and a vast number of tenders and other craft engaged in sup- 
plies for the fleet. 

Not far from this spot is Therapia, a most charming retreat, 
where the foreign ministers reside in the summer. Here, I sup- 
pose, was Mr. Marsh, of whom we saw nothing during our stay. 

The light-house on the mouth of the Bosphorus, at the entrance 
to the Black Sea, was the limit of our excursion east. Just 
opposite to it are the Symplegades of mythology. We now 
came down the Asiatic side, passing the fortress of Biva ; the 
cape of Jum Burun ; Poiras, — which fortress stands opposite 
to the European castle ; Anatoli ; the Giant's Mountain, which is 
the loftiest elevation on the Bosphorus ; Unkiar Skelessi, or the 
landing place of the Sultan, and once a favorite resort of royalty, 
but now the site of a paper-mill ; Begkos, a pretty village ; Sul- 
tania, a pleasant bend of the Bosphorus; Kandali, the most 
beautiful place on the Asiatic side, and renowned for the purity 
of the air. Here we all landed, so that the entire party might 
claim to have been in Asia. We were politely invited to visit a 
mansion on the hill, owned by a French gentleman, but our time 
would not permit. We took cofi"ee at the little cafe on the dock. 
I never saw a place where I so longed to tarry, and enjoy the 
unnumbered beauties of the scene. Every word that Murray 
says is true. " Vain is the attempt to describe the separate or 
collective beauties of hills and dales ; of bights and bays ; of 
meadows and springs; of dark cypress groves and light rose- 



308 DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE. 

beds ; of roaring currents and flowing streams ; of golden kiosks 
and marble fountains ; this confusion of flag-bearing masts and 
towering minarets ; of cupolas floating in air, and caiques cleav- 
ing the waves." From the eminence you can see the Euxine 
and the Sea of Marmora by only turning your head. Again in 
our little steamer, we pass by several charming places, as Beg- 
ler-beg, Istawros and Kusghundschik, which is hard by Scutari ; 
and at five o'clock we were on board the North Star, having 
ppent a day which is ever to be remembered by us with pleasure 
in future life. 

We now prepared for our departure, and Mr. Giacombo, our 
kind and indefatigable agent, was busy with us putting our sup- 
plies on board. At six o'clock we took leave of Mr. and Mrs. 
Brown, to whose friendly attentions we were much indebted 
during our short stay. 

We left Constantinople August 26, at eight o'clock p. m., with 
the finest weather. 

In the Sea of Marmora we passed Mr. Leyland's yacht, which 
sailed forty hours before us. Our back course lay to the north 
of Tenedos, and we steered between that island and Lemnos, and 
made for the Doro Straits, leaving St. Estraite and Skiros to 
the northward. Passing the Sea of Candi, we steered between 
Zea and Macronisi, and directed our course for St. Angelo and 
Matapan. Never, perhaps, was weather more propitious than 
we now had it, and our progress was rapid. On the 28th, we 
observed divine service. On the 29th, at two p. m., we passed 
Cape Passaro and the rocky shore of Sicily near Cape Scalambra, 
a few villages dotting the coast. The 30th, we made the island 
of Pantellaria, known to the ancients as Cossyra ; it is about 
thirty miles in circumference, and is of volcanic origin. Passing 
to the north of this island, we steered up to Cape Bon, on the 
coast of Africa ; and here the weather became too intensely hot 
for comfort, and coats and neckcloths were oppressive. 

Heading north and by west for Cape Bianco, we thence 



ROCK OF GIBRALTAR. 311 

steamed wester.y, and at noon on 31st we were off Cape Mavera 
light, having passed the island of Galita, and made a west course 
along the coast of Algiers, which we passed September 1st, at 
noon, the weather hazy, so that we only saw the outline of the 
shore. At twelve o'clock, on the 2d, we were just north of the 
small island or rock of Alboran, and in the evening there came 
up a terrible thunder-storm, accompanied by a gale from the 
westward. Our ship behaved well ; but it was decidedly a rough 
night, and the breeze came on us charged with the cold air of the 
7^1 1 antic, and felt very different from the atmosphere we had 
enjoyed for the past month. We lay off the harbor of Gibraltar 
at half-past twelve, thus performing our voyage from Constanti- 
nople to the Rock in seven days ; a thing which has never 
before occurred, — yet we only used two boilers, and had the 
power to have made the passage in five and a half. The distance 
was one thousand eight hundred and forty miles. 

All ships coming from the Levant are compelled to undergo a 
quarantine. We were kindly limited to one day, and during 
that time suffered to commence coaling. We had abundant 
opportunity, during this quiet time, to notice the position of the 
celebrated town and its circumjacent country. 

At first sight, we can hardly believe that the rock is connected 
with the main land ; but, on inspection, there is seen a long, low, 
candy bar, which unites it to Spain, and is well known as the 
leutral ground. The rock is two and three-quarter miles in 
length, and about three-quarters of a mile wide. The side 
towards the Mediterranean is almost perpendicular, and so is the 
north side. The side towards the harbor has a very gentle 
ascent from the water, and then at once becomes precipitous. 
At the south end of the rock are two different planes of the 
formation; the upper one is called Windmill Hill; the most 
elevated spot above these planes is called O'Hara, after the gen- 
eral of that name. It is above the lower plane that the 44th 
regiment is in barracks. The telegraph station is, I think, very 



312 GIBRALTAR. 

nearly at the middle of the rock. It is remarkable that though 
the side is so inclined, and almost precipitous, yet the water 
rarely reaches the town, even after violent rains. The mountain 
is full of caverns, and from these the water is discharged by 
unknown caverns into the sea. From the rock there is a pros- 
pect which includes four kingdoms; — in Europe, Spain; in 
Africa, Morocco, Fez and Barbary. 

The scenery of the bay is delightful, and St. Roque stands on 
a hill at the foot of a mountain range which stretches away 
north and west. Further east are the lofty mountains of the 
Sierra de Ronda. West of the rock, and at the head of the 
bay, is the charming white-looking town of Algeciras. This was 
for a long time the Moorish key to the possession of Spain, but 
it was captured by Alonzo XI., in 1344, after a protracted siege 
of nearly two years. It is a neat town, with about fifteen thou- 
sand inhabitants, and there is frequent intercourse between it 
and Gibraltar, and boats are continually crossing the bay, — a 
distance of less than ten miles. 

Looking off from the bay, there are the lofty mountains of 
Barbary, which bear such a marked resemblance to Gibraltar 
that it has been supposed that a separation has been produced by 
some great convulsion of nature in former ages. This theory 
aas been supported by the circumstance that monkeys are found 
in great numbers upon the rock, and in no other part of Europe. 
There, too, as we look away at x\frica, is the island fortress of 
Ceuta, which belongs to Spain, and where some of the Cuban 
prisoners are still confined. On entering the harbor, we found 
that our expected supply of coals from Wales had arrived in 
three Bristol schooners. Mr. Sprague, the United States consul, 
came to us, and, in the kindest possible manner, profi'ered his 
services, and placed his mansion at our disposal. During the 
dirty operation of coaling, most of our party took up quarters 
at the Club-house. 

September 4 was a charming day, and, it being the Sabbath, I 



REV. W. H. BID WELL — MARKETS. 313 

felt desirous to visit the Methodist chapel, of which a beloved 
friend, fellow-townsman, and fellow-collegian, had once been 
pastor, and fell at his post, a victim to the yellow fever, in the 
year 1828. We made a little party, and found the chapel. It 
U a very neat edifice, and the officiating clergyman delivered an 
excellent sermon. The principal part of the audience was com- 
posed of soldiers, who were accompanied by' their officers, and 
appeared very devout and attentive, — as they might be, while 
listening to such admirable instruction. I had the melancholy 
pleasure of standing by the marble mural tablet which records 
the faithful services and the early death of the Rev. William 
Barber. On returning to the hotel, I enjoyed the unexpected 
pleasure of again meeting with my valued friend the Rev. Mr. 
Bidwell, who had parted from us in Paris on his tour through 
France and Spain, which he spoke of as fatiguing; and very evi- 
dently he had toiled hard and sufi'ered much in crossing the 
Pyrenees. He was to depart that evening for Cadiz, by the 
steamer ; and since my return I have read with great interest 
the capital letters which he has furnished to the I{ew York 
Evangelist, — a paper owned by him, and conducted in a man- 
ner which renders it a welcome visitor in every house it enters. 

Monday was a busy day, and I made a general survey of the 
place. The population of Gibraltar, inclusive of the garrison, is 
more than twenty thousand. The landing is on a good dock, 
outside the gates ; and here is a capital fish and fruit market, in 
which we made daily observations. Every description of fruit 
was in profusion and perfection. Peaches, plums, grapes, lem- 
ons and pomegranates, were all fine, but no such nectarines as we 
found at Malta, and which were very superior to any I have ever 
seen in England, France, or in the United States. 

On passing the gates, where the custom-house officers were 
very polite, we came into a square, where the soldiers were quar- 
tered in considerable numbers ; and their fine, athletic figures, 
healthy appearance and neat uniform, presented quite a con- 



314 MAIN STREET — ALAMEDA. 

trast to the Turkish soldiery. We now came into the main street, 
which is long and rather narrow, and full of shops. Many of 
these are well supplied. This is a free port, and goods are con- 
sequently quite reasonable. To the left of the rock, and above 
the town, stand the remains of an old Moorish castle, built in 
the eighth century, and which is supposed to be the earliest trace 
of occupancy now left in Gibraltar. Far to the right, and higher, 
stands the signal-post, from which vessels on approach are 
reported to the town. Above the densely-built town are sta- 
tioned the barracks ; and there is the governor's house, with its 
fine garden, and just below lies the Alameda. What a strange 
medley of characters the streets present ! Here are white-tur- 
baned, white-trousered and petticoated Moors ; keen-bargaining, 
black-eyed Jews ; swarthy Spaniards ; bright-tartaned Highland- 
ers ; gayly-dressed English officers, beautiful women in mantillas, 
and red-coated soldiers, at every step. The streets are all alive 
with a busy, bustling population. 

Our party are watched closely by the shop-keepers, and a 
good-looking Jew has caught the ladies; we fill his shop, and 
even crowd his back-room. The shelves and counters are loaded 
with Spanish and Moorish curiosities. Andalusian scarfs, em- 
broidered table-covers, Malaga figures, costumes, cushions, slip- 
pers, vases, coral, silks, old laces, china, and I know not what 
else, were the sore temptations. One thing I do know, that 
before the ladies left they had well-nigh emptied the store. 

But we had an engagement at the consul's, and the party 
gathered there by appointment. The plan was to see the rock, 
and a number of English officers were at Mr. Sprague's to escort 
the ladies. Mules, donkeys and horses, were in front of the man- 
sion in great force, and on a burning day some thirty persons 
made the ascent. 

Indisposition hindered me from going, but I give the narrative 
as it was given me, on the return of the pilgrim band. The offi- 
cers were Messrs. Brown, Higgins, Turner, Thornhill, and others 



EXCURSION TO THE TOP OF THE ROCK. 315 

whose names I cannot now recall. The cavalcade I watched as 
it slowly wound up the hill, and I last saw the party on the 
winding ascent leading to the excavations, and then retraced 
my steps. 

The party was greatly delighted with the galleries cut in 
the rock, which are wide enough for mounted cannon to be 
dragged through with ease, and receive light from port-holes cut 
in the sides, through which the murderous cannon are pointed. 
Leaving the mules and horses to join them at the summit, the 
ladies and gentlemen ascended a spiral staircase, which led them 
to St. George's Hall, which is a large, circular apartment, with a 
vaulted stone roof; the sides and flooring are of the solid rock, 
and from this apartment several large cannon shoot out of the 
embrasures. Stepping upon one of them, our friends looked 
down from this dizzy elevation upon the beach and harbor, and 
obtained a noble view of the adjacent country. The town lay 
beneath them as an extended map, and every house and garden 
was clearly defined. The African coast appeared in all its 
beauty, and the vast Abyla lifted its dark form against the bright 
back-ground of a tropical sky. 

After a protracted enjoyment of this exquisite prospect, the 
march was resumed, until the signal station was reached ; and 
here, through the thoughtful attention of the officers, a pleasant 
lunch had been provided. Here the horses and other animals 
were waiting, and again put into requisition ; and a circuitous 
path led to St. Michael's Cave, the entrance to which is through 
a fissure in the side of the rock^ barricaded with boards. This 
is a large and lofty circular room ; from the roof immense sta- 
lactites are hanging, which reflected the light shining from the 
pine-knot torches. The ground was very damp, and even wet. 
On the mountain sides are vast numbers of goats, which browse 
the scanty herbage. The eastern side, which is inaccessible from 
its perpendicularity, is the safe home of the monkey population, 
who are in quiet possession of their fastnesses, and are never 
26 



316 DESCENT FROM THE ROCK — MR. SPRAGUE. 

permitted to receive molestation. During the prevalence of a 
Levanter, or north-east wind, thej occasionally appear upon the 
rock. The party was gratified by observing one whose large size 
and grizzled head denoted him as a patriarch of his tribe. 

The path down the mountain was delightful. The most charm- 
ing scenery discovered itself at every turning of the serpentine 
pathway, in which were some places so narrow as to aflford no 
more than necessary foothold for a single horse, and a false step 
of the animal would have involved the certain death of its rider. 
The return was through the charming Alameda, after passing the 
pleasant residence and gardens of the governor, and the Jews' 
burying-ground. 

On reaching the town, we all met, at four o'clock, at Mr. 
Sprague's, where he had prepared an elegant dinner. The table 
was covered with every luxury that the climate furnishes. The 
game and fruits were in rich profusion, and the dessert was prin 
cipally furnished from his country house and gardens. The hos- 
pitalities of this day are inscribed upon our memories. Mr. 
Sprague is a gentleman of the most polished address, resides in 
a noble mansion, and is the worthy successor of his honored 
father in an office which he long held to the credit of his coun- 
try. The mother of Mr. Sprague did the honors of the table 
with great dignity, and our ladies probably enjoyed the day as 
much as any they had passed upon the excursion. Mrs. 
Sprague's daughters were in Boston, on a visit to a sister who 
resides there. Mr. and Mrs. Vanderbilt earnestly pressed Mrs. 
Sprague to join the party in our yacht, and allow her children 
the surprise of a visit ; but she had never crossed the ocean, and 
feared to make the voyage. 

The annals of the Rock afford interesting passages in relation 
to this place, so long in possession of the Moors. Wrested from 
them by conquest, it remained in the hands of Spain, in spite of 
various attempts on the part of the Moors to regain this strong- 



HISTORIC NOTICE — SMUGGLING. 817 

hold. The following dates may be useful as affording a key to 
the history of the renowned fortress. 

Gebal Tarik, the Berber chief, landed here 711. It was taken 
from the Moors 1309. Recaptured by the Moors 1333. Taken 
by Guzman, a Spaniard, 1462, and became part of the Spanish 
crown 1502. Fortified by Charles V. 1552. Captured by the 
English, under Admiral Eooke, 1704. Stood a siege against 
France 1783, and was defended by Eliott. The force of this 
garrison is about one thousand pieces of cannon, and the fortress 
in siege would require ten or twelve thousand men. At present 
the garrison is about four thousand five hundred men. 

A great deal of smuggling goes on here, by men who carry 
articles into Spain. This morning, September 6, a sad occur- 
rence took place; at early daylight one man was found dead 
and two others mortally wounded, on the sandy bar known as the 
neutral ground. They had been pursued by the Spanish revenue 
force, and shot whilst attempting to escape. They were brought 
into the town, but the wounded men were regarded as beyond 
cure. These smugglers are known as " rock scorpions," — per- 
sons who live by a contraband trade, and by their wits. 

The kindness and attention of the British officers was constant 
during our entire stay in Gibraltar, and Mr. Vanderbilt and his 
friends received invitations from the gentlemen of the various 
regiments in the garrison to dinners. The regiments stationed 
here, and whose officers all visited the yacht and urged our 
partaking of their hospitalities, were the 92nd, 44th, loth, oOth 
and 35th. 

On Wednesday, 7th, several of the officers of the 44th regi- 
ment of infantry, and of the E,oyal Artillery, proposed to the 
ladies and gentlemen an excursion on horseback to the Cork 
woods, a place famous for picnics, and situated a few miles 
within the Spanish dominions. From a lady who made one of 
the party I received the following account of the jaunt, and 
thankfully make use of her kind communication. The events 



318 A PICNIC IN TUE CORK WOODS. 

of the jaunt I heard most graphically described the next evening 
by several of the English gentlemen, and one bore the marks of 
his accident. 

" Gibraltar, Sept. 8, 1853. 

" My dear Doctor Choules : According to promise, I pro- 
ceed to give you a brief account of a most delightful picnic to 
the Cork wood groves, in the vicinity of Gibraltar, given us by 
several of the officers of H. B. M.'s 44th regiment, and of the 
Royal Artillery. The invitation was kindly extended to all our 
party (as you are aware), but from indisposition, and dread of 
the long ride on horseback, several declined. At ten o'clock of 
a rather cloudy morning, we were equipped in our travelling- 
dresses, and mounted on very tolerable horses. I was more fortu- 
nate than the rest ; Mr. H., of the artillery, having insisted 
upon my riding one of his horses, a very beautiful animal, which 
had won the races at Seville not long previous. I gladly availed 
myself of his kind offer, I can assure you, and off we started, in 
great spirits. We soon reached the neutral ground, dividing 
Spain from Gibraltar, and it certainly looks as if it had no owner. 
It is quite barren, with scarcely a habitation upon it, about a 
mile in length, and half a mile in width. The outposts, only a 
few rods apart, soon told us we were in her Spanish majesty's 
dominions. We passed a few miserable-looking houses, the 
inhabitants eying us rather suspiciously, as they do not like the 
English officers to enter their territory. 

" In a short time we arrived at San Roque, a quiet little town, 
about two leagues distant from Gibraltar. It is to this town that 
the newly-married couples of Gibraltar generally repair to spend 
their honeymoon. Here we stopped a few minutes for refresh- 
ment, and to readjust our dresses. San Roque, like other Span- 
ish towns, has an amphitheatre for bull-fights, and an Alameda, 
or public shady walk. Our way now lay through a wild coun- 
try, the only road a foot-path, over which we had to pass in 
Indian file. I was told by Capt B. that a British oflicer had 



A PICNIC IN THE CORK WOODS. 319 

been attacked and robbed, recently, in jDassing over this very 
ground. . This in no way excited our fears, our escort being gal- 
lant and powerful. We were obliged to ford several small 
streams, and in crossing one Mr. L.'s horse very coolly laid 
down and took a refreshing roll in the water, greatly to his 
discomfiture. 

" We soon came in view of the cork-trees. They are a wide- 
spread, shady tree; the foliage is very thick, and of a dark 
green. There is nothing particularly remarkable about the tree, 
except the bark, or cork, which covers the trunk to the depth of 
six inches. We rode through the wood for about two miles, 
until we reached a very humble country inn, where the only 
accommodation found was an empty barn, from which was sepa- 
rated, at one end, an old wine-shop. We tasted some of the 
wine, but found it disagreeable. We expected that the oflGi- 
<;ers' ' tiger,' whom they had sent with lunch, would be here 
awaiting our arrival. In about half an hour he made his 
appearance, having had great difl&culty in crossing the Spanish 
line. We dismounted, and, after selecting a large tree, the ladies 
reclined under its shade, while the gentlemen provided our 
repast. A large pine table was brought, also a few rustic 
chairs, and we were soon engaged doing ample justice to the 
liberal entertainment set out for us. The chicken salad was 
made by an artist ; and, as we had been well appetized by our 
long ride, the viands and wines were very grateful to our hungry 
palates. 

"We were disappointed with the appearance of the cork groves ; 
they were not so picturesque as we had expected. The tree is 
large and beautiful, but the forest, covering a vast plain, is 
monotonous. After passing a couple of hours agreeably enliv- 
ened by social chat, and having cut off some pieces of cork as 
reminiscences, we set out on our return, which proved to be full 
of adventures. As we were going along at a smart canter, a 
herd of cattle rushed across our path. Mr. T., a young artillery 
26^ 



320 A PICNIC IN THE CORK WOODS. 

officer, was so intent following one of the ladies, that he did 
not porceive the interruption until he came in full contact 
with a large bull, causing him to be thrown with great violence. 
Although a good deal stunned, he was happily not much hurt. 
His horse, finding himself at liberty, started ofi", and joined a 
drove of young horses, which were running about wild. Then 
began an earnest chase after the runaway. It was only after a 
hard pursuit of two hours that he was captured. All the gen- 
tlemen joined the chase, save one or two who remained with the 
ladies. In leaping a ditch, one of the hunters was thrown, 
escaping with a bruise on his lip. Another of the party, Mr. S., 
in crossing a farm, was denied passage by the peasants, who 
seized hold of his bridle, and threatened violence ; but Mr. S. 
nothing daunted, laid about right and left with a heavy riding- 
whip, and forced his way through. We then made a fresh start, 
and, as it was getting late, took a short cut across the sandy beach 
at the head of the Bay of Algeciras. We were galloping away 

finely, when suddenly K 's horse, completely blown, stopped 

short, and we had to wait a while until it recovered itself. 

"We now came in sight of the mountain called the 'Queen of 
Spain's Chair,' facing Gibraltar and the bay. It is said that 
during the celebrated siege of Gibraltar, by the Spaniards, 
towards the end of the last century, the Queen of Spain, exas- 
perated at its prolonged and successful resistance, seated herself 
on this mountain, and vowed she would not leave her chair until 
she saw the Spanish flag waving over the Rock of Gibraltar. 
This coming to the ears of Governor Eliott, the gallant veteran 
in command, he determined to relieve her from the personal 
inconvenience to which her rash vow had subjected her, and 
hoisted the Spanish flag on the battlements, and the English 
beneath. We reentered the world-famed fortress of Gibraltar 
just before gun-fire, having ridden twenty-five miles. Independ- 
ently of the novel incidents of our excursion, we were charmed 
with the gentlemanly demeanor and courtesy of our entertainers, 



^' CHARLEY." 321 

and we shall long look back with pleasure to their picnic to tho 
Cork woods Df Spain. S T ." 

In our shi)pping expeditions we found ourselves in a curiosity 
store, kept by a Moor, who is known as " Charley." He is the 
handsomest black man I ever saw. His eyes are wondrously 
fine, but his face has been tattooed in his early youth, when he 
was a slave in Barbary. Charley has been to Timbuctoo, has 
been a great traveller, speaks several languages, and has managed 
to accumulate some considerable cash. This man is, in my esti- 
mation, " the character " of the town. His costume is thoroughly 
Turkish, or, more correctly, Moorish; parts of his dress very 
costly. In his shop we made many a pleasant lounge, and ate his 
dates, which he always brought out. I think that our acquaint- 
ance was mutually agreeable; for certainly Charley, having 
found favor with our ladies, made extensive sales to all our 
party, and I fancy at leaving he must have had possession of 
several hundreds of dollars. His card of business is as follows : 

HAGGE SAID GUESTJS, 
DEALER IN 
MOORISH CURIOSITIES, ETC. ETC. ETC., 

No. 7 Main-street, 

GIBRALTAR. 

A shrewder salesman than " Charley " is not often found. I 
am writing from an inkstand which I purchased from him, and 
he said, " 0, you will wish you had bought a dozen when you 
get nome ! " Well, Charley, you were right there; for my 
MooTish inkstand, with its castellated sides, is a general favorite, 
and nearly every one covets it ; but I shall keep it in remem- 
brance of as clever a darkey as I know. But he was far too 
clever to let me off with an inkstand, and sundry other memorials 
have I to show of our transactions in trade. I wanted some 



322 VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR — BAND. 

large vases. " Well,", said Charley, " what you want such big 
things; you can't car them a-ship and not break." And he 
strongly urged smaller matters ; but I was set on ray idols, — a 
pair of large vases, made in Barbary. Charley was wrong ; the 
big things reached home in safety, and Charley, like his prophet, 
was a false one. I commend all travellers to the Rock to put 
themselves at once into commercial intercourse with Hagge Said 
Guesus ; and I do not think that there is one of the North Star 
party who would not like to shake hands again with " Charley." 
I had nearly forgot to say that Charley always addresses the 
ladies as " my dear; " and the good-humored expression which is 
enthroned on his handsome round visage is only clouded when 
a customer objects to his prices, which he prides himself upon 
never abating. 

Mr. and Mrs. Yanderbilt and Mrs. Cross paid a visit to his 
excellency the Governor, and were very courteously received, 
and returned pleased with their call. 

On Thursday evening, Mr. Clark, Major Labau and I, accepted 
an invitation to dine with the officers of the 44th at their quar- 
ters upon the Rock. At six o'clock we repaired to the Club- 
house, where we were to meet our kind friends, who would take 
charge of us. At sundown we had the pleasure to listen to the 
noble band which plays every evening in the square, and never 
did music sound more sweetly than that calm night. Having 
ordered our boatmen to meet us at the Ragged Staff, as the town 
gates would be closed on our return, we at a little past seven 
got into the carriage and ascended the rock, which is a slow 
process, but every winding turn showing us new beauties, and at 
eight we reached the comfortable quarters of the regimental 
mess. A more superb look-out was never seen than this build- 
ing affords. 

The accommodations are very fine, and all that gentlemen can 
desire. At a little past eight we were summoned to the dining- 
»JOom, and a more magnificent one is not easily found. It was a 



DINNER WITH THE FOKTY-FOUKTH REGIMENT. 323 

company night, of which there are two every week. There 
were twenty-two or twenty-four officers at table, all in uniform. 
The table was loaded with massive plate, belonging to the regi- 
ment, which is distinguished for the elegance of its equipage. 

Our dinner was one of the best I ever met out of Paris ; 
indeed, it was thoroughly Parisian, as the arrangements of the 
mess are under the supervision of an artist from the French 
capital. The Epergnes were very large, and bear the name of 
the regiment ; and the immense candelabra and other adornments 
rendered it a brilliant scene. The band played during the eve- 
ning, and I deeply regret that I cannot lay my hand upon the 
musical programme with which we were provided. The evening 
was passed in pleasant interchange of views and opinions upon 
national and local matters, and the Russian and Turkish diffi- 
culties came in for a share of our conversation. The gentlemen 
here, as in Malta, strongly sympathize with the Sultan. A more 
agreeable party I never met than surrounded that table ; every 
one seemed happy to meet us as Americans, and there was a 
general sentiment expressed of strong aversion to the tone of the 
articles which appear in one of the leading London papers, and 
which most surely are not the just exponents of English opinion 
and feeling towards the United States. ' 

As the gates are closed at ten for the night, we could only 
leave the rock at the Ragged Staff gate, and that by the favor of 
the powers that command. Having the staff in their own hands, 
and the charge of the carriages which were to convey us to the 
shore, our hospitable friends kept us late. I am quite sure that 
the kind speeches of the generous, high-minded officers of the 
44th, and th'/r friends of other regiments, will long be remem- 
bered by eac^i of their American guests. I shall never hear the 
Rock of Gibraltar spoken of without thinking of the 44th 
regiment, and our friends Brown, Higgins, Deering, Thornhill, 
and others whose faces I can recall much easier than their names. 
These gentlemen insisted upon escorting us down to the shore, 



324 MR. ROBERTS — DEPARTURE FROM GIBRALTAR. 

and some fifteen of them got in and on our two carriages, ana 
the descent of the Rock of Gibraltar by a bright moonlight, and 
the hearty English huzzas with which they took leave of us, are 
never to be forgotten by either of their guests. 

A charming row of two miles brought us to the yacht, and 
some amusing events which there transpired deeply convinced us 
that it is never a wise thing to be in " a hurry." 

Among those whose politeness I feel bound to record I will 
mention Mr. Roberts, who keeps a fine chemist's store, where 
every drug and chemical may be procured in as much perfection 
as in London or Paris. Mr. Roberts, with hundreds of the 
inhabitants of the Rock, visited the yacht ; and when he came 
off to us the day we sailed, he politely brought a box of ice, 
which for a day or two proved exceedingly comfortable and 
refreshing. Our own stock had been exhausted, and the good 
people at the only port in the Mediterranean where it could be 
obtained asked the moderate price of one hundred and twenty 
dollars per ton. Our ice procured at St. Petersburg lasted us 
into the Mediterranean, but soon wasted in that region. 

Here we had to take leave of our friends and fellow- voyagers 
Mr. and Mrs. Daniel B. Allen. Mrs. Allen came on board the 
yacht from a sick bed, and in a condition of extreme debility. 
The voyage proved eminently serviceable, and now, in much im- 
proved health, she leaves us. Our friends took a steamer to 
Cadiz, and proposed to pass a year in Europe. They carried with 
them the best wishes of all our company, and sorry were we to 
lose the companionship of those who ever looked upon the 
bright side of each passing event. 

On leaving the harbor we fired a salute, which was replied to 
by th' guns of the fortress. 



CHAPTER XXIII, 

LEAVE GIBRALTAR TANGIER SAIL FOR MADEIRA PORTO SANTO BLA. 

DEIR.1 rUNCHAL, AND ITS ASPECT LANDING IN THE SURF IIISTORIO 

NOTICE LEGEND OF MACHIM OBSERVATIONS ON FUNCHAL CATHOLIC 

INTOLERANCE BIANNERS OF PEOPLE EXCURSION TO THE CHURCH OP 

OUR LADY OF THE MOUNT SCENERY A MIRACLE MR. GEORGE 

BROWN BEGGARS ARTICLES FOR SALE YATES' HOTEL HIS STUDY 

CLIMATE SIR JAMES CLARK AND LEIGH HUNT POPULATION 

BOARDING-HOUSES MODES OF TRAVEL SHOPS. — THE BOY-BEGGARS 

BLAST OF THE VINEYARDS THE VINE WINES OF THE ISLAND FRUITS 

AND VEGETABLES — TREES AND FLO"\YERS BIRDS FISH DEPARTURE. 

September 9th, we left Gibraltar on a fine morning, at about 
eleven o'clock, and, with a brisk breeze, stood over for Tangier, 
We soon made the headland of Cape Spartel, and had a glorious 
view of the straits. This is the north-west point of Africa 
and of Morocco, and forms the south-western boundary of the 
Straits of Gibraltar. On its summit we observed an old tower, 
which appeared in ruins. The sea was rolling into the Bay of 
Tangier, with a strong northerly wind, and it was soon very clear 
that we were to be deprived of the pleasure which we had an- 
ticipated in landing on the continent of Africa. The surf was 
rolling in white sheets of foam, and, as a landing could only be 
effected by the use of the surf-boats from the shore, we at once 
felt that it was unwise to hazard the inconvenience for the grati- 
fication of an hour. We were about one mile from the shore, 
and our consul's flag was at once exhibited from his house-top. 
This gentleman had expressed to us at Gibraltar his earnest hope 
that we would show our yacht to the Moors. 

The town makes a fine appearance, as the buildings are all 
white. . It stands in a small snace, and within a line of old 



326 TANGIER — PORTO SANTO — DESERTAS. 

Moorish fortified walls ; the buildings come down very close to 
the shore. Not a vessel was in the little bay, which is ex :?c^l- 
ingly exposed to the north-west winds. Tangier is an old place, 
and when won by the Romans, under Sertorius, was known as 
Tingris. Saracens, Moors, Portuguese and English, have all by 
turn claimed possession of this spot. Charles II. of England 
received it as part of the portion of his wife, Catherine of Por- 
tugal. It was abandoned in 1684 by the British. The present 
population is about seven thousand five hundred, of whom one- 
third are Jews. It carries on extensive trade with Gibraltar in 
cattle, poultry, &c. Not often have I seen a finer outline of 
coast than that which encircles this little town. A noble range 
of hills extends off to the east and south, and, as far as we could 
see, the most luxuriant growth of trees. Palms and aloes were 
abundant, and the cultivation looked as though it were of a high 
order. Certainly a sail along this part of Africa is most de- 
lightful, and it is hard to believe that such scenes of beauty are 
inhabited by barbarous Arabs, who are ever prowling for their 
prey. 

We now, at half-past two p. m., made our course direct for the 
island of Madeira. In the evening the breeze freshened, and all 
night and throughout Saturday we had good headway. On the 
evening of the 11th, at six, we made the island of Porto Santo, 
and lay to under its lee, waiting for daylight to enter the road- 
stead of Funchal. This island presents a remarkable appear- 
ance, and is seen at a great distance. Three large hummocks 
enable the mariner to distinguish it from Madeira. The moun- 
tainous heights appear barren, and everything, as far as we could 
see, looked unpromising. The population is about one thousand 
two hundred. 

In the early dawn of day we were passing north of the 
Desertas, a group of rocky islands which are not inhabited, and 
only visited by a few fishermen, who have huts here for occa- 
sional use. One rock, called the Pyramid, bears a very strong 



*s«^/- 



•^ih-' "i.^ 'i ••>•'"' i|i> 




FUNCHAL AND ITS ASPECT. 829 

resemblance to a ship with her sails spread. The Table Kock is 
a flat island, and takes its name from its formation. The passage 
between the Desertas and Madeira is about eight miles wide, and 
we lay pretty close to the island, which rose up with its lofty 
mountain range before us, in the bright morning light. Madeira 
opened to our view as a long range of rocky hills, dotted with 
white houses, church-towers, villas, trees planted in rows, and 
looking like orchards. As we passed along, the scenery became 
exquisitely beautiful. Precipitous cliflFs, deep ravines and beds 
of mountain torrents, are clearly discernible; and gorges cut 
out as by the convulsions of nature, between vast mountains, 
extending from the sea up to the summits of the cliffs, till hidden 
from sight by the clouds resting on the. peaks of the range, 
present a most majestic landscape. 

Funchal now opened upon our gaze in all its beauty. This 
famoua bay, which hardly, however, comes up to this geographi- 
cal apptllation, begins to recede from the Cape Garajao at the 
east, a distance of nearly three miles, and then runs out more 
boldly towards Ponta da Cruz, a little west of Funchal. The 
entire indentation is, I think, less than a mile. From Garajao 
to Fort St. Jago, wliich stands as an eastern boundary to the 
town, the coast is very bold, and has but one mountain gorge, at 
the foot of which stand the quarantine buildings. 

At Fort St. Jago a rough shingle beach begins, which fronts 
the entire town, and extends to the western extremity of Funchal, 
known as the Ribeira de Sao Paulo, and then on to the narrow 
point called the Pontinha and the Loo-Rock ; these are both sur- 
mounted with forts, and are striking features from the vessels in 
the bay. Loo-Rock stands out more than one hundred yards 
from the line of the coast. Not far from this, and bordering on 
the town, are the Portuguese cemetery and a fine plantation of 
cypress trees. The town lies directly on the water line, and 
ascends the eminence, which extends to a high mountainous 
range behind it, and is at least three thousand five hundred feet 
27 



330 LANDING IN SURF — HISTORIC NOTICE. 

high. I am sure that no artist has ever done justice to the 
scenery of this island. It reminds me of Gay Head, on Mar- 
tha's Vineyard ; and has as rich variety of soil as that remarkable 
headland, mingling black, yellow, red and white, with the living 
green of the luxuriant foliage, under the perpetually shifting 
shadows of the clouds. 

Our vessel was soon surrounded by a fleet of boats from the 
shore. The health-officer came off to us, and, taking our papers, 
soon returned, giving us permission to land. We then landed, 
and on gaining the shore had to have our boats drawn up 
through the surf, which breaks strongly on the strand. This is 
sometimes quite an undertaking. As soon as the boat nears the 
shore it is turned stern end to the beach, and the oarsmen, with 
their pantaloons tucked up, seize the opportunity when a large 
wave rolls up to back the boat upon its force, till it touches the 
beach ; they then jump out, and pull the boat and passengers up 
high and dry. We at once repaired to the hotel kept by Mr. Yates. 
Among our visitors from the town, before we landed, were Mr. 
Borden and Mr. George Brown, both of whom rendered us kind 
and friendly attentions upon shore during our entire stay upon 
the island. 

Before I record our movements, I would here say a little about 
the history of this interesting place. It seems probable that in 
the days of Augustus Cajsar something was known of the exist- 
ence of these islands. Pliny unquestionably speaks of these 
groups, and adds that they were " discovered by Juba." After 
the decline and fall of Carthage, it is certain that all intercourse 
with the Atlantic islands was cut off. In 1419 the Prince 
Henry, son of John, King of Portugal, sent out ships to double 
Cape Bojador, and the captains were driven so far from s!iore, 
that they fell in with an island, which they called Porto Santo. 
Henry sent out a colony to this island, and the inhabitants soon 
noticed a dark spot still westward, and Zarco, the commander of 
one of Henry's ships, sailing west, discovered an island, 1420, to 



HISTORY OF MACniM. 331 

which he gave the name of Madeira, because it wan covered with 
trees. 

The Portuguese determined to colonize the island, and made 
Zarco, and his fellow-navigator Teixeira, captains of the place. 
Zarco ruled forty-seven years, and is buried in St. Clara con- 
vent. In 1508 Funchal was made a city. In 1580 Madeira 
passed into the hands of Spain, and continued in her possession 
until 1640. From 1801 until 1807 it was under English pro- 
tection. In 1847 a popular effort was made, but the place was 
restored to Portugal, and is still in her power. 

The Spaniards say that Columbus was once a resident on this 
island. It is certain that his wife was the daughter of Pestrello, 
one of the discoverers of Porto Santo. A romantic story is also 
told of the re-discovery of Madeira. This narrative, by Alcafor- 
ado, was translated into French in 1671, and was printed in 
Paris. 

HISTORY OF MACIIIM. 

An Englishman of obscure birth, named Robert Machim, who 
lived in the reign of Edward III., fell in love with Anna d'Arfet, 
a beautiful damsel of noble family. Her father, incensed at his 
presumption, obtained the imprisonment of the lover, and mar- 
ried his daughter to a more illustrious suitor. The bridegroom, 
however, having left his castle, near Bristol, to attend the king 
in his wars, Machim, when released, procured access to Anna, 
and persuaded her to escape with him to France. They sailed, 
without a pilot, for the coast of Bretagne ; but, a storm arising, 
lost their reckoning, and, after running ten days before the gale, 
at length discovered the coast of Madeira, and landed, in 1346, 
in a bay, afterwards named Machico, from him. A storm drove 
Machim's vessel from its anchorage, leaving those who had landed 
from it in such distress, that the lady died of grief. Machim, 
refusing all food, did not long survive her, and was buried in the 
same grave. The rest, having ornamented the tomb with a large 



332 FUNCHAL — CATHOLIC INTOLERANCE. 

wooden cross, and placed near it an inscription which Machim 
had prepared, requesting the first Christians who might read it to 
raise a chapel on the spot, took to their boat, and, being carried 
to the coast of Barbary, were made captives by the Moors. While 
in captivity they related their adventures and described the 
position of Madeira to a fellow-captive, who communicated the 
facts to a Spanish pilot, called Morales, in the employment of 
Gon^alves Zarco. Antonio Galvano, in his account of Portu- 
guese discoveries, relates that this Machim, after Anna's death, 
left the island in a boat, and it was picked up on the coast of 
Africa, by the Moors, and sent as a curiosity to Henry III., 
King of Castile. 

Funchal is built in an irregular manner, and its streets are 
laid with a pavement of small stones, of the size of an egg. The 
stones are basalt, and are furnished by the beach. The streets 
are narrow, and the rich and poor seem to live in harmonious 
contiguity. Most of the dwellings have balconies. In a large 
number of instances I found the ground floor of the houses used 
as wine-cellars. The people deserve much credit for the great 
cleanliness of their streets. Kivers, or, more properly speaking, 
mountain-torrents, at least three pass through Funchal, and have 
in their autumnal swell frequently devastated the place; but 
their beds and channels are now dammed up by stupendous walla 
These channels were perfectly dry when we were here. I have 
never met with such hosts of beggars as at this place. Men, 
women and children, assail you. The principal street is called 
the Carreira, at the end of which is the English chapel. It is a 
plain building, having no very striking exterior appearance of a 
church ; but this arises from Portuguese intolerance. Catholics 
prate about their rights and liberties in England and America, 
where they have perfect liberty to observe their religious ser- 
vices, but not an atom of this will they afford to Protestants in 
any land on which they have power and entire foothold. 

It is about time for Endand and the United States to demand 



MANNERS AND COSTUMES OF THE PEASANTS. 333 

from Catholic countries the liberty of worship for their citizens 
abroad. Will Americans ever learn that Popery is an unchange- 
able system, and that wherever it has power there it yerseciUes 1 
Our Catholic bishops must laugh at the facility with which they 
delude our statesmen and our ^citizens by talking about liberty, 
republicanism, and other matters which they abhor, and would 
exterminate from the face of the earth. 

The most agreeable walks in the town are the Praga Academ- 
ica, and Pra^a da Rainha, on the border of the sea, and the 
Praca da Constitui^ao, which is in front of the cathedral. On 
these promenades there are fine shade-trees, and conveniences for 
the invalid to take repose. These are great places of rendezvous 
in the cool of the evenings, and on gala occasions the band plays 
for the entertainment of the company. I have seldom seen finer- 
looking men and women than the peasantry who come into town 
from the mountains, bearing supplies of produce and fuel in bur- 
dens on their heads. These people struck me as possessing much 
politeness, for men and women in their station of life. I never 
passed them but they made a respectful recognition, and at the 
same time touched or removed the jaunty, funnel-shaped cap, 
with a long peak slightly topping off to the right. The costume 
of the country people is very picturesque. The women commonly 
wear printed calico, and a petticoat of striped linsey-woolsey, 
bound with a gay color. The men wear white linen trousers, 
the shirt adorned at the neck with a gold button, a showy waist- 
coat, generally worn open, or with bright buttons, and a short 
jacket thrown across the left shoulder. The carapu^a is worn by 
men and women. My impressions of the common people at 
Madeira are very favorable ; they are always clean-looking, but 
their reputation is not good for honesty. The state of religion 
is very low, and I am told by residents on the island that the 
priesthood are very indolent and inattentive. Dr. Kalley was 
spoken of with respect, and it was conceded that when residing 
here he effected much good. The rugged roads occasion most 
27* ' 



834 EXCURSION TO THE CHAPEL OF THE MOUNT. 

of the burthens to be conveyed on the shoulders of the peasantry , 
and long journeys of seven and ten miles are made with two 
hundred and even three hundred pounds, up and down ascents 
which really appear well-nigh impassable for an ordinary foot- 
passenger. 4 

On a beautiful afternoon, several ladies and gentlemen formed 
a party at the hotel, and, under the guidance of Mr. Borden, set 
out to visit the Chapel of Our Lady on the Mount, which is a 
most prominent object from the deck of our yacht, standing high 
up in the back-ground of Funchal. The party were supplied with 
horses, and Burroqueros, who are the attendants of the horses and 
mules, and, hanging on at the animal's tail, manage to regulate his 
movements ; they keep up with the horse, in spite of the toilsome 
ascent. The ladies on their return reported to me, for I did not 
go, that their road lay through narrow streets, enclosed on either 
side by high stone walls, rising like parapets, every now and 
then low enough to give peeps of the enclosed gardens and 
scenery beyond. But, to atone for this concealment, on all sides 
of the broken heights, or clinging to and overhanging the walls 
themselves, were large shrubs of heliotrope in full flower, per- 
fuming the air with their fragrant petals ; geraniums of immense 
growth and charming variety ; luxuriant fuchsias, obtaining a 
size and vigor denied them in our less genial clime ; multiflora 
roses, sweet myrtles, huge oleanders, filled with rose-like blos- 
soms ; these and many other floral beauties feasted their senses 
during that pleasant ride. About twenty minutes before arriv- 
ing at the church, they rested at a platform which overhangs a 
vast gorge, and commands the most splendid scenery imaginable. 
Sea and sky lay before and beneath, blended in one heavenly 
azure, clear and blue in the softest summer radiance. Two cone- 
like mountains in the distance at the right uplifted their bluish- 
gray outline against a most exquisite back-ground; and all 
around were wooded heights, deep ravines, and beautiful beds of 
wintry torrents ; pretty little thatched garden-cottages, surrounded 



I 



SCENERY. 335 



by plantain, banana and fig trees ; mountains, around whose sum- 
mits clouds ever lingered, — all were thrown together in one pic- 
turesque combination. As they ascended, the high walls had 
disappeared, giving again occasional glimpses of the surrounding 
country. Large growths of aloes were seen at every turn. The 
Church of Our Lady presents nothing particularly striking, on a 
near survey. It is approached by long flights of stone steps 
from the platform in its front. Like all Popish churches, it has 
several small side chapels. From the platform there is a charm- 
ing view of the bay and its boundaries. 

The descent from the mountain was by another path, equally 
precipitous, but even more beautiful than the one by which the 
ascent had been made, because it commanded a more unob- 
structed view of the beautiful country. Many a lovely little 
nook and precipitous ravine, clothed from the top to the bottom 
of its steep sides with shrubs and verdure, lives a green picture 
in memory ; and that ride to Our Lady's Church of the Mount is 
daguerreotyped upon the tablets of recollection. 

The next day, Mr. Cope, our first officer, joined Mrs. Choules 
and myself in this same excursion. We went up in a carriage 
drawn by a pair of oxen. Mrs. C. was as much delighted as on 
the previous ascent. I think the church stands at eighteen hun- 
dred feet above the town, immediately in its rear. Mr. J. A. Dix, 
in his charming volume of " Winter .in Madeira," says that " the 
ascent is at an angle of not less than fifteen degrees with the 
horizon." Much of the ascent is far more precipitous. I do not 
remember any day in my life in which I have enjoyed the beau- 
ties of nature so keenly. We stopped on our way at a lovely 
villa, and walked through the sweetest garden I ever entered. I 
know not the names of half the trees that were there ; but I shall 
not forget the glorious camellia japonicas, some of which were at 
least eighteen or twenty feet high, and in luxuriant bloom. The 
geraniums were of extraordinary growth and beauty. Here I 
first saw tl.e coffee-tree. An intelligent gardener led us from 



336 MIKACLE — MR. GEO. BROWN. 

one spot of beauty to another, and furnislied me with some seeds 
of various kinds. The prospect of the mountain beyond the 
church is sublime, rising up thousands of feet. This sanctuary 
is very dear to the population ; it not only serves as a landmark, , 
but the devout Catholic sailor, as he comes into port, recognizes • 
it as the church of the saint whose protection has saved him from 
the dangers of the sea, and here he makes his vow to the object 
of his trust. 

It is said that Our Lady of the Mount once vouchsafed a mira- 
cle when the people were threatened with a famine. A pilgrim- 
age to the mount was undertaken by the principal inhabitants 
to invoke the aid of Nossa Senhora, and, lo ! the next morning a 
vessel came into Funchal from Lisbon, laden with corn ! On i 
examination, the clothes of the saint were saturated with sea- 
water, and the sailors declared that during a long calm a white i 
figure arose from the ocean and drew them into the harbor ! 

I spent a very pleasant hour with Mr. George Brown, at his ! 
residence. This gentleman has had a checkered life, and few 
men have passed through more vicissitudes. The history of his ! 
adventures would be an interesting one, and afford a striking ; 
illustration of the benefits to be derived from a cheerful, hopeful ; 
temper. Mr. Brown occupies a large house, and employs him- 
self in the education of some twenty or thirty lads. I found him 
surrounded with the unmistakable proofs of his admiration of 
our country, in which he had passed several years. The walls 
of his parlor have on them the Declaration of Independence, 
Jackson's Proclamation, the likenesses of the Presidents, and 
maps of the United States, and some of the single states. The 
books, too, indicate the bent of his predilections. 

I made minute inquiries as to the studies of his pupils, and 
was gratified to find that he makes American history a very large 
part of the course of instruction. Mr. B. showed me the copy- 
books, compositions, etc., of his lads ; and it was a curious thing 
tc; find that he makes them translate the Declaration of Ameri- 



BEGGARS — ARTICLES FOR SALE. 837 

can Independence into Portuguese. He allowed me to carry 
away a fine copy of it, the production of a youth of fifteen years 
of age. The governor often visits Mr. B., and he regards the 
arrival of United States ships with much interest, as he then 
makes his solitary abode head-quarters for our officers. His card- 
basket showed quite an extensive circle of acquaintance with our 
naval gentlemen. 

With my friend I rambled through the town, and had my 
attention directed to many curious matters. The Reading-room 
is quite a snug little place, delightfully embowered by vines and 
creepers, close to the water. 

Whenever we landed we were surrounded by beggars, and 
many of them were very interesting children. We often think 
of one fine-looking boy, about eight years old, who pressed for- 
ward with two smaller ones, imploring alms on their behalf. 
He told me, in pretty good English, that they had " No father, 
no father, poor forlorn ones." This was his moving exclamation. 
I told him I would give them something next day, at which the 
poor children's faces brightened up, and were radiant. They had 
not yet learned to distrust man's word. 

During our visit at Funchal, we were constantly beset with 
men and women offering articles for sale. Baskets in vast vari- 
ety of form and fashion, straw-hats, lace, mats, mittens, walking- 
sticks, tables, writing-desks, chess-boards of the most exquisite 
construction in mosaic work, were pressed upon us at every step, 
and at prices astonishingly low. I do not believe that such a 
market is often thrown open to the good people of Funchal as 
they found on the arrival of the North Star. We all dined on 
shore, at Mr. Yates' hotel, and found an admirable table, with 
the best of attention. 

Mr. Yates was formerly a sergeant in the British army, and 
resides here on account of his health, which is much improved 
by the climate. On conversing with our host, I was surprised 
to find him possessed of so much intelligence ; and, in reply to 



338 ME. YATES — MADEIRA — CLIMATE. 

my inquiries on many subjects, I at once discovered that he was I 
a man of considerable reading. Mr. Yates invited me into his 
study, and I was conducted into a very charming retreat, where 
I met with a far finer library of the best books than can usually 
be* met with in a clergyman's study in New England. The cast 
of the proprietor's. mind was evidently in favor of theology and 
metaphysics, and not often do I fall in with a better collection 
of the best authors. Mr. Yates is a. hard student, a close 
thinker ; and, although at least fifty, he is diligently employed 
in the acquisition of the Latin language. I was delighted with 
my visit to this charming study, which commands a view of the 
ocean and the unrivalled beauty of the island mountain range. 

Madeira is known to all the world by its production of wine, 
and as a favorite resort for consumptive persons. The climate 
appears to me to be all that can be desired for the invalid. The 
mean temperature at Funchal is reported at 66° of Fahrenheit 
for the whole year. February and March are the extreme of 
winter, and August and September furnish the greatest heat. 
Between March and September the mean difiierence is not greater 
than about twelve degrees. ' A variety of causes operate to pro- 
duce this charming climate. The towering mountains which 
extend to the entire north shelter it from the weather at every 
point of the compass except from the south-east and south-west. 
Then the general absence of forest and wood meliorates the 
climate, and the perfect steadiness of the land and sea breezes 
keeps up a state of exquisite temperature. The rainy season 
takes place in autumn and the early part of spring, and seldom 
lasts more than three weeks. 

Occasionally, at distances of a number of years, this island 
has been visited with deluges or freshets of an alarming charac- 
ter. The water comes down in torrents through the ravines, 
bearing before it vast masses of rock, and the noise is tremen- 
dous. In 1803, no 2ss than five hundred persons perished, and 



CLIMATE OF MADEIRA. 339 

it was supposed that a water-spout had broken upon the moun- 
tains. 

I was very particular in my inquiries as to the dampness of 
this place, and am satisfied that at Funchal there is no undue 
excess of moisture ; fog is unknown, and the dews are very 
moderate. I do not believe that climate can save a man whose 
lungs are nearly consumed by disease ; but I have no doubt, 
where individuals have a tendency to disease, and many sure, 
unerring symptoms of its approach, that if they repaired to Ma- 
deira and lived prudently, perfect health would generally be the 
happy consequence. 

Sir James Clark, writing upon the climate of Madeira, says : 
" It (Madeira) is warmer during the winter and cooler during 
the summer ; there is less difi'erence between the temperature of 
the day and that of the night ; between one season and another ; 
and between successive days. It is almost exempt from keen, 
cold winds, and enjoys a general steadiness of weather to which 
the continental climates are strangers." Acute rheumatic affec- 
tions are very rare in the island, and the dangerous concomitant 
disease of the heart. Persons laboring under chronic rheuma- 
tism almost invariably receive benefit from a visit or residence 
here. In the island are excellent English physicians, — men of 
high professional eminence. 

The general opinion here is that a residence through the sum- 
mer is quite as useful to the patient as in the winter. If the 
population were not so ill-fed and hard-worked, the longevity 
would be much greater than the bills of mortality indicate. 
The physicians say that all diseases brought to the island, as 
small-pox, scarlet fever, &c., appear here in their mildest forms, 
and very soon disappear. On no occasion has Madeira been 
visited by the Asiatic cholera. 

I am quite satisfied, if a person has to leave the northern 
part of the United States or England for a milder climate, that 
the best places I have ever seen for his purposes are Madeira 



340 EMIGRATION — POPULATION. 

and Malaga. At either of these spots he will find a charming 
climate, magnificent scenery, interesting associations, good so- 
ciety, the best of medical advice, and the religious privileges 
which a sick man ought to appreciate. 

I am quite of Leigh Hunt's opinion about the state of those 
who are threatened with consumption. He says : " I suspect 
that people of this tendency, with a proper mode of living, may 
reach to as good a period of existence as any others. The great 
secret in this, as in almost all physical cases of ill, seems to be 
in diet and regimen. If some demi-god could regulate for man- 
kind what they should eat and drink, by what bodily treatment 
circulate their blood, he would put an end to half the trouble 
which the world undergoes." 

The population of the island is not more than one hundred 
and fifteen thousand. A large emigration has taken place to 
Demarara, where laborers were in great demand. This com- 
menced in 1835, and about one thousand two hundred young 
men left Madeira ; others went in 1840. A heavy fee is paid by 
each emigrant. It is supposed that since 1835 nearly thirty 
thousand persons have gone to the West India Islands. 

All who resort to this island speak favorably of the local 
authorities ; the ofl&cers of the custom-house are very polite, and 
the most liberal course is adopted in reference to the admission 
of personal goods. 

The boarding-houses are numerous, and very comfortable. 
Mr. John Yates' family hotel is all that a gentleman would 
desire, and the charges for board vary from forty to fifty dollars 
per month, inclusive of the wine of the island. There are sev- 
eral villas to let, furnished, and on reasonable terms. These 
houses can be had for three, six or twelve months. Good ser- 
vants can be procured at the following rates, as I was informed : 
Good men-cooks, seven to eight dollars; plain do., five to six dol- 
lars ; house-maid, three to four dollars ; boy, two dollars ; groom, 
five dollars,— without food. Good horses are easily procured, but 



MODES OF TRAVEL — SHOPS — BOY-BEGGARS. 341 

good saddles are scarce, and a visitor should bring his own. The 
roads are entirely unfit for carriages, and those who do not ride 
on horseback generally make use of the palanquin, a sort of 
cradle suspended from a pole, and hanging about twelve inches 
from the ground. It has curtains and awning, and a low seat. 
This is carried by two men, and the charge is about twelve and 
a half cents an hour. The ox carriage of which I made men- 
tion will hold four persons, and is like a large sleigh, moving on 
wooden or iron runners. 

I found the shops, both English and Portuguese, well supplied 
with everything that visitors would need ; but their exterior ap- 
pearance is by no means inviting. Reading-rooms, clubs, &c., 
are all open to the stranger. The Commercial Reading-room, 
near the pier, with its charming veranda and beautiful view of 
the sea, would be a favorite lounge of mine, if I were to pass 
any time at Funchal. 

Divine service is performed here every Sabbath, both in the 
English Church and in the Free Church of Scotland. 

It is hardly necessary to say that every part of the island 
abounds in the most picturesque and romantic scenery. I pro- 
cured some excellent engravings of cataracts and ravines in dis- 
tant parts of the island, which are awfully grand and sublime. 
Our limited stay did not allow me to visit them. 

On one of my visits on shore, I again met with " the forlorn 
ones," and their eloquent little advocate. I took him on board 
the yacht, and made up a large bundle of clothes, including a 
bonnet for his mother, and never did I see more perfect joy in a 
human countenance. He went back in the boat, and divided up 
his spoils ; and that day several little hearts were made glad. 

Mr. and Mrs. Vanderbilt and others of the party visited the 

elegant abode of Mr. Gordon, on the mountain, and were 

greatly delighted with his charming residence. This gentleman, 

and our worthy consul, Mr. March, were absent on a visit to 

28 



842 DESTRUCTION OF THE VINEYARDS — WINES. 

England, having left Madeira bj the steamer a few days pre- 
vious to our arrival. * 

We were all very sorry to find the island laboring under a sad 
calamity in the total destruction of the vineyards. Instead of 
producing twenty-five thousand pipes of wine, as used to be done, 
this year the amount will fall below two hundred ! No one can 
form an adequate idea of the blasted appearance of the vines 
who has not seen them. They look as if they had been scorched 
by fire. We could not obtain grapes to eat. The fear is 
entertained that the vines are so injured that several years must 
elapse ere another crop can be realized. The vine was brought 
here in 1425, but the best varieties were introduced by the 
Jesuits in the close of the 16th century. I observed many of 
the vines trained on chestnut-trees ; but the impression is enter- 
tained that the grape is better when grown near to the earth. 
The vintage occurs early in September. The usual rate of pro- 
duction is calculated in good seasons at a pipe of wine to the 
acre. The inferior wines are sent in large amounts to Ham- 
burg and Cologne, where, under the hands of doctors, it is made 
into hock, and sent over Europe and to America. 

Very many of the wines here raised are rarely seen off the 
island. The principal wines of Madeira are as follows : 

Malmsey, a light-colored wine, made from a large oval grape, 
which, when ripe, is of golden hue; its bunches are thin and 
long. The best wine of this grade is made on estates belonging 
formerly to the Jesuits. It is difficult to raise the vine, as a 
little fog or dampness destroys the flower. This is the costliest 
wine of the island, and is worth about four hundred dollars a 
pipe on the spot. 

Bual. — This is a delicate wine, produced from a round, straw- 
colored grape, the size of a small marble. This grape is now 
scarce, and the wine is very high. 

Sercial is a dry, light-colored wine, produced from the round 
hock grape, which hangs in thick clusters. This wine must 



WINES — FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. 343 

obtain considerable age to become acceptable to the palate. The 
grape is never eaten ; its price is high. 

Tinta or Madeira Burgundy. — This is made from the small 
black Burgundy grape. It receives its rich claret color from 
the husks of the grape, which are left in the casks during fer- 
mentation. This wine is best when newly made, and after two 
years loses its aroma. Its value has been from three hundred to 
three hundred and fifty dollars a pipe. 

Tinto is a dark wine from the Negra Molle grape, which is 
larger than the Burgundy. It is used with others in the com- 
position of Madeira wine. 

Madeira. — This is the great wine of the island. It is made 
from a combination of grapes. When new, it is of a light 
claret, violet hue ; but this subsides as it advances to maturity. 
This wine is usually sent on a voyage to the East or West Indies, 
and takes its name accordingly in the markets. It has generally 
commanded on the island from one hundred to two hundred and 
sixty dollars a pipe. 

Besides these, there are Verdelho, Palhete, Surdo and Ne- 
grino wines. 

All the wines of Madeira require an equable temperature. 

The fruits and vegetables of Madeira are fine and abundant. 
Oranges, lemons, citron, coffee, arrow-root, the guava, banana, 
custard-apple, mango, peaches, pomegranates, apricots, figs, and 
most of the fruits of temperate climates. The sweet potato is 
largely produced, and its leaves are given to cattle. The tea- 
plant has been raised by Mr. Yeitch at his quinta, near the mag- 
nificent and sublime Curral, at an elevation of two thousand 
seven hundred feet above the sea. 

I was much gratified by seeing several new descriptions of 
trees. The Til ; — this is the laurus fcetens, and when cut, it 
smells like sulphureted hydrogen. Age and exposure turns it 
of a beautiful black color. The Yinhalico, or island mahogany, 
is highly valued for cabinet work. The dragon-tree is nearly 



344 VEGETABLES — PLANT3 — BIRDS — FISH. 

extinct. The palm is not very common, but here and there 1 
saw some aged ones. "It needs, according to Humboldt, a mean 
temperature of 80° or 81°. The aloe and prickly pear I found 
everywhere in luxuriant vegetation. 

I ought not to omit naming a vegetable which Mr. Yates 
placed on our table, and to which he directed our attention. It 
was the Tchu-tchu (Sechium edule), called also by the people 
pepiiiella. It is a small gourd, very much like vegetable mar- 
row ; one seed covers a wall with its ramifications. 

This is the very home of Flora. I have already named 
camellias of twenty feet in height, and I afterwards saw them 
still higher. The fuchsias grow into perpetual hedges. In 
every garden we were charmed with the fragrance arising from 
old favorites and newly-discovered friends. Magnolias were 
very fine, and in bloom. We noticed the Solandra datura, 
Judas-tree, spike coral, the turpentine-tree, oleanders, euphor- 
bia, the hibiscus, &c. 

It was pleasant to observe the English black-bird here, and to 
listen to its cheerful note. Here, too, is the green canary, — the 
primal ancestor of the yellow variety. It is found here in flocks 
with other birds. The English goldfinch is very common. Par- 
tridges and quails are scarce ; the woodcock is more common. 
Humming-birds were in every garden, and on every trellis. 

In the fish-market I saw the tunny, of large size ; the red and 
gray mullet, and many kinds which were new to me. The turtle 
tdken here is not the green turtle; and one we purchased did not 
seem at all equal to the West India ones at home. 

I was exceedingly pleased with the appearance and deport- 
ment of the common people at Funchal and the vicinity. Men, 
women and children, however poorly clad, were all clean. Some- 
times the clothes were so patched that it was difficult to say what 
had been the original texture of the garment. Owing to the 
warmth of the climate, a shirt and pantaloons, without shoes, is 
all that a boy requires. 



DEPARTURE FROM MADEIRA. 345 

At four o'clock in the afternoon we left this most enchanting 
island, aHi.id the farewells of a vast multitude, who crowded the 
beach and wished us " a pleasant voyage," and told us truthfully 
that they hoped to see us again. I do not think that we touched 
at any place where we were the means of doing the people so 
much real good as at Funchal. We all made large purchases, 
and the poor folks who live by manufacturing baskets, mats, 
feather-work and cabinet-ware, seldom, I fancy, find such a set 
of customers. Mr. Borden and others said that it was a provi- 
dential affair to many of the poor people, and would help to 
make them comfortable through the winter. Most certainly, if 
I had no duty to keep me at home, I know of no place where I 
should so like to pass a winter as at Funchal. I could not leave 
it without a hope that I might see it again, and yet this is vastly 
improbable ; but its mountain range is impressed forever in my 
recollection. 

28=^ 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

LEAVE riNCHAL APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND SKIRT THE SHORE 

ROUGH WEATHER LIVE STOCK A WRECK DISCOVERED FLYING-FISH 

SANDY HOOK SALUTATIONS ON ARRIVAL SUMMARY OF THE VOYAGE 

OUR OBLIGATIONS TO MR. AND MRS. VANDERBILT CAPTAIN EL- 

URIDGE AND HIS OFFICERS THE VOYAGE A SOURCE OF PRIDE TO THE 

COUNTRY. 

September 12, at half-past four p. m., we steamed off from the 
roadstead of Funchal. The sun was shining beautifully through 
dark clouds of singular shape resting upon the island. A 
shower came on, and almost immediately we were delighted with 
a most brilliant double rainbow. One foot of the exterior arch 
rested upon the very edge of the water, and the bow bathed the 
back-ground of ravine and mountain in rich and varied dyes. 
This is the second instance we have observed of double bows 
appearing as we have left port. The other one occurred at our 
departure from Copenhagen. Our course was shaped by Cap- 
tain Eldridge close along shore, so that we might have good 
views of the grand coast scenery of this beautiful island. 

The back-ground of the town, running up to about five thou- 
sand five hundred feet, now showed finely, and presented a map- 
like delineation of its terraced villas and gardens. On the shore 
of Funchal stands a lofty pillar, which was erected in 1796-8, 
by an English merchant, for the purpose of landing goods from 
ships. This, however, has proved a failure. It stood originally 
in the very margin of the sea, and now it is considerably inland, 
indicating the receding of the ocean during the last half-century. 
The Loo Rock, which in the engraving looks merely like a pro- 
jecting fort, is really an island, and has a channel between it 



LEAVE FUNCHAL — APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND. 347 

and the poxt of land. Now we had a good view again of the 
governor's palace, which is seen over the Loo Rock, rising behind 
the gardens of the Praca da Rainha. It is called the Fortaleza, 
and looks very much like an extensive barrack. 

Jkid now from Ponta da Cruz we obtained fresh glimpses of 
the island, as we passed slowly along. The chief point of 
interest was Camera de Lobos, and then a little west of this 
the back-ground was very lofty, and broken in the finest manner. 
The tops of these mountain peaks seemed vanishing in hazy dis- 
tance, and against the dark masses of clijBf and wood I could 
see the wing of the sea-gull flashing in the sunshine. Next, we 
came upon the opening made on the shore by the mountain 
streams, and around these the coast broke into jagged masses 
like clouds, and afforded picturesque and startling scenery, in 
which the precipitous crag and roaring surge awakened sublime 
emotions. 

The little town of Magdalena, on the very edge of the ocean, 
with its neat little church and its forest-crowned hills, richly 
gilded by the western sun, delighted us all as we gazed upon it 
in our too hasty passage. Calheta was the last hamlet we could 
recognize clearly, and now we lay off our course for New York 
by the southern passage, making west-half-north till we made 
latitude 35 N., longitude 52 W. ; then west by north-half-north 
to latitude 37, longitude 64 ; thence west-north-west. 

As soon as we passed beyond the west end of the island, we 
found a head sea and heavy swell. The night was a very un- 
pleasant one, and probably the ladies suffered more than on any 
other occasion during the whole voyage. This weather lasted 
for two days, and the wind kept steady from the north-east. 
The first three days, we made our way running only two boilers, 
but then put on all four. 

The 14th was a charming evening, and we had a good quiet 
night, which brought all hands to the breakfast-table. We had 
several additions about this time made to our live stock from the 



348 LIVE STOCK — A WRECK — FLYING-FISH. 

sheep taken on board at Gibraltar, which gave us four or five 
lambs. Of these every possible care was taken, but in vain ; the 
bad weather was more than they could manage to bear up 
against ; and now a worse misfortune befell us, in having all our 
beef taken on board at Madeira prove unfit for use. Ho-^ver, 
we had other stores to make good this loss ; but it was provoking 
to see so much good provision become worthless. 

The 15th was a fine day, and our four boilers now carried us 
along at a rapid rate. Sunday, 18th, was a rough day; every 
one seemed to feel under the influence of the storm, though very 
few were sick. The motion of the ship was unpleasant, and we 
generally voted it to be a mean kind of time. This was the only 
Sabbath at sea on which divine service was not held, and its non- 
observance to-day was owing to my indisposition from severe head- 
ache. The deepest interest was awakened in all on board by a 
report made whilst we were at dinner that a wreck was in sight. 
Captain Eldridge immediately altered our course, and bore down 
for it. On coming up to the hulk, it appeared to be the wreck of 
a ship which must have long been buffeting the ocean wave ; her 
decks were broken up, but her chains still lay on board. Her 
stanchions really looked like men standing up, and at a dis- 
tance we all supposed that they were two or three men on deck. 

Monday, 19th, was stormy. One of our gentlemen this day 
lost his hat overboard. The water of the ocean was now tested 
by the thermometer, and gave 81° 2'. We were greatly amused 
with immense quantities of flying-fish, several of which were 
caught forwards. For several days we were surrounded by these 
pretty fish, and some of them made quite long flights. Almost 
all our course was through masses of sea-weed, which abounds 
in the Gulf Stream. 

The 20th was a fine day, and our firemen, who were much 
exhausted with the weather, made noble eflforts. Our progress 
this day was three hundred and six miles. I was gregitly amused 
with an animated discussion between two of our party on the 



SANDY HOOK. 349 

character :f the weather which we had experienced on our entire 
voyage. One, who had never been at sea before, reckoned up 
sixteen iays of bad weather ; the other, who had often crossed 
the ocean, thought there had not been one bad day. I confess 
that, though I think we had a few unpleasant days, I did not 
remember one that I should call a regular storm. On our pas- 
sage through the Gulf Stream we had three or four squalls of 
considerable force ; but I have seen far worse weather in the 
same region ; so that I was quite content to allow this passage to 
pass as a pretty fair one. 

Some of the party had at Gibraltar thought of dear friends 
at home, and purchased the best grapes the market would afford, 
and these were carefully packed up iu casks. One was now 
opened, to see how the experiment had succeeded, when the pro- 
prietors were vexed to find that they were packed up in pine 
sawdust, and were thoroughly impregnated with turpentine ! In 
other respects they had kept tolerably well. 

Until Thursday, 22d, we saw very few vessels. For days we 
had seen but two or three, and they were standing east ; but now 
we felt that we were homeward bound, and all around us were 
ships, brigs and schooners, standing in for a port which, like 
ourselves, they longed to make, but not with our speed. Passing 
them all by, we felt our advantage in the possession of that 
mighty power which has revolutionized the state of the world. 

Friday, 23d, at early daylight, we made the light at Sandy 
Hook, and, without waiting for a pilot, we gradually approached 
the shores of our beloved land. Staten Island looked as lovely 
as ever, and she is one of the sweetest spots upon our globe. 
Travel where he may, the voyager fails to find a place where all 
the comforts and elegance of life are more profusely concentrated 
than on this island-suburb of the great metropolis of America. 

Just as we passed the residence of Mr. Vanderbilt's mother, 
a salute was fired, and a boat boarded us from the quarantine, 
reporting good news for all on board. At the wharf lay the 



850 ARKIVAL AT NEW YORK. 

Hunchback steamboat, and as we passed her the cheering of 
welcome home fell on Mr. Vanderbilt's ears from those on board 
who had known him in all his career of life, — from a lad labor- 
ing for daily bread, up to the moment when, as a merchant 
prince, he was returning from a voyage in his own steam yacht 
to almost every great port of Europe, having received the respect 
and admiration of the Old World as the successful architect of 
his own fortunes. We went off from the island side by side 
with the Hunchback, and in going up the bay received the 
hearty salutations of every ship and steamer that we met. We 
steamed up the North river, and were saluted by the Cunard 
boat at Jersey city, the Collins steamer at Canal-street, and then 
rounding, we went past the Battery, where hundreds were gath- 
ered and on the neighboring wharves, and then went up the East 
river, and, at about two o'clock, brought up at the spot whence 
we originally departed, in front of the Allaire works. On the 
dock were kind friends and beloved relatives, and soon they stood 
upon our deck, and I almost felt that the entire four months of 
absence was a dream ! But I soon learned a painful fact, that 
convinced me that all was a reality ; that the sweetest joys 
of life are dashed with bitter waters, and that however bright 
may be the morning, the clouds may and will often gather ere 
the day comes to a close. 

There are many items, which may, perhaps, prove of interest 
to others, which are not alluded to in my record. It has 
occurred to me that some would like to see a summing up of the 
work done by the North Star, and I thcefore add an account of 
the miles steamed on our voyage. 



New York to Southampton 


3140 


Trip round Isle of Wight 


73 


Southampton to Copenhagen 


807 


Copenhagen to Cronstadt 


655 


Cronstadt to Havre 


1461 



MR. AND MRS. VANDERBILT. 



351 



Havre to Gibraltar 








1200 


Gibraltar to Malaga . 








60 


Malaga to Leghorn 








807 


Leghorn to Civita Vecchia 








120 


Civita Vecchia to Naples 
Naples to Malta . 
Malta to Constantinople 
Constantinople to Gibraltar 
Gibraltar to Madeira . 








155 
340 

838 
. 1838 
. 600 


Madeira to New York 








2930 



Total 



15024 



We were actually engaged in sailing fifty-eight days, making 
our average of speed to rate at two hundred and fifty-nine miles 
per diem, or within a fraction. On the entire voyage, our con- 
sumption of coal amounted to two thousand two hundred tons, 
averaging twenty-eight tons daily. It has rarely happened to 
any but those of our own party that it could be said, " We have 
been in the four quarters of the world in twenty-eight days ; " 
yet this was the case with our yacht. 

I cannot close this narrative of days precious to memory with- 
out expressing my gratitude to Mr. Vanderbilt for his uniform 
kindness and delicate attentions to me as an individual during 
the whole excursion ; nor would I forget to mention how, every 
day, every one on board was made to see and feel the excellent 
qualities of' his lady, whose uniform amiable spirit was the regu- 
lator of the circle. I do not believe that it is possible for a 
party of twenty-five persons to spend four months in such close 
and daily intercourse with less of collision or loss of feeling and 
temper than was seen in our whole excursion. I am sure that 
when we landed at New York one of our pleasantest hopes was 
that we might often meet in future life, to revive the memory of 
events which have marksd our lives in 1853. 



352 CAPTAIN ELDRIDGE AND OFFICERS. 

Every one on board the yacht felt the amount of indebtedness 
under which he labored to Captain Eldridge, whose nautical 
skill is only equalled by his cheerful-hearted every-day kindness. 
I do not exaggerate his merits when I say that those who have 
seen him navigate the Mediterranean, where he had never been, 
and enter ports without a pilot, are quite satisfied that an abler 
seaman never trod a quarter-deck. Long may he live, an honor 
to his profession, and the object of regard to his friends ! Mrs. 
Eldridge, I will simply remark, will have through our lives our 
highest respect, to which her admirable good sense and virtues 
entitle her. Our friends Messrs. Cope, Peterson and Germaine, 
will always be remembered by us with respect. 

The gentlemen of the party, under a sense of obligation to 
the officers of the North Star, decided to present a silver tea 
service to Captain Eldridge, and a gold watch to each of the 
previously -named gentlemen, and also to Mr. Larner, the excel- 
lent steward. 

The presentation of the silver service to the captain took 
place at Mr. Vanderbilt's house in December, on a very pleasant 
reunion of the North Star party, when it was handed to him, 
and an address made by N. B. Labau, Esq., on behalf of the 
gentlemen. 

Mr. John Keefe, our purser, was, perhaps, more constantly 
with our party than any one of the other members of the ship's 
company. He was always attentive and obliging, was a most 
observant traveller, picked up a vast amount of new ideas, and 
very often made remarks which I shall remember as long as 1 
live. If his numerous friends who visit him at his establishment 
in Broadway do not get amused by his stories of foreign travel, 
while regaled with his delicacies, I am much mistaken. 

Much of the comfort of the ladies depended upon the good 
temper and willingness of the stewardess ; and I am very sure 
that none of the ladies would forgive me if I did not say that 



/ 

VOYAGE SOURCE OP NATIONAL PRIDE. 353 

Harriet Johnson was always kind and cheerful. Her ready wit 
and pleasant jokes I do not forget. 

The press of the country, with one or two exceptions, spoke 
favorably of the project ; and in several of the papers of the 
day letters were published from various members of the party. 
Mr. W. H, Vanderbilt wrote a very interesting series, which 
appeared in the Staten Islander. 

I do not believe that such a cruise as we made in the steam 
yacht North Star, was ever attempted before ; and I much doubt 
if, under all the same circumstances of splendor and enjoyment, 
it will ever be again undertaken. 

It is, I know, to American citizens generally, a matter of 
proud satisfaction, that a private individual has thus shown the 
mechanical skill and ability of our country to almost every 
nation in Europe ; and it must be a subject of pleasure to Mr. 
Vanderbilt to reflect that his enterprise, so nobly conceived, waa 
satisfactorily carried out and happily consummated. 
29 



IMPORTANT 

literary" AND SCIENTmC WORKS 



PUBLISHED BY 



GOULD AND LINCOLN, 

59 WASHINGTON STREET, BOSTON, 



ANNUAL OF SCIENTIFIC DISCOVERY; or, Year Book of Facts 
ill Science and Art, exhibiting the most important Discoveries and Improvements in 
RIechanics, Useful Arts, Natural Philosophy, Cl)eniistry, Astronomy, Meteorology, 
Zoology, Botany, Mineralogy, Geology, Geography, Antiquities, etc. ; together with a list 
of recent Scientific Publications, a classified list of Patents, Obituaries of eminent Scien- 
tific Men, an Index of important Papers in Scientific Journals, Reports, Sec. Edited by 
David A Wells, A. M. 12mo, cloth, 1,25 

This work, commenced in the year 1850, and issued on the first of March annually, contains all 
important facts discovered or announced during the year. Each volume is distinct in itself, and con- 
tahis entirehj nciv matter, with a fine portrait of some distinguished scientific man. As it is not in- 
tended exclusively for scientific men, but to meet the wants of the general reader, it has been the aim 
of the editor that the articles should be brief, and intelligible to all. The editor has received the appro- 
bation, counsel, and personal contributions of the prominent scientific men throughout the country. 

THE FOOTPRINTS OF THE CREATOR ; or, The Asterolepis of 
Stronmess. With numerous Illustrations. By Hugh .Miller, author of " The Old Red 
Sandstone," &c. From the third London Edition. With a Memoir of the Author, by 
Louis Agassiz. 12mo, cloth, 1,00. 

Dr. BucKLAND, at a meeting of the British Association, said he had never been so much aston- 
ished in his life, by the powers of any man, as he had been by the geological descriptions of Mr. INIiller. 
That wonderful man described these objects with a facility which made him ashamed of the com- 
parative meagrep.ess and poverty of his own descriptions in the " Bridgewater Treatise," which had 
st him hours and days of labor. He ivoitld give his left haiid to possess such poicers of description 
this man : and if it pleased Providence to spare his useful life, he, if atiy one, would certainly ren- 
der science attractive and popular, and do equal service to theology and geology. 

Mr. Miller's style is remarkably pleasing ; his mode of popularizing geological knowledge unsur- 
passed, perhaps unequalled; and the deep reverence for divine revelation pervading all adds inter- 
est and value to the volume. — iV. T. Com. Advertiser. 

The publishers have again covered themselves with honor, by giving to the American public, with 
the author's permission, an elegant reprint of a foreign work of science. We earnestly bespeak for 
this work a wide and free circulation among all who love science much and religion more. — Furi' 
tan Recorder. 

THE OLD RED SANDSTONE ; or, New Walks in an Old Field. By 
Hugh Miller. Illustrated vvith Plates and Geological Sections. 12mo, cloth, 1,00. 

Mr. Miller's exceedingly interesting book on this formation is just the sort of work to render any 
subject popular. It is written in a remarkably pleasing style, and contains a wonderful amount of 
information.— Westminster Review. 

It is, withal, one of the most beautiful specimens of English composition to be found, conveying 
information on a most ditficult and profound science, in a style at once novel, pleasing, and elegant. 
It contains the results of twenty years' close observation and experiment, resulting in an accumulation 
of facts which not only dissipate some dark and knotty old theories with regard to ancient formations, 
but establish the great truths of geology in more perfect and harmonious consistency with the great 
truth* of revelation. — Albany Spectator. A. 



VALUABLE SCIENTIFIC WORKS. 



i 



A TREATISE ON THE COMPARATIVE ANATOMY OF THE 

Animal Kingdom. By Profs. C. Th. Von Siebold and H. Stannius. Translated 
from the German, witli N'l te.*, Additions, &c., By Waldo J. Burnett, SI. D., Boston. 
Two volumes, octavo, cloth. 

This is unquestionably the best and most complete work of its class yet published ; and its nppear- 
nnce in an English dress, with the corrections, improvements, additions, etc., of the American Editor, 
will no doubt be welcomed by the men of science in this country and in Europe, from whence or- 
ders for supplies of the work have been received. 

THE POETRY OF SCIENCE ; or. the Physical Phenomena of Nature. 
By Robert Hunt, Author of" Panthea," " Researches of Light," &,c. 12mo, cloth, 1,25. 

"We are heartily glad to see this interesting work republished in America. It is a book that is a 
book. — Scientific American. 

It is one of the most readable, interesting, and instructive works of the kind that we have ever 
seen. — Phil. Christian Observer. 

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE SPECIES: its Typical Forms > 
and Primeval Distribution. By Charles Hamilton Smith. With an Introduction, 
containing an Abstract of the Views of Bhimenbach, Prichard, Bachman, Agassiz, and 
otlier writers of repute. By Samuel Kneeland, Jr., M. D. With elegant Illustra- 
tions. 12mo, cloth, 1,25. 

The history of the species is thoroughly considered by Colonel Smith, with regard to its origin, 
typicid forms, distribution, filiations, &c. The marks of practical good sense, careful observation, 

and deep research arc displayed in every page. An introductory essay of some seventy or eighty I 

pages forms a valuable addition to the work. It comprises an abstract of the opinions advocated by ' 

the most eminent writers on the subject. The statements are made with strict impartiality, and, [ 

without a comment, left to the judgment of the reader. — Sartaiii's Magazine. \ 

This work exhibits great research, as well as an evident taste and talent, on the part of the author, I 
for the study of the history of man, upon zoological principles. It is a book of learning, and full of | 
interest, and may be regarded as among the comparatively few real contributions to science, that 
serve to redeem, in some measure, the mass of useless stuff under which the press groans. — Chris. | 
Witness. 

This book is characterized by more curious and interesting research than any one that has recently 
come under our examination. — Albany, Journal and Register. 

It contains a learned and thorough treatment of an important subject, always interesting, and of 
late attracting more than usual attention. — ■ Ch. Register. 

The volume before us is one of the best of the publishers' series of publications, replete with rare 
and valuable information, presented in a style at once clear and entertaining, illustrated in the most 
copious manner with plates of all the various forms of the human race, tracing with the most minute 
precision analogies and resemblances, and hence origin. The more it is read, the more widely opens 
this field of research before the mind, again and again to be returned to, with fresh zest and satisfac- 
tion. It is the result of the researches, collections, and labors of a long and valuable lifetime, present- 
ed in the most popular form imaginable. — Albany Spectator. 

LAKE SUPERIOR : its Physical Character, Vegetation, and Animals, 
compared with those of other and similar refrions. By L. Agassiz, and Contributions 
from other eminent Scientific Gentlemen. With a Narrative of the Expedition, and 
Illustrations. By J. E. Cabot. One volume, octavo, elegantly illustrated. Cloth, 3,50. 

The illustrations, seventeen in number, are in the finest style of the art, by Sonrel ; embracing 
lake and landscape scenery, fishes, and other objects of natural history, with an outline map of Lake 
Superior. 

This work is one of the most valuable scientific works that has appeared in this country. Embody- 
ing the researches of our best scientific men relating to a hitherto comparatively unknown region, 
it will be found to contain a great amount of scientiflc information. B 



GUYOT'S WORKS. 



THE EARTH AND MAN. Lectures on Comparative Physical 
Geography, in its relation to the History of Mankind. By Prof. Arnold Guyot. 
Tianslatcd from the French, by Prof C. C. Felton, with numerous Illustrations. 
Eighth tljousand. J2mo, cloth, 1,25. 

From Prof Louis Agassis, of Harvard University. 

It will not ouly render f!l^• study of Gcoernphy more attractive, but actually show it in its true light, 
namely, as the science of the relations wliicli exist between nature and man tlirou^hout history ; of 
the contrasts observed between the different parts of the globe ; of the laws of horizontal and vertical 
forms of tlie dry land, in its contact with the sea; of cUmate, &c. It would be highly sei-viceable, it 
seems to me. for the benefit of schools and teachers, that you should induce Mr. Guyot to write a se- 
ries of gi-aduated text books of geography, from the first elements up to a scientific treatise. It would 
give new life to these studies in this country, and be the best preparation for sound statistical investi- 
gations. 

From George S. TJillard, Esq., of Boston. 

Professor Gnyot's Lectures are marked by learning, ability, and taste. His bold and comprehen- 
sive generalizations rest upon a careful foundation of facts. The essential value of his statements is 
enhanced by his luminous arrangement, and by a vein of philosophical reflection which gives life and 
dignity to dry details. To teachers of youth it will be especially important. They may learn from it 
how to make Geography, which I recall as the least interesting of studies, one of the most attractive; 
and I earnestly commend it to their careful consideration. 

Those who have been accustomed to regard Geography as a merely descriptive branch of leam- 
iug, drier than the remainder biscuit after a voyage, will be delighted to find this hitherto unattractive 
pursuit converted into a science, the principles of which are definite and the results conclusive.— 
North American Review. 

The gi-and idea of the work is happily expressed by the aut lOr, where he calls it the geographical 
march of histoi-y. Faitli, science, learning, poetry, taste, in a word, genius, have liberally contributed 
to the production of the work under review. Sometimes we feel as if we were studying a treatise on 
the exact sciences ; at others, it strikes the ear like an epic poem. Now it reads like history, and now 
it sounds like prophecy. It will find readers in whatever language it may be published. — Christian 
Examiner. 

The work is one of high merit, exhibiting a wide range of knowledge, great research, and a philo- 
sophical spirit of investigation. Its perusal will well repay the most learned in such subjects, and 
give new views to all of man's relation to the globe he inhabits.— Sillimau's Journal. 

COMPARATIVE PHYSICAL AND HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY; 

or, the Study of the Earth and its Inliahitants. A series of graduated courses for the use 
of Schools. By Arnold Guyot, author of " Earth and Man," etc. 

The series hereby announced will consist of three courses, adapted to the capacity of three different 
ages and periods of study. The first is intended for primary schools and for cliildren of from seven 
to ten years. The second is adapted for higher schools, and for young persons of from ten to fifteen 
years. The third is to be used as a scientific manual in Academies and Colleges. 

Each course will be divided into two parts, one on purely Physical Geography, the other for Eth- 
nography, Statistics, Political and Historical Geography. Each part wiU be illustrated by a colored 
Physical and Political Atlas, prepared expressly for this purpose, dehneating, with the greatest care, 
the configuration of the surface, and the other physical phenomena alluded to in the correspondJBg 
work, tiie distribution of the races of men, and the political divisions into states, &c., &c. 

The two parts of the first or preparatory course are now in a forward state of preparation, and wiU 
be issued at an early day. 

GUYOT'S MURAL MAPS ; a Series of elegant Colored Maps, projected 
on a large scale, for the Recitation Room, consisting of a Map of the World, North and 
South America, Europe, Asia, Africa, &c., exhibiting the Physical Phenomena of th© 
Globe, etc. By Prof. Arnold Guyot. Price, mounted, 10,00 each. 

MAP OF THE WORLD,- Now ready. 

MAP OF NORTH AM ERICA, -Now ready. 

MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA, -Nearly ready. 

MAP OF GEOGRAPHICAL ELEMENTS, -Now ready. 
^f:^ Other Maps of the Series are in preparation. C 



VALUABLE SCIENTIFIC WORKS. 



PRINCIPLES OF ZOOLOGY: touching the Structure, Development, 
Distribution, and Natural Arrangement of the Races of Animals, living and extinct. 
With numerous Illustrations. For the Use of Schools and Colleges. Part I., Compara- 
tive Physiology, By Louis Agassiz and Augustus A. Gould. Revised 
Edition. 12mo, cloth, 1,00. 

This work places us in possession of information half a century in advance of all our elementary 
works on this subject. . . No work of the same dimensions has ever appeared in the Englisli lan- 
guage containing so much new and valuable information on the subject of which it treats. ~Pi:of. 
James Hall. 

A work emanating from so high a source hardly requires commendation to give it currency. The 
volume is prepared for the student in zoological science; it is simple and clfmunia).y in its ;t^U', full 
in its illustrations, comprehensive in its range, yet well condensed, and brought into the narrow com- 
pass requisite for the purpose intended.— Silhmun's Journal. 

The work may safely be recommended as the best book of the kind in our language. - Christian 
Examine): 

It is not a mere book, but a work - a real work, in the form of a book. Zoology is an interesting 
science, and is here treated with a masterly hand. The history, anatomical structure, the nature and 
habits of numberless animals, are described in clear and plain language, and illustrated with innumer- 
able engravings. It is a work adapted to colleges and schools, and no young man should be without 
it. — Scientijic American, 

PRINCIPLES OF ZOOLOGY, PART IL Systematic Zoology, in 
\viii( Ji ihe Principles of Classification arc applied, and the principal Groups of Animals 
arc briefly characterized. With numerous Illustrations. l2ino,i7i preparation. 

THE ELEMENTS OF GEOLOGY; adaptecl to Schools and Colleges, 
Willi numerous lilu.'^trations. By J R. LoOMls, late Professor of Chemistry and Geology 
in Watcrvillc College. I2ino, cloth, 1,00, 

After a thorough examination of the work, wc feel convinced that in all the requirements of a text 
book of natural science, it is surpassed by no work before the American public. In this opinion we 
believe the great body of experienced teachers will concur. The work will be found equally well 
adapted to the wants of those who have given little or no attention to the science in early life, and are 
desirous to become acquainted with its terms and principles, with the least consumption of time and 
labor. We hope that every teacher among our readers will examine the work and put the justness 
ol' our remarks to the test of his judgment and experience. - JM. B. Anderson, Pres. qf Rochester 
Utnvcrsilij. 

This is just such a work as is needed for our schools. It contains a systematic statement of the 
principles of Geology, without entering into the minuteness of detail, which, though interesting to the 
mature student, confuses the learner. It very wisely, also, avoids those controverted points which 
mingle geology with questions of biblical criticism. We see no reason -why it should not take its 
place as a text book in all the schools in the land. - N. Y. Observer. 

This volume merits the attention of teachers, who. if we mistake not, will find it better adapted to 
their purpose than any other similar work of which we have knowledge. It embodies a statement 
of the principles of Geology sufHciently full for the ordinary purposes of instruction, with the leading 
facts from which they are deduced. It embraces the latest results of the science, and indicates the 
debatable points of theoretical geology. The plan of the work is simple and clear, and the style in 
which it is written is both compact and lucid. "We have special pleasure in welcoming its appearance. 
— Watchman and Reflector. 

This volume seems to be just the book now required on geology. It will acquire rapidly a circula- 
tion, and will do much to popularize and universally diflfuse a knowledge of geological ta-nths. - AU 
hnny Journal. 

It givos a clear and scientific, yet simple, analysis of the main features of the science. It seems, in 
language and illustration, admirably adapted for use as a text book in common schools and academies ; 
while it is vastly better than any thing which was used in college in our time. In all these capacities 
we particularly and cordially recommend it. — Congregationalist, Boston. D 



CHAMBEES'S WOEKS. 



CHAMBERS'S CYCLOPEDIA OF ENGLISH LITERATURE. A 

Selection of tlie choicest productions of English Authors, from the earliest to the present 
time. Connected by a Critical and Biograpliical History. Forming two large imperial 
octavo volumes of 1400 pages, double column letter-press ; with upwards of 300 elegant 
Illustrations. Edited by Robert Chambers, embossed cloth, 5,00. 

This work embraces about one thousand authors, chronologically an-anged and classed as Poets, 
Historians, Dramatists, Philosophers, Metaphysicians, Divines, etc., with choice selections from their 
writings, connected by a Biographical, Historical, and Critical Narrative ; thus presenting a complete 
view of English literature from tlie earliest to the present time. Let the reader open where he will, 
he cannot fail to find matter for profit and delight. The selections are gems — infinite riches in a 
little room; in the language of another, "A whole English Libkaky fused down into one 
CHEAP book " » 

From W. n. Pkescott. Author of "Ferdinand and Isabella." The plan of the work is 
very judicious. It will put the reader in a proper point of view for surveying the whole ground 

over which he is travelling. . . . Such readers cannot fail to profit largely by the labors of the critic 
who has the talent and taste to separate what is really beautiful and worthy of their study from what 
is superfluous. 

I concur in the foregoing opinion of Mr, Prescott. — Edward Everett. 

A popular work, indispensable to the library of a student of Englisli literature. -De. Wayland. 

We hail with peculiar pleasure the appearance of this work. — Xorth American Review. 

It has been fitly described as ' a whole English library fused down into one cheap book." The Bos- 
ton edition combines neatness with cheapness, engraved portraits being given, over and above the il- 
lustrations of the English copy. — N. Y. Commercial Advertiser. 

Welcome more than welcome ' It was our good fortune some months ago to obtain a glance at this 
worki and we have ever since looked with earnestness for its appearance in an American edition. — 
iV. Y. Recorder. 

8©- The American edition of this valuable work is enriched by the addition of fine steel and mezzo- 
tint engravings of the heads of Suakspeare, Addison, Byron ; a full length portrait of Dr. John- 
son, and a beautiful scenic representation of Oliver Goldsmith and Dr. Johnson. These im- 
portant and elegant additions, together with superior paper and binding, render the American far su- 
perior to the English edition. The circulation of this most valuable and popular work has been truly 
enormous, and its sale in tliis country still continues unabated. 

CHAMBERS'S MISCELLANY OE USEFUL AND ENTERTAIN- 
ING KNOWLEDGE. Edited by William Chambers. With Elegant Illustrative 
Engravings. Ten volumes, 16mo, cloth, 7,00. 

Tlite work has been highly recommended by distinguished individuals, as admu-ably adapttd to 
Family, Sabbath, and District School Libraries. 

It would be difficult to find any miscellany superior or even equal to it : it richly deserves th» epi- 
thets " useful and entertaining," and I would recommend it very strongly as extremely well adapted 
to form parts of a library for the young, or of a social or circulating library in town or country. — 
George B. Emerson, Esq., Chairman Boston School Book Committee. 

I am gratified to have an opportunity to be instrumental in circulating " Chambers's Miscellany" 
among the schools for wWch I am superintendent. — J. J. Clute, Town. Sup. of Castleton, N. Y. 

I am fully satisfied that it is one of the best series in our common school libraries now in circula- 
tion. - S. T. Hance, Town Sup. of Macedon, Wayne Co., JSf. Y. 

The trustees have examined the " Miscellany," and are well pleased with it. I have engaged the 
books to every district that has library money. — Miles Chaffee, Town Sup. of Concord. N. Y. 

I am not acquainted with any similar collection in the English language that can compare with it 
for purposes of instruction or amusement. I should rejoice to see that set of books in every house in 
our country. — Ke V. John O. Chocles. D. D. 

The information contained in this work is surprisingly great ; and for the fireside, and the young, 
particularly, it cannot fail to prove a most valuable and entertaining companion. — A^. Y. Evaiigelist. 

It is an admirable compilation, distinguished by the good taste which has been shown in all the pub- 
licalions of the Messrs. Chambers. It unites the useful and entertaining. — A". Y. Com. Adv. 



CHAMBEES'S WORKS. 



CHAMBERS'S HOME BOOK AND POCKET MISCELLANY, Con- 
taining a Choice Selection of Interesting and Instructive Reading for the Old and the 
Young. Six vols. 16mo, cloth, 3,00. 

This work is considered fully equal, if not superior, to either of the Chambers's other works in in- 
terest, and. like them, contains a vast fund of valuable information. Following somewhat the plan 
of tlie " jNIiscellany, ' it is admirably adapted to the school or the family library, furnishing ample va- 
riety for every class of readers, both old and young. 

"We do not know how it is possible to publish so much good reading matter at such a low price. 
We speak a good word for the literary excellence of the stories in this work ; we hope our people will 
introduce it into all their families, in order to drive away the miserable flashy-trashy stulf so often 
found in the hands of our young people of both sexes. — Scientific American. 

Both an entertaining and instruotive work, as it is certainly a very cheap one. -- Puritan Recorder. 

It cannot but have an extensive circulation. — Albany Express. 

Excellent stories from one of the best sources in the world. Of all the series of cheap books, this 
promises to be the best. —Bangor Mercury. 

If any person wishes to read for amusement or profit, to kill time or improve it, get " Chambers'a 
Home Book."— Clncago Times, 

The Chambers are confessedly the best caterers for popular and useful reading in the world. — 
Willis's Home Journal. 

A very entertaining, instructive, and popular work. — JV. Y. Commercial. 

The articles are of that attractive sort which suits us in moods of indolence, when we would linger 
lialf way between wakefulness and sleep. They require just thought and activity enough to keep our 
feet from tlie land of Nod, without forcing us to run, walk, or even stand. — £'c/ecnc, Portland. 

The reading contained in these books is of a miscellaneous character, calculated to have the very 
best effect upon the minds of young readers. While the contents are very far from being puerile, they 
are not too heavy, but most admirably calculated for the object intended. —Evening Gazette. 

Coming from the source they do, we need not say that the articles are of the highest literary excel- 
lence. We predict for the work a large sale and a host of admirers. — East Boston Ledger. 

It is just the thing to amuse a leisure hour, and at the same time combines instruction with amuse- 
ment. — Dover Inquirer. 

Messrs. Chambers, of Edinburgh, have become famous wherever the English language is eipoken 
and read, for their interesting and instructive publications. Wc have never yet met with any thing 
which bore the sanction of their names, whose moral tendency was in the least degree questionable. 
I'hcy combine instruction with amunenient, and throughout they breathe a spirit of the purest moral- 
ity. — Chicago Tribune. 

CHAMBERS'S REPOSITORY OF INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING 
PAPERS. With Illustrations. An entirely New Series, and containing Original Arti- 
cles. 16mo, cloth, per vol. 50 cents. 

Tlie Messrs. Chambers have recently commenced the publication of this work, under the title of 
"CiiAMBEKs's Rei'OSitokv OF Instkuctive AND AMUSING Tkacts," in the form of penny 
weekly sheets, similar in style, literary character, &c., to the " Miscellany," which has maintained an 
enormous circulation of more than eighty thousand copies in England, and has already reached nearly 
the same sale in this country. 

Arrangements have been made by the American publishers, by which they will issue the work 
eimultaneously with the English edition, in two monthly, handsomely bound, 16mo. volumes, of 260 
pages each, to continue until the whole series is completed. Each volume complete in itself, and will 
be sold in sets or single volumes. 

csr Commendatory Letters, Reviews, Notices, &c., of each of Chambers's works, sufficient to make 
a good sized duodecimo volume, have been received by the publishers, but room here will only allow 
giving a specimen of the vast multitude at hand. They are all popular, and contain valuable instruc- 
tive aud entertaining reading — such as should be found in every family, school, and college library. 

P 



VALUABLE WORK. 



CYCLOPEDIA OF ANECDOTES OF LITERATURE AND THE 

f FINE AR'l'S. Containing a copious and choice selection of Anecdotes of tiie various 
forms of Literature, of the Arts, of Architecture, Engravings, JMusic, Poetrj', Painting, 
and Sculpture, and of the most celebrated Literary Characters and Artists of ditTerent 
Countries and Ages,&;c. By Kazlitt Arvine, A. M., Author of " Cyclopaidia of Moral 
and Religious Anecdotes." With numerous illustrations. 725 pages octavo, cloth, 3,00. 

This is unquestionably the choicest collection of anecdotes ever published. It contains three tlioii' 
sitirl and fort// Aiiecdutex, many of them articles of interest, containing reading matter equal to lialf a 
dozen pages of a common 12mo. volume ; and such is the wonderful variety, that it will be found aa 
ahnost inexhaustible fund of interest for every class of readers. The elaborate classification and in- 
dexes must commend it, especially to public speakers, to the various classes of literary and scientific 
men, to artists, mechanics, and others, as a Dictionary, /o/- reference, in relation to facts on the nura- 
• berless subjects and characters introduced. There are also more than one hundred and fifty fine 
lllitstrations. 

We know of no work which in the same space comprises so much valuable information in a form 
BO entertaining, and so well adapted to make an indelible impression upon the mind. It must become 
a standard work, and be ranked among the few books which are indispensable, to every complete 
library.— JV^ Y. Chronicle. 

Here is a perfect repository of the most choice and approved specimens of this species of informa- 
tion, selected with the greatest care from all sources, ancient and modern. The work is replete with 
such entertainment as is adapted to all grades of readers, the most or least intellectuaL — J/eJAocZwt 
Quarterly Magazine. 

One of the most complete things of the kind ever given to the public. There is scarcely a paragraph 
in the whole book which will not interest some one deeply ; for, while men of letters, argument, and 
art cannot afford to do without its immense fund of sound maxims, pungent wit, apt illustrations, and 
brilliant examples, the merchant, mechanic and laborer will find it one of the choicest companions of 
tlie hours of relaxation. " Whatever be the mood of one's mind, and however limited the time for 
reading, in the almost endless variety and great brevity of tlie articles he can find something to suit 
his feelings, winch he can begin and end at once. It may also be made the very life of the social circle, 
containing pleasant reading for all ages, at all times and seasons. — Buffalo Commercial Advertiser. 

A well spring of entertainment, to be drawn from at any moment, comprising the choicest anecdotes 
of distinguished men, from the remotest period to tlie present iivae. — Bangor Whig. 
A magnificent collection of anecdotes touching literature and the fine arts. — Albany Spectator. 

This work, which is the most extensive and comprehensive collection of anecdotes ever published, 
cannot fail to become highly popular. — Salem Gazette. 

A publication of which there is little danger of speaking in too flattering terms ; a perfect Thesaurus 
of rare and curious information, carefully selected and methodically arranged. A jewel of a book to 
lie on one's table, to snatch up in those brief moments of leisure that could not be very profitably 
turned to account by recourse to any connected work in any department of literature. — Troy Budget. 

No family ought to be without it, for it is at once cheap, valuable, and very interesting ; containing 
matter compiled from all kinds of books, from all quarters of the globe, from all ages of the world, and 
in relation to every corporeal matter at all worthy of being remarked or remembered. No work has 
been issued from the press for a number of years for which there was such a manifest want, and we 
are certain it only needs to be known to meet with an immense sale. — New Jersey Union. 

A well-pointed anecdote is often useful to illustrate an argument, and a memory well stored with per- 
sonal incidents enables the possessor to entertain hvely and agreeable conversation. — JS. Y. Com. 

A rich treasury of thought, and wit, and learning, illustrating the characteristics and peculiarities of 
many of tlie most distinguished names in the history of literature and the aits. — Phil. Chris. Obs. 

The range of topics is veiy wide, relating to nature, religion, science, and art; furnishing apposite 
illustrations for the preacher, the orator, the Sabbath school teacher, and the instructors of our com- 
mon schools, academies, and colleges. It must prove a valuable work for the fireside, as well as for 
the library, as it is calculated to please and edify all classes. — Zanesville Ch. Register. 

This is one of the most entertaining works for desultory reading we have seen, and will no doubt 
have a very extensive circulation. As a most entertaining table book, we hardly know of any thing 
at ouce BO instructive and amusing. — N. Y. Ch. Intelligencer. G 



I M P O H T A N T WORK. 



KITTO'S POPULAR CYCLOPiEDIA OF BIBLICAL LITERA- 
TURE. Condensed Ironi the larger work. Ey tlie Author, John Kitto, D. D., Author 
of" Pictorial Bible," " History of Palestine," " Scripture Daily Readings," &:c. Assisted 
by James Taylor, D. D., of Glasgow. With over Jice kundrcd Illustrations. One vol- 
ume octavo, 812 pp., cloth, 3,0a. 

The Popular Biblical Cvclop.^dia of Literature is desired to furnish a Dictioxakt i 
OF THE Bible, embodying the products of the best and most recent rcscarclics in biblical literature, 
in wliich the scholars of Europe and America have been engaged. The work, the result of immense 
labor and research, and enriched by the contributions of writers of distinguished eminence in the va- 
rious departments of sacred literature, has been, by universal consent, pronounced the best work of 
its class extant, and the one best suited to the advanced knowledge of the present day in all the studies 
connected with theological science. It is not only intended for ministers and theological stiidctits, 
but is also particularly adapted to jiarcntf, ikibbatli school teachers, and the gnat body of the religioit$ 
public. The dlustratioiis, amounting to more than three hundred, are of the very highest order. 

A condc7ised view of the various branches of Biblical Science comprehended in the ivork: 

1. Biblical Criticism,— Embracing the History of the Bible Languages ; Canon of Scripture j j 
Literary History and Peculiarities of the Sacred Books ; Formation and History of Scripture Texts. 

2. Hi SToiiv, — Proper Names of I'ersons ; Biographical Sketclics of prominent Characters; Detailed I 
Accounts of important Events recorded in Scripture ; Chronology and Genealogy of Scripture. 1 

3. Geoorapiiy, — Names of Places; Description of Scenery ; Boundaries and JIutual Relations of j 
the Countries mentioned in Scripture, so far as necessary to illustrate the Sacred Text > I 

4. Ancii.i;oLOo Y, — Manners and Customs of the Jews and other nations mentioned in Scripturei ■] 
their Sacred Institutions, Military Affairs, Political Arrangements, Literary and Scientific Pursuits^ j 

5. Physical Sciexce,— Scripture Cosmogony and Astronomy, Zoology, Mineralogy, Botany, 
Meteorology. 

In addition to numerous flattering notices and reviews, personal letters from more thanfftijof tht 
most distinguished Miniftcr.^ and La;imcn o/diJRrrut religious denominations in the coitntifi have been 
received, highly commending this work as admirably adapted to ministers, Sabbath school teachers, 
heads of families, and all Bible students. 

The following extract of a letter is a fair specimen of individual letters received from each of the 
gentlemen whose names arc given below : — 

" I have examined it with special and unalloyed satisfaction. It has the rare merit of being all that 
it professes to be, and very few, I am sure, who may consult itwill deny that, in richness and fulness 
of detail, it surpasses their expectation. Many ministers will find it a valuable auxiliary; but its 
chief excellence is, that it furnishes just the facilities which are needed by the thousands in families 
and Subbath schools, who are engaged in the important business of biblical education. It is in itself a 
library of reliable information." 

ys\ B. Spraeue, D. D., Pnstor of Second Presbyterian Church, Albany, N. Y. 

J. J. Carruthcrs, D. D., Pastor of Second Parish Congregational Church, Portland, Me. 

•Joel Uawcs, D. D., P.nstor of First Congregational Church, Hartford, Ct. 

Daniel Sharp, D. D..late Pastor of Third Baptist Church, Boston. 

N. L. Frothingham. D. l).,late Pastor of First Congregational Church, (Unitarian,) Boston. 

Ephraim Peabody, D. 1)., Pastor of Stone Chapi 1 Congregational Church, (Unitarian,) Boston. 

A. L. Stone, Pastor of Park Street Congregational Churcli, Boston. 

John S. Stone, D. D., Rector of Christ Church, (Episcopal,) Brooklyn, N. Y. 

J. B. Waterbury, D. D., Pastor of Bowdoin ^treet Church, (Congregational,) Boston. 

Baron Stow, D. D., Pastor of Rowc Street Baptist Church, Boston. 

Thomas II. Skinner, D. D., Pastor of Carmine Presbyterian Church, New York. 

Samuel W. Worcester, D. D., Pastor of the Tabernacle Church, (Congregational,) Salem. 

Horace Bushnell, D. D.. Pastor of Third Concrogational Church, Hartford, Ct. 

Right Reverend J. M. Wainwright. D. D., Trinity Church. (Episcopal.) New York. 

Gardner Spring. D. D.. Pastor of the Brick Church Chnpel Presbyterian Church, New York. 

W. T. Dwight, D. D., Pastor of Third Congregational Church. I'ortland, Me. 

E. N. Kirk, Pastor of Mount Vernon Con£rre?ational Church. Boston. 

Prof. George Bush, author of " Notes on the Scriptures," New York. 

Howard Malcom. D. D., author of " Bible Dictionary," and Pres. of Lcwisburg University. 

Henry J. Ripley, D. D., author of " Notes on the Scriptures," and Prof, in Newton Theol. Ins. 

N. Porter, Prof, in Yale College, New Haven, Ct. 

Jared Sparks, Edward Everett, Theodore Frelinghuysen, Robert C. Winthrop, John McLean, 

Simon Greenleaf, Thomas S. WiUiajas, - and a large number of others of like character and 

•tauding of the above, whose names cannot ^ert'Hypem ' i \ ^ ^ 



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